if i bought 2 of the bog standard 40 pint lager or bitter kits and just used the 2 syrups to make just one 40 pint batch of lager. would that be possible, and would i use sugar for primary fermentation or not? would this vastly improve the taste of my beer. i'm a beginner eager to improve the taste of my lager/bitter etc. also would it be possible to mix , say a lager kit and a bitter kit or a lager and cerveza style kit? any help would me much appreciated
Default using 2 x 1.8kg lager kits to make 40 pints /no brewing sugar?
- Thread starter ogden25uk
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From a very general standpoint I'd say yes, using more malt extract and less sugar likely will improve the flavor of the beer.
That said, if it's hopped extract then you're adding more than malt extract so the flavor will probably change a lot, maybe or maybe not to your liking.
Sounds like you're at the point to move up to the next level of kits more specific to a beer rather than a general beer style, or do clone recipes, etc.
That said, if it's hopped extract then you're adding more than malt extract so the flavor will probably change a lot, maybe or maybe not to your liking.
Sounds like you're at the point to move up to the next level of kits more specific to a beer rather than a general beer style, or do clone recipes, etc.
I would buy some DME and use that over a second kit. It would be slightly cheaper and will not and the extra hops from the second kit or now you can add fresh hops.
Warning: don't boil the kit for more that 10 min. If you are going to add hops just boil the DME and and follow a hop schedule.
I use DME to sugar at 1.2-1
Warning: don't boil the kit for more that 10 min. If you are going to add hops just boil the DME and and follow a hop schedule.
I use DME to sugar at 1.2-1
Nope. NEVER boil pre-hopped extracts,as it destroys the designed in hop profile. I used 2 different Cooper's cans with 3lbs of plain DME & 3ozs of hops to make a big beer once,& they all played very well together. Toucans (two cans) are popular down under & can be good. So mix & match,but as I did,get some DME to use for hop additions in the boil.
If you're not going to use additional hops,then boil 3 gallons of water,remove from heat,& mix the cans in & stir till no more LME can be scraped off the bottom of the brew kettle. Cover & steep a few minutes to pasteurize & chill down to near pitch temp. Then take jugs of water you've been chilling since the day before & mix both well in the fermenter, This should get it down to mid 60's fahrenheit. Agood temp for the average ale yeast. 50F or so for lager yeast.
If you're not going to use additional hops,then boil 3 gallons of water,remove from heat,& mix the cans in & stir till no more LME can be scraped off the bottom of the brew kettle. Cover & steep a few minutes to pasteurize & chill down to near pitch temp. Then take jugs of water you've been chilling since the day before & mix both well in the fermenter, This should get it down to mid 60's fahrenheit. Agood temp for the average ale yeast. 50F or so for lager yeast.
when you say dme, do you mean the spray malt additives? sorry i'm fairly new to this, and not sure on all the ups and downs of it at the moment. i take it dme means dried malt extracts. i have only made beers from the kits containing the concentrates and yeast so far but i'm looking on ways on improving them or flavouring them.
DME is just a dried malt where LME is concentrated into syrup. DME doesn't darken in the boil like LME does. I wouldn't say it's a good stepping stone to PM & AG,but I use it in my partial mash beers. I use it in my AE beers as well.
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