Do you need a 1 off Stainless part built for your system? Let's discuss it.
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I'm looking for ~3 corny lids with thermowells built in like you made for schematix earlier in this thread. These will be for pressure fermenting so I don't want blow off tubes, just the thermowell. Price and availability?
I'm curious about this as well. Also, how does that work, twisting the lid through the keg lid hole with a long thermowell in the way?
Just guessing here but looking at Schematix pics, it shows the PRV has been moved to the end and the thermowell is in the center. I had/have the same question.
@Jaybird - what's my cut for sending these guys over here???? 
The PRV wasn't moved. These were brand new lids with a hole drilled and a (shortened) thermowell welded in place. The thermowell is only about 6" long.
The PRV wasn't moved. These were brand new lids with a hole drilled and a (shortened) thermowell welded in place. The thermowell is only about 6" long.
@Jaybird - what's my cut for sending these guys over here????
The PRV wasn't moved. These were brand new lids with a hole drilled and a (shortened) thermowell welded in place. The thermowell is only about 6" long.
Only 6" long, eh? Might not work well for small batches. What about instead of welding a thermowell a fitting was installed that could accept the thermowell after the lid is in place. The fitting would have to be robust enough to hold up to pressure. I'm imagining just like another liquid post with the center drilled out and sealed up some way.
Get a 2.5 gallon keg for small batches.... problem solved.
There are documented ways to do this with a fitting. I didn't want more crevices and threads for crud to collect so i went the welded route.
OP
OP
PM inboud
PM inbound
@Jaybird - what's my cut for sending these guys over here????
The PRV wasn't moved. These were brand new lids with a hole drilled and a (shortened) thermowell welded in place. The thermowell is only about 6" long.
Your cut? It's the good in knowing you kept my 3 kids off the streets and kept their fathers store up and running for at least 1 more week...LOL
Thanks buddy!
Cheers
Jay
RTL
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Any chance you got to this? Thanks.
OP
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After doing yours and you getting them in and out of the kegs several times now, do you think we could add an inch or 2 to those and they still fit?
Cheers
Jay
I am going to say no, but let me fiddle with them tonight or tomorrow (i'm brewing sunday so all 3 are on standby and i have to clean them anyways) and i'll report back. My recollection is that i've had the thermowell hit the inside wall of the keg before and i had to make a second attempt to get it in.
Documented ways to do it with a fitting that can hold up to relatively higher pressures?
What I'm talking about is welded fittings and no more places for nasties to hide than there are already are in a standard beer or gas post.
How high of a pressure are you planning to use??? I only primary under max 5 psi, then rack it out to a keg with a regular lid.
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[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyzWuzU37K4[/ame]
A few of the parts in this video (the Krausen Catcher and the 1.5" TC blowoff) are a couple of my favorites! Not sure if the directly came from this thread exactly or not but still a couple great ones dreamed up in part by this thread. I started using it myself for the CO2 reservoir for my conical and couldn't be happier!
Cheers
Jay
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
Nice video, what conical is that, very nice
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Its just some China thing we got like 5 years ago by a vendor that shipped the wrong size. I have so much invested in the shipping we cant afford to sell it..Or at least nobody will buy it for what we have in it. Especially these days with the Ss stuff out there.....So it sits and sits and sits.. Why? You want to buy it?
Cheers
Jay
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
Its just some China thing we got like 5 years ago by a vendor that shipped the wrong size. I have so much invested in the shipping we cant afford to sell it..Or at least nobody will buy it for what we have in it. Especially these days with the Ss stuff out there.....So it sits and sits and sits.. Why? You want to buy it?
Cheers
Jay
Just never saw that style if lid clamp before, looked interesting. I will buy it for the right price
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Just never saw that style if lid clamp before, looked interesting. I will buy it for the right price
PM me an offer I can't understand.
Cheers
Jay
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
OP
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SOLD! I fixed the price for you. I totally forget zeros in stuff ALL THE TIME TOO....LOL
Its a 7 gallon.
Cheers
Jay
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
cold crash pics, note the water/sanitizer it brought into the jar (instead of my fermenter)
Are you still using this? Do you purge your jar first of o2. Do you feel fermentation clears out the 02, especially with the hose at the bottom? Want to do the same with my 15 gallon conical, headspace is 3 gallons. You think one 64 oz jar is enough? Should I go with two?
MidAtlanticBrew
Well-Known Member
I don't recommend. The issue is jar size. I found one gallon was usually enough but the last time I used it I had (2)1/2 gallon jars daisy chained and got dangerously close to sucking water into the fermenter. How much volume you need is function of headspace in fermenter, the change in temperature, and the residual CO2 in the beer. This last factor is often overlooked, even dismissed by some. It matters because the CO2 in the headspace not only "contracts" when you crash, which everybody agrees with, but it also goes into solution. If you have a lot of residual CO2 in solution in the beer, then you don't have to account for it, if you don't then you need more jar capacity
Meh why cold crash? Add gelatin let it settle and pour at high PSI for first pint or so, if you're careful clear beer isn't hard but it'll come no matter what. I used a daisy chain for fermentation and give it time
Jaybird,
I need a few thermowells with 1/2" NPT with short stems, stems just long enough to put it in the middle of a 1/2" tee fitting like so:
Basically I need exactly those thermowells without the attached digital probes.
Source: https://store.brewpi.com/temperature-control/temperature-sensors/threaded-onewire-temperature-sensor
I need a few thermowells with 1/2" NPT with short stems, stems just long enough to put it in the middle of a 1/2" tee fitting like so:
Basically I need exactly those thermowells without the attached digital probes.
Source: https://store.brewpi.com/temperature-control/temperature-sensors/threaded-onewire-temperature-sensor
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Jaybird,
I need a few thermowells with 1/2" NPT with short stems, stems just long enough to put it in the middle of a 1/2" tee fitting like so:
Basically I need exactly those thermowells without the attached digital probes.
Source: https://store.brewpi.com/temperature-control/temperature-sensors/threaded-onewire-temperature-sensor
What sized FEMALE threads do you want on the bushing?
Jay
None necessary.
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OP
Let me play with a few parts and see how easy we can do this. No threads needed but is it OK if they are there? Like 1/4" FNPT? You said you need a few? So 3 total? Do you need the TEES as well?
Cheers
Jay
I'd hate for you to go to too much trouble. The ones in the brewpi website are at about $23 ea including shipping. If it looks like too much work don't worry about it.
Sure, that's fine.
I'd need 4.
Yes I do.
MidAtlanticBrew
Well-Known Member
I have vegan friends. I now cold crash with make-up CO2 instead of daisy chained jars. Why? I like everything fast, so fast that I sometimes cold crash before I pitch....really fast ....because I like fast....really fast ...
jcc4507fly
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Yeah, as best I can tell. I had a German pils cold crash while I was in CA this last week. All was in place. It does pull fluid from one mason jar to the next though not much. I have yet to see it bubble air back through. I have done about 6 brews and haven't observed bubbling back or suck back on any of those brews.
The one caveat is that there is a bit of a vacuum created after cold crashing. So when I transfer to keg I lift up on the pressure release valve of my conical so it doesn't pull air through my beer at the ball valve.
I have been kicking around the idea of asking Jay to make a blow assembly that would basically be a short triclamp extension tube with the blow off coming off the side between the ends. That way I can attach my ball valve to triclamp part to the top. This way I could give it a little gas and break the vacuum. Though I'm not really worrying about the whole Low D.O. thing, so I'm not really convinced I need to worry about all that.
lupulinaddict
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Jaybird, can you make the wall flange for faucets? I was looking for some thicker ones so I can pull my my faucets away from the wall about an inch and a half, or more. I would need six, can you shoot me a quote when you get time? Thank you!
OP
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I am sure we could come up with something for you if we got creative. But all those flanges are stamped or injection molded.
Is it you need to move them because of your tap handles? If that is the case we sell a bonnet angler. That will make your tap handles stand straight up and not angled back to the wall.
Cheers
Jay
lupulinaddict
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I bought one of those to try and it's not enough clearance. It is for the handles, and need something so I can finish my keezer. I basically built a coffin box with a flip top for access to the faucets and some display bottles, but with larger brewery handles I don't have room for my granite top front edge. I can make some out of wood or make a full board to push them out to what I need, but just seeing if you had made something like that before, or what a cost would be for stainless ones. Thanks!
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Just fired up the kettle we designed and built for Waganupa brewing company! It easily is removed with a few button screws. they are running a 330,000 BTU burner and was running it full tilt! NOW they can't run it any higher than about 25% or it boils too hard! They are SO $toked! They just increased boiler/gas efficiency by 75%.
This was such a fun project!
Cheers
Jay
This was such a fun project!
Cheers
Jay
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I have a request.
I need two 3/4" tri-clap caps that have the mounting thread for standard keg taps on them. So basically I need the caps to have those threads so that I could screw on a standard ball lock post (one has gas, one has liquid), and use the standard dip tube setup. I can post a picture of the one I started to make before I just ran out of time to finish this.
I need two 3/4" tri-clap caps that have the mounting thread for standard keg taps on them. So basically I need the caps to have those threads so that I could screw on a standard ball lock post (one has gas, one has liquid), and use the standard dip tube setup. I can post a picture of the one I started to make before I just ran out of time to finish this.
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So just to be clear. You want
QTY 1, 3/4" TC with a 19/32 connection and Ball Lock GAS in and QTY 1 Beer Out on the other. Do you want dip tubes with them? We can do those IF there is enough real estate on the cap for the weld adapter! Do you need clamps and gaskets?
Shoot me a PM
Cheers
Jay
Jay, how about a 1/4" FFL to 1/4" male NPT adapter for connecting a QD to a 1/4" tee for use as a Spunding valve? They seem to be the unicorns of the homebrew world.
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