What I found that fit that nut was a pressure washer quick disconnect in the big box stores
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DIY Beer Line Cleaner
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What I found that fit that nut was a pressure washer quick disconnect in the big box stores
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Thanks for the response....
Any reason why a barbed end would not work like this:
I also found the 3/8 quick disconnect like you were talking about but the quick disconnect plus the other end to fit on the beer line would be like 8.50 plus 4.00 bucks or something where the barbed end by itself would only cost about 3.50?
Also what size tubing did you use between the brass fitting and the sprayer....the tubing in the pic that I found worked decent (although it was kind of hard to push on the sprayer end) was 1/2 OD and 3/8 ID.
Thanks again for the assistance!
Thanks for the response....
Any reason why a barbed end would not work like this:
I could not find one in stores local to me that had the same thread as the nut from the beer coupler. There were a couple that were close but if I felt it was too loose or I was forcing it on I felt it would end up leaking. I had the benefit of having a couple of those nuts from the coupler with me from my kegerator build when I cut them off the lines. I knew my inability to throw anything away would come in handy some day.
Ah just realized the one I took the picture of was the one I was experimenting with the female disconnect. Hence why that one has the quick disconnect to female thread and then a male to male adapter. I thought having the quick disconnect might come in handy but turned out to be more expensive and believe it didn't work as well also. I was building 2 and ended up leaving one of that way since I already had the parts. The other one I built I got it down to 1 adapter. I'll put a list of what I bought in the end and what I would go with if I was building another one.
These are the parts I bought to build this. I tend to go to Lowes so thats where these are from. your picture looks like it's at HD but I'm sure you can find something similar there
2 gallon Plastic Sprayer Item#303427 $15.97
http://www.lowes.com/pd_303427-78071-16200MP___?Ntt=303427&UserSearch=303427&productId=1000004564
Male Quick Disconnect Plug x Male Metric (M22 I believe) Item#210556 $4.98
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...mber=210556-60455-SGY-PWA26&storeId=10151&N=0
2x 1/4in-5/8in Hose Clamps Item#92897 $0.68
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...rtNumber=92897-33599-CL4PK2&storeId=10151&N=0
1.5 ft - 5/8" OD 1/2" ID Tubing Item#652379 $0.90
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...Number=652379-71925-7006PNL&storeId=10151&N=0
2x 5/16inx3/4in Neoprene Fender Washer Item#136598 $0.92
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...tNumber=136598-37672-880370&storeId=10151&N=0
So total comes to $23.45+tax
I found there was too much play between nut and coupler so I put two of those neoprene washers in the nut on the beer lines to remove that play and make sure nut sealed to the line. Worked well and didn't leak, just have to make sure you have a few of them on hand in case they get lost and took them out before reattaching to the coupler.
Here is the whole assembly:
Mods hope posting all the links is not an issue if it is let me know and I can remove them.
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eba3317-
Thanks for all the information...including the prices / links of the actual stuff you bought that def will make it easier if only.....
I did not hit another bump in the road...I figured I would double check my connections on my kegerator this morning and the hose line does not attach to the coupler like I originally thought (with the screw on nut). My connection has a barbed end that the hose line goes down over with a hose clamp? Now I am really confused on what I need to do...the screw on nut goes to the CO2 tank.
Do I need to get a different coupler to make all this work...? Any thoughts from anyone out there?
Thanks for all the information...including the prices / links of the actual stuff you bought that def will make it easier if only.....
I did not hit another bump in the road...I figured I would double check my connections on my kegerator this morning and the hose line does not attach to the coupler like I originally thought (with the screw on nut). My connection has a barbed end that the hose line goes down over with a hose clamp? Now I am really confused on what I need to do...the screw on nut goes to the CO2 tank.
Do I need to get a different coupler to make all this work...? Any thoughts from anyone out there?
That wing nut is the same connector as the CO2 line. The same solution applies.
Thanks for the feedback...I def know that the barbed end unscrews from the top handle because I have take it apart to clean and replace a washer I believe. If that is the case than I think I just need to get a female adapter for the barbed end.
I wasn't sure if that entire top handle piece was supposed to unscrew from the top of the coupler or not. I could have swore I have tried to unscrew it before but it just turns and turns to no avail
You'd use the same male adapter, screw the wing nut onto that, and pump your solution through. Unles I'm missing your question?
LBussy-
First let me thank you for your patience...as you can see I am a complete novice when it comes to this but def trying.
What I am trying to ask is...do I just unscrew the "barbed" fitting where the beer line goes in (red arrow) or do I try to unscrew the entire T-handle fitting from the top of the coupler (black arrows)? Hope the pic makes sense...
The wing-nut (t-handle or black arrows) holds the barb fitting against the tap itself. So when you remove that you will have the barb fitting still sort of inside the wingnut. Then you screw the wing-nut (with a washer or two) against the male fitting shown above on the cleaning setup. The wing nut will clamp the barb fitting (basically a flat face) against the male adapter up there (another flat face) with a washer in between.
Once you take it apart (untap the keg first and relieve the pressure) you will see exactly what I mean. It's the same fitting as the red CO2 line, just easier to unscrew.
The brass fitting that @eba3317 shows up there looks as if it will work. If you really want a purpose-built one, here's one from Beveragefactory:
Either one will allow you to remove the wingnut from your keg coupler and attach it to your cleaning line.
Once you take it apart (untap the keg first and relieve the pressure) you will see exactly what I mean. It's the same fitting as the red CO2 line, just easier to unscrew.
The brass fitting that @eba3317 shows up there looks as if it will work. If you really want a purpose-built one, here's one from Beveragefactory:
Either one will allow you to remove the wingnut from your keg coupler and attach it to your cleaning line.
LBussy-
That def clears it up and thanks for breaking that down...appreciate it! Now I understand the entire wing nut "should" come off the top of the coupler and contain the barb still screwed inside.
My only question is if I unscrew the wing nut from the top of the coupler that will be a "female" end in which I would screw a "male" brass fitting as the one that eba3317 suggested correct?
http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=348813&stc=1&d=1459786231
or possibly the one I found yesterday at HD:
http://s431.photobucket.com/user/michael-dd/media/20160404_125852_zps6e9gs7ha.jpg.html
Thanks again!
Yes the wing nut is the female side. It should work with the setup I posted as the thread type should be the same
Just wanted to follow up and post back a picture of my completed line cleaner
Special thanks to eba3317 and lubssy for all the assistance.
Only small issue I had was a leak where the beer line connects to newly installed adapter but a secondary washer took care of that. And then a leak where the newly installed line tubing connects to the sprayer was leaking but I cranked the hose clamp as tight as I could and it pretty much handled that.
Special thanks to eba3317 and lubssy for all the assistance.
Only small issue I had was a leak where the beer line connects to newly installed adapter but a secondary washer took care of that. And then a leak where the newly installed line tubing connects to the sprayer was leaking but I cranked the hose clamp as tight as I could and it pretty much handled that.
Just wanted to follow up and post back a picture of my completed line cleaner
Special thanks to eba3317 and lubssy for all the assistance.
Only small issue I had was a leak where the beer line connects to newly installed adapter but a secondary washer took care of that. And then a leak where the newly installed line tubing connects to the sprayer was leaking but I cranked the hose clamp as tight as I could and it pretty much handled that.
Glad to see you got it working!
I think this has been posted before, but to give others who haven't seen it a low cost easy alternative, here is my beer beer line cleaner.
$15 for the carbonation cap and an empty 2 liter ginger ale bottle...
$15 for the carbonation cap and an empty 2 liter ginger ale bottle...
BlurryEyed
Well-Known Member
I don't see how this works...there's no exhaust port so the bottle would just crush itself, am I wrong?
It reminds me of the cleaning kit that comes with some kegerators. For $15, I think you would have been better off building the pump sprayer. Just my 2 cents
... you can get those carb caps in plastic for about $3 in some places.
It works just fine. It's the only thing I've used to clean, flush and sanitize the lines on my 3 tap keezer over the last year and I see no need or reason to change what I'm doing.
I'm in no way trying to dissuade anyone from making the pump sprayer nor trying to put it down. Just posted to provide an alternate.
That's true. You can get the plastic carb caps and it would work in the same way that I'm using mine for. But the plastic caps don't have the barb fitting. The barb allows you to add a semi rigid beer line and convert it to a counter pressure bottle filler. Even though I've never used it for that...
BlurryEyed
Well-Known Member
It works just fine. It's the only thing I've used to clean, flush and sanitize the lines on my 3 tap keezer over the last year and I see no need or reason to change what I'm doing.
I'm in no way trying to dissuade anyone from making the pump sprayer nor trying to put it down. Just posted to provide an alternate.
Do you just unscrew the cap to alleviate the pressure?
He's probably just squeezing the cleaner out...
Cheers
Cheers
Yep. It's just that simple.
Trippr is right too.
Sometimes I'll squeeze the cleaner/water/sanitizer out. Sometimes I'll give a shot of CO2.
If I'm doing a big flush (full 2 liter bottle), I may use a shot of CO2 after I've squeezed out 1/4-1/3 the bottle. If I'm just filling the line with cleaner or sanitizer, I'll just squeeze it out. It doesn't take much to fill a 5' 3/16" beer line.
BigTerp
Well-Known Member
These are cheap, easy and work really well!! Mine will fit both a gas and liquid QD. I charge my 2 liter bottle full of BLC with CO2. Then disconnect the gas QD, connect the liquid QD and open the tap to run BLC through. After running the BLC through and letting it sit in the lines/tap for 15 minutes I run fresh water through, again by charging with CO2. Then one final run through of Starsan. Easy peasy.
Easy peasy...
Helloworld
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I built this but it leaks where the adapter connects to the pump and where the post connects to the adapter. I've tried Teflon tape and tightening to no avail. Any tips?
Look at my post (#692) when I posted a picture of the one I just put together. I had some leaks too when I first put it together and had to add another rubber washer where the line connects to the new adapter. I also had some leaks coming out from where the tubing was connected via hose clamps but I tighten them as much as I could just shy of cracking the plastic most likely
And the leaks stopped!Just Finished this today
https://youtu.be/i97RKW5qONg
It is for use in a our 70 tap brewpub doing 16 direct draw lines at a time, but is a decently cheap and clean build.
https://youtu.be/i97RKW5qONg
It is for use in a our 70 tap brewpub doing 16 direct draw lines at a time, but is a decently cheap and clean build.
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Cool, but ^that^ should have its own thread. This one is about a specific solution...
Cheers!
Cheers!
BlurryEyed
Well-Known Member
Mr_McGibblets
Active Member
Five years since the original post and still going strong!
Built mine last weekend. Had to use silicone sealant to prevent the tiny leak between the spray and the adapter.
Bought the keg post from here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151639048104
Love it and can't wait to try it out!
Built mine last weekend. Had to use silicone sealant to prevent the tiny leak between the spray and the adapter.
Bought the keg post from here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151639048104
Love it and can't wait to try it out!
I build one up with a 40oz flo-master sprayer. I took the white seal out of the green nozzle that usually sits against the sprayer and put it in my brass fitting. No leaks! Have not used it on lines but connected a spare liquid disconnect and all works great!
Sprayer: $5 (walmart)
Liquid Post: $16 shipped (brand new)
Connector: $5 (local hardware)
$26 well spent! If the sprayer has an issue, I can buy another
Sprayer: $5 (walmart)
Liquid Post: $16 shipped (brand new)
Connector: $5 (local hardware)
$26 well spent! If the sprayer has an issue, I can buy another
Has anyone else had this fail on them after a few months?
I built mine in March, it has worked well before. Today I pumped it up and barely got a trickle. It holds pressure. It may be that I stored it with the trigger depressed and locked.
I built mine in March, it has worked well before. Today I pumped it up and barely got a trickle. It holds pressure. It may be that I stored it with the trigger depressed and locked.
I'm not poo-pooing on this thread, but I got to the point that paying about $20-$25 more for a sump pump over this mod was worth it. I didn't like the idea of having to keep pumping the sprayer to maintain pressure. If I didn't, I'd get the trickle sometimes too, so maybe there was a leak in my line somewhere.
The sprayer pump is pretty much just for beer line cleaning. I can do that with the sump pump, plus clean my carboys, kegs, and it can recirculate water through my chiller to keep from wasting water out of the faucet. Also, the idea of just letting the pump recirculate cleaner while I was off doing something else.
I donated mine to my club so it's still definitely usable.
I'm going to start kegging soon and got a kegerator. When I'm cleaning the keg I'll clean that line it was just on so is there any reason why I couldn't pull the liquid post off the keg and connect it to this pump (as long as it fits)? Then just clean the post and reattach to keg?
Sorry if this question was already answered I didn't read through all 72 pages.
Sorry if this question was already answered I didn't read through all 72 pages.
HausBrauerei_Harvey
Well-Known Member
this is how I clean my lines, sort of. I made an adapter to connect my air compressor to the gas in post, and I just use the PBW and starsan I use to clean kegs and run it through my lines from the keg. Easy and it works well.
Out of curiosity what air compressor do you use? No reason to worry about oil/nasties?
As long as you use a oiless compressor with an inline filter there's no problem. But you should be using a pretty good filter (HEPA). This is common in breweries.
I'm not following. Why take the post off the keg?
The keg will be empty because it just kicked so why not just pull the liquid out post because I'm getting ready to clean the keg anyways. Clean the lines at the same time so they're good to go before you throw the next beer on.
As long as it fits it should be ok to use right? I'm just wondering if the Teflon tape will do anything to the thread inside the post.
I think it will be okay if you are threading the post onto a metal fitting. You can clean any teflon that remains in the post or leave it. Mine has a post threaded onto the plastic, I would not remove and re-install it very often for fear of wearing out the plastic part.
The post didn't thread all the way but doing a mock trial with just water it seems like it will work (it wasn't hooked up to lines though because my kegerator is not here yet). The only issue I could see having is the spring in the post not being compressed enough since the post doesn't thread all the way. It could effect a good flow maybe?
