So how do you estimate or monitor the pressure level?
I'm guessing with a regulator the loose hose attaches to.
Haven't seen that before. Does it basically just pump the beer in circulation while injecting CO2? Awesome!
So how do you estimate or monitor the pressure level?
Do you purging the head space before you start, or is the keg pressurized somehow?Yup! Cold crash it to temp for beer style. Set the regulator accordingly and let it cycle until it reaches equalization. About 45-1hr. Works perfectly.
Do you purging the head space before you start, or is the keg pressurized somehow?
Did you do something to the gas post to get the beer to return below the surface?
Looks pretty straightforward, what's the specifications on the circulating pump?
Link to pump? Amazon? Ebay?12V DC, self priming with 35psi pressure switch. 1.1 GPM. Very inexpensive setup.
Parts list? Are you using a air stone in the T fitting?
Good stuff! I recently purchased the genuine quick carb. Question for you- is 20psi your standard pressure using your diy device? What temp beer are you carbing?Put together this quick carb system for a third of the price of The Blichmann one. Works flawlessly and properly carbs my beer in an hour. View attachment 566168
First time using this today so take my advice as you wish....I think it would be fine. I don’t see how gas in the co2 line would affect this. I have read about other posters burping their kegs howeverQuestion: if the level of your beer is below the gas in tube, wouldn't the agitation cause it to foam in the keg or is the pressure in the headspace enough to counteract that? Looks like a sweet setup either way.
Not sure on excess tubing. I tried to replicate Blichmann's as closely as possible. If I remember correctly I thought there was a reason for 3 ft beer line on the beer out end (after passing through the "T". One thing I would do is to build this with a checkvalve at the gas port. I had a mess after gas reached equilibrium in the keg and beer back flowed into CO2 line (can be easily done by purchasing a check valve integrated ball lock gas port)Hey sorry to necro this thread but thinking about throwing this together this weekend. Any reason why there needs to be so much excess tubing? Was thinking all the components could fit in a small project box with the ports and switch on the outside to make it very “clean” and to allow it to fit and run inside my fridge to help maintain temp but was worried the actually length of tubing is part of the engineering helping the gas absorb? Any thoughts? Awesome work on this thing!
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