How are people doing transfers? Are you connecting CO2 line to the carb stone to pressurize tank for transfer?
Did the price of the 14 gal version go up by $100 recently? I could have sworn they were $999.
I don't see any changes so it's likely just they wanted to make more money and figured people would pay, especially with the holidays almost here. I was considering a second down the road, not a chance at that price though.
Did the price of the 14 gal version go up by $100 recently? I could have sworn they were $999.
They should have made the 7 gallon 799 and the 14 left at 999. If got mine for 999 and while it's nice, it is not worth 1100 without accessories
Did the price of the 14 gal version go up by $100 recently? I could have sworn they were $999.
You are correct. I noticed SS jacked the price of the glycol chiller up a few hundred $$ since it debuted as well. That's the reason I ended up with the Penguin Chiller. I can't stand it when prices go UP (with no extra value).
I almost didn't buy the Penguin Chiller when the price moved from $799 to $859 - however, it turns out that they decided to include the shipping and call it 'Ships Free' now. It's the same price, as shipping was always $60. I would not have ordered it had they just jacked the price up like SS does.
Does anyone have quick disconnects (sealing ones) on the glycol lines to the coil they could link? I need to get something so I can move it around easier.
I just ordered the morebeer quick disconnects for my new penguin with a bme and cf10......they are 1/4 flow instead of 5/16 or 3/8 which is my only concern....but they were the only ones i could find that had shut offs so i didnt leak glycol everytime i cleaned my conical
https://www.morebeer.com/products/beer-gas-quick-connect-inline-set-shutoff.html
Does anyone have quick disconnects (sealing ones) on the glycol lines to the coil they could link? I need to get something so I can move it around easier.
+1 on these QDs. I don't use insulation on my line though. I bought thicker tubing which has minimized condensation but hasn't totally eliminated it.
That blue tubing you see on the wall is silicone insulated heater hose...that is what I used....it does still present some condensation. I am having trouble getting my fermenter below 40F so I tried the insulation....didn't make any difference.
I did a pre-order of my 14G tank in July (received in Oct) and it was $999...then I added the FTSs Cool and heat option which drove the price up, but the base price was $999. I looked today and it has moved to $1099 for the base tank, of course that includes all the fittings, clamps and gaskets you need.
They recently released the 7G version at $899, so I think the scant $100 difference between the 7G and 14G at $999 was simply too close so they shifted the price point apart a bit.
Selling point is that this is a dream come true system.
Where can i find the connection you have their for kegging?
I used these dual QDs from USPlastic they are 3/8" barb and 1/4" flow but they seem to work well. They are also kinda spendy but you only need half as many.
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=118169
I think this may answer your question....I bought a 1.5" TriClamp fitting that has a liquid post built into it which I clamp on the uni tanks' racking arm valve along with a small sight glass to watch for trub pickup. I made a transfer line with 5/16" clear tubing and two ball lock liquid QDs. Pressurize the tank and push beer into keg.
I bought the 1.5" TC to liquid post from Bobby_M at brewhardware.
Can you post a photo of this set up? How are you pushing CO2 through the line to purge it of air before you transfer beer into the keg?
Link for the liquid out 1.5" TC fitting: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15bll.htm
Look at the attached pic and note the TC liquid out post on the racking arm.
I personally think it's a bit easier to use an MFL triclamp connector. That way you only have to connect one of the ball lock liquid connectors. It's also cheaper.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15flare.htm
I'll be glad to take a few pics and post. I'm doing an Oyster Stout tomorrow, so when I am mashing and boiling, I'll take a cell phone pic.
The transfer line I made is 4' long with liquid QD's on both ends. I'll have my keg sanitized and purged ready to receive beer from the tank. I will have my transfer line sanitized by pushing star san thru it from the keg being sanitized while I hold the spring loaded QD center post depressed with a pencil size SS rod I picked up somewhere. When I get ready to pump beer thru this transfer line, my uni tank is pressurized and I push some beer thru while holding down that center post until beer runs into a cup and this is clearing out all O2. Then I push the QD on the receiving keg liquid post and transfer begins.
Link for the liquid out 1.5" TC fitting: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15bll.htm
Look at the attached pic and note the TC liquid out post on the racking arm.
Yeah, samples from the sample valve. Easy and no risk of making a giant mess.
You can pretty easily rotate the valve assembly to spin the racking arm up or down. I thought at first it might be difficult or that you'd have to loosen it up and risk spilling beer everywhere but nope... it simply turns.
Nice. Did you rig up a shut-off valve as well?
I'll be glad to take a few pics and post. I'm doing an Oyster Stout tomorrow, so when I am mashing and boiling, I'll take a cell phone pic.
The transfer line I made is 4' long with liquid QD's on both ends. I'll have my keg sanitized and purged ready to receive beer from the tank. I will have my transfer line sanitized by pushing star san thru it from the keg being sanitized while I hold the spring loaded QD center post depressed with a pencil size SS rod I picked up somewhere. When I get ready to pump beer thru this transfer line, my uni tank is pressurized and I push some beer thru while holding down that center post until beer runs into a cup and this is clearing out all O2. Then I push the QD on the receiving keg liquid post and transfer begins.
Link for the liquid out 1.5" TC fitting: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15bll.htm
Look at the attached pic and note the TC liquid out post on the racking arm.
So youre not keeping the receiving keg under pressure/trying to do a counter pressure transfer? Doesnt your beer foam up as it goes into the keg? Or is the PRV closed creating back pressure?
Receiving keg is under pressure. Haven't tried pushing beer into a non-pressurized keg, but I suspect carbed beer would make a mess. I use a spunding valve (on the gas post/receiving keg) I got from Williams Brewing, and set the relief pressure at around...3psi. Then the uni-tank or donor tank needs to be slightly above that pressure...say 6psi. Transfer is pretty slow, but I don't get foaming with the counter pressure. I sit my keg on a scale, zero out the tare weight, then push beer until the keg hits 42.5 lbs. Since I am filling more than one keg, I need to know when to stop the flow.
Receiving keg is under pressure. Haven't tried pushing beer into a non-pressurized keg, but I suspect carbed beer would make a mess. I use a spunding valve (on the gas post/receiving keg) I got from Williams Brewing, and set the relief pressure at around...3psi. Then the uni-tank or donor tank needs to be slightly above that pressure...say 6psi. Transfer is pretty slow, but I don't get foaming with the counter pressure. I sit my keg on a scale, zero out the tare weight, then push beer until the keg hits 42.5 lbs. Since I am filling more than one keg, I need to know when to stop the flow.
I'm trying to wrap my brain around this too. So the beer in the Uni-tank is not-carbed, partially-carbed, or fully carbed when it goes into the keg? And when you put approximately 6psi on the donor vessel, the beer should flow into the pressurized keg (assuming that the spunding valve is set to something lower than 6 psi, hence the keg will be at a lower pressure than the donor vessel, and flow will move forward accordingly...Am I understanding this correctly?
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