Feel stuck and need advice

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

michaelpeach76

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2011
Messages
81
Reaction score
0
I've become so used to using (for my all grain recipes) American 2 row - which I know is a good base grain - but every recipe I put together begins with 7 - 9 lbs of American 2 row. I'd like to know what are all the best grains to use for base grains? I know it depends on what type of beer you're making, but is there any protocol to choosing a good base grain for a certain type of brew? Just want to know so I can broaden my horizon.
 
You could try Pilsner, ESB, pale....

For that matter alot of specality grains like Vienna or Munich can be used in pretty high quantity. So instead of using 9lbs of all american 2 row. Use 4lbs and then supplement the other 5 lbs with a different light malt that has high diastic conversion.

Goto your LHBS and eat a few of the different raw grains. They all have distinct flavors.
 
Any base malt really can be used to make any style by adjusting the specialty malts. Mt. Shasta Brewing for example uses pilsner malt to make all of their beers from lagers to IPA's. If I were you I'd just start experimenting. Maris Otter is a fantastic base malt that is a bit darker than pilsner or standard 2-row. It will make a fantastic beer on it's own or by combining with specialty malts. My standard malt that I buy 55 lb sacks of is Rahr 2-row, it's sort of in between Maris Otter and standard 2-row, it's also what DFH uses. Base malts can also be combined, you could combine Maris Otter with your standard two row to get very close to Rahr if you wanted. Pilsner is a very nice malt in that it is very light so you really gain a lot of control, however you have to do a 90 minute boil with it. Don't forget about wheat and Rye as well. Just start buying different malts and experimenting. Many of the supplier websites have good descriptions as well.
 
Pilsner is a very nice malt in that it is very light so you really gain a lot of control, however you have to do a 90 minute boil with it.

I haven't used Pilsner before. Out of sheer curiosity, what happen if you did a 60 minute boil as opposed to 90 minutes? Or rather, why do the extra 30 minutes?
 
You could try Pilsner, ESB, pale....

For that matter alot of specality grains like Vienna or Munich can be used in pretty high quantity. So instead of using 9lbs of all american 2 row. Use 4lbs and then supplement the other 5 lbs with a different light malt that has high diastic conversion.

Goto your LHBS and eat a few of the different raw grains. They all have distinct flavors.

Yeah good point, don't forget about Vienna and Munich. Also, taste the grains raw if you can. You can get a pretty good sense by just chewing on the raw grains.
 
Boil pilsner for 90 minutes to drive off the DNS it produces. Depending on style, other options are wheat, marris otter, munich and pale ale malts.
 
Yup pils has a higher DMS (dimethyl sulfide) content which takes longer to boil off. The other base malts have it as well but not as much. DMS is the canned corn or cooked cabbage flavor you get from American mass produced lagers. IMO not tasty.
 
Otter, wheat, pilsner. I have heard many people say the true German malts make a noticeable difference. I've just started the "experimental" stage myself, so I'll keep an eye on this thread also:mug:
 
Also, always check the brand. 2-row from one maltster may be very different from 2-row from another.
 
I really like golden promise. It's like maris otter.

Also, german munich is awesome in a decoction mash
 
Back
Top