First try is in the carboy

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jaywbigred

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So I bought my kettle yesterday. After repeatedly reading here, and elsewhere, that one should basically try to buy the most kettle one can afford, I dropped some decent coin on a 32 quart stainless steel kettle at a local restaurant store. The tipping factor was a perfect diameter to fit in my sink.

I picked up a cheap rubber/plastic bin from Walmart for sanitizing, and, luckily (bc my brew kit did not come with a siphon, though I thought it might) I grabbed a kerosene hand pump siphon (wound up working great).

Things I found during the process of my first batch:

1) My kettle is large enough to (just barely) completely cover 2 burners. I debated whether or not to use two, or use 1 centered burner, but eventually went with two.
This is a side view. I actually got it adjusted better shortly after this:
2540-twoburners.jpg

2) After reading various pages about using an extract kit but adjusting directions for a full boil, I decided to go that route and just reduce slightly the bittering hops I put in later. It took 30 minutes to initially boil the full 5 gallons, using a cookie sheet for a lid (forgot to buy this! Might have been fortuitous, bc I don't think a full lid was necessary, esp. since I didn't put a lid on after adding the extract).

I am going to have to do some research about measuring water and getting it into the kettle. I wound up using smaller pots. Do you guys etch or otherwise mark your kettles with a fill line?

I just used tap this go around, will wait to see if I think it had an adverse effect on the final product.
3) I steeped the whole grain malt as instructed for 30 minutes. It smelled like funky bread.
4) Meanwhile, I had a 5 gallon bath of Starsan going and let everything (siphon, spoon, hyrdometer, thermometer, hydrometer vessel) sit in there for awhile. I know it only takes a minute or 3, but I hadn't read of any harm in doing this.
5) Brought the steeped mixture up to a simmer and then added all the extract, stirring slowly. Waited a minute or two and then added most (but not all) of the hops. I tried to hold back about 10% (very unscientific). This was my favorite part. Hops smell so good to me.
6) I brought the mixture back to a boil (no lid now). Couldn't get a real rapid boil, but some googling around consoled me that most think "a boil is a boil" i.e. 212 degrees, whether it is rolling or not. I boiled for a good 35-40 minutes. Early on, it was real foamy, and I went to the internet to see if I was supposed to stir it. I found that this was the "hot break" and that some stir, and some don't. By the time I looked back at the pot, the foam was much lessened. I stirred it very occasionally throughout.
7) After 30 mins, I was dismayed that it wasn't boiling better, so I centered the pot over 1 burner and added the cookie sheet lid, leaving a decent vent area (having read about the sulphur+ fumes that need to escape, in some's opinion.) I left it another 10 mins or so, while I harvested ice chunks from my backyard into a bucket.
8) After a few minutes two let the kettle cool slightly, I transfered it to the sink into a cold half bath of water.
9) I then added the ice chunks around the outside:
2542-wortchilling.jpg


It was down to 120 degrees after about 10 minutes, down to 90 after 15, and down into the 60s after 20. I was surprised how quickly it chilled. I gently added the yeast somewhere slightly north of 60 degrees. Is that too cold?

10) Before adding the yeast, I attempted to use the hydrometer. I didn't have a thief, so I was trying to use a sanitized glass water vase. The hydrometer did not float. I stupidly poured the wort back in (I say stupid because I know from other threads that you are not supposed to do this. I do not know why, however...once I read that I started to get upset and then remember to "Relax....etc"). I then (probably stupidly?) tried to take a reading in the kettle itself with the hydrometer. Again, it did not float. Should I be worried about this? I then proceeded to add the yeast, as discussed.

11) I kept resanitizing everything in the bath bin I had after each use (spoon, thermometer, hyrdometer). Is that appropriate? I noticed that after the first time I used the thermometer, it left a little oil slick in the wort. You can see it in the "northern" part of this photo:

2541-oilywort.jpg


Is that normal? I did my best not to "Fear the Foam".

12) With the yeast added and the wort chilled, I sanitized my 5 gallon carboy with a pitcher or two of the liquid from my bath. Wasn't sure if you are supposed to mix up new Starsan for this, but it still looked foamy and effective to my completely untrained eye, so I went with it. I swirled it around a lot, the motion was kind of like jumping rope, and it got everything nice and wet and foamy. I dumped out as much excess foam as I could, but didn't go crazy.

13) I then removed the kettle from the sink, and put the carboy in there, using the height advantage to help my kerosene siphon. It worked better than I imagined. Sidenote is that my beer kit came with a 6.8 gallon bucket that is ambiguously both a fermenting bucket and a bottling bucket. Therefore, I was lucky that I grabbed the siphon while in Walmart, because the kit didn't come with one, I think presuming that the bucket would be used as the primary fermenter. Here is the kerosene siphon at work:

2543-wort-carboy-siphon.jpg


Another sidenote. It didn't look to my naked eye that I had burned off that much liquid. Maybe a half gallon. However, to repeat, I probably need to learn more from this forum about measuring/fill lines on both the kettle and the carboy. Given that I had started with a 5 gallon batch and only had a 5 gallon carboy, I didn't want to over fill the carboy because I didn't have the parts for a blow tub/bucket set up, so I just left it. I also didn't have purified/bottled/boiled water ready at that second, and was a little lazy. In any event, I just went with it as it was.

14) My empty kettle had some remnants at the bottom. I assume that is normal:

2544-kettleremnants.jpg


15) With the carboy full, I put the stopper and Airlock in as tight as I could, and brought it downstairs to the colder corner of my basement. I don't have a thermometer down there (though I plan to change that ASAP), but I did get a fermometer with my kit, so I slapped that on too. Here she is resting comfortably (apologize for orientation). With that as a 5 gallon carboy, anyone want to venture to guess how much is in there? Again, I am not sure where the 5 gallon fill line would be on a 5 gallon carboy...all the way to the top? the neck? one of the rungs?:

2545-carboyfull.jpg


16) This morning I checked the temp on the fermometer and it was hard to read. Best I can tell is it was 58-60. Is that too cold? I moved it more into the middle of my basement for fear that that was slightly too cold. Is moving it bad at this point? No action in Airlock yet. I repeated myself to "Relax, etc..."

So, that is my experience to this point. I am going to check it this afternoon, and then I am gone for a long weekend (back Sunday night). I hope I get to see some Airlock action at the backend.

Any comments are appreciated, but I am also writing this as a way to document everything for myself.
 
Congrats on the first brew!

As far as fermentation temperature goes, you should be able to look up the ideal range for the type of yeast that you used. Getting it into the right range is definitely important, but maintaining a constant temperature throughout the fermentation is even more important. That being said, I've had batches were the temp got away from me for one reason or another and they turned out fine. Like you said, RDWHAHB!

It seems from your list of steps that you pitched your yeast before you siphoned into your carboy - is that right? I've always flipped that - siphoned first into the carboy and then pitched the yeast. And normally I shake the ever-living crap out of the wort in the carboy to build up a little O2 before pitching the yeast. I've always heard that it's best not to add O2 after you've pitched your yeast, but I'm sure your batch will turn out fine.

I would definitely mark some lines on your equipment to get an idea of how much liquid you're boiling off in the future. It helps if you're using a recipe that's been calibrated to 5 gal. to know that you've actually got 5 gal. in the carboy.

Last thing, it's a little concerning that you couldn't get a hydrometer reading because it wouldn't float. Either you were trying to take a measurement in too shallow of a container or your hydrometer is broken. If it's the latter, you may want to get a new one before too long because that's the only way you can reliably tell if your fermentation is done (i.e. having the same gravity reading over a few days). Regardless, don't bottle too early! Let the yeast do its thing and don't rush the process going on inside the carboy.
 
Everything looks great Jay. A few pointers.

1) You will want to eventually get an autosiphon or racking can that is food grade. You will also be able to use this to extract for gravity readings.

2) I would try to get that carboy a bit warmer. Moving is not bad, just don't get in a habit especially after fermentation as you will want everything to settle.

3) Once fermentation starts your temperature will automatically go up.

4) In the future you will want to get into the habit of aerating your wort. You want to add oxygen to the wort by shaking things up a bit BEFORE you pitch your yeast.

5) Go Alpinezone. ;)

6) You can get a nice stick, add water to your pot in half gallon increments and mark it to gauge volume.
 
RDWHAHB...

Wow That's quite a write up. :) to bad that I can't see the pictures, I'm unsure if it is me or the post.

The brew pot will sit on 2 burners?? WAY COOL

For the 'is it right to keep sanatizing?' question.. yes. I personally keep some sanatizer around to redip stuff in, including my hands.

The non floating hydrometer - was the wort not deep enough? There is a tester tube sold for this, or you might have a really tall (and narrow) glass you can use. One reason to not pour the wort back into the kettle after testing the gravity is infection from your testing vessel. Another is after fermentation has finished, each time you pour and mix you risk introducing lots of oxygen. Lastly, if you pour it all back, how do you taste it? I'm a big beleiver in trusting the senses on the beer and getting to know what wort, green, and finished beer all taste like. That way you can tell when things are off.

Speaking of oxygen - in step 11 to 12 or about there, did you aereate the wort? yeast need oxygen to get started but once fermented it only spoils beer.

Temps as low as 60 are ok, some lager yeasts can go down to 50 I think. a few things can help here that are easy - don't put it on the cement floor (if it is). I strongly recomend putting a container of unbottled/unkegged beer on a table or table top height and leaving it there until you rack to the next container. This way when you rack you don't stir up the sediment when you lift it. Speaking of sediment, yeah the hot and cold break will leave stuff behind in the kettle unless you are like me and just pour all of it into the fermentor.

From waht others have said, you might prefer a blow off tube to an airlock, although at 60F, the fermentation might be slow enough that it won't be a problem. There are other suggestions for keeping your beer warm which include insulating it - natural fermentation will heat it a couple of degrees, putting a heat belt on it or using an incandecent light bulb as a heat source and put in real close to the carboy.

Everything else sounds about right from what you wrote. My comments are only suggestions. Oh I will say one thing about beingat 60F... if the ferment seems slow, you can heat things up and get it going, but at 75F or so you get off flavors. So better to low to start than to high :)
 
I didn't read if you were using a grain bag to steep your grains. If not, did you strain out the spent grains before you begain your boil?
 
Thanks for the input everyone...

I am happy to report slow and steady action in the Airlock and a nice little layer of foam on the top of the liquid in the carboy, both of which were not occurring this morning. So I think we have fermentation. Looks like I got the temp up to 60-62 by moving the carboy.

For the future, I will certainly aerate the wort before pitching the yeast. Missed that for sure.

Not sure what to make of the hydrometer issue. Will need to look into that...
 
you will love the hobby after your first glass. I know I did. get your self a wine thief for taking samples. it makes it a lot easier on your self. Also I suggest a hydrometer test tube, or in a pinch you can use the sheath/container that it is normally packaged in. The reasoning for not returning the sample to the wort is that it is just one more way to possibly infect your beer. A auto siphon is another thing that is on my must have list, I would ditch what you have and get one. spending a little here and there for things not only makes it easier on your self it also saves time and potentially your finished product will be improved. IMHO a lid is important when you are chilling. it does not have to be sealed just covered so nothing is able to land in it. another tip rinse everything before putting it back into the star san, but it is good practice to keep the utensils in the sanitizer. You can reuse star san as long as you keep it covered when stored, I replace it after a month or 3 to 4 brews
 
5) Brought the steeped mixture up to a simmer and then added all the extract, stirring slowly. Waited a minute or two and then added most (but not all) of the hops. I tried to hold back about 10% (very unscientific). This was my favorite part. Hops smell so good to me.

Did you follow your recipe on when to add your hops?

Most recipe's call for an addition of bittering hops at the beginning and then (depending on the type of beer) a staggered succession of hop additions throughout the boil, the last being your primary aroma hops.

Maybe I am reading it wrong but if you added all but 10% of your hop bill right at the beginning your beer may end being a lot more bitter than you had hoped...
 
Did you follow your recipe on when to add your hops?

Most recipe's call for an addition of bittering hops at the beginning and then (depending on the type of beer) a staggered succession of hop additions throughout the boil, the last being your primary aroma hops.

Maybe I am reading it wrong but if you added all but 10% of your hop bill right at the beginning your beer may end being a lot more bitter than you had hoped...

Yup, I followed the directions (they were not very detailed). They instructed to mix in the powder extract, the liquid extract, and the hops all at the same time (basically), stirring as you go. I will hunt for the pamphlet to quote them exactly.
 
Jay...do you recall the extract being pre-hopped? That would change the whole hopping schedule around. What brand kit was it?
 
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