Did I muck up my PID???

[Howhownow]

I am building a control box for my new RIMS tube setup. I bought the internals as a kit from ebrewsupply.com . With some help, I have that all wired up and functional. I received and wired (as best I could) my PID, and it was not switching or sending an appropriate control signal to the SSR. Upon further investigation, it looks like I may have not studied the ebay ad closely enough.
I bought the Sestos model D1S-2R-220, when I thought I was purchasing the D1S-VR-220 that is meant to control a SSR. The 2R has a "Contact Output" The spec sheet is on this listing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electrical-...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Clearly I messed up and bought one that was not designed to work with a PID. I am no expert on electricity or PID controllers- can I salvage this or do I need to order a new one? The diagram for mine shows a switch that is not on the SSR controlled one. Can I get something other than a new PID?

 

[BigFloppy]

If you have a 5 or 12v wall wart, you could wire + to the relay out for + and wire - to - on ssr
It won't give same amount of control a true ssr version would, but would work

 

[Howhownow]

I don't quite understand how that would work... Can you explain a little further?

 

[P-J]

Bite the bullet on the mistake and get a proper PID: Temperature Control SSR output - SYL-2352
And then: 40A SSR
If you need one. They also have the heat sinks if needed.

Hope this helps you.

P-J

 

[wstev]

what SSRs do you have? DC or AC in? post the make/model

 

[wstev]

you can use the PID as a gate, and buy some AC in SSR's like those

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-Solid-...373?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5650e739e5

and just jump your neutral on your PID from Lug 9 or 10(whichever one is neutral) to Lug 7. Then run a wire from Lug 8 on your PID to Lug 4 on your SSR. Then run a wire on your SSR from lug 3 to one of your 120v lines coming into your panel

 

[Howhownow]

I already have the SSR. 40 amp from ebrew supply. I believe it is controlled by 3-32 Volts DC.
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/shop/internal-hardware/relays/40a-ssr.html
If it's a new PID, it's a new PID. Just frustrated and don't want the bother if I can try another option.

 

[atoughram]

Bite the bullet on the mistake and get a proper PID: Temperature Control SSR output - SYL-2352
And then: 40A SSR
If you need one. They also have the heat sinks if needed.

Hope this helps you.

P-J

I might have an Auber SYL-2362 for sale shortly.

 

[Howhownow]

How short is shortly? I am dying to get this rig up and running and am going to pull the trigger soon on another controller if I need to. This is literally the last piece- I did a cold water run last night.

 

[atoughram]

You have a PM

 

[Brumateur]

How short is shortly? I am dying to get this rig up and running and am going to pull the trigger soon on another controller if I need to. This is literally the last piece- I did a cold water run last night.

Just use an any available DC power supply from 3V to 24V as it was suggested already.
This way you don't need to wait for another PID.

 

[mattd2]

Just use an any available DC power supply from 3V to 24V as it was suggested already.
This way you don't need to wait for another PID.

You could most likely modify the 2R version to a VR similar to the REX PID modification (a lot of the REXs were supplied with relay outputs even if it said SSR on the ebay listing!)
This video shows you how (he does take his time though)
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NpcMycHDvk[/ame]

 

[Howhownow]

I'll pull the thing apart and take a look tonight. It is still getting returned and I'm getting the Auber that I should have in the first place.

Just use an any available DC power supply from 3V to 24V as it was suggested already.

For my knowledge- I understand the concept here- to supply the necessary voltage to send the control signal to the SSR... I just don't quite see how it would be hooked up. Can anyone elaborate?

 

[wstev]

I'll pull the thing apart and take a look tonight. It is still getting returned and I'm getting the Auber that I should have in the first place.

For my knowledge- I understand the concept here- to supply the necessary voltage to send the control signal to the SSR... I just don't quite see how it would be hooked up. Can anyone elaborate?

yours SSR doesnt give a rats @$$ where the voltage signal is coming from. If its going to get any DC voltage 3vdc-32vdc, 3mA-32mA, its going to close the SSR allowing power to pass thru the SSR.

So what has been mentioned a couple times in this forum, if you hook your DC+ right up to the SSR DC+, and run the DC- to the PID Common(screw 7) and then run a wire from your NO(screw 8) on your PID to the DC- on your ssr, then it would complete the circuit to the SSR, thus when the PID calls for heat and closes its NO contacts, the SSR will activate.

Id say the only difference you would have VS a SSR PID, a SSR PID will more then likely, cycle more often then a relay PID would(depending on the manufacturer of the PID)
I had some watlow 93 PIDs that could cycle my SSRs 10 times a second, I sold them last week for the only reason that they didnt have an alarm output.

 

[Howhownow]

Ok, making sense now! Seems like a good temporary solution could be just to hook up a 9V battery as you have laid out.

 

[mattd2]

I'll pull the thing apart and take a look tonight. It is still getting returned and I'm getting the Auber that I should have in the first place.

If you are are planning on returning the Sestos PID (and the seller is willing to take it back) then I wouldn't pull it apart.