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Can I have a link for the dual contact relays you used in your fermentation panel. I'm going to add a second and maybe third conical soon and like your set up for cheap easy expand-ability.
 
Toejam792 said:
Can I have a link for the dual contact relays you used in your fermentation panel. I'm going to add a second and maybe third conical soon and like your set up for cheap easy expand-ability.
Click to expand...

I used relays like this...http://www.ebay.com/itm/HH54P-DC-24...173238?hash=item51bdb60376:g:Ve4AAOSwu4BVieZF
since I used 24v dc solenoid valves and 24v heating strips it just made sense to use that 24v to activate my relay too... I used one NO contact to power my 240v chiller main pump and the other to activate the 24v valve at the same time... and the heater circuit is wired direct through the stc1000.

If you plan on using something like 12v instead then you can just search for a "12v coil dual relay"
 
Thanks for the link. Do you use a submersible pump in your system or does your gylcol system contain one. I'm just wondering what gph I should get for 4 fermenters.
 
Toejam792 said:
Thanks for the link. Do you use a submersible pump in your system or does your gylcol system contain one. I'm just wondering what gph I should get for 4 fermenters.
Click to expand...

my chiller has one... not sure how powerful the rating is.. I would go with something like 900+ gph..
 
Toejam792 said:
How many KWH are you using per brew day? I've always been curious about my brew day power usage.
Click to expand...

I can tell you after tonight... brewing an IPA with a friend ... I cant remember what my meter says now but I havent reset the KWH meter since I installed it.
 
augiedoggy said:
I learned that you can just wrap this $10 discharge hose also avaliable from the home depot around any conical and make a very effective cooling jacket http://www.ebay.com/itm/330900552367?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT (i used two #8 1/2 rubber stoppers with a 2" long piece of 3/8" copper tubing stuck in it and held tight with a hose clamp around the discharge hose and stopper for bulkheads to connect the hose to my valves.

I also learned that thin walled 5/16" silicone tubing (like surgical tubing) works well for cooling these conicals as well.. I'm using this method on my smaller 7 gallon unit.

I also picked up this beer gun,
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-...-Free-shipping-by-ePACKAT-to/32294349177.html
Click to expand...

How did you wrap the discharge hose? Just spiral down from the top?

How's the beer gun? I may have missed an update on it.
 
I'm curious how the MyPins work for the BK? Can you put them in manual mode and adjust the power level?
PS very nice build. I'm looking forward to a setup like this myself as soon I have all the info I neEd.
Cheers
 
bradleyhunt said:
How did you wrap the discharge hose? Just spiral down from the top?

How's the beer gun? I may have missed an update on it.
Click to expand...

Yes loosely wrapped and then insulated over it to hold it in place..

Beergun works great, I have used it a few times now... No modifications or leaks to address that others stated it might need.

And yeah @DangerisBrewing ...TD4-SNR is the ssr model you want with manual mode.
 
augiedoggy said:
Yes loosely wrapped and then insulated over it to hold it in place..

Beergun works great, I have used it a few times now... No modifications or leaks to address that others stated it might need.

And yeah @DangerisBrewing ...TD4-SNR is the ssr model you want with manual mode.
Click to expand...

Do you notice much overshooting with such a high surface area of cooling? I have been researching making my own Cooling Jacket with silicone tubing and a neoprene yoga mat, but the cost was going to be about the same as the CoolZone Jacket.
 
bradleyhunt said:
Do you notice much overshooting with such a high surface area of cooling? I have been researching making my own Cooling Jacket with silicone tubing and a neoprene yoga mat, but the cost was going to be about the same as the CoolZone Jacket.
Click to expand...

No... my temp probe is in the center coming in from the top so I get a little overshooting in the very beginning but I have my stc setup for a 1 degree variation and it hold very well without running much... I do have heating strips on my conicals as well also controlled by the stc1000 so they control any overshoot in the beginning fairly quickly.

I used 3/8" silicone tubing for my 7.5 gallon conical and it works but its not as effective as the discharge hose..
 
BitterSweetBrews said:
The sticking pump is my issue too. It will go for a while, then stop. It seems to stick between magnets. It was a black solar pump and thinking back, I am not sure it is considered "Food Grade". It is supposed to be rated to 100 deg C. I just ordered one of the 12v tan food grade pumps today. I bought a 24v 1a power supply for the other one, now I need to find a 12v model. The specs say .7a draw and I haven't found one yet. I may get a 1a one and hope it doesn't blow the motor.

I think I'll get 2 or 3 T valves next. I have a plan in my brain I need to put on paper. Do you see any problem using copper pipe to get started? I know SS would be better but I need to start out low budget and could put the piping together in copper for the cost of 1 section of SS. I just bought a 12" x 1 1/4" SS nipple to replace 2 shorter ones in my RIMS and it cost $22. I could buy all the pipe and fittings in copper (no valves) for much less than that. Otherwise, I could just use hose and fittings. I have a bunch from when I replaced hose barbs with quick connects. Though I would like the sturdiness of pipe and am pretty good at sweating plumbing.
Click to expand...

Where did you get your SS nipple from?
 
augiedoggy said:
Its a stainless "cartridge heater" they are often used in industrial and food manufacturing applications, I tried a few different sizes before deciding on a 24.5" log by 5/8 (or possibly 1/2') diameter element... its 1000w at 240w and because of the length and diameter its still ULWD. I made the tube of 1" stainless with a 1" camlock pictured for easy removal to clean (so far only needed to clean once when I accidently left it dry dry while on -hence the flow switch I installed above to prevent that from happening again.

I drilled out the extra bit at the base of a compression fitting and mounted the element inside of the compression fitting to mount it and keep everything waterproof.

these cartridge heater can be found for as little as $10 all the way up to $100... just search "cartridge heater" on ebay or amazon. I have mounted and tried 3/8 x 10" and 3/8 by 17 and 1/2" x 15" elements... they even sell them with a j type thermocouple built right into the element which would really prevent scorching which I tried but decided against because it operated much slower this way.

I had good results with this heater but went longer for more safety...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FAST-HEAT-C...386?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b023ad2aa
Click to expand...

Where do you find such long sections of stainless?
 
stever1000 said:
Where do you find such long sections of stainless?
Click to expand...

Theres two sellers on ebay that sell different lengths.. I used like a 12" and 20" or something to that effect with a coupler before I added the sight glass down below , Then I went with like an 18 or 16" piece with the 12"

just search 1" stainless nipple or pipe and the sellers should come up that offer different lengths.
 
augiedoggy said:
Theres two sellers on ebay that sell different lengths.. I used like a 12" and 20" or something to that effect with a coupler before I added the sight glass down below , Then I went with like an 18 or 16" piece with the 12"

just search 1" stainless nipple or pipe and the sellers should come up that offer different lengths.
Click to expand...

Ok I found them, I was hoping it was a Chinese supplier because shipping to Canada fromthe US is horrendous on eeBay
 
stever1000 said:
Ok I found them, I was hoping it was a Chinese supplier because shipping to Canada fromthe US is horrendous on eeBay
Click to expand...

gotcha... well there are chinese suppliers too I bought many of my stainless fittings from a huge store out of china on ebay daily deals I think its called..
 
augiedoggy said:
gotcha... well there are chinese suppliers too I bought many of my stainless fittings from a huge store out of china on ebay daily deals I think its called..
Click to expand...

Exactly the same deal for me - all my camlocks and fittings are from china.
The stainless tubes only go up to 200mm (8") so not long enough, I asked and that's the longest they carry, probably common size
 
augiedoggy said:
Its a stainless "cartridge heater" they are often used in industrial and food manufacturing applications, I tried a few different sizes before deciding on a 24.5" log by 5/8 (or possibly 1/2') diameter element... its 1000w at 240w and because of the length and diameter its still ULWD. I made the tube of 1" stainless with a 1" camlock pictured for easy removal to clean (so far only needed to clean once when I accidently left it dry dry while on -hence the flow switch I installed above to prevent that from happening again.

I drilled out the extra bit at the base of a compression fitting and mounted the element inside of the compression fitting to mount it and keep everything waterproof.

these cartridge heater can be found for as little as $10 all the way up to $100... just search "cartridge heater" on ebay or amazon. I have mounted and tried 3/8 x 10" and 3/8 by 17 and 1/2" x 15" elements... they even sell them with a j type thermocouple built right into the element which would really prevent scorching which I tried but decided against because it operated much slower this way.

I had good results with this heater but went longer for more safety...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FAST-HEAT-C...386?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b023ad2aa
Click to expand...

Were you able to stepmash with this setup? I know your current setp is longer, but I don't want to go too long because I have limited space. I like the 15-1/2" length you linked at the bottom too
 
stever1000 said:
Were you able to stepmash with this setup? I know your current setp is longer, but I don't want to go too long because I have limited space. I like the 15-1/2" length you linked at the bottom too
Click to expand...

yes I was able to step mash ... its still much faster than a herms system as far and stepping up the temps.
 
Do you have a closeup of how the cartridge heater is mounted in the compression fitting?

Do you see any benefit in going up to 1-1/2" stainless steel pipe, or is 1" good enough based on the cartridge taking up less space in the pipe than an elemnt would?
 
stever1000 said:
Do you have a closeup of how the cartridge heater is mounted in the compression fitting?

Do you see any benefit in going up to 1-1/2" stainless steel pipe, or is 1" good enough based on the cartridge taking up less space in the pipe than an elemnt would?
Click to expand...

I believe the 1" is better than 1 1/2... in fact if I was using a smaller 3/8" diameter element I would consider 3/4" pipe.... better tranfer/contact with the element during travel will equal a more stable even temp conversion

The compression fitting is just drilled out at the base where they are normally slightly smaller than the actual compression area and then I drop the element through and tighten up... The pics in the thread are all I have since its assembled now.
 
I have changed a few small things in the plumbing layout like re positioning the HLT pump so I dont get the airlocks and difficulty priming I sometimes got before. I also removed the bazooka tube from below my false bottom and swapped the short stainless braid with the long stainless braid that was in my boil kettle before... The shorter braid works better in myt boil kettle as a last chance filter and the longer one has more smaller hole surface area for less chances of a slow sparge.

I also saw a blichmann quickcarb thread here recently which inspired me to buy the components and build my own for $65... I am extremely pleased with it... I carbed a 10 gallon keg of christmas ale in an hour.

It uses this 12v food grade pump which is remarkable simiar to the 6v ones blichmann uses. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-DC-70W-...ne-/231735003614?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275

I also picked up these plastic disconnects http://www.ebay.com/itm/361462425881?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT for my co2 and oxygen lines so I can swap between ball lock, pinlock and the beer gun and quickcarb units easily... they were marketed on ebay for fuel lines until they came up in thread here then ironically someones started selling them on ebay for homebrewing use for a few more $$ each... Hmm...


I do have some replacement illuminated switches to replace the small green ones I use for my pumps... recently I had some issues with 2 of them sticking so I decided upgrades were now justified. I recently replaced my BK pid with the auber ezboil (300 version) I like the faster tighter temp control and the built in timer, alarms and ability to control my external timer and alarm.

I have a few beers going now... a Munich Dunkel at 55 degrees and an amber at 67 and salted caramel porter at 66...

Also I have a couple of these elements on there way from china.. No offense to whomever supplies them to brewhardware and brewboss but I just couldnt turn down trying these out myself for much less $.... I'm fairly certain they are from the same manufacturer as the standard ones ebrew supply sells. The company has been making elements for 40 years so...

IMG_20161219_132632122[1].jpg


IMG_20161219_132332575[1].jpg


IMG_20161219_132304243_HDR[1].jpg


element1.jpg
 
So my $16 elements arrived today... I have to install and test yet but I am optimistic because they seem to be decent quality. the plug enclosure has a see through silicone jacket which is nice I guess for piece of mind since I would be able to see if liquid somehow got in there..

IMG_20161228_165627330[1].jpg


IMG_20161228_165635518[1].jpg


IMG_20161228_165640741[1].jpg
 
just finished installing one of these elements in my boil kettle. No issue with the brewhardware weldless TC fitting I installed to hold it....
Its quite a jump up from my "4500w" element that was in there which only put out 4040w or so max... This ones was just over 5300w and draws about 22.4 amps so I think im going to keep my other 4500w element in my HLT... I never have a need to remove it anyway and this way I can continue to rum my rims along with my HLT at the same time off the 30a circuit without cutting it close.

Heres the element installed with one of Bobby Ms weldless fittings...

IMG_20161229_090245289[1].jpg


IMG_20161229_090319603[1].jpg
 
PapaFoxtrot said:
Link for the elements?
Click to expand...

I ordered them on Alibaba as samples the seller has quoted me $16 each plus $4.40 for shipping each if purchasing 100 of these. I don't think they are all that interested in selling individual units they normally sell to suppliers to mark up and resell.
 
Oh well.... I had looked on aliexpress and didn't see anything like that. Alibaba is usually higher volume orders.

augiedoggy said:
I ordered them on Alibaba as samples the seller has quoted me $16 each plus $4.40 for shipping each if purchasing 100 of these. I don't think they are all that interested in selling individual units they normally sell to suppliers to mark up and resell.
Click to expand...
 
PapaFoxtrot said:
Oh well.... I had looked on aliexpress and didn't see anything like that. Alibaba is usually higher volume orders.
Click to expand...
this is the seller thoughI dealt with them through email and paypal not alibaba because the order was so small.https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...62175659.html?spm=a2700.7724838.30.260.wVmlxj
I was going to see about asking the mods is we could do a group buy thread but I can see I should scrap that idea. there is some unknown "designer" third party out there apparently and it would be wrong to circumvent them to save the 500% markups..
 
augiedoggy said:
I also saw a blichmann quickcarb thread here recently which inspired me to buy the components and build my own for $65... I am extremely pleased with it... I carbed a 10 gallon keg of christmas ale in an hour.

It uses this 12v food grade pump which is remarkable simiar to the 6v ones blichmann uses. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-DC-70W-...ne-/231735003614?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275

I also picked up these plastic disconnects http://www.ebay.com/itm/361462425881?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT for my co2 and oxygen lines so I can swap between ball lock, pinlock and the beer gun and quickcarb units easily... they were marketed on ebay for fuel lines until they came up in thread here then ironically someones started selling them on ebay for homebrewing use for a few more $$ each... Hmm...
Click to expand...

That looks like a great piece of equipment. Why didn't you use one of the light brown solar pumps? Pressure? Also, I bought some of those quick connects from McMaster/Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/#=15qbeg7)and wasn't that impressed. I know they are pressure rated, but I wasn't ready to trust them. They looked like they would leak.

How did you integrate the aerator/diffusor into the "T".
 
BitterSweetBrews said:
That looks like a great piece of equipment. Why didn't you use one of the light brown solar pumps? Pressure? Also, I bought some of those quick connects from McMaster/Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/#=15qbeg7)and wasn't that impressed. I know they are pressure rated, but I wasn't ready to trust them. They looked like they would leak.

How did you integrate the aerator/diffusor into the "T".
Click to expand...
yes the pump I used is self priming and has a safety pressure cutout that will shut it off if the pressure is too high.
I used this stone
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232110590689?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I use one for my oxygen system too. they even sell them already mounted in a tee with barbs for like $20 on ebay.

The quick disconnects have been working great for my co2 lines.
 

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