Electric up grade to gas/rims system ?

[lehr]

I want to add electric heating elements to my system (propane cost is crazy right now). I will weld sanitary fittings to the lower area of the kegs, that should be no problem, the issue is how do you keep from scorching in the boil PID controller and low density elements ?
Thanks Pat

 

[TopherM]

Use high density or ultra high density elements instead! They'll cost you about $10-12 more each than the low density.

 

[lehr]

Really, I thought the high density would cause scorching ?
I have a ultra low density element in my rims tube for just that reason, or so I thought.

Any other suggestion from you electric Gurus ?

 

[hio3791]

I am not an electric guru as I am just beginning my electric build but from my research on this site, the most common used element for the boil kettle is the Camco Ultra Low Watt Density (ULWD). The power rating will be based on your requirements.

In the BK, once the boil is reached, the PID will not run 100% duty cycle. It'll vary based on the individual system but the norm I've seen would be between 60% and 85%. From my research, using a ULWD will not scorch the wort.

Last week, I installed a 30A GFCI breaker with a 4-wire outlet in my garage. I bought the 5500 watt Camco ULWD and today, I should be receiving parts for my controller. With any luck, I should be going within a few weeks. 'Till then, I can only speak from what I've read. Hopefully, someone with actual experience will chime in.

 

[lehr]

Thanks hio3791, I have a pid controller on my rims tube, I think I will have to make a new control box to fit in more pids.

 

[augiedoggy]

Use high density or ultra high density elements instead! They'll cost you about $10-12 more each than the low density.

TopherM must be remembering this wrong, this logic is backwards)... you want the lowest density possible (sold for use with high mineral content water to prevent mineral buildup on the elements)... This also dissipated the heat across more surface area making it less likely to scorch.
I bought my ultra low density ace hardware 4500w elements on ebay new for likw $20 a piece but you can find them at stores for $30-35... the ripple ones seem to be the best as they have more surface area and fit in smaller diameter pots and kettles.

4500w is plenty really for 15 gallons of water but 5500 is quicker..
the mypin TD4 is actually a good choice for a pid with the manual control option to dial in a steady boil... they are only about $26

 

[lehr]

Thanks augiedoggy, I was thinking the same thing about the density, I built my system a long time ago so I thought my memory might be slipping.

 

[lehr]

I welded the fittings to my three vessel and temporarily wired them until I make a new control panel, I wont be using the boil until I add the second PID.
The elements are 4500w 240v I did some water test and it worked great...wish I had done this from the start.

 

[stlbeer]

Lehr,

I watched your build from the beginning and always wondered why, with your mad fabrication skills, you didn't go electric.

Glad to see you've made the switch. Propane is pricey.

 

[lehr]

Stilbeer,
I'll be honest I didn't know any better. I was very impressed with how well it worked in the water tests I did, 8 gallons from 54 degrees to 170 in 25 minutes.

I heat my house with propane it costs me $600.00 a month to heat my house to 62 degrees !