https://www.google.com/search?q=how...2rOQaX&biw=1024&bih=653#imgrc=PfFr1-NHb0nbKM:
Link to picture I hope.
Link to picture I hope.
Although, isn't this what I had done originally? The power in and pigtail went to the bus, the load neutral went to the outlet. Is there something special about these that require direct routing and the bus wont work?
so as i understand it: you are turning the breaker on, it is not tripping but you are getting no power at the receptacle. if this is the case, i would say you have a bad breaker. with no load hooked up, the breaker won't trip, even if wired up incorrectly.
regarding the neutral, it appears correct in your photo. it should be hooked up by:
- connect incoming neutral to isolated neutral bar in spa panel
- connect gfci neutral pigtail to isolated neutral bar
- connect receptacle neutral to neutral terminal on the breaker (not the neutral bar)
there is no need to solder or wire nut anything. you can try wiring nutting the incoming neutral and pigtail neutral, to check if your neutral bar is not isolated but that won't matter right now anyway: with the breaker on and no load, you should still see voltage at the receptacle.
Your line in neutral has to go to the breaker. The load side is a seperate neutral FROM the breaker so it can monitor for faults. They cannot be tied together on the same bar.
Your line-in neutral should be connected (wirenutted) to the pigtail on the breaker and the neutral bar (load neutral) should be tied to the neutral terminal on the breaker.
Tie the pigtail from the breaker to the incoming neutral only. Tie the outgoing neutrals to the neutral terminal on the breaker.
It's hard to to tell, but I think you have 1 too many neutrals on the breaker. The pigtail built into the breaker should run to the neutral bus, the incoming neutral should run to the neutral bus, and the neutral on the outlet should run to the neutral bus not the breaker. Is the gfci tripping? Gfci' work by sensing an imbalance in current flow. Hard to say, but I think if you remove the neutral wire attached to the breaker/outlet and attach outlet/neutral bus it will work.
You would need to identify exactly where that measurement is being taken to make any judgments.One thing I noticed is when running my multimeter on one power-in and one load I get 120v instead of 240v. Any idea what that's aboot?
I disagree with the first two quotes and the red in the third. All clamp terminal connections to the breaker should be load conductors.
Line neutral should terminate on the "isolated/ungrounded" neutral bus bar. The breaker neutral pigtail terminates on that same neutral bus bar. The load neutral terminates on the neutral breaker clamp.
The result is that all load neutral current passes through the breaker and can be monitored.
I believe it is wired correctly. Please remember the symptoms. Breaker is NOT tripping, even with the test button. There is no voltage when the breaker is ON.
Or maybe just spring for the in-line...
Yeah I could go that route too. I'm renting so would prefer not modifying the panel but we'll see, heh.
Alright, tried the wire nut and bypassing the neutral bar. Still no luck. Made sure all the wires and everything was set properly, still no voltage on the load side of breaker. Think it's borked.
i went with the 30 amp gfci breaker in my panelboard, even though that breaker cost more than a 50 amp spa panel. factoring in a 30 amp 'regular' breaker for the panelboard in addition to the spa panel and it was only a few bucks more to just get the 30 amp gfci. plus it is one less piece of equipment to mount, wire up, have the potential to malfunction, etc.
FWIW Every electrician(i got quotes from about 6 from Beaverton to McMinville) told me they are not allowed to install 50A breakers for <30A loads because of safety reasons that it might not blow when it should, and it would fail inspection. That was reason enough for me to just put the 30A into the main breaker and be done with it.
So if your looking to get it inspected in Oregon i suggest just doing the 30A like you said...
Only once I plug something in and turn it on.
Dryer.What somethings have you tried? Are you sure they are wired correctly?
30A breaker -> 30A GFCI breaker in house's breaker panel.Wait, I don't understand the swap direction and which breaker is being tested where.
-BD
as i understand it, he has scrapped the spa panel idea and is now serving the receptacle directly from a 30 amp gfci breaker in his main panel. correct?
is this breaker in your main panel or in a sub-panel? the fact that the test button doesn't work even with no load on it is...strange.
Good for you. I'm glad this problem is solved. It's been keeping me up nights
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