first brew on 120v kettle

[bluebarnaclebrewing]

Just finished my first brew on my electric keggle. Running 2 1500w elements flat out without a controller and it worked great. I BIAB so once my temps were good unplugged them and then back in for the boil. Worked great for a 5 gallon batch. About 35mins from mash to boil.

Wish I had done this earlier so much easier not lugging my gear up and down the stairs.

Anyone sitting on the fence, I suggest you do it. I was really intimidated by the fancy controllers but I can always upgrade in the future.

 

[Staticsouls]

Nice

 

[ba-brewer]

I was in the same boat about a year ago, but I bought two hot rods and used my existing kettles to test the water. Simple on and off worked just like brewing with propane just a bit slower to get a boil.

I used a harbor freight router controller for while to adjust one element until I build a controller.

 

[Staticsouls]

It definitely doesn't have to be super complex to work very well.

 

[bstacy1974]

Awesome. Welcome to the E side. I run 2-2000 watt elements in my kettle. It's super easy to set up a controller to run both at the same time. Another $100 or less and you can make your brew days even easier!

 

[bluebarnaclebrewing]

are you doing BIAB? just wondering if you use a pump

 

[ihavenonickname]

Sounds great! Definitely encouraging, I’m looking to take the plunge.

But I would have guessed it would be a little faster to boil with TWO elements

 

[bluebarnaclebrewing]

They're only 1500w and my kettle isn't insulted

 

[Staticsouls]

are you doing BIAB? just wondering if you use a pump

I made a 3 vessel herms starting out just the way have. I started with the boil kettle, and did biab, but my obsession for tinkering and building brought me, to make an hlt with two elements. Later I installed a coil for a heat exchanger to make a herms type system. I call it my ghetto herms. For two years I ran this with one pump and no controller. I had set up all 3 vessels in a 3 teir gravity configuration, so i only my required my pump for mash recirculation. I have since added a 2nd dc pump for hlt circulation, and an inkbird pid to regulate my hlt temps. My system can make 12 gallon batches for 10 gallons into kegs, but I also still biab for some small batches if I am pressed for time. I only have access to 110v so I couldn't get any crazier.

 

[ba-brewer]

I made a 3 vessel herms starting out just the way have. I started with the boil kettle, and did biab, but my obsession for tinkering and building brought me, to make an hlt with two elements.

How do you have your two element oriented?

With the hotrods I can orient them so they are parallel and sort of centered/equally space inside the kettle. I would like to make a kettle with two fixed elements in that configuration because it has been working so far, but not sure if it is really necessary.

 

[Staticsouls]

How do you have your two element oriented?

With the hotrods I can orient them so they are parallel and sort of centered/equally space inside the kettle. I would like to make a kettle with two fixed elements in that configuration because it has been working so far, but not sure if it is really necessary.

So when I first made my boil kettle I had them opposite of each other kinda like you mentioned. I later rebuilt to have them both on one side. I staggered them in height just enough so when they crossed they don't touch. I did this to make more room for chillers. I think either orientation will work as long as the elements are submerged.

 

[ba-brewer]

So when I first made my boil kettle I had them opposite of each other kinda like you mentioned. I later rebuilt to have them both on one side. I staggered them in height just enough so when they crossed they don't touch. I did this to make more room for chillers. I think either orientation will work as long as the elements are submerged.

I have them both on the same side now and because the assembly is submerged I can keep them from touching and be at the same depth.

Did you notice any difference in the boil or how the wort circulated in your latest configuration?

 

[Staticsouls]

I have them both on the same side now and because the assembly is submerged I can keep them from touching and be at the same depth.

Did you notice any difference in the boil or how the wort circulated in your latest configuration?

I have started whirlpool/hop stands and I don't think either config would have prevented the trub cone to form. I have never had scorching issues running them plug in full power either. I started with cheap camco elements and an anode, but would honestly recommend any other all stainless elements.

 

[ba-brewer]

@Staticsouls thanks for the information

 

[wilserbrewer]

It doesn’t matter if electric elements touch one another, outside of the element should be grounded.

Two 120v elements / no controller has worked well for me for almost ten years, so well I have never gotten around to making improvements. Best to have a larger kettle if boiling near the rim.

Two 1500w elements for 5 gallon batches and two 2000w elements for 10 gallon batches is a pretty good match.

I started e brewing long before there was much info, so I just used the standard $10 high watt density elements and haven’t bothered to change.

Did scorch one batch years ago, but I attribute that to pausing the boil for a couple hours and allowing all the trub to settle down on the elements.

Most people think e-brewing is extremely costly, that’s due to all the tricked out rigs you see posted, it actually can be very inexpensive.