Fitting a Vittles Vault with a Thermowell and Bulkhead?

[thadius856]

I have an 80# Vittles Vault on the way for use as a 13-gallon fermenter. Moving up from brew buckets has presented me with new challenges, so upgrades are in order. I'm pretty impressed by [thread=247602]this guy's pimping of a Vittles Vault[/thread] and would like to do something similar (though mine is substantially larger). Unfortunately, I don't have his vast experience with thermowells or bulkheads, and need some help figuring out which types/sizes to buy.

I want to add a thermowell for my controller so I'm not just controlling ambient air temp. I'd prefer the thermowell attached to the lid, if possible. The fermenter is 28" tall and 10 gallons on liquid should come up to about the 20-21" mark. I use Johnson A419 controllers with the stock probe. What the heck do I need to buy to make this work?

I also want to add a bulkhead so I can siphon in-place. I'd need to cap it off during fermentation. If it could accept an airlock, that'd prevent having to make a separate hole. When transferring from primary, I'd like to connect a siphon to the outward side and on the inward side I'd like to connect a cask widge. Like so:

Nobody seems to list the diameter of the included hose (pictured), but they say it fits over a gas diptube nicely.

What kind of bulkhead do I need to buy?

 

[neo71665]

Just duct tape the thermometer probe to the side, its been proven to be within 1-2 degrees correct of an thermowell. Your not adding more cleaning points that way.

 

[stevehaun]

rubber stopper and thermowell in the lid.

http://www.brewershardware.com/16-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell.html

Another rubber stopper and airlock and you are good to go.

Just siphon thru the airlock hole.

 

[thadius856]

Just duct tape the thermometer probe to the side, its been proven to be within 1-2 degrees correct of an thermowell. Your not adding more cleaning points that way.

Can you link to this proof?

[thread=430694]These[/thread]. [thread=388546]Threads[/thread]. [thread=145767]Indicate[/thread]. [thread=45422]Otherwise[/thread]. And there's plenty more of them.

 

[thadius856]

rubber stopper and thermowell in the lid.

http://www.brewershardware.com/16-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell.html

Another rubber stopper and airlock and you are good to go.

Just siphon thru the airlock hole.

How do you propose I siphon through the airlock hole? If not for the bulkhead, what connects the cask widge to the siphon?

 

[thadius856]

Figured out the bulkhead.

MFL Bulkhead Adapter / Shank - Panel Mount - $5.25


To keep yeasties in the fermenter and out of the bulkhead, I'll cap both ends with MFL caps when not siphoning.

Flare Cap Nut - $1.29


Will try to attach a 3-piece airlock to the outside of the MFL bulkhead once it arrives. I'm thinking a 3-4" long piece of 5/16" CO2 hose would give the most support.

If it works, I'll only be using the caps during storage periods when the fermenter is empty. If it doesn't work, I'll drill another hole for the airlock and use the rubber stopper method.

 

[thadius856]

In case anybody stumbles upon this some day and needs more specifics...


Installing the Bulkhead in the Gamma lid:

1. Purchase (per fermenter): one MFL Bulkhead Adapter, two 5/16" stainless barbs with swivel nuts, two 5/16" stainless flare cap nuts, two nylon washers for 1/4" flare fittings, and two dip tube o-rings. Total cost at time of writing: $12.93.
   
2. Drill a pilot hole in the Gamma lid using a ~1/8" twist bit. This allows you to pilot the hole to dead center. If you skip this step, a larger bit will likely "walk" one direction or another and you'll get an off-center hole. I do not recommend the use of a wood paddle (spade) bit, as it will tear out the end of the cut and leaving hanging pieces.
   
3. Enlargen the hole using a ~1/4" twist bit.
   
4. Complete the hole using a 3/8" twist bit.
   
5. Unscrew the nut from the bulkhead. Set aside.
   
6. Slide a diptube o-ring over the long end of the bulkhead. This creates the outside gasket.
   
7. Push or roll the o-ring up to the stationary nut on the bulkhead. Do not "screw" the o-ring on, as it will tear.
   
8. Insert the bulkhead, long end first, into the top of the lid.
   
9. Screw the bulkhead in by hand until the o-ring rests flush against the lid. This will cut 1/4" flare threads into the Gamma lid.
   
10. Slide a diptube o-ring over the long end of the bulkhead. This creates the inside gasket.
    
11. Push or roll the o-ring up to the edge of the Gamma lid. Do not "screw" the o-ring on, as it will tear.
    
12. Screw the nut onto the bulkhead. Do not over-tighten.
    
13. Install the barbs and swivel nuts on any hoses you wish to connect. Note that any flexible 3/8" hose can push onto the bulkhead directly.

Fermenting in the Vittles Vault (with an airlock):

1. Screw a drilled rubber stopper ("bung") onto the bulkhead from the outside. The stopper must be at least 1" long (sizes 2 thru 13). If possible, a 1-1/2" or longer stopper is preferred (sizes 13-1/2 thru 16).
2. Insert an airlock into the drilled rubber stopper. Either 3-piece or S-bubbler type should fit.

Fermenting in the Vittles Vault (with a blowoff):

1. Push a 3/8" ID blowoff hose over the bulkhead from the outside.
2. Insert the opposite end into a blowoff container. I prefer a 24 oz Gatorade bottle; the lid drilled with one 1/2" hole and four 1/8" venting holes.
3. NB: If your blowoff container will be at the same height as the fermenter (e.g., both sitting on the floor), a 48" hose length is recommended.

Siphoning Beer Out of the Vittles Vault:

1. Remove the airlock or blowoff.
2. Remove the Gamma lid.
3. Push a Cask Widge hose over the bulkhead from the inside.
4. Gently drop the Cask Widge float into the beer.
5. Place the Gamma lid on top of the fermenter. Do not screw the lid back on, as this will create a vaccum while siphoning.
6. Push a 3/8" ID [thread=25774]T-style Siphon[/thread] over the bulkhead from the outside.
7. Begin hands-free siphoning. See link above for technique for starting the siphon.
8. NB: For even easier siphoning, push a ball lock keg liquid quick disconnect onto the output end of the siphon. This will allow you to siphon directly from primary into a corny keg.

 

[thadius856]

Pictures!

The shopping list:

A closer look at the bulkhead:

Vital Stats:

• Overall length - 1.517"
• Thickness at threads - 0.4295"
• Thickness at non-threaded area - 0.3455"
• Integral nut thickness - 0.217"
• Integral nut width - 0.560"
• Removable nut thickness - 0.1865"
• Removable nut width - 0.627"
• ID - 0.175" (short end) to 0.190" (long end)
• Max span between nuts (usable) - 0.253"
• Gamma lid thickness (at rim) - 0.1135"

Mounted (as viewed from exterior):

Mounted (as viewed from interior):

Size comparison:

Fit in a 15" deep chamber (snugged to rear and right walls):

 

[mattldm]

Slightly off topic, but looking for help...
I have a question about the Vittles Vault containers. I recently purchased one to start making larger batches and it has a very strong plasticy off gassing smell that I can not get rid of. The manufacturers website says that it is harmless and that it will dissipate but im concerned about the first few batches and picking up any kind of off flavor or aroma. I have tried washing with PBW, bleach solution, dish soap, and its still there.

Anyone else have this problem and notice anything in their beers?

Thanks

 

[thadius856]

Mine had the normal plastic smells that all of these injection molded things do.

No off tastes or smells in any of my batches.

Any plastic fermenter will reek of yeast and hops soon enough. It doesnt hurt anythin, but if thats undesirable for you, you may want tot invest in a stainless fermenter.

 

[Leblais]

How are you guys cleaning the lids?? Are you taking them apart as some people have said to do?

 

[thadius856]

The lid doesn't come apart. It's one piece.

Do you mean how do I clean the inside of the bulkhead? Soap, water, and a draft line brush.

 

[Leblais]

No the lid is really 4 pieces. I was reading :

"The lid design on these things is called a "Gamma Seal Lid" system. It is made up of four pieces, a screw-on lid, the lid seal, a mounting ring that goes on the bucket or vessel, and an o-ring under the mounting ring.

These were originally made to fit on a paint bucket and provide the screw-top lid ability. The lid mounting rings were never designed to be removed once mounted.

So, being that they were made to fit on a regular paint bucket, a regular paint bucket or fermenting bucket lid fits right on to any vessel designed for the Gamma Seal lid systems as well.

If you don't modify the lid mounting ring, you'll shatter/crack it when trying to remove it for sanitation after a few tries. Ask me how I know that one!

If you are not able to remove the lid system, you can't properly sanitize this for use as a fermenter.

Hope that helps. Pics of mine in action on my website in various places. I've stopped using them for fermenters, but they did well once modified."


This is from Dean Palmer --- a post I found online. Do you take it all apart or do you not worry about it?

The lid doesn't come apart. It's one piece.

Do you mean how do I clean the inside of the bulkhead? Soap, water, and a draft line brush.