Electric BrewEasy

[themcnabs]

I am considering an electric Blichmann BrewEasy for 5 gallon batches. They make a 120v and a 240v BoilCoil for the 10 gallon kettle that comes with this system. I like the convenience of the 120v but am worried it will be to slow heating. The 120v is 2250w and the 240v is 3750w. Anyone have any data on the heating speed differences?

 

[BeerMonkey_Brewery]

Haven't used that system, but I have used both 2kW and 3.5 kW for heating/boiling 5-6 gallon batches. And yes, the diffrence is massiv..

 

[stlbeer]

Use this: http://gnipsel.com/beer/software/calculators/electric-heat.xls

There are several calculations you can use to get a very close answer.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Use this: http://gnipsel.com/beer/software/calculators/electric-heat.xls

There are several calculations you can use to get a very close answer.

I feel it is noteworthy that you must also consider heating losses that will be constant with either element. For this example lets assume 500w loss, so then the heating performance will be 1750w vs 3250w. As said above, the difference b/w the two will be very noticeable! With the smaller element, you likely wouldn't even need a controller for the boil, as even maxed out it will not be that intense in a 10 gallon pot.

 

[stlbeer]

I feel it is noteworthy that you must also consider heating losses that will be constant with either element. For this example lets assume 500w loss, so then the heating performance will be 1750w vs 3250w. As said above, the difference b/w the two will be very noticeable! With the smaller element, you likely wouldn't even need a controller for the boil, as even maxed out it will not be that intense in a 10 gallon pot.

Agree that losses make a difference. That can be compensated for with insulation.

Is your math right or is that a typo? 3250w-500w=2750w.

 

[TNugent]

Agree that losses make a difference. That can be compensated for with insulation.

Is your math right or is that a typo? 3250w-500w=2750w.

He means with a 500w loss the 2250w element becomes a 1750w and the 3750w becomes a 3250w.

So it's not 3750w vs 2250w, it's more like a 3250w element vs a 1750w element.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Thanks mate....that's the ***** in low wattage E brewing, after the losses there's not much left for business.

2250 will likely work, but not worth bling man prices IMO.




Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/

 

[wilserbrewer]

Agree that losses make a difference. That can be compensated for with insulation.

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Been way to long to remember the science, but perhaps the loss at the top surfface of the wort is the greatest and difficult to compensate...

 

[dyqik]

Been way to long to remember the science, but perhaps the loss at the top surfface of the wort is the greatest and difficult to compensate...

There are two separate situations - heating and boiling. When you are heating the wort to boiling point, you want to reduce the losses so that you get up to temperature as fast as possible. You can cover the kettle while heating to reduce evaporation and convection losses while heating (without worrying about trapping DMS). When you are boiling, your major heat loss is from evaporation, which is what you want - the heat input from the burner/element minus the losses through the sides and base of the kettle is the amount of heat lost to evaporation. That amount of heat gives you your boil off rate.