First lager, tastes bitter

[Crack]

I tried my 1st lager, a pacifico clone. I added hops in a spice ball at flame out & when I went to remove it it came open & most of the hops fell into the wort. I fermented for 7 days then dropped the temp by 5° a day until around 33 degrees & lagered for 6 weeks. I did notice some times my airlock lock would run backwards for a minute but then would start bubbling again. After 6 weeks I transferred to secondary to do diacetyl rest & taste tested it at that time. It has a strong, bitter after taste that's hard to explain. Doesn't taste like cardboard or paper like I've read oxidized beer taste like. Doesn't have much aroma at all, doesn't stink but doesn't smell real strong like beer either. I'm supposed to be bottling this weekend but trying to decide whether I should pour it out & start over. Any help is appreciated

 

[FloppyKnockers]

A few thoughts come up for me.
1) There really isn't a need to do secondary.
2) D-rest comes before the lagering phase. You'll want to do primary fermentation, raise the temp to clear up any diacetyl, then enter the lagering phase.
3) Just my experience, but no matter how long I lager for, a week in the keg is that final oomph to let the flavor settle and get good.
4) The airlock running backwards is suck-back. The CO2 produced is now dissolving into solution back into the beer. The airlock running backwards is make-up air. Generally unwanted, but that's a different thread.

At the end of the day I think you'll be just fine. I would bottle and condition like you were planning. Throw a few in the fridge after a few weeks and I think you'll be surprised on how good it is.

 

[Crack]

The recipe I found said to do it like that so I did, read up on lagering more since then & most of it says what you suggested. Thanks for your help, hopefully it'll turn out good

 

[Jag75]

Did you build up your water profile ?

Floopyknockers is correct. What yeast was used ? Did you make a starter and aerate if liquid yeast was used .

I start ramping up the temp daily once fermentation is 75% complete. Once the temp is in mid to high 60's hold for a few days for a rest .

Then drop your temp to lager . To eliminate suck back make sure your fv has positive pressure , or the Ole co2 in a balloon trick . I just keep a few psi on it .

 

[Crack]

Wyeast 1056 I believe, like I said it was my 1st brew I've tried & they didn't have the wlp940 Mexican lager & the guy at the beer supply store said that would work. In the recipe the guy just used distilled water & didn't add anything so that's what I did as well.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

Wyeast 1056 I believe, like I said it was my 1st brew I've tried & they didn't have the wlp940 Mexican lager & the guy at the beer supply store said that would work. In the recipe the guy just used distilled water & didn't add anything so that's what I did as well.

You sure about the 1056? That's an ale yeast. Not saying it wouldn't make a beer, but it definitely won't make a Pacifico clone. Granted, Mexican lager yeast is hard to come by - at least where I am, but an ale yeast is hardly a substitute for a lager yeast.

At the end of the day, you will have beer. With the information you provided, the beer sounds like it will be tasty. I wouldn't give up on it this early in the game.

EDIT: Another question... Did you take gravity readings? If you tried to ferment an ale at lager temps, it might not have finished fermenting.

 

[Crack]

I made an ale for my 2nd batch & it actually turned out pretty good & strong with 6.3 abv so that's probably what yeast I used for that. It was a little hoppy from dry hopping but toned down after a couple sips. It called for leaf hops but i couldn't get any so used pellets & didn't realize the ratio between the two until a lil research after the fact, but was very drinkable & enjoyed them on the golf course for a buddy's birthday. Saflager w34/70is what I used for the lager

 

[Crack]

I used a refractometer, original brix was 9.5 & final was 4

 

[FloppyKnockers]

I used a refractometer, original brix was 9.5 & final was 4

Okay, that's good. It sounds like it finished. 34/70 is a very forgiving yeast. I feel like a broken record, but I think it'll condition and taste just fine.

 

[Crack]

I hope so, been waiting awhile for it, was looking forward do drinking it when football season kicks off. Gonna let it bottle condition til then. The ale I tasted when I transferred to secondary & it was good (actually like it better than after the dry hops) so I checked the lager & didn't get the same effect. Maybe the bottle conditioning will work. Just to make sure I'm clear on that part I should let it carbonate at a warmer temperature for about 3 weeks before I put it in the fridge correct?

 

[FloppyKnockers]

Just to make sure I'm clear on that part I should let it carbonate at a warmer temperature for about 3 weeks before I put it in the fridge correct?

Room temp is just fine. Especially with lager yeasts. they do better when it's a bit cooler. low 60's should be your sweet-spot with 34/70. A little warmer will be fine too.

 

[Crack]

Just an update, I bottled & let the beer sit for 3 weeks to carbonate then chilled it. Was gonna wait til football kicked off but had to try one this weekend. It's not great but it is drinkable, had mixed results letting the family taste it

 

[jdauria]

Using Wyeast 1056, you really have more off a blonde ale than a lager, but great clarity. Using distilled water alone is like cooking a steak without seasoning it first. There are no minerals in distilled water and you really need certain ones during mash (calcium, sodium, sulfate, chloride and even magnesium are the five that beers need, though at different levels depending on style), next time you would be better off just using tap water or half tap half distilled...but that's without knowing your local water report.

 

[Crack]

I used deer park on my 2nd batch, it was an ale & it turned out good so figured it had something to do with the water or possibly the hops that spilled in the wort & sat there the whole time in primary