Epic Keezer Build

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BrickBrewHaus

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I, along with 3 other guys, just put the finishing touches on an epic 3 tap keezer to be auctioned at our school's fundraiser gala. It has been a true labor of love with every decision being weighed and debated along the way.

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We began planning earlier this year, first deciding on the design. We wanted a piece that was elegant; something that could be appreciated by both husband and wife. We also wanted it to look like a true piece of furniture. One of the things I’m most proud of is the furniture-style legs with the freezer “floating” off the floor. This was something that I had not (and still have not) seen in a keezer, and trust me, I tried really hard to find plans on the internet for building something like this. But alas, we designed the structure ourselves.


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The cabinet and top is made from walnut. We are fortunate to be friends with the owner of a local lumber store (Schutte Lumber in Kansas City) who donated all of the lumber for this project. The internal supports are made from poplar. Everything was stained and coated with polyurethane to give the bar top extra protection.

Since this is being auctioned, presumably most of the potential bidders are not homebrewers. Therefore it was designed to fit three Sanke sixtels. No expense was spared, so we elected to go with stainless steel beer hardware; Sanke couplers, beer nuts, nipples, shanks, faucets, etc.

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We designed the Kansas City sign ourselves (sorta). The skyline was found on the internet but we added “Kansas City” and the subtle stars in the sky. I really love the contrast of the large stainless steel against the dark walnut.

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Not sure what else to say about it. It’s been a pleasure and joy working on this. I’ve learned a lot. Now hopefully this thing sells for a lot of $$$!!

Thanks for looking.

As for plans and costs….Let me know if you have questions as I’m happy to answer them. We don’t actually know the exact cost as the lumber, sign, Perlick faucets and freezer were all donated. But we estimate there’s about $2000 in raw materials (if we had to buy all of these items at market value).
 

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Wow! This really looks fantastic! A modern piece of functional furniture hiding a keezer.

You do need to understand these kind of auctions, the potential market, the audience attracted, etc. to come out ahead. I too hope you get a decent bid on it, but it's chancy with high ticket specialty items. Then they need to be reminded it's a fundraiser.
Is there a minimum bid requirement?

Just for reference, I priced out a 4 tap keezer build with 4 corny kegs, tank, stainless FC taps and shanks, collar, etc. If all new parts, it came in at around $1200, not counting labor. And you'd still be looking at a generic appliance shell.
 
Wow! This really looks fantastic! A modern piece of functional furniture hiding a keezer.
Thanks! The hope was that it be a beautiful piece that just so happens to serve beer.

You do need to understand these kind of auctions, the potential market, the audience attracted, etc. to come out ahead. I too hope you get a decent bid on it, but it's chancy with high ticket specialty items. Then they need to be reminded it's a fundraiser.
Is there a minimum bid requirement?
Chancy indeed. I'm confident we'll get a few grand for it, but obviously hopeful for much more.

I don't know if there's a minimum bid. It'll will be a live auction and I don't recall there being a minimum in years prior.
 
Thanks! The hope was that it be a beautiful piece that just so happens to serve beer.
Yeah, just so happens...
Man, this cabinet would make any spouse who cares about looks as much as, or more than beer, very happy. Just keep the price to oneself. Eh, it was only a few bucks. They needed to get rid of it.
Chancy indeed. I'm confident we'll get a few grand for it, but obviously hopeful for much more.

I don't know if there's a minimum bid. It'll will be a live auction and I don't recall there being a minimum in years prior.
Jeez, I would hate seeing that not making at least a couple grand. Maybe allow a silent reserve? Just in case someone is asleep at the wheel?

I used to go to auctions where they were spending over an hour bidding $$$ on boxes full of yellowed school-grade paper, while selling all the commercial kitchen equipment for $100-300 a piece within 10 minutes flat. Who got the best deal, huh?
 
Beautiful craftsmanship.
Love the pipe fittings.
IMHO I'd set a minimum bid at 2,500
A labor of love like that shouldn't be left to chance by a potentially non beer drinking audience.
 
Just wondering how the towers are cooled?
The beer lines are inside copper pipes, which extend into the keezer a few inches. Then there is spray foam insulation around the copper pipes, inside the black iron pipe. In theory, the copper pipes conduct cold up the length of the beer lines to the faucets. I've taken a few pulls in the evening (FOR TESTING PURPOSES!!) and it seems to work fine; no extraneous foaming. I got the idea from a few threads on here.
 
Beautiful craftsmanship.
Love the pipe fittings.
IMHO I'd set a minimum bid at 2,500
A labor of love like that shouldn't be left to chance by a potentially non beer drinking audience.
I'll need to see whether there is a formal minimum bid provision. Frankly, I'll be disappointed with anything less than $5k. I think I'd ugly cry if it only got $2500. Fingers crossed!
 
Frankly, I'll be disappointed with anything less than $5k. I think I'd ugly cry if it only got $2500. Fingers crossed!
There's only one way to make sure that simply doesn't happen. Set the low reserve at $5k. They may start bidding at whatever they want. You need to get that in place before even hauling it out there.

Just sayin'.

P.S.
Not sure if you can auction those filled kegs, though, officially, without a proper liquor licence...
You may need to go through the "brewery" or "distributor" for that.
Step into my office...
 
Not sure if you can auction those filled kegs, though, officially, without a proper liquor licence...
You may need to go through the "brewery" or "distributor" for that.
Step into my office...
Kegs are not part of the auction item. They are being served that night (to amp up the interest in the keezer) under whatever alcohol serving provisions are in place for the event.
 
I'll need to see whether there is a formal minimum bid provision. Frankly, I'll be disappointed with anything less than $5k. I think I'd ugly cry if it only got $2500. Fingers crossed!

Just to clarify, I threw out 2,500 based on a previous post.
Not having those woodworking skills, I have no idea of the going value, but I would want a LOT of money for that keezer !
Good luck. And please let us know how it went!
 
Do you have some more details on the materials? Looks like perhaps walnut? Just wondering how to price materials out for something like this. I have a nice "outside" kegerator, but something like this to do in the house would be killer.
 
I, along with 3 other guys, just put the finishing touches on an epic 3 tap keezer to be auctioned at our school's fundraiser gala. It has been a true labor of love with every decision being weighed and debated along the way.

View attachment 649664

View attachment 649665
We began planning earlier this year, first deciding on the design. We wanted a piece that was elegant; something that could be appreciated by both husband and wife. We also wanted it to look like a true piece of furniture. One of the things I’m most proud of is the furniture-style legs with the freezer “floating” off the floor. This was something that I had not (and still have not) seen in a keezer, and trust me, I tried really hard to find plans on the internet for building something like this. But alas, we designed the structure ourselves.


View attachment 649673

The cabinet and top is made from walnut. We are fortunate to be friends with the owner of a local lumber store (Schutte Lumber in Kansas City) who donated all of the lumber for this project. The internal supports are made from poplar. Everything was stained and coated with polyurethane to give the bar top extra protection.

Since this is being auctioned, presumably most of the potential bidders are not homebrewers. Therefore it was designed to fit three Sanke sixtels. No expense was spared, so we elected to go with stainless steel beer hardware; Sanke couplers, beer nuts, nipples, shanks, faucets, etc.

View attachment 649667 View attachment 649671 View attachment 649672

We designed the Kansas City sign ourselves (sorta). The skyline was found on the internet but we added “Kansas City” and the subtle stars in the sky. I really love the contrast of the large stainless steel against the dark walnut.

View attachment 649670
View attachment 649669

Not sure what else to say about it. It’s been a pleasure and joy working on this. I’ve learned a lot. Now hopefully this thing sells for a lot of $$$!!

Thanks for looking.

As for plans and costs….Let me know if you have questions as I’m happy to answer them. We don’t actually know the exact cost as the lumber, sign, Perlick faucets and freezer were all donated. But we estimate there’s about $2000 in raw materials (if we had to buy all of these items at market value).

Looks fantastic! Congratulations - that is something to be proud of!
 
Just to clarify, I threw out 2,500 based on a previous post.
Not having those woodworking skills, I have no idea of the going value, but I would want a LOT of money for that keezer !
Good luck. And please let us know how it went!
I understood. I'll be sure to report back!
 
Do you have some more details on the materials? Looks like perhaps walnut? Just wondering how to price materials out for something like this. I have a nice "outside" kegerator, but something like this to do in the house would be killer.
Yep, all the visible lumber is walnut. The faces are walnut veneer plywood. We used a little bit of poplar for the underside bracing, but that was relatively minor from a price point of view. Frankly, I don't know what the lumber cost. It was all donated by a local lumber yard. One of the guys who helped build it estimated about $500 just for the lumber.
 
I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EVI92AU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I never tried anything else. In doing some research, I saw these recommended in a couple posts/blogs and decided to try them. They worked well for me.
Oh ok. And then the collar on that shank comes off and you attached a reducer right to the shank that then went in that 90 deg elbow, right?

Do you or did you have any issue with the draft line kinking as it came off the back of the shank and made that turn through the elbow to go down into the keezer?
 
Oh ok. And then the collar on that shank comes off and you attached a reducer right to the shank that then went in that 90 deg elbow, right?

Do you or did you have any issue with the draft line kinking as it came off the back of the shank and made that turn through the elbow to go down into the keezer?
Correct and correct.

No problems that I'm aware of. I couldn't verify visually that there was not a kink, but the beer poured well. I'm assuming there would've been foaming at the faucet if there was a kink.
 
Oh, your bracing on the bottom for the "floating freezer" effect. Did you guys have to do any special calculations to ensure those braces would hold the freezer fully loaded or did you just wing it on that part?

What does the back of it look like? Is it open or is it all enclosed?
 
Oh, your bracing on the bottom for the "floating freezer" effect. Did you guys have to do any special calculations to ensure those braces would hold the freezer fully loaded or did you just wing it on that part?
Haha, we totally wung it. One of those braces held a ~160# man and we have 5 braces, so I think we're good. Each brace is two 1x2" poplar boards (so each brace is 2x2") secured by pocket hole screws to 1x6" poplar spanning the width of the cabinet.
 
This looks amazing. Any pics of how the taps are connected in the pipes? I would like use these types of taps for my keezer.
 
This looks amazing. Any pics of how the taps are connected in the pipes? I would like use these types of taps for my keezer.
Thank you!
Can you clarify? Are you wondering how the tailpiece of the shank connects to the beer line? Or how the shank connects to the black pipe?
 
Thank you!
Can you clarify? Are you wondering how the tailpiece of the shank connects to the beer line? Or how the shank connects to the black pipe?

A bit of both actually. I am thinking this tail piece may have fit through the hole in the reducer. Then what adapter was used in the back of it to connect to the beer line.
 
A bit of both actually. I am thinking this tail piece may have fit through the hole in the reducer. Then what adapter was used in the back of it to connect to the beer line.
Correct. I used this shank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...ch_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=forumyield-20. It has a 3/16" barbed fitting which attached to the beer line.

As for attaching the shank to the black pipe...The shank simply passes through the reducer; it does not thread into the threads of the reducer. The shank is held in place with a nut (included with the shank) that is tightened against the inside of the reducer. I used thread lock on the threads of the shank to make sure it doesn't come loose. I don't recall the size of the reducer; its either 3/4" or 1". I would definitely recommend buying the shank first then bring it to the store when buying the other pipe hardware (bushing, elbows, etc.).
 
What does the back of it look like? Is it open or is it all enclosed?
Sorry, I missed this question when I originally replied. The back is open. Take a look at the pic in the original post where the cabinet is unfinished in my garage. That's how it looked after it was finished; just the two 1x6" poplar boards across the top and the bottom.
 
I just re-read through the thread.
All Walnut? DONATED wood? You've got to be kidding. That alone is worth a fortune.
So... Since I have a fully functional 6 tap keezer, but looks like **** compared to this...
I have to wonder how this played out.
Did the auction take place?
Did you actually part with this work of art?
Were tears shed?
Do you have keezer withdrawal anxiety?
Are you going into the keezer building business?
Can I place my order?
 
Did the auction take place?
Did you actually part with this work of art?
Yep, we had the auction about a month ago. Unfortunately, we only sold it for $2400. A disappointment to be sure. There were at least two guys that we were certain would bid on it, but neither did. In the end, a friend of ours bought it and they were ecstatic to get it. While it didn't bring the price that we would've liked, it was awesome to see someone so happy to have it and it will be nice to go over to their house and grab a beer.

Were tears shed?
Do you have keezer withdrawal anxiety?
No tears were shed and there has been zero withdrawal anxiety. Almost the opposite actually. We spent A LOT of time and mental energy on this. So it has been nice to not be thinking about it constantly. We had the idea to build this over a year ago. And even before we started the build I was mentally planning; thinking through every tiny and seemingly insignificant detail. The mental break has been nice.

Are you going into the keezer building business?
Can I place my order?
For the aforementioned reasons....NOPE AND NOPE. :)
 
This looks really classy and insanely awesome, very nice job!

I've been trying to convince my wife to let me put taps in the kitchen or pantry, but to no avail. I showed her this and asked if I built something like this if she would be ok with it in the music/office room, and she said "yes" (3rd best yes from her - 1st was marriage, 2nd was a fun car).

There are a few things I was wondering:
- What type of wood did you use for the corner posts? Are those also walnut?
- What was your thought approach on the top (why you chose foam insulation board instead of utilizing the chest freezer's top)?
- Did you add a collar to the chest freezer because you needed the extra height, or because of a desired tap handle / bar top height, or?
- Did you have any thoughts about future-proofing this? (i.e. if the chest freezer dies and had to get another, would it be easy to find a suitable replacement that fits the cabinet)
- When you talk about a "reducer", is that the piece that is matched to the pipe and screws into the pipe-elbow, or something else?

Again, great job on this build, thanks for posting. Not to diminish the great work of others, but it's the best I've seen.
 
Thank you for the kind words!

- What type of wood did you use for the corner posts? Are those also walnut?
Yes, walnut for the corner posts. Apparently getting a true 4x4 walnut post is difficult, so these are actually three pieces of walnut glued to make a 4x4. You can see the individual boards if you look closely at some of the pics.

- What was your thought approach on the top (why you chose foam insulation board instead of utilizing the chest freezer's top)?
Man, where to start (I had LOTS of thoughts). First and foremost, I wanted the whole piece to look like a beautiful piece of furniture. Most of the design elements flowed from this desire. I felt like directly attached the wood top to the base cabinet with hinges attached to both, gave me the best shot of achieving this goal. Not to say it couldn't be done with the freezer's original lid, that's just not the route I/we chose. I'm not up to speed on the methods of attaching the freezer's lid, but the first thing that comes to mind is using lag bolts through both the lid and the wood top...I didn't want exposed bolt heads. I wouldn't trust glue between the two to hold the wood top, it weighed about 50#.

- Did you add a collar to the chest freezer because you needed the extra height, or because of a desired tap handle / bar top height, or?
A little bit of both. We wanted the height of the top to be a comfortable leaning height (imagine resting your elbow on it while conversing with a friend). Plus we needed a bit of extra internal height for the CO2 tank. We used a 2x4, which fit the bill perfectly.

- Did you have any thoughts about future-proofing this? (i.e. if the chest freezer dies and had to get another, would it be easy to find a suitable replacement that fits the cabinet)
The thought only briefly crossed our minds. It actually would be easy to swap out the freezer since it just drops into the cabinet. Obviously you would need to find a freezer of roughly the same size, but there's a decent amount (at least 1/2") of clearance around the perimeter of the freezer, so I wouldn't expect finding a replacement to be impossible. If you're worried about this, you could easily make the cabinet just a bit bigger to give you even more buffer.

- When you talk about a "reducer", is that the piece that is matched to the pipe and screws into the pipe-elbow, or something else?.
Correct. The piece that sits between the faucet and the pipe elbow. It's proper name is a "bushing."
 
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