DIY Tap Handles: Any Tips for Centering the Threads?

[elganso]

Tried my hand at doing some simple tap handles over the weekend using converted table legs. I had a pretty rough time trying to get the thread screwed into the bottom of the wood so that it was straight up and down (i.e., when I put it on the faucet, the handle was not 100% perpendicular, but slightly on an angle).

So, two questions:

1) Wondering, generally, if anyone has tips for getting the threads centered so they're not angled to the left or right when screwed into the faucet.

2) If you have a tap handle that has a "front" to it, any tips on ensuring the threads line up so that the front is actually on front after it's fully screwed onto the faucet?

I suppose I could always drill a larger hole, attach the threads to the faucet and then epoxy the tap handles to the inserts... but figured there must be some non-kludgey way to accomplish this. Cheers in advance.

 

[Yuri_Rage]

A lathe will give you the answer you seek. Everything else is likely to be a kludge.

 

[elganso]

Agreed on the lathe for the "straightness" of the handle itself. However, for this project, the problem was in my insertion of the threaded piece, not the handle itself (i.e., TAPHANDLE THREADED INSERT @ Williams Brewing).

Maybe it's just a matter of playing with it...

 

[runningweird]

I made mine from random stuff I bought at the Habitat for Humanity Restore and Home Depot - with the inserts mentioned above. Without a lathe I had to use a paddle bit and approximate the middle of the handle as best I could My process was the following:

Drill hole to a depth where the insert was flush with the end of the tap
mix JB weld and allow to cure for about 1.5 hours until it was nice and stiff but still workable
place JB weld in hole and work around the entire surface - place threaded insert inside and use a flat surface to align the bottom of the handle and the insert bottom. All my handles are at the same angle.

I bet you could work out a makeshift lathe with a few 2x4 scraps and a power drill mounted with hose clamps.

 

[Homercidal]

You could build a jig to hold a bit straight up and down (or more precisely, perpendicular to the plane you are drilling into).

It's simply a drill bushing welded onto a flat piece of metal. They make drill guides for drilling into the ends of boards. Same concept, but without the edge guide, just the flat part.

EDIT:
Like this:

 

[elganso]

@ runningweird -- thanks for the info. So, rather than screwing it into the wood, you're using the JB Weld to secure the metal in place. I presume you're using something like a 5/8 bit instead of a 1/2 bit so it doesn't need to be screwed into the wood? I think this was my main trouble -- I needed a bit of force to screw the metal threading into the wood (oak), so it was quite difficult to get it straight on top of that.

@ Homercidal -- that's great; I didn't know such things existed. I could see a use for this type of guide on a ton of projects.

 

[Brandonovich]

I made a jig out of a 2 X 4. I basically cut a V groove into the faces of two scraps from a 2 X 4. You stand these on end with the V's facing each other and clamp them together with the tap handle between to two of them and it holds it perfectly straight. You then need a drill press and just drill down exactly in the center. I do not have pictures, but this worked really well. As far as screwing in the insert, I have not found a good way to do it yet. The best way I found is to clamp a piece of steel into a vice and use that as your screwdriver. You leave just the edge of the steel sitting up above the vise and for that into the grooves on the insert. Then you can lean on it and turn the tap handle itself rather than the insert. Turn it about a half turn, then back off to let the chips clear, and then go a half turn further. I am usually sore for a day or two after doing this, but it got the insert in.

 

[runningweird]

@ runningweird -- thanks for the info. So, rather than screwing it into the wood, you're using the JB Weld to secure the metal in place. I presume you're using something like a 5/8 bit instead of a 1/2 bit so it doesn't need to be screwed into the wood? I think this was my main trouble -- I needed a bit of force to screw the metal threading into the wood (oak), so it was quite difficult to get it straight on top of that.

@ Homercidal -- that's great; I didn't know such things existed. I could see a use for this type of guide on a ton of projects.

Yeah, a slightly bigger bit. Don't remember the size, just large enough for them insert to slide in and out. Whenever I tried screwing them in the insert always went crooked so I tried something else.. I can post pics of what they look like tonight, or see them in my build pics below.

 

[225]

Agreed on the lathe for the "straightness" of the handle itself. However, for this project, the problem was in my insertion of the threaded piece, not the handle itself (i.e., TAPHANDLE THREADED INSERT @ Williams Brewing).

Maybe it's just a matter of playing with it...

Thanks for that link. I just ordered 10 of them!

 

[elganso]

I am usually sore for a day or two after doing this, but it got the insert in.

heh. That's about how I felt after trying to squeeze that thread in there using a metal file lengthwise as a makeshift screwdriver. I may give your "V" method a try during drilling -- it was a bit iffy trying to secure rounded pieces in the vice otherwise.

I can post pics of what they look like tonight, or see them in my build pics below.

Those look great (and, awesome cooling setup, btw!). Was doing something similar with table leg inserts. I would eventually be keen on trying my hand at a lathe (I've got a friend who will lend me his), but wanted to go with an initial step up from the plastic handles that came with the faucets. Thanks for the tips on "epoxy method".

 

[elganso]

For posterity, Amazon carries these EZ-LOK threads and a tool/bit to handle the 1/2 inch screw diameter:

-- E-Z LOK Threaded Insert: Part 400-6 ($7 for a 10-pack)

Amazon.com: E-Z LOK Threaded Insert For Hard Wood, 3/8-16 Int Thread - Brass (Pack of 10): Industrial & Scientific


-- E-Z LOK Drive Tool: Part 500-5 ($14)

Amazon.com: E-Z LOK Drive Tool - Optional - Use with 329-6, 329-601, 329-624, 303-6, 303-624, 319-6, 319-624, 335-6, 450-10, 550-6, 650-10, 650-10F, 453-10, 653-10, 653-10F, 400-6, 400-624,: Industrial & Scientific


McMaster also has these in their catalog (threads were a bit more expensive; drive tool was a bit less, but amazon had free shipping).

Threads fit great on my perlicks. Drive tool fits these threads like a glove.

For what it's worth...

 

[watchir]

For posterity, Amazon carries these EZ-LOK threads and a tool/bit to handle the 1/2 inch screw diameter:

-- E-Z LOK Threaded Insert: Part 400-6 ($7 for a 10-pack)

Amazon.com: E-Z LOK Threaded Insert For Hard Wood, 3/8-16 Int Thread - Brass (Pack of 10): Industrial & Scientific


-- E-Z LOK Drive Tool: Part 500-5 ($14)

Amazon.com: E-Z LOK Drive Tool - Optional - Use with 329-6, 329-601, 329-624, 303-6, 303-624, 319-6, 319-624, 335-6, 450-10, 550-6, 650-10, 650-10F, 453-10, 653-10, 653-10F, 400-6, 400-624,: Industrial & Scientific


McMaster also has these in their catalog (threads were a bit more expensive; drive tool was a bit less, but amazon had free shipping).

Threads fit great on my perlicks. Drive tool fits these threads like a glove.

For what it's worth...

Thanks for the links, this looks perfect, and that tool *should* make it alot easier!