AlkiBrewing
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Great. Thanks for the quick reply Alien.
mr_rogers said:Actually it's 14 gauge braided. It's what I plan to use as the power cord. Any problem with using smaller wire internally?
Not faulty. Just not a STC1000. You have a single stage controller that is capable of controlling cooling or heating but not both at the same time.I think I got a faulty controller.....
I'm just figuring that out. Working on wiring it now... Hope I get it all right.
That diagram worked perfect. So i have the whole thing wired up but i'm still a little confused about the settings… This is what I have so far. Actual temp set to 40 HC-00 (which from what i've read on HBT is cooling) D-3 CA-00 ( I haven't tested to accuracy of the probe yet) PT-10 What is confusing is the LS and HS LS started at -58 and HS at 19.4 the HS setting wont go higher than 19.4 so now i'm wondering if this is in relation to the desired temp setting (40) meaning that the controller will allow 40+19.4. Now i'm thinking these settings basically restrict the range of available temperatures to choose from? Wish I had the english instructions...I have a few wiring diagrams for the other single stage model, but I can't find the one I made for that model. Here's a crude one I found when doing a quick search here on HBT. You'll connect the temp probe to 3&4, and nothing to terminal 5. Hope that helps.
bdknuc2 said:I haven't read all 300 pages of this thread but I just wanted the quick answer. What model refrigerators are most commonly used for lagering? Looking at making a purchase soon and I just want to make sure carboys will fit and the STC-1000 will be compatible.
U don't want too much light in your ferm-chamber the threads I have seen about the paint can heater recommend only one small hole near the bottom so you know it's on. The can should produce enough heat by its self as long as you use a regular light bulb. Remember the bight the watt bulb the more heat
I could totally be wrong but I would think a bunch of tiny holes in the paint can would provide minimal light and wouldn't be enough to affect the fermentation (I ferment primarily in buckets). Add in the fact that the light only comes on when heating and it'd be even less.
The can definitely produces enough heat. I think I tested mine with a 60w bulb and it got too hot too touch, but that is what I'm worried about. I don't think a paint can and the light fixture is designed for that much heat so I figured if I poke some tiny holes it would allow some of the heat to escape and at the same time warm up the fermentation to the desired temps quicker.
Thoughts?
I think we need to start a H.B.T.A. (HomeBrewTalk Anonymous) group as I can't... stop... researching....reading....getting ideas....
EricDP said:Has anybody tried the XH-W1208 temparture controller? dx.com is selling them for $15 (shipping included), and it seems to have roughly equivalent specs to the STC-1000. Looks similar too - probably just a knock-off.
I tried searching first I promise, but I couldn't quite find the answer. I have a single STC-like temp controller that I want to wire up with one outlet for cooling and the other outlet always on (for a keezer fan). Does anyone know where I could find a wiring diagram that'll allow me to accomplish this? Thanks!
If you want one outlet as always on just bypass the STC-1000 with that outlet and wire it direct to the power.
I went to Walmart and found that they had grounded electrical receptecals for only $0.67 each whereas the ge branded ones were $3-$3.50 each. Does anyone think there's a difference in using the $0.67 ones? They're rated 125V/15A
Has anybody tried the XH-W1208 temparture controller? dx.com is selling them for $15 (shipping included), and it seems to have roughly equivalent specs to the STC-1000. Looks similar too - probably just a knock-off.
They are pretty much the same. What do you think contractors buy? The $3 GE or the $.37 ones that come in boxes of 100+?
Now there could be small differences as in how they are constructed and will hold up over time, the number of insertions, the tightness of the spades etc. but it is doubtful you would notice it.
Now I splurged and bought the gray Leviton Decora ones for $2.50, since they look really good in a black box. I saw a post here where the guy used those. These modern style outlets have the square profile which is way easier to cut a hole for than the old fashioned duplex semi-round ones. They have them at Home Depot/Lowe's/Electrical supply places. Hot glue will secure them inside the box.
Speaking of... You can buy $25 outlets too. They are "medical grade" and very popular among audiophiles. The same people that will spend $500-$5000 on a pair of cables, uh sorry, interconnects. Don't forget they need serious "burn-in time" to sound better.
I'm not aware of beer drinkers that have gone into extremes like that yet, but I'm sure it's coming slowly...
I wired my STC -1000 up over the weekend. Everything was correct, double checked the schematics and Youtube vidoes...the plug doesnt work!!
Is my STC DOA and not sending power to the plug or am I missing something? The light was blinking for the cooling, but no power at the outlet.
You can certainly install the controller in the middle of an extension cord. Although the wiring is little more involved than what you have stated. In particular, the neutral does not get switched, or provided, by the controller. The controller simply has an internal switch for the hot....Is there any reason you couldn't take a 14 gauge extension cord, snip (hot and neutral) it in the middle, put the side coming from the wall outlet into the STC1000 power input, and the other side on the STC1000 power output and plug the freezer into that cord? Then I could keep the cord grounded by letting that flow all the way through to the the freezer plug?....
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