BrewThruYou
Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure they won't price match. That's pretty much why they have different model numbers for different retailers.
ruk said:Question to some of you who have done the front faucet design. How long is the shank used? Could the 2" work ? how about 4". The reason I am asking is that my LBHS has no 3" shanks and I really want to mod this tonight. Thanks to my wife and kids for getting me an early fathers day present.
I went out and bought one of these fridges because of this thread... mostly have just been putting my beer in there and letting it hang out, havent done the conversion yet. Was pondering procuring a setup for mounting a commercial 1/6th that I can get at my local Total wine... What type of connector do those traditionally use? I figured if i was going to do a homebrew setup i would want a ball lock from the research i have done here. Are commercial 1/6 kegs also ball lock? I keep reading Sanke but i am not sure where that fits in... Is there a kegs for dummies section?
Bumbler!!! I accidentally snapped the thermostat sensing coil (copper colored) at a point in between the thermostat itself and the inside wall of the fridge ... this is after removing the screws to the t-stat so I could relocate the entire t-stat/lighting unit farther back into the fridge.
My question is this>>>If that coil is snapped, you said "It is tagged and bagged. Need to get a new one." A new one what??? New sensing unit/thermometer OR a completely new fridge? I'm confused ... I don't want to go any further on my kegerator conversion if I have to buy a new fridge. Thanks, Bumbler
The end of the capillary tube was attached to the freezer/evaporator plate.ClaudiusB, I've got a dilemma - I just recently was trying to move my t-stat to a location further back in the fridge to accommodate two corny kegs. However, during the move I accidentally broke the capillary tube to the t-stat (AND heard a hissing noise) at the same point as shown in your second photo (the one w/o the cap. tube).
From there, I saw your post and pulled the rest of the line from the inside wall of the fridge ... about 2 1/2 feet worth. It didn't connect to anything in the back of the fridge
Do I install an external on/off t-stat and hope that it will work then??
Should have worked.instead of 1st connecting the red and blue wires together with a wire nut, I tried to touch the ends together ... nothing happened.
Did you remove the wires at any time?But then I switched the placement of the wires ... put the blue wire where the red one should have gone and the red where the blue one should have gone ... fridge kicked right back up and works like a charm!!!
New poster here. Thought I would share my fridge buying story.
For the past three weeks I have been trying to buy one of the Lowe's Frigidaire 4.4 for $179 but after three weeks of them telling me that there would be one in next week I decided to drive the hour and a half to my closest best buy and plunk down the $199 for one of theirs. I called ahead and said they had two.
After reading this thread and noted how many were damaged I insisted at looking at it before they loaded it and I drove an hour and a half home. Sure enough when they opened it, the back edge was dented. Dented mind you nothing broken or smashed. I said as I am paying full price I would like to see the other one. The disgruntled employee trudged off to get the other one. While taking their time the manager came around and asked us why we were standing there. I told him I was not opposed to taking the dented one as long as it still had the warranty which he said it would have the same one year warranty for a discounted price. He was no less than elated to give me back $60 to take that one.
My cost $140, the dent will never be seen in the back corner. Also of note when I got it home the freezer hinge was broken too which I was taking out anyway. After hearing of everyones experience with damaged units and my own experience with seeing how these things are packaged. I think there is a very slim chance of getting one that isn't damaged. My conclusion is that this is a great unit for conversion and for lack of the manufacturer packaging it well enough, many new fridges could be had for conversion for much less than full retail.
jschnyderite said:does this have room to keep a few mugs cold with 2 corny's and 5# tank inside? I'm considering this for my project
What type of glue did people use to glue the top back down?
What level is everyone setting the original thermostat at?
does this have room to keep a few mugs cold with 2 corny's and 5# tank inside? I'm considering this for my project
The screws that came with my kit (keg connection) are pretty long and I'm worried about nicking a line.
For those that mounted a tower onto the top, did you have to buy new screws to mount it? The screws that came with my kit (keg connection) are pretty long and I'm worried about nicking a line.
Any advice on the screws used or ways the tower was attached to the top would be great.
A while back in the thread people mentioned condensation or ice crystals on the ceiling - I get a solid 1" block of ice covering the entire ceiling. I defrosted it and removed all ice/water this weekend, the full ice cake was back within 8 hours. Anyone else seeing this?
Just picked up a Frigidaire FRC445GM, same fridge. Small scratch, no key but at 130.00 not a bad deal.
...it neither locks the door from someone wanting to get inside...
So it neither locks the door from someone wanting to get inside nor does it even hold it shut if say a fridge packed full of cornies and hoses ever so slightly touches it.
will two pin lock cornies fit (staggered) in there after removing the white molded plastic in the door?
With two ball locks, I had to remove the molding from the door completely in order to get them to fit (staggered) and it is still a pretty tight squeeze.
OK, did a search for you (http://bit.ly/rsedv7). See posts #401 - #411 here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/fr...ridge-kegerator-conversion-89013/index41.html
Confirmed that it is a no go.
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