Finally...beginning my electric brewery

[JoshAZ]

I have started my list and checking it 1000 times.

I have a spikebrewing pot and am doing extract brews for now. Looking to do full boil 5 gal batches.

Here is my list let me know if I have missed something. I want to start basic but leave room to upgrade if or when I go all grain.

 

[nspaldi0]

Crappy phone pictures. Sorry don't have a camera but here is an update to the stand. Added some trim and the cart handle. Going to add a cradle system for the mash tub. Should help with the weight. Then I have to figure out how to attach the control panel. I don't know if it would add too much weight on one side. Any thought? After that the. Stain and begin control panel work! Still a long way to go.

 

[kpr121]

Crappy phone pictures. Sorry don't have a camera but here is an update to the stand. Added some trim and the cart handle. Going to add a cradle system for the mash tub. Should help with the weight. Then I have to figure out how to attach the control panel. I don't know if it would add too much weight on one side. Any thought? After that the. Stain and begin control panel work! Still a long way to go.

Looking good. Why not attach the control panel to the right side of the stand with a constructed arm or an adjustable TV mount?

 

[nspaldi0]

I'm thinking about using a 2x4 on a bracket that I could swing out to the right. I would have it swing back to the front for storage. I'm just not sure how much the finished control panel will weigh. I might need to finish the control panel then work on mounting it.

 

[NewBrewB]

I'm thinking about using a 2x4 on a bracket that I could swing out to the right. I would have it swing back to the front for storage. I'm just not sure how much the finished control panel will weigh. I might need to finish the control panel then work on mounting it.

I'm taking my unfinished control panel to work today for show-and-tell so I'll go ahead and weigh it.... let's see...

It weighs 29 lbs with about 1/2 of the 'guts' installed and no wiring... I'm guessing that will add an extra 10 lbs or so. I'd say, if your mounting location can handle 50 lbs of weight, that should allow some leeway for pushing/pulling when you are attaching cables, etc.

Edit: They did send me the larger 20 x 20 x 8 enclosure so that could contribute to the weight.

 

[iijakii]

My panel is nowhere near 30 lbs. It's heavy, but more like 15 if I recall correctly. I don't have a full-size Kal clone though. Mines 12 x 12 x 8 with about half the goodies as his.

Protip: If you're going to use a TV wall mount make sure you install the mounting bracket on the back before you wire. I had to undo all of my wiring to the receptacles and dist. blocks so I could take out the backplate and rotate the mounting plate. I put it in freakin' vertically instead of horizontally.

 

[nspaldi0]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q4CW4G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Might order this element if they don't have it at the local HD. Can't fit the ripple element in my BK I don't believe. I only have the 36 quart bayou kettle.

 

[nspaldi0]

Got the element from HD, solder the locknut and doing a leak test now. Have to say this was by far my worst soldering job yet. I've done many fittings between my propane rig and this system but never done the locknut. As long as it's leak free, I don't care since it will be out of sight.

 

[nspaldi0]

Leak test was successful. I ordered the panel and 3 way ball valves yesterday. Man this little system is becoming expensive!

 

[kpr121]

Leak test was successful. I ordered the panel and 3 way ball valves yesterday. Man this little system is becoming expensive!

Nice! Yea it def all adds up fast!

 

[bagpiperjosh]

Nice! Yea it def all adds up fast!

agreed!

 

[nspaldi0]

I haven't updated this thread in a while. I have everything hard plumbed. I still have quite a bit of work to do. Here's some phone pictures I snapped today.

 

[nspaldi0]

Anyone purchased this estop from Auberins? I assumed it would work with PJ's estop design.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=259

 

[P-J]

Anyone purchased this estop from Auberins? I assumed it would work with PJ's estop design.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=259

It will work very well. Just use the N/O contact and then keep in mind that once pressed and activated - you must twist it to deactivate it before resetting the GFCI breaker.

My current diagrams use it in the illustrated wiring. I think it is a great switch (plus it is 'Red').

P-J

 

[nspaldi0]

Anyone know what size hole to drill in the panel for the deluxe Auberins RTD probe?

 

[nspaldi0]

Anyone? I'm going to send my panel to a cutter this week. Any help on the above question is greatly appreciated.

 

[nspaldi0]

I completed a wet run tonight. Well, I've encountered a pin hole in my mash tun - so disappointing. I tried to solder it but was unsuccessful. I am going to order a 1/2 coupling and plug it I guess.

Heres a picture of the final spot for the new brewery. I decided to mount the panel on the wall.

 

[iijakii]

Anyone know what size hole to drill in the panel for the deluxe Auberins RTD probe?

This one? http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...id=118&zenid=abd6008ecfa47ba67bd26a863c9464a3

There are dimensions listed right there on that page. It's an incredibly small room for error, though, so do it small and bore it out if need be in my opinion.

I'd advise you to go for an XLR panel mount connector instead of that one if you haven't already bought it, though. Flush, easier to install too.

 

[nspaldi0]

Long time without posting on this. Finally have it up and running but having issues with heating element. I think I may have a bad contactor. With a multimeter, I am reading 120 from the push button neutral to hot. However, it is as if the contactor isn't closing because I don't get any reading across contactor to the element plug. Any thoughts? Should I order a new contactor? Wondering if home depot would have one. Really wanted to brew this weekend.

 

[nspaldi0]

Input side of contactor is reading 240V but nothing's reading on the output side to the element. Faulty contactor?

 

[nspaldi0]

Here's a photo of the wiring. Again, power is coming in from switch to contactor but the two hots going to the element outlet aren't reading anything. I don't hear the "klunk" when the element switch is pushed.

 

[AllanMar]

From your wire color choices to the contactor coil (white/black) it looks like your only supplying it 120V? You posted in your list above that you ordered a 240V coil contactor?

 

[nspaldi0]

I wired according to PJ's diagram. Coming into the coil are hot and neutral from the push button. 240 comes in via main power and off SSR.

 

[AllanMar]

Yea, but what contactor did you buy? (post the link). PJ's diagram is for a 120V coil contactor.

You may want to read this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/contactor-rumbling-noise-393851/

If you did buy the 240V coil, replace the neutral (white) wire from the contactor coil with a wire from the other leg (red) and it should work. You can read the debate about only switching one leg in the other thread.

 

[nspaldi0]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=130

Here's the one I purchased.

 

[AllanMar]

Double check the sticker on the side says it is a 120V coil. If it is take a multi-meter set to resistance and check across the coil connections (disconnected).

EDIT: Should have said check you have 120V across the coil energized as well. If not, check resistance.

 

[nspaldi0]

Here's the diagram I used as well.

 

[nspaldi0]

I have 120V across the coil from the white neutral line from push button to black hot from push button. Sorry, I hope my explanations are ok. I'm not the most electrical savvy person.

 

[nspaldi0]

Also, I confirmed on side of contactor that it is a 120V coil.

 

[AllanMar]

Disconnect power to the panel disconnect the leads from the terminals on the contactor (white/black wire) set your multimeter to resistance (ohms) and measure on the contactor where the white/black connected (this is across the coil)

 

[nspaldi0]

I'm getting a reading of 1 across the coil. All power is disconnected by the way. If I take neutral and hot connections and put together and read with multimeter, 0 is read.

 

[nspaldi0]

If I put connections back on and measure across coil, I have a reading of 1.

 

[AllanMar]

I'm guessing your multimeter is not auto-ranging. A reading of 1 usually means you need to try a higher range setting. If your not sure how, post a pic of your meter.

Also, just want to confirm, when you took the voltage readings these were taken directly on the contactor? (ie not at the switch or terminal strip?)

 

[nspaldi0]

Voltages were taken directly at contactor (white and black) read 120V. Are you thinking I have wired incorrectly or bad contactor?

 

[AllanMar]

If you've got 120V at the contactor then it should be wired ok. If you can get a proper resistance reading thats usually a decent indication if the contactor is bad. Usually (not always) the coil will be high resistance on a U/S contactor. A good contactor will likely be around 200-300ohms

 

[nspaldi0]

Here's a shot of reading resistance. Multimeter set at 200K.

 

[nspaldi0]

And as a side note, everything else works great. PID, Pump and stir motor all function as they should. Just having issues with element.

 

[AllanMar]

Looks like that contactor is bad then.

Just to be safe, measure on the other two metal tabs of the contactor. Just in the very rare case you have a bad crimp on your connectors.

 

[nspaldi0]

Same reading. Bummer. Was hoping to brew this weekend but I'll just order a new contactor and see if that helps. I really appreciate your assistance. Cheers!

 

[AllanMar]

Sometimes you can find them locally. Look for places that sell HVAC parts (even some of the big box stores). Ask for a "120V coil Definite Purpose contactor" 30A+