Getting 240v To The Garage

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rhamilton

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So SWMBO finally kicked me out of the kitchen and my 1650w turkey fryer isn't cutting it anymore for full-boils and all-grain. I'm looking to build an e-kettle and move my operations to the garage but there is not an existing 240v connection.

The hot water heater and the AC unit are in a closet in the garage.

Should I get an electrician to run a new 240v line or can I tap into the connections for the hot water heater / AC unit?

If I end up having to run a new line, what can I expect to pay? (breaker is across the house, attic access, approx 100-150 ft run from garage to breaker)

Thanks in advance!
 
Hot water heater is 240? Either way, if you use those circuits you'll have to make sure you turn both of them off while brewing, or you might blow the breaker. If you decided to run your own wire, I would expect to pay a few hundred at least.
 
If you want to tap an existing line, think about electric range or dryer. Those are things you can do without on brew day.
 
Is there a subpanel in the garage? A breaker panel? If so, are there any open slots available?

If you have a panel and open slots, you can have someone wire it pretty easy. If you have to run cable, now you're talking a lot more $$$.
 
I just did a 240v 100 amp subpanel to my shed. Ran me about $350 and about $250 of that was just wire.

If you are wanting about the same the wire you need is about $7.30 a foot. I needed 35 feet. So your looking at about $1000 just in wire alone.
 
Is there a subpanel in the garage? A breaker panel? If so, are there any open slots available?

Breaker box is in the back corner of the house, basically it can't get any further away from where I want it to be :mad:

It has an open slot, so install a 240v/40a or 55a breaker, and run 8 or 6 gauge wire to the garage?

If you are wanting about the same the wire you need is about $7.30 a foot. I needed 35 feet. So your looking at about $1000 just in wire alone.

Damn, what gauge wire?
 
Wait. You have a water heater and AC in the garage now?

Maybe a pair of 120V elements would work fine instead of running a 220V circuit. It would save a ton of money anyway. Just make sure they are on separate breakers, and install inline GFI.
 
Seems to me you could use the power to the hot water heater and just not shower, do laundry or other heavy hot water demand items for a few hours while brewing. The hot water heater tank will be full of hot water and you may not even notice.

How much hot water do you anticipate needing during a brew session?
 
Probably 6 gauge and you might need 4-wire. If the total distance is over 140 ft, #4 will be needed.
 
I just did a 240v 100 amp subpanel to my shed. Ran me about $350 and about $250 of that was just wire.

If you are wanting about the same the wire you need is about $7.30 a foot. I needed 35 feet. So your looking at about $1000 just in wire alone.

I'm assuming this is for 100amp service. 6/3 with ground romex is $2.75 or less a foot.
 
I'm assuming this is for 100amp service. 6/3 with ground romex is $2.75 or less a foot.

He's probably quoting #2. Definitely don't need a 100A circuit unless you plan on 4 5500W elements all at the same time, or a 1BBL or bigger system.

To the OP: Is your hot water heater electric? You don't necessarily need 240V to go electric, but having separate 120V circuits is almost a priority. If you have 2 15A circuits (most common) you could run 1500W elements, but you'd need 2 to get your water/wort heated in a timely manner. If you have 2 20A circuits you could use 2000W elements.

I believe the cheapest most efficient new circuit would be running 10/4 romex to your garage, installing a 30A dryer receptacle, and designing your system so that only 1 5500W element can be on at the same time.
 
The cheapest way would definitely be to just run a 30 amp circuit and only use one element at a time but if you want to speed up the brewing process and be able to use two elements then this is the wire you need.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_57468-295-6...=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=8+awg+&facetInfo=

This will get you a 50 amp circuit in the garage and the box stores usually have it by the foot on 2500' spools for a little bit less money.
 
To the OP: Is your hot water heater electric? You don't necessarily need 240V to go electric, but having separate 120V circuits is almost a priority. If you have 2 15A circuits (most common) you could run 1500W elements, but you'd need 2 to get your water/wort heated in a timely manner. If you have 2 20A circuits you could use 2000W elements.

I had to take a second look when I got home. The hot water heater is gas, but it has a drain built in so after a good cleaning, I might be tapping into the hot water heater directly to serve up instantly hot water so that should eliminate the tap to 170° heating wait.

I really wanted the 240v circuit but after realizing I have hot water on-demand and three separate 15A circuits in the garage, I might just stick with double 1500w kettle (I'm a BIAB'er so just the kettle :D)
 
Sounds like a good approach. Less expensive and faster to build. If you are going to crank the water heater up, I strongly recommend installing a tempering valve. That way, water going into the house won't be a scalding hazard.
 
Maybe run a subpanel to the garage but feed it with aluminum conductors. Should be a lot cheaper. Then run what you need from the subpanel.
 
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