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I downloaded the app, but never used it. Once I saw you had to reload all your recipe info in, I said forget it.

Beersmith with the tweaks has come out spot on for my batches so far. I just use the Beersmith app on my Nexus. It's all good.

That's the same thing I do now also. Took a little trial and error but Beersmith is spot on now.


With their announcement of the new controller in the works they say there will be a new app to go along with it. Maybe 2nd times a charm
 
I downloaded the app, but never used it. Once I saw you had to reload all your recipe info in, I said forget it.



Beersmith with the tweaks has come out spot on for my batches so far. I just use the Beersmith app on my Nexus. It's all good.


The app is crap...lost my recipes every phucking time I entered data in.
 
The app is crap...lost my recipes every phucking time I entered data in.

That is why I like my Mad Scientist method of brewing :D...no "apps" to phuck it up LOL.Go crazy with the grains and have no care about efficiency as I am not a commercial brewery.....same thing for the hops as I am not worried about cost controls.I want to make beer that tastes DAMN good and I do.I buy my base malts by the sack and my hops by the pound....no big deal if I go over on a couple pounds of grain nor if I use an ounce of hops too much.

RMCB
 
How are you guys cleaning yours? The last two times I got mine out to brew I guess I didn't dry the chiller off good enough and ended up with some moldy spots on it. After brewing, I just rinse out with water and clean out everything and run hot water through the chiller.

Also, mashing in my 2.5 gallon batch now (no micro pipework if you're just tuning in) All is well so far, but I am not using the top plate for the mash.


Use Starsan. I give mine a rinse after I am done cleaning. Run the sanitizer through the chiller, cycle a couple times, then flush. No problems with mold!
 
Use Starsan. I give mine a rinse after I am done cleaning. Run the sanitizer through the chiller, cycle a couple times, then flush. No problems with mold!


Thats actuallynot a bad Idea - Sanitise the lines and then sanitise again when you re-circulate
 
I picked up a Grainfather to simplify my brewday a few weeks ago and have brewed 4 batches on it so far. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it, but have a few gripes that I was hoping those who have had it longer (or have had read through this whole thread) might address:

1. Temperature drops 2-3 degrees from setpoint during mash before the element kicks on and brings it back. I'd say over an hour long mash, the average temperature is 2 degrees below setpoint.

2. How do you guys FWH? The one time I tried, I had to have my wife throw them in while I picked up the dripping malt tube enough for her to slip them in. I, of course, didn't have it perfectly centered in the air over the kettle and got wort all over the side and floor.

3. It's kind of tedious getting the crushed grains in there when doughing in. The tube is so thin that it's easy to get crushed grains on the rim and between the outer kettle and the malt pipe, which ends up in the wort.

4. I'm still playing with my crush settings but I get a lot of bits in the boil kettle. I've conditioned my malt every time so far, but am considering not doing this next time as I find unconditioned malt makes a better filter bed, if a slower sparge. What crush settings do you guys use?

5. How does the new pump filter work at keeping pellet hops out of the pump and from clogging it up? I generally use whole hops so this hasn't been tested yet, but I 'm afraid to chuck pellets in there and I loathe op bags.
 
I picked up a Grainfather to simplify my brewday a few weeks ago and have brewed 4 batches on it so far. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it, but have a few gripes that I was hoping those who have had it longer (or have had read through this whole thread) might address:



5. How does the new pump filter work at keeping pellet hops out of the pump and from clogging it up? I generally use whole hops so this hasn't been tested yet, but I 'm afraid to chuck pellets in there and I loathe op bags.

As far as this one, I've used up to 8 ounces of pellet hops for a 6 gallon batch and it never clogged. Just don't mess with the filter when it starts to slow down, because it will slow down, but liquid can still get through the clump of hop mush that settles in front of the filter.
 
If the new controller has WiFi or Bluetooth and can be managed with the new app then I'm in.

The existing ap can store the recipes, I haven't had a problem storing them.

I got the new Grainfather connect this week and to answer your question Dave it is BT and connects a charm, easiest pairing I've seen on my iPhone.

The ap not only stores profiles/recipes you enter, you can export BeerXML files from any program with the export/save as Beerxml as I have done with Beersmith. Very easy to have any of my Beersmith recipes in it.

I brewed my first brew with it last night, a 3 step mash IPA and wow, brewing doesn't get much easier.

I have built my own controllers, STC 1000+ and last Xmas a Mathos/Ardbir so I know what I wanted better control, the new controller does all this and more with BT and iPhone/iPad integration.

I put a review of my first impressions on the Grainfather's own forum (http://www.grainfather.co.nz/#!forum/c11jy), but can post it here if anyone is interested.
 
I picked up a Grainfather to simplify my brewday a few weeks ago and have brewed 4 batches on it so far. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it, but have a few gripes that I was hoping those who have had it longer (or have had read through this whole thread) might address:

3. It's kind of tedious getting the crushed grains in there when doughing in. The tube is so thin that it's easy to get crushed grains on the rim and between the outer kettle and the malt pipe, which ends up in the wort.

4. I'm still playing with my crush settings but I get a lot of bits in the boil kettle. I've conditioned my malt every time so far, but am considering not doing this next time as I find unconditioned malt makes a better filter bed, if a slower sparge. What crush settings do you guys use?

5. How does the new pump filter work at keeping pellet hops out of the pump and from clogging it up? I generally use whole hops so this hasn't been tested yet, but I'm afraid to chuck pellets in there and I loathe op bags.



3, I found this with big grain bills ground too fine, too much flour, I have my own mill now and find the same size bill pours into the water more so, by the time it's getting full, don't stir so vigorously.
Interestingly I did a Grainkids kit (Grainfathers own kit 6.5 kg grain) for the first time yesterday. It was ground a bit coarser than I would. It didn't even flow over the recirc pipe for about 20-30 mins and was still cloudy during this time. But it cleared up beautifully and overflowed the recirc pipe later. Exceeded my targets.
I'm going to crush my next batch a bit coarser next time.
I believe the recirculating mash means you don't need it crushed too small.

4, Try for little amount of flour, my rollers are 1.2 mm (run it fast) apart but I will to try a bit coarser now after the Grainkit experience. I would suggest it's worth doing one of their kits to experience "their ideal" package and grind. Maybe they could do a discounted kit(coupon) for new system purchasers.

5, I've had no problems here, I put my own valve on the recirc pipe before the later models had it. Mine has no spring and ball. My mate got a later unit and first time it clogged removed the spring and ball which is where the hops clogged, no problem since.

As far as the filter goes, let the hops build up over it when doing your 5 min sterilize and then try not to disturb it, I have never had a hop blockage yet and only used pellet hops, 140grms in last nights batch. I don't use a sock or spider, straight in the boil or flame out whirlpool.
 
As far as the filter goes, let the hops build up over it when doing your 5 min sterilize and then try not to disturb it, I have never had a hop blockage yet and only used pellet hops, 140grms in last nights batch. I don't use a sock or spider, straight in the boil or flame out whirlpool.

Another thing I've found and read some similar experiences is turn the pump on, but keep the valve shut, then slowly open the valve up. Don't slam it open as that might cause it to try and suck too much trub into the filter. I slowly opened mine during the 5 minute recirc and didn't have any issues. I transferred through the CFC into the fermenter in about 15 minutes without any hop blockage. :mug:
 
Another thing I've found and read some similar experiences is turn the pump on, but keep the valve shut, then slowly open the valve up. Don't slam it open as that might cause it to try and suck too much trub into the filter. I slowly opened mine during the 5 minute recirc and didn't have any issues. I transferred through the CFC into the fermenter in about 15 minutes without any hop blockage. :mug:

That's a great tip, thanks! :mug:
 
I picked up a Grainfather to simplify my brewday a few weeks ago and have brewed 4 batches on it so far. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it, but have a few gripes that I was hoping those who have had it longer (or have had read through this whole thread) might address:

1. Temperature drops 2-3 degrees from setpoint during mash before the element kicks on and brings it back. I'd say over an hour long mash, the average temperature is 2 degrees below setpoint.

2. How do you guys FWH? The one time I tried, I had to have my wife throw them in while I picked up the dripping malt tube enough for her to slip them in. I, of course, didn't have it perfectly centered in the air over the kettle and got wort all over the side and floor.

3. It's kind of tedious getting the crushed grains in there when doughing in. The tube is so thin that it's easy to get crushed grains on the rim and between the outer kettle and the malt pipe, which ends up in the wort.

4. I'm still playing with my crush settings but I get a lot of bits in the boil kettle. I've conditioned my malt every time so far, but am considering not doing this next time as I find unconditioned malt makes a better filter bed, if a slower sparge. What crush settings do you guys use?

5. How does the new pump filter work at keeping pellet hops out of the pump and from clogging it up? I generally use whole hops so this hasn't been tested yet, but I 'm afraid to chuck pellets in there and I loathe op bags.

1. Use a higher strike temp like you did with a MLT- measure your grain bed with a good (quick read) thermometer. GF temps at this stage are way off due to it's measuring point. It will settle in. STC has a preset 2F variance factor built in, I set 1F higher than mash temp.

2. The way you described, yes a bit of a pita. Work on your centering moves! :)

3. Hmm, I hope you're putting grains in basket! I've had no issues, you can put a dish towel to cover the small gap between the boiler and grain basket when doughing in.

4. CC method, so rollers grab the numbers when I pass it through. Same as pre GF days. I don't recall the figure. You can also toss in some rice hulls if you need. I haven't.

5. I bought a hop basket but wouldn't again. I've no idea how utilization is impacted so I stir it up a lot and let water slosh out into boiler. No issues with filter and comment above with valve is indeed the right approach.

Enjoy the GF and brew on. Cheers!
 
@KingBrianI you can also go in and change the hysterisis(or however it is spelled) on the Grainfather for the temperature variance..There is a youtube video that shows how it is done earlier in this thread and written instructions are on the Grainfather website..basically you can change what is factory default of 3 to 1, so that the temp will not vary more then a single degree from your set temp with out it either firing the element or shutting the element down..I changed mine prior to my first brew and my mash temp stayed steady at the set point for the entire 60 minute mash..
 
Am I the only one that has the hardest time getting the silicone gasket to stay on while I insert the bottom plate. That takes me at least 15 minutes. Ughhhh!!!
 
I picked up a Grainfather to simplify my brewday a few weeks ago and have brewed 4 batches on it so far. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it, but have a few gripes that I was hoping those who have had it longer (or have had read through this whole thread) might address:

1. Temperature drops 2-3 degrees from setpoint during mash before the element kicks on and brings it back. I'd say over an hour long mash, the average temperature is 2 degrees below setpoint.

2. How do you guys FWH? The one time I tried, I had to have my wife throw them in while I picked up the dripping malt tube enough for her to slip them in. I, of course, didn't have it perfectly centered in the air over the kettle and got wort all over the side and floor.

3. It's kind of tedious getting the crushed grains in there when doughing in. The tube is so thin that it's easy to get crushed grains on the rim and between the outer kettle and the malt pipe, which ends up in the wort.

4. I'm still playing with my crush settings but I get a lot of bits in the boil kettle. I've conditioned my malt every time so far, but am considering not doing this next time as I find unconditioned malt makes a better filter bed, if a slower sparge. What crush settings do you guys use?

5. How does the new pump filter work at keeping pellet hops out of the pump and from clogging it up? I generally use whole hops so this hasn't been tested yet, but I 'm afraid to chuck pellets in there and I loathe op bags.

  1. Same for me, I was hoping for better accuracy, I'll probably mod mine with an Arduino at some point as it's hard to beat the cost.
  2. Haven't tried sorry, thinking about it could you just tilt the grain container lifting up only one side and keeping 2 feet on the mounts? Should help with spilling
  3. I haven't had this problem, I pour from a 2.5g bucket
  4. According to my markings I'm somewhere around 0.0375" on my Cereal Killer I don't have any feeler gauges, but credit card test won't drop through but pulls through on the numbers only like previous poster mentioned. I got around 85% mash efficiency last batch and I had a bunch of flaked wheat that normally I take a hit on.
  5. I bought a hop spider on eBay for cheap, but I haven't used it yet. The current filter works decently (I grind all my whole hops in a blender), though I find I don't even really need the built-in filter. With 1-3 oz of hops, just whirlpooling and waiting about 5m to start pumping keeps all the hops and trub in the center in a nice cone. Only if I really want to suck the bottom dry and tilt the GF will the filter be used much...in that case it does get a bit of sediment. I prefer now to just plan on the loss within the GF and keep the wort perfectly clean.
 
Am I the only one that has the hardest time getting the silicone gasket to stay on while I insert the bottom plate. That takes me at least 15 minutes. Ughhhh!!!

Yeah, I had that same problem! Fought with it for dern near 30 minutes before I got it to set in the groove and silicon gasket to stay in place. Whole time I was cussing worse then anything you can possibly imagine..Then found out I was putting the 'top' in there for the bottom..Thought those were 'legs' to keep the basket off the filter...When I put the correct plate for the bottom it went in place fairly easily..Maybe there is a 'c'-hair difference in diameter between the two??
 
Am I the only one that has the hardest time getting the silicone gasket to stay on while I insert the bottom plate. That takes me at least 15 minutes. Ughhhh!!!
My brother just picked up a GF and while showing him I found an easy way. Wet first, place without the pipe attached down near bottom by angling (this should be very easy it's the last bit that is difficult). Now with grain basket on its side on a table put a finger or two from one hand inside on gasket and other hand opposite do same on outside of basket. By pushing on gasket edge when it tries to roll over you can reseat it while moving bottom plate in place. Works great and makes for an easy placement.

Yeah, I had that same problem! Fought with it for dern near 30 minutes before I got it to set in the groove and silicon gasket to stay in place. Whole time I was cussing worse then anything you can possibly imagine..Then found out I was putting the 'top' in there for the bottom..Thought those were 'legs' to keep the basket off the filter...When I put the correct plate for the bottom it went in place fairly easily..Maybe there is a 'c'-hair difference in diameter between the two??
"'C' hair", ha! That's one you don't read every day! :). I remember this, told you they are arms not legs!!
 
Am I the only one that has the hardest time getting the silicone gasket to stay on while I insert the bottom plate. That takes me at least 15 minutes. Ughhhh!!!

Wet the inside of the mash tun and the silicone seal, angle it in towards the bottom and then straighten out and slide it into place slowly. Usually goes in a lot easier when the sides are wet too.
 
If you need lube you're doing it wrong.

I get mine to slide in just fine now as long as it's really wet :D


Yes, TT...that's exactly what to do...and the angle of the dangle. Apparently another poster knows of some seller named "Brothaconda" who resells used Grainfathers with this nonissue worked out [emoji13] Everyone else just reads the advice and info that's out there.
 
I feel I need a shower after the direction this has gone LOL


But yea wet the edges, put it in at an angle and hope the rubber stays on till it's at the bottom.



:)
 
You might try storing the basket with the bottom plate in place a few times. It helps the basket develop shape memory. My plate, when wet, slips right in after I did that....and then I add the pipe and nut.
 
Got my Grainfather about a year ago. Love it. I brew 2.5 gallon batches. I love beer but can't drink a lot. Gives me a chance to have quicker turnover and more variety.
 
Most people may know, but in my attempt to get a bit better temp control I ran across this document to change the hysteresis:
http://media.wix.com/ugd/e8b8c7_0c7caceab63b48ffa6317ba31ae2d1db.pdf

I had been thinking about changing over to Celsius to see if it was more accurate. But 0.5C hysteresis vs 1F should be about the same. So setting the controller to C then back to F will let you change the Fahrenheit hysteresis down to 1 from it's default of 2 degrees.

I haven't done a brew yet, but thinking of one this weekend, my guess it the mash temp should be more accurate.
 
Most people may know, but in my attempt to get a bit better temp control I ran across this document to change the hysteresis:
http://media.wix.com/ugd/e8b8c7_0c7caceab63b48ffa6317ba31ae2d1db.pdf

I had been thinking about changing over to Celsius to see if it was more accurate. But 0.5C hysteresis vs 1F should be about the same. So setting the controller to C then back to F will let you change the Fahrenheit hysteresis down to 1 from it's default of 2 degrees.

I haven't done a brew yet, but thinking of one this weekend, my guess it the mash temp should be more accurate.

I found when I changed mine that the temp was rock solid the whole way through the mash...Granted, it MAY have fluctuated when I wasn't looking, but every time I looked at was right at my mash temp..Also, granted, I have only done a single brew on mine, so as the saying goes, your mileage may vary...:)
 
I found when I changed mine that the temp was rock solid the whole way through the mash...Granted, it MAY have fluctuated when I wasn't looking, but every time I looked at was right at my mash temp..Also, granted, I have only done a single brew on mine, so as the saying goes, your mileage may vary...:)

So I did another batch last night, turned out well, the mash temp was held better (kicks on after only 1 degree drop in temp as expected), but with the mash element on, it continues to fall after that for another 2 degrees before stabilizing. I had to toggle the large element a few times throughout the mash.

I'm going to wait and see what they come out with for a controller. I would like to control the GF from a tablet or phone. As it is right now their app is pretty bad (besides the awful units asking me to add 8oz of hops for each addition, I'm missing timers for those additions...can't use it anymore), but I'm hoping maybe they are making an entire new one for their new controller and will be better. If not, I'll just hook up an Arduino and SSR and have a rock solid mash temp, and a fully programmable controller for steps and boil.

I have a feeling the boil is limited by temp as well, as if full wattage was on all the time it may take a while to get up to temp, but it certainly should boil much harder and even tend to over-boil. Don't get me wrong, I like it as is, but just pointing out (confirmed if I use another controller).
 
Can someone with a grainfather do me a favor and measure the diameter of the hole in the glass!!! I have one come soon and I want to build a stainless hop spider that will fit through that hole.

Thanks so much!!!
 
Can someone with a grainfather do me a favor and measure the diameter of the hole in the glass!!! I have one come soon and I want to build a stainless hop spider that will fit through that hole.

Thanks so much!!!

The hole is 1.5" in diameter...
 
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