Drying out a Belgian Golden Strong

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StarrHill

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I brewed a Duvel clone extract kit from my LHBS a couple of weeks ago. I was aiming for something easy and fast, so I used dry yeast instead of a starter. Decided to use two packets of T58, sprinkled dry on top of the cooled wort.

It was going nuts within a few hours in the upper sixties. I let it cool down to the low sixties so as not to get too estery. I've heard of bubble gum and other undesirable flavors for the style from that yeast fermented too high I fermented between 62-66 for one week and checked gravity. 1.014, OG was 1.080.

Trying to get it down to about 1.006, I let it warm up over the next week, by a couple of degrees per day, and left it sitting at 75 to finish up. After a week in the mid 70s, it's at 1.012. Tasting it today, it tastes consistent with the style, with nice balance and yeast character, but still finishes a little sweet. Any ideas on how to dry it out? It got down to a decent FG, so does this count as a stuck ferm? Should I just leave it alone at higher temps for another couple of weeks? Other thoughts?

Thanks
 
At this point in not sure you can do anything to dry it out because you've already got pretty good attenuation.

However, you might be able to hide some of the sweetness by adding bitterness. You could make some hop tea and experiment with different ratios. Another option may be adding CaSO4 which may help bring out more of the hop character.

Next time you could replace more of the malt extract with sugar to create a drier beer. Generally 20% sugar is the highest you can go before it has significant flavor impact.
 
with extract, 1.012 is likely done.

Aside from your recipe, how/when did you add the extract? Beginning of the boil? Late in the boil? How long of a boil? All of that will make it easier for people to give you more meaningful input.
 
Recipe was 7lbs pilsner lme plus 2.5 lbs sugar. Boiled for 60min and put extract in at the beginning. Recipe calls for it to finish out at 1.007.
 
There is a way to dry it out. (Sorry had forgotten about this trick) you can add Alpha-galactosidase enzymes. A tablet of bean-o should do it, although it might do it to well. I've heard of this converting nearly all of the unfermentables to fermentable leaving an extremely thin product. Once it gets to where you like it if you keg it and keep it cold you should be able to slow the reaction enough to enjoy your beer.

Here is a list of other things you might consider:
http://www.woodlandbrew.com/2012/11/top-ten-ways-to-restart-fermentation.html
 
There is a way to dry it out. (Sorry had forgotten about this trick) you can add amylase enzymes. A tablet of bean-o should do it, although it might do it to well. I've heard of this converting nearly all of the unfermentables to fermentable leaving an extremely thin product. Once it gets to where you like it if you keg it and keep it cold you should be able to slow the reaction enough to enjoy your beer.

Here is a list of other things you might consider:
http://www.woodlandbrew.com/2012/11/top-ten-ways-to-restart-fermentation.html

Good info. wish i knew this wheni was trying to dry out my saison. couldnt get it lower than 1.010 and tahts with it at 90+ F and dupont strain.
 
So should some amylase enzyme from my LHBS work? I don't want it to get thin, but would like a nice dry finish. Any tips for getting 6-8 more points of attenuation without overshooting?
 
Next time add 70-80% of your extract in at the last 10 mins of the boil. Adding it in all at the beginning will caramelize some of the sugars rendering them unfermentable. It will also darken your beer more than you hoped. I always make it a habit to do this with all my beers unless I am wanting a distinct caramel sweetness. I also find that DME makes for a drier beer than LME.
 
Update : I left it in the low 70s,have it a good swirl with the lid still on, and I've got airlock activity again! I think I'll get those last few points I was wanting now.
 
Airlock activity at this point could mean you're getting some more fermentation, but it could just as easily be off-gassing of CO2. I have an RIS in primary that I mashed a bit too hot, and it seemed done several points higher than I was intending. I made a simple and very light caramel syrup (basically invert sugar, but with a smidge of color) and tossed it in the fermenter, and that got fermentation going again. I don't have an FG to share yet, and adding sugar in the fermenter is going to increase ABV, but it can help you dry out a beer that is otherwise unfinished.

So, if you want to drop the FG a few points and don't mind a little more alcohol than the recipe was targeting, tossing in a quarter-pound shot of sugar or sugar syrup should get you closer to your goal. Normally I probably wouldn't do that with a recipe that's already 20% sugar, but if Butterpants is right and Duvel uses closer to 30%, I don't see how a bit more would hurt your recipe.
 
Airlock activity at this point could mean you're getting some more fermentation, but it could just as easily be off-gassing of CO2. I have an RIS in primary that I mashed a bit too hot, and it seemed done several points higher than I was intending. I made a simple and very light caramel syrup (basically invert sugar, but with a smidge of color) and tossed it in the fermenter, and that got fermentation going again. I don't have an FG to share yet, and adding sugar in the fermenter is going to increase ABV, but it can help you dry out a beer that is otherwise unfinished.

So, if you want to drop the FG a few points and don't mind a little more alcohol than the recipe was targeting, tossing in a quarter-pound shot of sugar or sugar syrup should get you closer to your goal. Normally I probably wouldn't do that with a recipe that's already 20% sugar, but if Butterpants is right and Duvel uses closer to 30%, I don't see how a bit more would hurt your recipe.

This information is absolutely correct. Adding simple sugar will raise the gravity, re-energize the yeast and eventually lower the FG.
 
It won't lower gravity, but it will change the perception of sweetness. Its an enzyme that works on the proteins in the beer.
 
It won't lower gravity, but it will change the perception of sweetness. Its an enzyme that works on the proteins in the beer.

I call bull****, sorry.

Beano ( alpha-galactosidase) will certainly cause this but not clarity ferm. CF doesn't work on sugars/starches at all, which (an unwanted overabundance) are the result of underattenuation. CF keeps polyphenols (tannins) from complexing and dropping out of solution to cause haze.
 
I love CF... use it in every brew since discovering it. I've never done a side by side test fermented with and without....but I really don't see how it's going to help an attenuation problem post-ferment ya know.
 
Not sure, I've heard it works post-ferment, but I have not tried that. 1.014 isn't really a problem so I figured the suggestion to be valid.

Another thing you could try is adding corn sugar to restart fermentation and perhaps get the yeast to eat more of the extract residuals.
 
Nuke it with a starter of 3711. That will take it down. Maybe farther than you want, but it will take it down.
 
Don't discount the perception of dryness carbonation will give it. A highly carbed Belgian tastes a lot different than the hydro sample.
 
Going to buy a new keg at lhbs today, then I'll take an fg before putting it away. I got a couple of additional days of airlock activity agreed above post, so I'm hoping it'll settle in just right
 
Nuke it with a starter of 3711. That will take it down. Maybe farther than you want, but it will take it down.

This works. Could also use packet of dry belle saison. Keep in mind it will not only dry out your beer but slightly change taste, clarity, and carbonation level if bottling. Maybe all changes for the better depending on what you like.
 
This works. Could also use packet of dry belle saison. Keep in mind it will not only dry out your beer but slightly change taste, clarity, and carbonation level if bottling. Maybe all changes for the better depending on what you like.

It will not really change the taste. The primary yeast has taken it down far enough that the flavor will not change enough to taste. It also will not change the carbonation level either if you wait until it is done before uou bottle. The carbonation level is determined by the amount of sugar abvailable for the yeast to work on. If it is done, then it is easy to calculate the carbonation level using the proper amount of sugar.
 
Nuke it with a starter of 3711. That will take it down. Maybe farther than you want, but it will take it down.

LOL, I like the thought of nuking a brew by tossing in a infamously beastly yeast. Someone get the launch codes
 

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