Gardening: My Tomatoe and Pepper Progress

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Got a couple of 50 lb Georgia Rattlesnakes this evening, and a couple Moon and Stars.

watsize1.jpg
watsize2.jpg
 
Dunno if this is the correct thread. But I'm seeking advice.

I live in Norway, EU. I've planted tomato-seeds which are supposed to be "short-season"-seeds two years in a row. They don't get done until frost sets in. Have to chop off and let them ripen inside. One of the plants this year, like last year is big and bushy as a small bear, I'm not a big guy, but this plant would defeat me in the ring no questions asked, but still green small-ish tomatoes. Didn't start to grow like a giant until maybe 3 weeks ago. Same as last year. Have another which is small cherries and they are still tiny green ones. I have 8 different strains running, in what I believe is pretty poor soil, (mosly clay after 1m)

Rest of the bunch is approx 75% green still. It's getting colder here. We have long days during the summer at this latitude. It doesn't get dark, at most a bit hint of "dunkel" during may/june/july. Might this be why my tomatoes doesn't ripen? They "feel" that the season is still "young"? It's getting darker now though.
 
Last edited:
Sounds like you are growing a “determinate” type tomato. They grow as a bush instead of a vine, but more importantly they all tend to “wait” and ripen all at once. You may want to start the seeds inside a month or so before growing season to get a jump on things if they consistently come up short. You could also look at growing an indeterminate variety. They grow as a vine so they have there own challenges keeping them tamed while growing, but they begin bearing fruit sooner and ripen individually sooner. As for clay 1M down, it wouldn’t be a problem if it has drainage enough so the roots aren’t standing in water.
 
Sounds like you are growing a “determinate” type tomato. They grow as a bush instead of a vine, but more importantly they all tend to “wait” and ripen all at once. You may want to start the seeds inside a month or so before growing season to get a jump on things if they consistently come up short. You could also look at growing an indeterminate variety. They grow as a vine so they have there own challenges keeping them tamed while growing, but they begin bearing fruit sooner and ripen individually sooner. As for clay 1M down, it wouldn’t be a problem if it has drainage enough so the roots aren’t standing in water.

We started this party at least two months before we planted them outside. They looked really healthy inside, one of them even started to grow fruit, which seems stange, after planted they stalled, then suddenly exploded in growth, and flowers didn't seem to show until one month ago /1.5 months ago. I have to look into the determinate indeterminate thing as I don't know what that means.

We have this one plant I mentioned, which is huge as I don't know what, and this other which is also huge but in the width. She's everywhere, but tiny tiny green tomatoes. I can't see how this last plant will make it when it comes to her fruit.
 
This is what I picked today. The peppers on the lower left are habaneros and the ones on the bottom right are a superhot variety that were mislabeled as habaneros but clearly are different. Any guess as to the type? They look like ghost chillies to me but I don't know...

They're also cayenne (red and black), banana, jalapeno and San Marzano tomatoes.
IMG_20190823_183154579.jpeg
 
Smellygllove: Rest of the bunch is approx 75% green still. It's getting colder here. We have long days during the summer at this latitude. It doesn't get dark, at most a bit hint of "dunkel" during may/june/july. Might this be why my tomatoes doesn't ripen? They "feel" that the season is still "young"? It's getting darker now though.[/QUOTE]

You didn't say what your temps are and how long the growing season between frosts.

While tomatoes need long/warm days they need some night darkness to have good yield. Tomatoes also will suffer transplant shock and stall. I find that my tomatoes that survive summer will green up and have loads of fruit in October when the nights are 50s temps and the days 70s temps. The days are 10 hours or less; usually the frost gets those late plants before the fruit ripens.

My suggestion is to try covering the plants so they get some darkness at night. Depending on the temps at night that might be an added bonus. Remember when starting plants you want short stocky plants. You may have to keep putting the plants in bigger pots to keep then from getting leggy.

Don't give up for another 40 or 50 years! Tomato cultivation is an art. Meanwhile eat fried/baked green tomato slices. There is nothing better!
 
You should post a video of you eating that whole.

Ive sampled CARDI Scorpion, CCN Reapers and CCN/Pepperlover Dragons Breath all at the same sitting. Im talking a finger nail sized piece from the tip of each one. They are all blazing hot. I really could not tell a heat difference from the 3 other than they were all far hotter than any pepper i tried yet.....I just dont see how anyone eats these pods whole and i love spicy food. My lower gut would be in agony from them for many hours.

Scorpion tasted better to me and the Dragons Breath was the most bitter.

I just picked a few more of these nasty buggars.
f1YoUCG.jpg


Got another nice load of Joes Long Cayenne. A few Thunder Mountains on top. Im saving the cayennes for a fermented sauce. I got 200 grams already in the freezer and this load yesterday. Plus another load is almost ripe...This plant is killer and its a great tasting pepper for sauce.
8RmOkra.jpg
 
Picked a few for farmers market trades today. 1365grams worth mostly in aji arnaucho off just 2 tiny plants. Got a guy who wants all the arnaucho. Gunna take the load of supers too and see what kind of interest there is at the market.
B7L0kn7.jpg

ShFIxiz.jpg
 
Just culled all of my tomato plants. They were looking quite poorly. It was sad but cathartic in a weird way. Now I have plenty of space for my pepper plants to flourish.

Have picked at least 60 habaneros and a almost that many cayenne, jalapeno and ancho peppers (combined). All I have left to do is fertilize them for the final time this season.
 
Just processed more cayenne for the fermented sauce. Upto 490 grams now and 1 more load plus a few more. I think i gunna use my fermenter just until its sour then into a jar and in the fridge for a few months.

My big brown bhuts are finally turning. Took all summer for them to produce.
Anyone into big brown bhuts? :D
TJlAlUe.jpg

7KrutW3.jpg
 
Last edited:
Clock is ticking now. Ive got 2 kinds taking forever to produce ripe pods and both are loaded with greeners. My big brown bhuts got hammered by hornworms but it looks like they are gunna make it. I didnt even realize they had so many huge green pods on them until most the leaves were eaten away.

Tossed 2 trays worth of Thunder Mountain in the dehydrator yesterday. They should be done today and ready for a very light smoking.

I picked enough long cayenne to top off my ferment. Aged them a few more days on the window sill. Probably save the rest for seed stock and a tiny bit of powder. They seem to naturally air dry just fine in the sun.
 
This is weird, does anyone know what this means for my tomato plant? We’ve been hit with 3 hail storms early on in the season so I’m assuming this plant has some sort of disease.
IMG_5817.JPG
 
This is weird, does anyone know what this means for my tomato plant? View attachment 643969
That's Blossom End Rot and is caused by the plant not getting enough calcium. Sometimes that's because the soil doesn't have enough calcium and sometimes it's because the plant is growing too fast to take in as much calcium as it needs.
 
A 4lb bag of calcium nitrate is well under $10 and will last for years if just used for the calcium. Its 15.5-0-0 NPK and about 19% water soluble calcium.

Calcium nitrate is the exact same source of calcium found in CalMag.

If you want a more affordable liquid with almost as much calcium as CalMag, checkout CNS17 Grow formula. Its not cheap but its a well rounded fertilizer.

CNS17 Grow- N 3.0%, P 1.0%, K 2.0%, Ca 3.0%, Mg 0.5%, Mn 0.005%

CalMag Plus N 2.0%, Ca 3.2%, Mg 1.2%, Fe 0.1%

CalMag Plus costs over $17/qt and CNS17 Grow is usually $12 or less. Gets much cheaper when bought by the gallon.
https://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-CNS17-Nutrient-Formula-1-Gallon/dp/B00IGFJXHC
 
Last edited:
My garden sucked balls this year. I got about 3 tomatoes so far, and the plants are on the downswing. I'm not sure I will get any more to ripen. 1 very small pepper. 3 cucumbers.
 
^This ...I use calcium nitrate and it rules!

I gave up on all other sources of fast acting calcium. Calcium nitrate is just too cheap and easy. All my pots get a good shot of crab shell meal a few weeks before planting. Its slow to work but works great....Its just expensive. Just dont go overboard with calcium nitrate because its a salt.

If you are drain to waste its not a huge deal...like in most pots. Even with a saucer it will get flushed by rain and watering.

The best is calcium acetate (no nitrogen) but its a pain to find and a little bit of pain to make. Some supplement outlets sell it. Calcium acetate is just calcium carbonate broke down with high strength vinegar instead of nitric acid. The powder left over is water soluble calcium acetate.
 
Last edited:
@juggabrew - Do some research on blossom end rot, I think that may be your problem. I put a 1/4 - 1/2 cup of gypsum (the same kind you would use on your lawn to sweeten the soil - make more basic) in the hole when I plant my tomatoes which is supposed to help prevent blossom end rot.
 
I got a 'living lettuce' from the grocery store a couple months ago. It's a hydroponic lettuce plant with the roots and all still attached. We used most of the lettuce in a salad that night but planted the root with 4 or 5 leaves still attached and it started growing immediately! After a couple weeks, I noticed that it was getting ravaged with cabbage worms so picked them all off and googled to see if there were any remedies. One website said that putting cardboard under the plant helps for some reason. I did that and the worms haven't been back yet.

If that hadn't worked, the next step was to buy a collapsible mesh food cover from the dollar store. Fingers crossed that I won't need to do that.
Pop+Up+Mesh+Screen+Food+Cover.jpg
 
@juggabrew - Do some research on blossom end rot, I think that may be your problem. I put a 1/4 - 1/2 cup of gypsum (the same kind you would use on your lawn to sweeten the soil - make more basic) in the hole when I plant my tomatoes which is supposed to help prevent blossom end rot.

I have a bag of gypsum in my brewery so I just sprinkled some over the soil before watering. Not sure I’ll get anything useful this time of year but I’ll plan for it next year.
 
Gardens still doing well. The herbs are nice and last night I made a sauce with those black krims. I started with evoo and warmed in pro clad. Added chunks of onion, then thyme, purple and green basil, oregano, some garlic, splash of sriracha, spoonful of sugar, and salt. Sauted softly then added those beautiful black krims that were in the window seal, and two other tomatoes and simmered for a few hours. It turned orange as batali says. Immersion blended to finish. Pretty good. Some gifts for the neighbors. Had to cut a lot of the krims out so not the prettiest pic but they were amazing!
20190920_205903.jpeg
20190920_181430.jpeg
20190920_181146.jpeg
20190920_181425.jpeg
20190920_183550.jpeg
20190920_184135.jpeg
 
I might get lucky. Got a bunch of these finally starting to turn. The brown bhut in the center was not critical but i love my aji panca for a seasoning pepper. The artificial light dont do it justice. Them big bhuts are a really cool looking pepper.
1FfNqPq.jpg
 
I might get lucky. Got a bunch of these finally starting to turn. The brown bhut in the center was not critical but i love my aji panca for a seasoning pepper. The artificial light dont do it justice. Them big bhuts are a really cool looking pepper.
1FfNqPq.jpg
Yum
 
IMG_4614.JPG

The tomatoes and peppers were crazy this year. I’ve learned to start my seeds later and plant later. We’ve had so much rain in early May the last several years. Tomatoes hate wet feet. Planted June 1st and it dried up. Just pulled them yesterday and had a bushel of greens still. Tomorrow is salsa verde.
 
Dunno if this is the correct thread. But I'm seeking advice.

I live in Norway, EU. I've planted tomato-seeds which are supposed to be "short-season"-seeds two years in a row. They don't get done until frost sets in. Have to chop off and let them ripen inside. One of the plants this year, like last year is big and bushy as a small bear, I'm not a big guy, but this plant would defeat me in the ring no questions asked, but still green small-ish tomatoes. Didn't start to grow like a giant until maybe 3 weeks ago. Same as last year. Have another which is small cherries and they are still tiny green ones. I have 8 different strains running, in what I believe is pretty poor soil, (mosly clay after 1m)

Rest of the bunch is approx 75% green still. It's getting colder here. We have long days during the summer at this latitude. It doesn't get dark, at most a bit hint of "dunkel" during may/june/july. Might this be why my tomatoes doesn't ripen? They "feel" that the season is still "young"? It's getting darker now though.

Sounds like you are growing a “determinate” type tomato. They grow as a bush instead of a vine, but more importantly they all tend to “wait” and ripen all at once. You may want to start the seeds inside a month or so before growing season to get a jump on things if they consistently come up short. You could also look at growing an indeterminate variety. They grow as a vine so they have there own challenges keeping them tamed while growing, but they begin bearing fruit sooner and ripen individually sooner. As for clay 1M down, it wouldn’t be a problem if it has drainage enough so the roots aren’t standing in water.


Nope, big and bushy tomatoes are indeterminate - they grow into monster behemoths and just don't stop until the freezes arrive. Determinate tomatoes have a pre-determined size, pre-determined amount of flowers, and often grow their fruit in long double-rows. Up north here, determinate varieties produce a crop way easier than indeterminate.

Thing is that tomatoes don't do big and heavy fruit unless they get some darkness during the night. That's why when you grow them way up north they don't start fruiting heavy until about a month after midsummer. Same with peppers.
 
Nope, big and bushy tomatoes are indeterminate - they grow into monster behemoths and just don't stop until the freezes arrive. Determinate tomatoes have a pre-determined size, pre-determined amount of flowers, and often grow their fruit in long double-rows. Up north here, determinate varieties produce a crop way easier than indeterminate.

Thing is that tomatoes don't do big and heavy fruit unless they get some darkness during the night. That's why when you grow them way up north they don't start fruiting heavy until about a month after midsummer. Same with peppers.

I believe the tomato tomahto phrase works well here. Imderminate Will get “bushy” especially if you don’t prune suckers along the way, but does grow as a vine and at least typically fruits continually through the season. Good information though about the lack of darkness interfering with production. Knowing this, do you tend to plant late in the year as well since you won’t reap rewards early?
 
I believe the tomato tomahto phrase works well here. Imderminate Will get “bushy” especially if you don’t prune suckers along the way, but does grow as a vine and at least typically fruits continually through the season. Good information though about the lack of darkness interfering with production. Knowing this, do you tend to plant late in the year as well since you won’t reap rewards early?

Since you can't really leave them outside until perhaps the middle of June, it really makes no sense to start them inside before the first of April otherwise they either get too large or too lanky. Of course if you have a greenhouse or glassed in balcony then the rules are a bit different.
 
Back
Top