One thing to be wary of is the airlock bubbling as a sign of fermentation. When I used mine for the first time I thought things weren't fermenting but it turned out that I just didn't have a good seal between the screw on lid and the body of the fermentor. Consequently, the CO2 would go out the leak rather than the airlock, so no bubbles. When I opened it up to check it, there was a nice thick krausen on top of the wort and it was going along nicely.
FastFerment conical fermenter??????
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Well last night i replaced that 3 piece airlock (hate those) for the one piece. This morning the liquid was pushed down in the airlock and krauzen was starting to form. I have been doing this long enough to know that 24 plus hours of not starting to ferment is not a worry but I changed so much this past brew day, new fermenter, made a water profile, fermenting cold. Looks all good now! Starting to ferment at 60f
I'm using Safale S-04, should be more then in the temp range.
Fermentation range = 53.6 to 77 deg
Ideal range = 59 to 68 deg
Will do! Plan is to take the "box" off after a few days and let it warm up. Have to see how it actually pans out.
Yup, I also have had success with Safale S04 at the bottom end of the range, but as jbb3 said, give it plenty of time.
I also got fooled by the not-so-spectacular-seal on the top of the FF. I've learned to disregard it, even with the silicone gasket seal. I've depended on hydrometer measurements.
I also got fooled by the not-so-spectacular-seal on the top of the FF. I've learned to disregard it, even with the silicone gasket seal. I've depended on hydrometer measurements.
My version for the fastferment stand.
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kaffeenjunkie
Well-Known Member
I purchased another O-ring and stack the two. Even then, the last brew wasn't bubbling until I adjusted the thing. Now I can see it chugging along merrily.
I know checking the SG is the correct way to find when fermentation has stopped. At least now, I have a visiul indication of progress.
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abbysdad2006
Well-Known Member
Hey people, I just got one of these for xmas, can u give me a few bullet points on how to get this ready for br day, like the threads and stuff like that. There us just so much info, thanks.
Hey there abbysdad, There's a lot of posts in this thread that talk about it, but, here's thew basics in a nutshell:
1: Carefully sand the top to make sure it's flat. Use a block of wood and about 150 grit.
2: Carefully clear the mold residue from the top and bottom threads. I used a really sharp Leatherman knife.
3: Wrap the bottom threads in teflon tape - go with the threads.
4: Wrap the Thermowell in teflon tape. Be very careful putting this in - don't tighten to much - it ca strip.
5. I wrapped the ball threads in teflon tape before attaching it to the coupler- not everyone does.
6. The O-ring at the bottom of the union valve is all-important. And it can come off during cleaning. Pay particular attention to this or you'll lose it.
7. The silicone seal for the FF lid isn't always a good seal. Don't count on it. But I have teflon tape on the lid threads, and have found that in conjunction with the silicon gasket, I can get a consistently good seal.
8: I tend to dump the ball after about a week. I've found that there is sediment that sticks to the sides of the FF...for me, banging on it causes an internal landslide that helps with this.
That's the basics I can think of. Please chime in everyone with anything I've forgotten!
1: Carefully sand the top to make sure it's flat. Use a block of wood and about 150 grit.
2: Carefully clear the mold residue from the top and bottom threads. I used a really sharp Leatherman knife.
3: Wrap the bottom threads in teflon tape - go with the threads.
4: Wrap the Thermowell in teflon tape. Be very careful putting this in - don't tighten to much - it ca strip.
5. I wrapped the ball threads in teflon tape before attaching it to the coupler- not everyone does.
6. The O-ring at the bottom of the union valve is all-important. And it can come off during cleaning. Pay particular attention to this or you'll lose it.
7. The silicone seal for the FF lid isn't always a good seal. Don't count on it. But I have teflon tape on the lid threads, and have found that in conjunction with the silicon gasket, I can get a consistently good seal.
8: I tend to dump the ball after about a week. I've found that there is sediment that sticks to the sides of the FF...for me, banging on it causes an internal landslide that helps with this.
That's the basics I can think of. Please chime in everyone with anything I've forgotten!
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kaffeenjunkie
Well-Known Member
I did nothing but wrap threads, with the supplied Teflon tape, at the thermal well and bottom ball valve connection. Just make sure you wrap properly. Three to four turns.
I purchased another silicone ring for the top from adventures in home brewing and get a very nice seal.
The o-ring for the ball valve is a bit of a pita, (like all ball valves) be careful.
I only have 6 brews in my conical so, by no means an expert.
I dump the collection ball after 7 days or so. Wash rinse and sanitize.
I do it again at about 10 days and once more a couple days before kegging.
I read that others are worried about the air moving through the fermenting wort when putting the empty ball back on and opening the valve. I don't worry about it. I don't feel the large bubbles are dissipating enough to cause harm on their way through. Also the large bubbles help dislodge trub and send it down to the collection ball.
I also read that some people don't open their collection ball until after their fermentation. I have had no issues with meeting my final OG numbers when leaving the collection ball open during fermentation.
I purchased another silicone ring for the top from adventures in home brewing and get a very nice seal.
The o-ring for the ball valve is a bit of a pita, (like all ball valves) be careful.
I only have 6 brews in my conical so, by no means an expert.
I dump the collection ball after 7 days or so. Wash rinse and sanitize.
I do it again at about 10 days and once more a couple days before kegging.
I read that others are worried about the air moving through the fermenting wort when putting the empty ball back on and opening the valve. I don't worry about it. I don't feel the large bubbles are dissipating enough to cause harm on their way through. Also the large bubbles help dislodge trub and send it down to the collection ball.
I also read that some people don't open their collection ball until after their fermentation. I have had no issues with meeting my final OG numbers when leaving the collection ball open during fermentation.
Make sure to clean everything very well!! lots of manufacturing oils left on the valves. Also fill with water and let it sit for a few days to make sure no leaks, especially from the thermal well. Took me a few try's before it would not leak.
Oh! And I have noticed that i will have to start putting in 5.5g in order to get 5g out.
Oh! And I have noticed that i will have to start putting in 5.5g in order to get 5g out.
MrKelly
Active Member
Don't sand the top until you verify you need to. If the top most surface ring is noticeably smoother than the rest of the fermenter and very flat, then you you have a newer version that won't need it.
abbysdad2006
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it.
Thanks! The more i think about my process i could be up to 4 but 3 ball empties for sure.
1. After putting wort in let everything settle out in ball. Clean and replace.
2. Once primary is done empty ball and replace. Depending on the yeast used this might have to be done twice.
3. After yeast is gone let remaining trub settle out to the bottom before racking to keg.
Found in the fast fastbrewing website the collection ball holds 700 ml of fluid.
So at 3 dumps that's 2100 ml or .55 gallons
Maybe I'm doing it to much though, could probably skip the 2nd yeast dump and just leave the remaining yeast in there with the trub.
The main reason I have number one is for yeast harvesting, I have never done this yet but will be starting. Just thinking that cleaning it is the easier it should be.
MrKelly
Active Member
I do this to make my yeast collection cleaner.
ElmCityWobblyPops
Well-Known Member
I just got one for Xmas as well, and I would have to agree to skip #1.
I would just put the ball on, pitch the yeast, let it ferment completely and then remove and clean the ball. Don't see the point in doing it repeatedly. When I collect yeast from a carboy, I just leave about an inch of beer on it, once the rest has been racked off. Swirl, and dispense into clean, sanitized mason jars, trub and all. Any hop trub and beer is going to protect the yeast. No need to go overboard on the cleaning.
Yeah, you generally do more damage trying to wash yeast. Just pour the slurry out into a sanitized mason jar, leave about a quarter inch of headroom and stick it in the fridge. You can always step it up in a starter if you feel the need, or use it directly in a couple of weeks.
Well, seeing as the top of the fermented is pretty large i think i will sanitize a mesh bag and pour the wort through that first and then skip my first step.
Just checked my final gravity and looks like i have my first stuck fermentation. Its at 1.020 when it should be around 1.014, guess i let it ferment to long at a low temp. Might take my sanitized spoon and stir it up see if i can make it finish, otherwise going to have a slightly sweeter beer i guess.
Just checked my final gravity and looks like i have my first stuck fermentation. Its at 1.020 when it should be around 1.014, guess i let it ferment to long at a low temp. Might take my sanitized spoon and stir it up see if i can make it finish, otherwise going to have a slightly sweeter beer i guess.
Exactly what I do. I use a large funnel and place a sanitized fine mesh bag in the funnel when I drain wort from the BK into the FF.
I will do my first collection ball dump right after primary (5-7 days). Then if needed, another dump after another 3-5 days (but not always needed). Most of the yeast is still in suspension or floating on the top. There will be plenty of yeast to collect in your final collection ball.
Hi Guys, a few questions for you as my brother uses a FF and isn't online (yeah, hard to believe!) and now my other brother got one this Christmas (I use a Chronical- also Christmas present!).
In my experience with yeast harvesting, I found trub clogs an issue (in my Chronical) if much past 7 days on first drop. So like you I've filtered going into the fermenter.
1) Do any of you who filter into FF, pull yeast before 2 weeks? If so, when?
2) Does anyone put CO2 in collection ball before reopening valve for next pull? If so, how do you know when it's filled up enough?
3) Have you bottled directly from FF? I understand you knock on the sides to drop trub a day or so early. Then just put in priming sugar and good to go?
Thanks
In my experience with yeast harvesting, I found trub clogs an issue (in my Chronical) if much past 7 days on first drop. So like you I've filtered going into the fermenter.
1) Do any of you who filter into FF, pull yeast before 2 weeks? If so, when?
2) Does anyone put CO2 in collection ball before reopening valve for next pull? If so, how do you know when it's filled up enough?
3) Have you bottled directly from FF? I understand you knock on the sides to drop trub a day or so early. Then just put in priming sugar and good to go?
Thanks
There is someone not on the internet?!? That is surprising...
Sounds like you guys made out well for Christmas! I've put approximately 15 or so batches through the FF. Below are my methods/experiences.
When draining from the BK into the FF, I use a large funnel with a mesh bag placed in the funnel to provide some filtering of the wort as it enters the FF.
After 5-7 days, if the collection ball is full and there is enough trub so that it is backed up into the conical, I'll change the CB at that time.
You can place a flashlight up against the FF and slide it down from the top of the wort to the bottom of the conical. You'll see a change in how much illumination is seen when/if you hit any backed up trub.
For a CB change at day 5-7, I typically don't fill the CB with CO2. If there is enough trub that requires a second CB change after the 5-7 day change, yes I will fill the CB with CO2. I just give the CB 3 shots of CO2.
Prior to converting to kegging, I would drain from the FF into a bottling bucket. I did not bottle directly from the FF though I've seen some on this thread that have.
Currently I have a house ale in the FF. Care was taken during the mash to ensure clear wort was drained into the BK. That along with the mesh bag filter when draining from the BK into the FF, I have very little trub in the collection ball. This time around, I will not need a CB change at all. I have also had IPA's that required 3 CB changes. And everything in between...
I hope this helps.
Thanks that's all very helpful!
Yeah, 2014 Christmas myself and the first FF brother cashed in, this year the other one joined conical fermentation.
Yes, I too use a mesh bag to keep the yeast pull cleaner. So you keep the CB open the whole time? I thought that most would keep it closed until ready for the first pull? Good suggestion about the flashlight.
I still bottle, so what is 3 shots of CO2? 1 sec each?
I don't understand no CB change. Maybe you mean you just drop off one CB (all yeast)? That would make sense, as I expect you're not kegging all that yeast!
Thanks again, I'll be sure to pass it along to Brother Dinosaur...
Yeah, 2014 Christmas myself and the first FF brother cashed in, this year the other one joined conical fermentation.
Yes, I too use a mesh bag to keep the yeast pull cleaner. So you keep the CB open the whole time? I thought that most would keep it closed until ready for the first pull? Good suggestion about the flashlight.
I still bottle, so what is 3 shots of CO2? 1 sec each?
I don't understand no CB change. Maybe you mean you just drop off one CB (all yeast)? That would make sense, as I expect you're not kegging all that yeast!
Thanks again, I'll be sure to pass it along to Brother Dinosaur...
...So you keep the CB open the whole time? I thought that most would keep it closed until ready for the first pull?
I still bottle, so what is 3 shots of CO2? 1 sec each?
I don't understand no CB change. Maybe you mean you just drop off one CB (all yeast)? That would make sense, as I expect you're not kegging all that yeast!
I start with the valve closed. After pitching my yeast, I wait 12-24 hours until activity starts then open the valve for the remainder. Obviously you have to close the valve for intermediate CB change(s) but it's immediately re-opened after the swap.
About 1-2 seconds for each CO2 shot. I'm not overly concerned with making sure the O2 is completely evacuated. Just an additional precaution during secondary.
By no CB change I mean I don't replace a full CB with an empty one then reopen the valve (between primary & secondary). So I won't remove the CB until the end of fermentation (no intermediate change with an empty CB). Whatever is in the CB at the end either gets dumped &/or the yeast harvested.
BTW, no intermediate change of the CB is a rarity. I typically change it at least once between primary & secondary. I guess my trub management from MT to BK to FF was better than usual this time around. Plus it's a simple clean ale with only 2oz of hops.
Thanks again, hope I don't wear out my welcome with a few more questions!
Why do you open the valve so quickly afterwards? I'd have thought that maybe it was best to keep closed until first pull, even if you open and then let it rest a few hours before a change. I guess I figured the yeast would drop all into the CB (ale yeast) and would that be a negative so far off the beer, and then.... I sit here and think about my Chronical. All the yeast would also drop down past the bottom elbow, never gave it a 2nd thought and it works just fine!
And, is it that the trub settles down first (at the bottom) then the yeast on top (of course some mixed in)? This makes some sense to me, I've pulled off yeast and found a lot of trub, tried to drop the first part and seem to get more yeast afterwards. I now filter into my Chronical and have found a lot less trub (as well as now trying out a hop basket, which I may return and use a dyi hop spider instead).
Thanks again, its great to share experiences here as always, so I appreciate your insight!
Yeah understand that #1 point well, there's always 2 views (or more!) in home brewing. When I started to harvest, I read a lot about washing and then a lot about not. I ended up first making oversized starters and worked from them, worked fine and still do once in awhile, but most are now slurry pitches.
#2, we need an exBeeriment on this one! I've been curious about kegging to avoid all the movement of the beer during bottling, and thought a bit of sediment in the bottle is small price to pay if it improves the final product. I transfer from my Chronical very carefully and stir in priming sugar and fill carefully but always wonder if the same beer in a keg would be different? If it was then I would think adding a racking port to the FF would be ideal for this, as I assume the bottling from that large outlet has its challenges, though I guess those that do would use some sort of reducer to bottle.
Thanks for your input!
The longer you wait to open the valve, the more chance the trub has to compact in the bottom of the conical and create a clog so it won't drop into the CB.
Once the yeast becomes active, it's either in suspension or floating on top. My first few batches in the FF, I used to open the valve immediately. Even though I didn't see any detrimental effects from opening the valve immediately, I decided to wait 12-24 hours and open the valve after the yeast becomes active to give them the best conditions without risking a clogged conical. I have seen others have a clogged conical (mostly from impatience I think) but I have not had to deal with any clogs.
I also haven't seen any clogs, but I leave the valve open from the get-go. Although, one batch, I had to go overseas for a few weeks, and when I got back the ball was as full and compacted as I've ever seen it. The trub/sediment was definitely up in the valve into the conical, but one good empty took care of that - the air bubbles from the empty ball dislodged the sediment and allowed it to go into the ball. Had a few moments of scare, though....
Exbeeriment!! Love it! When I bottled directly from the FF, the 1/2' hose really filled the bottles super-fast - it took quite a bit of finesse and control to do it slowly. I didn't use a reducer. I used a 1/2" hose and a 1/2" bottling tube/spring valve. I don't know if a keg would be different, but I also wonder about the extra handling and movement of the beer in the bottling bucket, even though I too am very careful.
BTW, I've found jbb3's advice to be top notch He aint bad for a 'lanta boy
Exbeeriment!! Love it! When I bottled directly from the FF, the 1/2' hose really filled the bottles super-fast - it took quite a bit of finesse and control to do it slowly. I didn't use a reducer. I used a 1/2" hose and a 1/2" bottling tube/spring valve. I don't know if a keg would be different, but I also wonder about the extra handling and movement of the beer in the bottling bucket, even though I too am very careful.
BTW, I've found jbb3's advice to be top notch
He aint bad for a 'lanta boy I also haven't seen any clogs, but I leave the valve open from the get-go. Although, one batch, I had to go overseas for a few weeks, and when I got back the ball was as full and compacted as I've ever seen it. The trub/sediment was definitely up in the valve into the conical, but one good empty took care of that - the air bubbles from the empty ball dislodged the sediment and allowed it to go into the ball. Had a few moments of scare, though....
Exbeeriment!! Love it! When I bottled directly from the FF, the 1/2' hose really filled the bottles super-fast - it took quite a bit of finesse and control to do it slowly. I didn't use a reducer. I used a 1/2" hose and a 1/2" bottling tube/spring valve. I don't know if a keg would be different, but I also wonder about the extra handling and movement of the beer in the bottling bucket, even though I too am very careful.
BTW, I've found jbb3's advice to be top notch
Wawster thanks for your advice and to the 'lanta boy's advice too! Always enjoy sound advice and others thoughts. I've got the answers to my questions, and bottling from the FF may not be the best approach, (esp with a 1/2" filler!) though I may try once from my conical via the racking port- maybe pull off 1/2 into a bottling bucket and bottle 1/2 from the conical. The CB activity makes sense, I wonder if lagering might require a different approach since they're bottom feeders, though none of us have tried a lager yet. I know my brother had a clog from letting the trub sit for about 2 weeks, likely an IPA. He's now filtering on the way into the FF.
Thanks again to both of you, much appreciated
gotbags-10
Well-Known Member
Thinking about doing a BIG beer in my fast ferment. One that I plan to take full advantage of secondary fermenting. I'm wondering how long the co2 blanket from the initial ferment will last? Days,weeks? I plan on topping it off with co2 every so often. Just trying to get a feel for how often I should do it. Recipe calls for a 10 day secondary then a 40 day tertiary fermentation at 50 degrees.
I don't brew lagers so I can't comment from experience. But I have seen folks talk about lager yeast needing more "contact" with the wort. Not sure I buy that but please refer back to the first sentence...
I've never done a long term tertiary but I would think you risk more by opening the top, even if it's to add a CO2 shot, then if you just left it alone.
The CO2 blanket folks talk/write about is not as thick and stable as many think. Just the act of opening the top will cause air to mix with the CO2 and may introduce contaminants as well.
The CO2 is not going anywhere if the FF is left sealed and it's not displaced with air from a CB change. I think I would leave the top closed and the FF undisturbed for the duration.
Just my two cents...
