Ebiab Control Panel Wiring Diagram help.

[Volosogryzka]

Howdy all

I'm planning on switching my biab kettle over to electric and was wondering if anyone could offer me some feed back on the wiring diagram for my control panel.
I'll be running a 3600w element, an auber ezboil and 25w pump.
I only do single batches so my needs are quite simple at the moment. I'm also in Australia so the power is single phase 220-240v

I've tried to copy existing diagrams most of which are for US power. It would be amazing if someone could check my work.

Thanks in advance for any help offered.

 

[RufusBrewer]

I would use a 20 amp breaker where you have a 15 amp. Same for the contacted, 20 amps or more. I would use a SSR rated higher then the expected load.

Just checking: your pump is 240 VAC.

The main switch does not look to provide a function. It only turns on another switch. Move the inputs of the 1 amp & 1.5 amp CB after the main relay. Move the input of the main switch to input side of the main relay.

I like it. Simple, straight forward. Standing by for the diagram with a lockout feature.

 

[Volosogryzka]

I would use a 20 amp breaker where you have a 15 amp. Same for the contacted, 20 amps or more. I would use a SSR rated higher then the expected load.

Just checking: your pump is 240 VAC.

The main switch does not look to provide a function. It only turns on another switch. Move the inputs of the 1 amp & 1.5 amp CB after the main relay. Move the input of the main switch to input side of the main relay.

I like it. Simple, straight forward. Standing by for the diagram with a lockout feature.

Thanks for the feed back. On a closer look I can see exactly what you mean about the main switch. I'll fix all that when I get home and update the diagram.

Also the pump is definitely 240vac.

Do I need to increase the tolerance for the cb and the contactor? I'm having an electrician install a separate circuit with 20a and a gfci power point for extra safety.

 

[RufusBrewer]

You are installing a 240 VAC 20 amp circuit? Of you can swing it, I recommend going with 240 VAC @ 30 amps. Future proof your investment.

Taking your diagram at face value, 3600 watts at 240 volts = 15 amps. Breakers do not do well running at 100%. A 20 amp breaker will provide the margin you are looking for.

Most specifications on electrical devices are "do not exceed this value." You are not looking to match the spec. E.g. You can use a 10 amp contacter on a 1 amp circuit. There might be a dollar penalty for the "bigger" device. Same for your SSR. Best to avoid running it at 100%. Invest on the next size up, say 30 amps. Especially if you are buying bargain off brands off eBay and Ali Baba.

 

[doug293cz]

What is the amp rating on the circuit you will be using to power the control panel? If it's 30A or less, then you don't need the 15A circuit breaker at all.

You don't need a contactor for the pump. At 25W it will draw less than 0.15A so can controlled by a simple switch - no contactor required.

You don't need two low amp circuit breakers. A single 1 - 2A breaker will handle all of you lower current demand.

The only things that should connect to the incoming hot line are the main contactor input, and the main power switch that controls that contactor. All other hot line connections should be after the main power contactor.

Use at least a 20A contactor for the element enable function, and a 25A SSR.

I would strongly recommend that you place an "Element Firing" lamp in parallel with your element. This is the item that will let you know if your SSR has failed in any way.

Brew on

 

[Volosogryzka]

Thanks for the replies. It will take me a couple of days to make the changes to the diagram that you all have suggested. I'll post it when I can.

 

[Volosogryzka]

You don't need a contactor for the pump. At 25W it will draw less than 0.15A so can controlled by a simple switch - no contactor required.

I'm using this pump
https://www.kegland.com.au/mkii-high-temperature-magnetic-drive-pump-1-1-amp.htmlIt tells me it runs 1.1a is that still fine for a simple switch?

What is the amp rating on the circuit you will be using to power the control panel? If it's 30A or less, then you don't need the 15A circuit breaker at all.

As RufusBrewer suggested I'll be installing a 30a outlet, that is if it possible.

 

[doug293cz]

I'm using this pump
https://www.kegland.com.au/mkii-high-temperature-magnetic-drive-pump-1-1-amp.htmlIt tells me it runs 1.1a is that still fine for a simple switch?



As RufusBrewer suggested I'll be installing a 30a outlet, that is if it possible.

A 1.1A current draw at 240V is 260W not 25W. The specs they give are not self-consistent. A lot of the switches used in control panels are rated for up to 10A, so even with the higher than originally believed power consumption, you still don't need a contactor.

Given this higher pump power than my first post was based on, you should use a 2A or slightly larger circuit breaker to protect your finer gauge wire in the panel.

Brew on

 

[DavidWood2115]

Just to point out to others (since I was initially confused), that the Australian power plugs have a Hot (Red), Neutral (Black), and Ground (Green). This is like the US 120V system, except the hot is 230V (and 50Hz).

 

[RufusBrewer]

Sorry, I blew right past the Aussie 240 single phase AC.

I have an Anvil Foundry 10.5 gal. Running 240 VAC it 2,800 watts and not so slow to ramp up that it is too annoying. 3,600 watts is about 25% better.

You could stay with at 3,600 watts and with the money you save, buy some other homebrew equipment to make your brew day better. Depends on your budget and commitment to the hobby.

A plain old switch {no relay) for the pump is a good idea. No point in making things extra complicated. Save space in your box, always a good thing.

 

[Volosogryzka]

This is the updated version of the diagram. I think I've made the suggested changes. Fingers crossed.

 

[doug293cz]

The main power on indicator lamp is wired incorrectly, and will prevent the main power contactor from working. The right coil terminal needs to connect directly to the neutral.

Brew on

 

[Volosogryzka]

Fixed the Main power indicator and connected the coil directly to neutral.

I've not included the probe for simplicity. I'm just going to use an xlr connector like most seem to do.

 

[doug293cz]

Other than forgetting the ground to the pump outlet, it looks good.

Brew on

 

[Volosogryzka]

Thanks for all your help. I'll remember to ground the pump if it needs it.
I've ordered parts and will update on my progress.

 

[RufusBrewer]

Certainly you want to add a ground connection to the socket installed on enclosure. Even if your pump is not grounded, which it almost guaranteed to use the ground terminal. If it does not I would consider using a different pump.

 

[Volosogryzka]

I just want to thank everyone for your help. It took me many months, starting and stopping but I finally completed the build and had the electrician come and install the outlet. Everything works fantastic, except for air bubbles in the pump line which will take a little adjusting to get working properly.

/edit. The wiring is spaghetti but I shouldn't need to touch it any further.

 

[doug293cz]

Glad to hear you got it working.

Brew on