What I hope GreenMonti can do is couple the boiler output to an immersion chiller in a pot of water and bring it to boil that way. This would be similar to the heating method used in some of the boil kettles I have seen in various breweries.
What I hope GreenMonti can do is couple the boiler output to an immersion chiller in a pot of water and bring it to boil that way. This would be similar to the heating method used in some of the boil kettles I have seen in various breweries.
That is interesting, SS steam kettles seem to work quite well with 5 PSI steam at 222 degrees, the copper heat exchange coil should make for an even tighter approach temperature ~215-218 degrees for boiling. I have seen breweries use anywhere between 10 - 100 PSI saturated steam in thier steam jackets and calendria for boiling. The flash boiler can hit those temperature ranges at atmospheric pressure, delivering ~ 240 Lbs steam an hour. I would hope that boiling 9 Lbs an hour from the BK would be in reach of the boilers steam generating capability, only aspect not calculated is heat transfer from copper heating coil.
OK it is now running and I had some issues. I grabed my immersion chiller and it fit right on the boiler with a simple fitting change. The coil was at the bottom and the temp probe in the middle. After just 5 min I saw a temp increase from 60* to 142*. I would suspect this was just the convection of heated water flowing past the probe. Then, while looking at things, I saw the solder go liquid right in front of me. Oh no. I shut it down and saved a big Oops.
After some more mod work I have it running again. I cut some off the chiller and made the output better for the system design. It has been running 25 mins and I have gone from 50* to 191*. The output has changed from a lot of liquid to much more steam.
I will post up more in a bit. I hope it boils.
Without water quantity control the coil in the mash tun would be the method of choice, with water quantity control direct injection offers tighter control. The water source can be entire water needed, or divided into strike water first, then refilled for balance of water needed. The boil test was a good test, water warmed quite quickly as steam condensed, as water and steam temperatures got closer to each other the condensation dropped and heat transfer dropped off quickly. If you plan to use a coil in the mash tun then heat from the coil will have to be redistributed by stirring or recirculation of the wort just like when you direct fire a mash tun.
GreenMonti, you're dealing with a unique property of water (water is actually an amazing chemical) in that it takes as much energy to raise water from 1 degree C to 100 degrees C as it does to raise it from 100 degrees c to 101. Basically, the phase transitions of water require a huge amount of energy.
I've been thinking on how to integrate the steam mixer into the system and I'm worried about wort flowing back through the mixer screen and into the flash boiler. Provided that I don't disconnect the water input, this won't happen right?
I'm thinking I can dough in via the flash boiler and step mash also. All I'll need is a mash tun outlet valve, a boiler inlet valve and a boiler outlet valve in the entire system (ignoring the faucet and gas lines). Is this correct?
Let me check my spare parts stock at home next weekend and I should have a swagelok check valve spare for you to use. I might get some tuning time on the new system after some plumbing repairs from freezing weather in december.
If you want a challenge try directing SWMBO through shutting off the water service at the street and capping a 1/2" PEX water supply line over the phone from over 1,000 miles away. Then explaining which fittings to buy and which tools to use to assemble and install a cap on the end of the damaged line. Fortunately the water did not hit any of the electrical or control system components, just ran on the floor to the drain and out the door as the inside walls are still not finished yet.
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