Got a welder, now the fun begins...

Yakima 728
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bad67z said:
They are both actually a clone of the ESAB/Linde Heliarc HW-20, and yes all the parts are compatible.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification. I was not sure which came first, but assumed the torch I have is a knock off of someones.


GreenMonti said:
Yea, they look like the same parts I use.

That weld looks really good. You'll be just fine bro.:mug:
Click to expand...

Thanks... I hope you're right, my butt is on the line ;)
Now I'm just worried about damaging as little paint as possible. I think I can touch it up, but would like to see how little damage I can do.
I don't know if clamping a heat sink to it would minimize the heat zone or just suck up heat and take it longer to form a puddle and end up with the same damage?

Ed
 
BrewBeemer said:
Tell her what's missing is a brake, shear, tubing bender round and square, plasma cutter, Cold saw, Bridgeport Mill, lathe and Mig.
As she heads to the jewelry store "Bank Book Gone Wild".
Click to expand...

Don't forget the expansion to the shed to store it all... She'll have fun at the jewelry store spending the life insurance after she justifiably kills me.


Here is a a couple pics of the influence of a heat sink... Weld sucks but you can see the distorted heat pattern:
IMG_3465.jpg


IMG_3466.jpg
 
GreenMonti said:
I like the idea of the heat sink. I would place it directly under the weld.
Click to expand...

I'm done for the night and won't be able to spend any time tomorrow, but I will try the heat sink directly under the weld when I get a chance.

I'll also take BrewBeemer's advice and try to get in and out quicker. That's part of the reason this last weld looks pretty crappy... I tried to hurry.


Ed
 
Ed, if you really want to suck the heat away get a thick piece of copper or aluminum on the backside plus it will not stick should you still burn thru.
I had to find the right moment to tell the wife what she bought me for Christmas; http://www.stlbrews.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=2530
Now if I can swing a second one for my birthday next month that's the question.
 
Ohio-Ed said:
I'm done for the night and won't be able to spend any time tomorrow, but I will try the heat sink directly under the weld when I get a chance.

I'll also take BrewBeemer's advice and try to get in and out quicker. That's part of the reason this last weld looks pretty crappy... I tried to hurry.


Ed
Click to expand...


Being where you are in the Tig welding relm, I would just hit it hard for a tack weld and then blast it with air to cool it down. Then hit it again with another tack weld, next to the previous one. Blast it with air to cool it down and repeat. I would also use the heat sink too. That should allow you to do the project with the least amount of heat damage.

If you get a pit in the center of the tack weld, just feather out on the arc a little more slowly while making a tight circular motion.

I have a couple of pieces to send you. I'm gonna see if I can come up with a few other items I think you would like to have. I have some small sheets of Inconel 625, some 321 SS, and a few pieces of 15-3-3-3 titanium. I need to get you some filler for the material. I'm thinking of cutting the rod down so it ships more easily. Are you ok with that? I also have two pieces of the metal cloth material for you to build some purge blocks with.
 
I am no expert by any means but it looks to me like you MAY be a little far away with your tungsten. That tends to spread out the concentration of heat and heats up the surrounding metal more.
 
Berniep said:
I am no expert by any means but it looks to me like you MAY be a little far away with your tungsten. That tends to spread out the concentration of heat and heats up the surrounding metal more.
Click to expand...

It almost looks like he added filler on the last one?
 
Yeah and it's a little cold at the beginning where he fed the filler in and it cooled the puddle but that comes with practice. I think it will help by getting the tungsten closer to the work.
 
Berniep said:
I am no expert by any means but it looks to me like you MAY be a little far away with your tungsten. That tends to spread out the concentration of heat and heats up the surrounding metal more.
Click to expand...

GreenMonti said:
It almost looks like he added filler on the last one?
Click to expand...

Berniep said:
Yeah and it's a little cold at the beginning where he fed the filler in and it cooled the puddle but that comes with practice. I think it will help by getting the tungsten closer to the work.
Click to expand...

I didn't use any filler.
The last weld is ugly because;
1.) I was trying to work around the clamp that was holding the heat sink (the tungsten probably was a bit further away than it could have been, and the angle of the torch was probably too steep to keep gas on the weld)
2.) I tried to get in and back out as quickly as possible (not really concentrating on the quality of the weld)
3.) I don't know what the heck I'm doing, and inconsistancy is the only constant :eek:

I won't be able to try again tonight, but I'll give it another shot tommorrow.

Thanks for the input!!

Ed
 
BrewBeemer said:
Ed, if you really want to suck the heat away get a thick piece of copper or aluminum on the backside plus it will not stick should you still burn thru.
I had to find the right moment to tell the wife what she bought me for Christmas; http://www.stlbrews.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=2530
Now if I can swing a second one for my birthday next month that's the question.
Click to expand...

BB,

The heat sink I used was an aluminum 25 amp SSR heatsink. I may replace it with a stack of aluminum scrap for this application because I'd rather not ruin it.

Nice Christmas present!! Your wife sure is good to you ;)

Ed
 
Ed,
I was thinking (painful at times), have you given the crater fill option on your welder a try? Use it or practice feathering the foot control at the end of your welds. Remember you must keep the torch on the weld until it cools not like Mig ot stick lifting away instantly after the arc stops. This applies to stainless especially.
What happened to Swagman?
 
BrewBeemer said:
Ed,
I was thinking (painful at times), have you given the crater fill option on your welder a try? Use it or practice feathering the foot control at the end of your welds. Remember you must keep the torch on the weld until it cools not like Mig ot stick lifting away instantly after the arc stops. This applies to stainless especially.
What happened to Swagman?
Click to expand...

BB,

Crater switch is off, I haven't tried it yet. I have been trying to feather the beginning and end of the weld near the edges to prevent melting the edges (that's part of how I'm overheating... taking to much time). I need to work on keeping the torch over the weld while it cools. I'm reminded when I lift the helmet to inspect and hear the gas hissing from the torch... I'm getting better.

Ed
 
All right guys... I ditched a meeting I was suppose to attend tonight cause Mr. Pumpkin kept calling my name.

I tried another practice run with aluminum clamped under the weld as a heat sink. Wow, is sucked a lot of heat out. I had to crank up the current to get the base piece to puddle at all and ended up with about the same discoloration because of how long it took me to heat it up.

After trying to clamp the broken rib on Mr. Pumpkin, I realized the rivets prevented me from using the heat sink and the ornamentation on top was REALLY in the way. I realized I could get the torch in, but could not move it in any direction. So basically, I just held the torch and stepped on the pedal. I only got a small spot welded, but as far as I'm concerned it's done (if it breaks, I'll just re-do it). Good news is not much damage to the paint. Here's the results:

IMG_3470.jpg


IMG_3471.jpg
 
Ohio-Ed said:
BB,

Crater switch is off, I haven't tried it yet. I have been trying to feather the beginning and end of the weld near the edges to prevent melting the edges (that's part of how I'm overheating... taking to much time). I need to work on keeping the torch over the weld while it cools. I'm reminded when I lift the helmet to inspect and hear the gas hissing from the torch... I'm getting better.

Ed
Click to expand...


This is why you get in and apply high heat fast and get out instead of saturating the metal burning away the paint.
Your post flow time can be adjusted to save your gas as steel who cares vs stainless, main reason is to shield the tungsten until it cools down a little preventing oxidation. Depending on the amperage will determine the post flow time cooling the tungsten.
 
I ordered a 30" X 48", 1/2" steel plate and some 1.5" x 1.5" 11ga square tubing to make a welding table. I'll pick up the material Friday and hope to build a simple table over the weekend.

I'll get a little practice before starting on a Brew Stand.
 
Good question.
Problem is, if Ed has never stick welded before he's in for a whole new treat.
Tig usually is the hardest to master but stick is the hardest to get the hang of from the start. Especially if he's gonna use E7018.
I suggest 1/8" E6010 for starters. Much easier to weld with, but not nearly as pretty as E7018.
 
BrewBeemer said:
Now your starting to piss me off Ed with all your new toys, I have to step it up a bit I purchased one of these;

http://brewhemoth.com/brewhemoth. Tag your it!

You going to tig or stick weld the table?
Click to expand...

BB,

Don't try to pretend you have a shortage of toys. Nice fermentor!!!

I plan to tig the table. I need way more practice and want to use the practice time productively.

Ed
 
The Phenix rises again, well a pile of kegs, corny's, a pump, Monster Mill,
muffin fans, and now a fermenter.
Now I can make hard cider before the brewery gets built.

Have you checked into the Miller welding table hold down clamps?
My thiking they would help holding projects down and jigged to weld.
Anything to make welding easy got my vote.
You would have to slot and keyhole your table.
BTW what did that 1/2" plate coat?

Lifes full of surprises, we just rescued someones pet a clipped wing pheasant
running around. My cat has an eye on it but afraid of it, funny as hell to watch.
 
BrewBeemer said:
The Phenix rises again, well a pile of kegs, corny's, a pump, Monster Mill,
muffin fans, and now a fermenter.
Now I can make hard cider before the brewery gets built.

Have you checked into the Miller welding table hold down clamps?
My thiking they would help holding projects down and jigged to weld.
Anything to make welding easy got my vote.
You would have to slot and keyhole your table.
BTW what did that 1/2" plate coat?

Lifes full of surprises, we just rescued someones pet a clipped wing pheasant
running around. My cat has an eye on it but afraid of it, funny as hell to watch.
Click to expand...

I saw the clamps I think you are talking about but I don't really have a means to cut slots in the top. I'm thinking about drilling a series of 1/2" holes and then just fabricate some hold downs/clamps.
The plate cost about $150.

Keep an eye on the cat... curiosity will outweigh fear eventually.
My wife has an aquatic frog in a small aquarium that gets the cats attention. She has to keep a weight on the cover because the cat has been caught fishing for the frog in the past.

How are you planning to temp control the fermenter?
 
I have a big side by side Sears fridge sitting outside for years that may work or locate a smaller used one on craigslist.

On your table find someone with a plasma it shouldn't take long to follow a straight edge. Too bad your far away as I have a big Milwaukee mag base drill for those table top holes. Two speed with variable speed 3/4" chuck.
If you got the balls a 3/4" chuck 325 rpm Sioux drill motor an arm breaker by far.
That 204# steel plate would be a bear wrestling it on the Bridgeport to mill out the slots.
 
BrewBeemer said:
I have a big side by side Sears fridge sitting outside for years that may work or locate a smaller used one on craigslist.

On your table find someone with a plasma it shouldn't take long to follow a straight edge. Too bad your far away as I have a big Milwaukee mag base drill for those table top holes. Two speed with variable speed 3/4" chuck.
If you got the balls a 3/4" chuck 325 rpm Sioux drill motor an arm breaker by far.
Click to expand...

Ya never know... someday there may be a plasma cutter close to me :D

I'm pondering if I can use the drill press and just drill a line of holes along each long side about 10" in from the edge.

So will you leave the fermenter in the fridge? I'm trying to understand how folks move/store the conicals. Maybe you need some kind of a ramp or lift to get it in or out of the fridge.

Ed
 
How are you going to support 204# of steel plate on the drill press?
Sounds dangerous to me unless you have a large radial press.

On the ferm it will live in the fridge, no way can I lift with my bad back.

If you get a plasma Hypertherm is the best out there, sticker shock beware.
I've got a little Hypertherm Max 20, she's a beaut.
 
BrewBeemer said:
How are you going to support 204# of steel plate on the drill press?
Sounds dangerous to me unless you have a large radial press.

On the ferm it will live in the fridge, no way can I lift with my bad back.

If you get a plasma Hypertherm is the best out there, sticker shock beware.
I've got a little Hypertherm Max 20, she's a beaut.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of drilling the holes after the table is built and on casters. Basically, roll the table up to the drill press (I may have to raise the table) and drill through the top.
 
All is well just paint Mr.Pumpkin.

I now have a male ring neck pheasant in a box, caught it last nigh just before dark running around then found in a busy intersection laying on it's side.
I thought it got hit but found no injuries.
This morning checked for a band, none found plus it's walking, pecked the hell out of me and hisses. A local Vet doctor has a ranch full of birds he'll take it as it's wings are clipped. What a pretty bird I must add.
No this will not be a happy meal or under glass.
 
Ed, check this out, let the site run thru takes a few seconds, you'll like what it can do,
I want one, wifey does not;http://www.plasmacam.com/indexfla.php
I have their catalog not the free video it's on the way.

It is considered an exotic pet, a pheasant I never knew this?
Are they considered an expensive pet?
Nobody would take it all the shelters in my area
as it isn't native or they were out of county.
Hell we have wild turkey, deer, skunk, racoon, opossum,
brown squirrels, and redtail hawk.

It sure was pretty plus it sprang to life fighting
me plus the vet hissing and pecking a healthy strong bird.
It will spend its days at a big bird ranch, I now feel
good inside doing the right thing. Animal lover here rather
shoot idiot people than animals, no just thinking this.
I still laugh as wifey she went on line typing in pheasant and
what popped up was how to prepare pheasant, oops.

Cold enough up your way? We'll get hammered by rain tomorrow,
hope the island stays afloat.
Any different tasting than dog I had in China?
Bow Wow Yum Yum! Your Dog Die Bring Mr. Kitty!
 
:off:I have no idea about pheasant as a pet, but the farm I buy quail from for training my pointer sells them for (I think) around $20. Pretty steep when the quail run $6. These aren't wing clipped birds, though, and certainly don't like people. Hence why they are such good dog training tools, act a lot like wild birds.

Back on topic, we just got my dad a Miller Diversion 180 for Christmas. It's sitting in my living room right now so he doesn't see it until the 25th. It's basically taken every single ounce of self control I have not opening the box to "make sure it's all there." I'm sure I'll have my own pictures of practice welds to throw up here soon, assuming I can pry the torch from his hands...
 
In the living room?
Dang bro that thing weighs 224 pounds, bet 235 pounds with the box.
Make 'em big and strong people to move that welder into the house.

My 350 Sync weighs 695 pounds, not likely to be moved into the house anytime soon.

For your dad, right you'll store it for him at your place, even check it out to be sure it runs properly. Get him a big gas bottle also? Prost.
 
Nah, this is the little one. It's only 50 lbs from the website, probably more in person though. 120 or 240 V. Mostly for the motorcycles, so making small parts and exhausts. I bet the whole box weighs 100 lbs as shipped, light enough I could pick it up when I vacuumed yesterday, but heavy enough I don't want to move it again. I shouldn't even be talking about it because the more I think about it the more tempted I am to go take a look.

I'm letting him worry about the gas an supplies, seeing as how I'm back in school. I figure if I keep his fridge full of the lagers he likes we'll be even...
 
BB -

Good job taking care of the bird. I'm not convinced most folks would do the same. My house is full of my wife's rescues.

That PlasmaCam is COOL! What's the price range?

I'm picking up the steel for my welding table this afternoon.
We have about 6" of snow on the ground but it has warmed up to mid 20's (4f Wednesday morning).


Trigger - Damn nice Christmas gift for your dad! Likw BrewBeemer said, make sure he checks around for gas bottles / suppliers. In my area, prices & options are all over the place. Also beware of buying a used bottle from an individual. Make sure you can get it filled beforehand. Suppliers seem to want to sell you a small bottle that will keep you coming to them for refills on a regular basis.

Ed
 

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