First AG (BIAB): OG Question

[TarVolon]

Just pitched yeast for my first AG, for which I used DeathBrewer's BIAB method and Revvy's Kentucky Common recipe. I had no idea what efficiency to expect, so I scaled the recipe for 68% efficiency (because all the numbers came out even when I used 68%). If I hit my numbers correctly, the OG would've been 1.046.

My pre-boil wort gravity was 1.048, so I'm pretty sure I estimated my efficiency incorrectly. But it looks like I was more efficient than expected, so woo! Lost about a gallon in the boil (started with just over 6, finished with just over 5) and had a final gravity of 1.056.

However, my hydrometer sample was super, super hazy. Like hazy enough that stuff was collecting at the bottom of the hydrometer. So, a few related questions:

1. Is the gunk in the wort giving me a false high hydrometer reading, or is 1.056 the legit OG? Hopefully my efficiency is just really good and it's not just a problem with all the gunk.

2. Either way, is it something I should be worried about, or will it all fall out in the fermenter? If I should be worried, I would presume this means I should get a less fine crush next time.

3. I swamp chilled as usual, but since this was my first full boil, it took longer than usual (a little over an hour) to drop from boiling to 65 degrees. There was no precipitate at the bottom of the pot like there usually is. Is this part of the problem? Do I need to break down and buy a wort chiller?

 

[barneygumble]

OK, where to start...I would not be too concerned about efficiency for your first batch or two of BIAB. As long as no gunk was clinging to your hydrometer, your reading should be close. I am guessing that indeed you got fines from the crush. Next time tell them you are doing a biab, and want a double crush. They will know what to do. A cold break usually precipitates this out, especially with irish moss or whirlflok. Now that you are AG, water pH can cause haze and affect efficiency. What did you use for water? Is Deathbrewer's method a no sparge, full volume mash? As far as a chiller, yes you should. I think NB has a clearence sale on them? In the meantime, you could either boil and freeze some water in baggies or bottles. Make sure they are sanitized and use them as ice blocks inside the brew kettle. (you boil the water in case the bottle leaks. better weaker beer than spoiled beer). That is a good short term method to not miss a brew day while waiting for a chiller to arrive.

 

[JimTheHick]

Just pitched yeast for my first AG, for which I used DeathBrewer's BIAB method and Revvy's Kentucky Common recipe. I had no idea what efficiency to expect, so I scaled the recipe for 68% efficiency (because all the numbers came out even when I used 68%). If I hit my numbers correctly, the OG would've been 1.046.

My pre-boil wort gravity was 1.048, so I'm pretty sure I estimated my efficiency incorrectly. But it looks like I was more efficient than expected, so woo! Lost about a gallon in the boil (started with just over 6, finished with just over 5) and had a final gravity of 1.056.

However, my hydrometer sample was super, super hazy. Like hazy enough that stuff was collecting at the bottom of the hydrometer. So, a few related questions:

1. Is the gunk in the wort giving me a false high hydrometer reading, or is 1.056 the legit OG? Hopefully my efficiency is just really good and it's not just a problem with all the gunk.

2. Either way, is it something I should be worried about, or will it all fall out in the fermenter? If I should be worried, I would presume this means I should get a less fine crush next time.

3. I swamp chilled as usual, but since this was my first full boil, it took longer than usual (a little over an hour) to drop from boiling to 65 degrees. There was no precipitate at the bottom of the pot like there usually is. Is this part of the problem? Do I need to break down and buy a wort chiller?

I'm a fellow BIABer, sounds like our setups are similar.

1. Gunk- yes there is always gunk in the hydro readings. I've gone to using the Pre-boil SG, say its 1.050 in 6 gallons (50 points x 6 gallons = 300 points; 300 points in 5 gallons going into the fermentor= 1.060 beer OG). Don't waste your wort with another reading post-boil. Unless you are really anal about OG or have significant late sugar addition or something.

2. With cold cooling or extended secondary I have gotten crystal clear beers despite the gunk. Do not get a coarse crush. Double-crush. And wet the bag a bit before you dump in the crushed grains. The water traps the finest starch particles further increasing efficiency.

3. If you can cool wort in an hour I think that is great. I bought a wort chiller after 20 batches and it is faster but I don't think it's necessary for good or clear beer. I would routinely cool my beers in 45-75 minutes and they all tasted nice. If anything the water bath method replicates the commercial whirlpool giving your hops/wort that extra time at higher temps.

Wow- I wrote a lot. Hope it's useful to you. Enjoy BIAB. I love it.

 

[TarVolon]

I did get a double crush (assuming this means run it through the crusher twice). I was worried that this was too fine, but I guess it's not a big deal.

For water, I used my tap water with 1.3 grams of chalk and .6 grams of CaCl(2). My city water has 4 ppm calcium and a sulfate to chloride ratio of 4:1, so I thought I needed to boost calcium and chloride. It also has almost no magnesium, but I didn't fix that because everything I've seen focuses on calcium, total alkalinity, and sulfate to chloride ratio. Oh, and the setup was a 3.5 gallon mash and a 3.5 gallon sparge. Ended up with with just over 6 gallons in the brewpot, just over 5 after the boil, and just under 5 in the fermenter.

I wasn't so much worried about efficiency as just trying to figure out what to expect. If my calculations (and readings) are correct, my efficiency was 85%.

Glad to hear the stuff will settle out. I figured it probably would. I've never used Irish moss or anything, so maybe that would help. When I was doing partial boils, I'd have a precipitate stuck to the bottom of the pot. This time I had a lot of gunk settled at the bottom, but it wasn't the hard-packed precipitate like last time. Maybe a wort chiller will be in order at some point, but if I can make good beer with an ice bath that takes an hour to cool, I'll probably do that at least for a while.

Thanks to both y'all. I really loved the BIAB process, because it wasn't particularly difficult or complicated and the smell of grain mashing is about 1000x more pleasant than what I was getting out of a can. And, you know, creative freedom whatever. I was just hoping this was expected and I hadn't messed something up somehow.