Differences in bottle strength?

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chibrewer

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I've been brewing for about a year, and I just had my first ever bottle bomb. I'm a little curious about this because so far only one bottle has exploded. The entire batch is somewhat overcarbonated, when I uncap them I get a little foam coming out the top, but they're not gushing by any means, so I really didn't expect any fireworks.

I did notice that the one bottle that exploded happened to be a re-used Shock Top bottle (a crappy Miller product). Does anyone know if Miller might be using cheaper/weaker bottles, or should I expect some more explosions?

Thanks
 
I don't know, but wouldn't be surprised. There's variance among brands (check out Samuel Smith bottles sometime).

Does Shock Top use twist offs? And did your glass shatter, or did the cap just pop off?
 
I don't think they use twist-off's but I could be wrong. I try to immediatly recycle any twist off bottles so I don't accidentally re-use them. I'd go check but I'm at work right now.

As for the explosion, it actually broke the glass. The majority of the bottle stayed intact, but the bottom cracked off in one piece while the rest of it shot up like a rocket.
 
Yes, I use a few different types and while most seem to have the same thickness, some are extraordinarily thin or thick in comparison to say, a Sierra Nevada bottle. Bourgogne bottles have a nice shape and are a bit thicker. Hoegaarden bottles are a bit thinner, and less brown, err, more clear than SN or Widmer Bros. I bet the color additives also affect the strength of the bottle.
 
Slightly :off: but I believe Shock Top is Michelob not Miller.

Back on topic - I've used a ton of Shock Top bottles that a friend gave me for bottles and have never had a problem with them. However I have noticed they have a slightly different shape from the standard bottle. Not sure if that makes any difference for the strength of the bottle. I think it's more probable though that the bottle that exploded was a particularly weak bottle, either because it was damaged at some point or had some flaw when it was made.

The thinnest bottles I've used by far are the ones I picked up from my LHBS when I made my first batch. Go figure. Still never had one explode though.
 
Shock Top bottles are not twist offs... I have a dozen that I received from a buddy, and they receive a crown cap. Mine haven't exploded and I have some very well carbonized wheat's in them right now though at cooler temps (low 60s).
 
Chibrew- did you use a different amount of priming sugar when you bottled or anything? I had nightmares about exploding bottles after the first time I bottled a batch of homebrew. It probably had something to do with how late I bottled and the amount of Half Acre I drank that night.

And yeah, the Shock Top label does suck. That orange with the mohawk needs to find his way to a carton of Tropicana or something.
 
Shock Top bottles are not twist offs... I have a dozen that I received from a buddy, and they receive a crown cap. Mine haven't exploded and I have some very well carbonized wheat's in them right now though at cooler temps (low 60s).

Hmm, maybe they switched bottles recently cuz that link definitely shows a twisty. I wonder if BMC is doing that with their fake-robrews now.
 
Chibrew- did you use a different amount of priming sugar when you bottled or anything? I had nightmares about exploding bottles after the first time I bottled a batch of homebrew. It probably had something to do with how late I bottled and the amount of Half Acre I drank that night.

And yeah, the Shock Top label does suck. That orange with the mohawk needs to find his way to a carton of Tropicana or something.

I used the regular amount of priming sugar, between 5 and 5.5 ounces for the batch. I'm wondering if my explosion had more to do with temperature than anything. I left town for a few days and left the air conditioning off in my apartment so I'm sure it got mighty warm. I put the rest of this batch in the fridge last night and the last one that I opened seemed much less foamy.
 
Some bottles are stronger than others, but I'd guess the bottle that exploded just had a flaw in it. Often breweries send out different styles of bottles to different markets, so a blanket statement about the style of a bottle can be misleading. There are several brands that sometimes come in a twist top and sometimes in a pry top. The shock tops around here come in twist off bottles, which I know because my step-mom drinks it, and she keeps saving the bottles for me even though I keep telling her I can't use them.
 
Some bottles are stronger than others, but I'd guess the bottle that exploded just had a flaw in it. Often breweries send out different styles of bottles to different markets, so a blanket statement about the style of a bottle can be misleading. There are several brands that sometimes come in a twist top and sometimes in a pry top. The shock tops around here come in twist off bottles, which I know because my step-mom drinks it, and she keeps saving the bottles for me even though I keep telling her I can't use them.

Interesting, that makes sense though. You should give moms some of your beer and have her save those bottles for you. Recycle your own and save mom from the shock top! :ban:
 
I'm always leary about using any bottles from the BMC's. You have to consider that they operate in an ultra high volume, low cost, competitive environment. If they can get away with saving $0.02 a bottle by making them thinner and weaker, that's millions of dollars per year in profits.
 
When I was at my LHBS recently a customer was recounting as almost identical story. The person working said they have heard that recently. That even some of the smaller breweries are using cheaper bottles to save money.
 
The old and probably no longer available returnable bottles that came in a case of 24 were much thicker than today's cheap, thin bottles used by most major breweries.

That said, I have had no problems using the thinnest bottles, even screw tops, using a bench style capper that's easy on the bottle necks when pressing down on the cap. No leaks, either, from the screw-tops!

I believe the problem you had wasn't from temperature but from one of two other things.

It could be an infection that allowed fermentation of things that the yeast would never ferment. If your beer tastes fine and not sour or has no other off-flavors, then you can probably discount this as the source of your bottle bomb.

The other thing that I can think of that might have happened is that your fermentation was not finished. It could have been "stuck" at a slightly high gravity reading and only began to continue fermenting after you added the priming sugar and possibly moved it to a warmer place that would favor fermentation.

Did you take gravity readings on three successive days to be sure that fermentation was complete? Did your final gravity reading come close to where the recipe said it should, assuming that you followed the recipe's exact procedure, didn't substitute malts, etc.?

If you bottle before fermentation is complete, it's like using too much priming sugar, only the over-carbonation may take a while to burst the bottle(s).

One thing is sure--you're likely to have more bottles burst, and it's quite dangerous. My brother had this happen and he decided to open and recap his bottles. Some of them burst while he was doing this. He got some cuts to the hand and arms, so if you do this, wear some protective clothing, face protection, and open them behind a panel or something so that you won't get glass coming toward your body.

The other thing you can do is to bury the whole batch (for safety reasons) and call it a loss.

It is unlikely, but possible, that only one bottle got an infection. But if the whole batch seems over-carbonated, maybe foaming out the top of the bottle after opening, it may only get worse.

This happens to me when I make a mead. Every time. Meads ferment so slowly so that even with yeast nutrient, a warm place, and a year's time, it isn't really completely done. Gravity readings on three successive days, even weeks, probably won't show any signs of fermentation. But after I prime with corn sugar and bottle it, it carbonates perfectly. After a couple of months, signs of over-carbonation begin to show, and around three months, the foam begins climbing out of the bottles. At that point, well before they become dangerous, I make that (mead) my only alcoholic beverage until it's gone.

If you catch a batch in the bottle moving towards over-carbonation early enough, you can take my approach and avoid the danger of bursting bottles and not lose any of your beer, either, unless you can't drink it up faster than it goes toward over-carbonation.

Hope it all works out for you, and please, be careful!

Donald
 
The bottle could have had some gunk in it that caused an infection. I've had one dirty bottle slip through on me before and it gushed to high heaven when I opened it. It's possible that it had a lot more pressure due to an infection.
 
I've found if you bottle condition too warm that the bottles carb too fast and too much and you end up with super-foamy beers, even months after bottling and sitting in the fridge.

That may have been a weak bottle that caved under the pressure or you may have inadvertantly hit it on something and created a small crack that blew out from the carb pressure.
 
The old and probably no longer available returnable bottles that came in a case of 24 were much thicker than today's cheap, thin bottles used by most major breweries.

When I bottled I used PBR and Iron City returnables, had to drink more than a few cases to get them and forfeited my $1.50 deposit.

The bottles are as thick as a crock and some are ugly as hell with scratches from the repeated bottle line.

I had to go check, but I've got a case of mead in the cellar that's about 15 years old and it's in Miller 12oz returnable bottles.

Although I've saved about a dozen cases of other non returnable bottles I don't think I've ever used them. I still rack a bottle or two from each batch while kegging but only use 25oz American Champagne bottles.

Anyhow, in many years of brewing, no bottle bombs.
 
The rule of thumb is do not use twist offs and do not use newer thinner long neck bottles. I had a whole batch of sparkling meade go nuclear on me, all but a few bottles. The difference was just that, new bottles verus old. The new bottles are not as robust as the old ones.

The other wild card is infection. I had two 16 oz bottles of (I thought) sterile wort for making yeast starters go atomic on me. No yeast was added in the bottles so I either did not sterilize them as well as I thought and there was still yeast sediment in them, or bacteria got in them. I have always heard that bacteria was the culprit when bottles of beer turn into grenades. In the event, one exploded in a cloud of foam in the kitchen, I set the other outside under a granite table on my porch, about three feet from my door. I returned home to find it had exploded and a fragment had shattered my rear storm door while striking it at about a 35 degree angle. Pretty good ballistics, wot?
 
Dude its not so much a matter of the bottle its the over-prime that will get you... I recommend you kick everything into a secondary fermentation. Run the beer through a one of your mesh hop bags & funnel and into another carboy & let it run through till your bubbler stops again. It will not only help clarify your brew, but also make sure its done fermenting. We have made several "bombs in the past" Various bottles...
Bombs tended to occur on the "BIG" beers especially if we rushed to bottle... Hope this helps... Brew On!
 
I just got a 6 pack of shock top bottles, they are very thin and NOT twist off.
 
I don't know how much headspace you leave but the only bottle bomb I ever had was when I used a 23 oz. krusovice bottle but didn't think to leave extra headspace. Now I make sure to leave lots of headspace.
 
In addition to the other comments here all bottles have a lifetime. Now most bottles are designed for single use even if they aren't twist-off. When you reuse these bottles you are already on borrowed time. After a certain number of uses they will break even without over-priming or infections.

There are differences between bottles though. I'm still pissed that my ex- threw out several 6 packs of old Young's bottles that were so thick they felt like they would last forever. The old short-neck Tsing Tao bottles were pretty sturdy though the new longnecks are thin. I used to buy Salado Creek beer for $1/bottle for the flip-top bottles since the bottles alone were more than that my homebrew store. Even though I don't think much of Bass Ale, when it is cheap I'll buy some for the sturdy imperial pint bottles. I'm also a fan of the tall 500ml german bottles; most brands are thick enough for lots of reuse.

I do occasionally loose a thin bottle that I reused who know how many times. I brew in a wine cellar and when I'm not brewing I store most of my beer in there so when one does break the cleanup isn't too bad.
 
I find it funny when people assume that lighter bottles are not as strong. A few months ago, a bottle expert gave a lecture on the manufacturing process of glass bottles. He explained that the glass industry is making advances on manufacturing that allow for better bottle strength with thinner walls. There is a method of molding called press and blow which allows for greater accuracy in wall thickness. The old blow and blow method would have inconsistent wall thickness which could sometimes concentrate areas of weakness.

With more control over wall thickness, manufacturers no longer need to make bottles thicker to ensure that there are no weak areas. Both light and heavier bottles are inspected with the same standards and must withstand the same PSI.

If you want some proof, cut a heavier bottle and a light bottle in half. You will likely notice that the wall of the heavy bottle is just as thin as the lighter one in some places.
 
We were never able to get the Bass bottles to cap right (due to the double ring bottle top style...) what kind of capper are you using?
 
I've noticed big differences in the hardness of the glass between different brands whose bottles otherwise appear identical.

A while back, I began de-labeling all my bottles using a wire wheel on my bench grinder. It works great and fast. Anyway, I soon noticed that the bottles of some brands always end up with a scuffed look (as you might expect after being ground with a wire wheel). Other brands don't look scuffed, but end up just a little less shiny. And other brands (most of the ones I've tried) will not show any signs at all - no matter how hard and how long I grind on the bottle, it will stay glossy and smooth as if it were brand new and never had a label to begin with.

I've only been at this a little under a year, but I've never had any of my bottles fail, including the ones I subjected to the bench grinder..... knock on wood.
 
I didn't read all the posts here but in my experience any debris left in the bottle (especially yeast) can cause the bottle to explode, as well as temperature. If you store it in a warm place it may activate what little yeast is left causing a lot of pressure in a little space which is feeding off of your priming sugar. Temperature variances and agitation (from cold to warm or into a car) will make for a mess. I have used many different bottles and simply prefer the brown bottles instead of green (obviously never use clear). The crew I brew with needs quite a bit of glass, so selection is usually whatever everyone brings with the strict rule of thumb, no twist offs and give them a good rinsing, turn them upside down in the case and our expert bottler will sanitize them right before bottling. I don't know if this helps any but... I've lost a case of Octoberfest in June or July of last year due to explosive beer, tsk...tsk...tsk... what a waste! Not to mention I had to go out and buy a present for the person the case was meant for. Brew on!!!
 
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