Constantly have low gravity

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Fogey890

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I can't find out why my gravity is always 1.020 or in that ball park leaving my beers at like 2%. I use distilled water, have a filter instead of a false bottom(could that be it) my Temps have been right on the money. I can't figure it out and it's driving me nuts. Just kegged today after letting it ferment for 3 weeks but it's still low. Any help is appreciated.
 
Last edited:
I'm thinking you mean final gravity being 1.020? What are you using for measuring gravity? Refractometers isn't intended to use when alcohol is present, or at least it needs a calculation to get correct gravity. What yeast are you using? What's your usual starting gravity?
 
Yeah if you're using distilled water, that might really easily be why your gravity is in the dumps. There's just not enough nutrients in there for the enzymes to do their jobs.

Your numbers also seem odd. I think we need more information.
 
I can't find out why my gravity is always 1.2 or in that ball park leaving my beers at like 2%. I use distilled water, have a filter instead of a false bottom(could that be it) my Temps have been right on the money. I can't figure it out and it's driving me nuts. Just kegged today after letting it ferment for 3 weeks but it's still low. Any help is appreciated.
If you use distilled water, you need to add salts. Ions that come from salts are necessary to convert starches to sugars. Google for homebrew water chemistry to figure out proper type and amount of salts or just use filtered tap water.
 
We really need more information to make good recommendations.
Exactly this.

Grain bill example
Grain crush method and gap if possible
Mash time and temp
Strike water volume, temperature when mashing in
Sparge volume, if any
Boil time, volume lost
Gravity along the way
etc.
 
I can't find out why my gravity is always 1.2 or in that ball park leaving my beers at like 2%. I use distilled water, have a filter instead of a false bottom(could that be it) my Temps have been right on the money. I can't figure it out and it's driving me nuts. Just kegged today after letting it ferment for 3 weeks but it's still low. Any help is appreciated.

A gravity of 1.2 is either a mistype, or you are measuring incorrectly, whether it be the wrong type of hydrometer or reading the right type incorrectly.
 
The recipe is
10 lbs 2 Rowe
2lb honey malt

For a 5 gallon batch im wondering if I just need more grain but brewfather said it should be about 6%

I get my grain from morebeer and have them crush it. I was reading other forums and could that be the issue?

I was under the impression that water chemistry just affected the taste not gravity so I will invest in that.

I used a refractor during sparging and a hydrometer when I kegged it.

Something that happened with this one, the fermentation blew off the bung and air lock the first night but it still fermentated for weeks so I assumed it was fine. And my gravity is a issue every brew.

I use two thermometers one that came with my anvil kettle and a metal one from a grocery store and they seem to read the same.
 

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A gravity of 1.2 is either a mistype, or you are measuring incorrectly, whether it be the wrong type of hydrometer or reading the right type

A gravity of 1.2 is either a mistype, or you are measuring incorrectly, whether it be the wrong type of hydrometer or reading the right type incorrectly.
I meant 1.020 I was lazy typing
 
I meant 1.020 I was lazy typing

We've helped troubleshoot issues that turned out to be all kinds of things here. Many newcomers don't have a good understanding of what they are doing (because they are new!) so we generally ask all kinds of tedious questions to make sure that we are all on the same page :D
 
The recipe is
10 lbs 2 Rowe
2lb honey malt

For a 5 gallon batch im wondering if I just need more grain but brewfather said it should be about 6%

I get my grain from morebeer and have them crush it. I was reading other forums and could that be the issue?

I was under the impression that water chemistry just affected the taste not gravity so I will invest in that.

I used a refractor during sparging and a hydrometer when I kegged it.

Something that happened with this one, the fermentation blew off the bung and air lock the first night but it still fermentated for weeks so I assumed it was fine. And my gravity is a issue every brew.

I use two thermometers one that came with my anvil kettle and a metal one from a grocery store and they seem to read the same.

We've helped troubleshoot issues that turned out to be all kinds of things here. Many newcomers don't have a good understanding of what they are doing (because they are new!) so we generally ask all kinds of tedious questions to make sure that we are all on the same page :D
You are good I never struggled with extract and invested so much into all grain and keep getting the low gravity and its discouraging:(
 
The recipe is
10 lbs 2 Rowe
2lb honey malt

For a 5 gallon batch im wondering if I just need more grain but brewfather said it should be about 6%

I get my grain from morebeer and have them crush it. I was reading other forums and could that be the issue?

I was under the impression that water chemistry just affected the taste not gravity so I will invest in that.

I used a refractor during sparging and a hydrometer when I kegged it.

Something that happened with this one, the fermentation blew off the bung and air lock the first night but it still fermentated for weeks so I assumed it was fine. And my gravity is a issue every brew.

I use two thermometers one that came with my anvil kettle and a metal one from a grocery store and they seem to read the same.

Brewing software is only as good as the inputs you give it. Meticulous measurement and recordkeeping can really help when troubleshooting, and helps you dial in your new all grain process.

I've heard that Morebeer generally has a poor crush that can negatively impact efficiency.

We can work to try to get to the bottom of this.

1) How are you brewing - BIAB, mash tun, all in one? Something else?
2) Water amounts for mash and sparge?
3) Any idea at all about your water makeup? Are you doing any treatment at all?
4) Measured mash temperature at start and end of mash?
5) Measured post-mash volume and gravity?
6) Measured post-sparge volume and gravity?
7) Measured post-boil volume and gravity?
8) Volume to the fermenter?
 
The recipe is
10 lbs 2 Rowe
2lb honey malt

For a 5 gallon batch im wondering if I just need more grain but brewfather said it should be about 6%

I get my grain from morebeer and have them crush it. I was reading other forums and could that be the issue?

I was under the impression that water chemistry just affected the taste not gravity so I will invest in that.

I used a refractor during sparging and a hydrometer when I kegged it.

Something that happened with this one, the fermentation blew off the bung and air lock the first night but it still fermentated for weeks so I assumed it was fine. And my gravity is a issue every brew.

I use two thermometers one that came with my anvil kettle and a metal one from a grocery store and they seem to read the same.

We've helped troubleshoot issues that turned out to be all kinds of things here. Many newcomers don't have a good understanding of what they are doing (because they are new!) so we generally ask all kinds of tedious questions to make sure that we are all on the same page :D
You are good I never struggled with extract and invested so much into all grain and keep getting the low gravity and its discouraging
Brewing software is only as good as the inputs you give it. Meticulous measurement and recordkeeping can really help when troubleshooting, and helps you dial in your new all grain process.

I've heard that Morebeer generally has a poor crush that can negatively impact efficiency.

We can work to try to get to the bottom of this.

1) How are you brewing - BIAB, mash tun, all in one? Something else?
2) Water amounts for mash and sparge?
3) Any idea at all about your water makeup? Are you doing any treatment at all?
4) Measured mash temperature at start and end of mash?
5) Measured post-mash volume and gravity?
6) Measured post-sparge volume and gravity?
7) Measured post-boil volume and gravity?
8) Volume to the fermenter?
I use a 3 vessel hot liquor/mash tun/boil kettle

5.5 gallons of mash water at 148f( I wanted it to be 150 but I didn't Seal my lid well and it got colder faster)

3.2 gallons of strike 168f

I just used distilled didn't treat it but will in the future

Mash started at 153ish but ended at 148 after 60 minutes

I didn't know you do gravity 3 times so I only did it once and I got 1.020 and had about 7 gallons in the boil kettle

I had almost 5.5 gallons into the fermenter
 
Alcohol by volume (ABV) is calculated from the difference between OG and FG. You have only given us the FG (1.020) which doesn't tell us enough.
 
So you got 1.020 when you "were sparging". Was all the liquid together, stirred COMPLETELY, then a sample taken? It is very easy to have different concentrations of sugar.

Did you take a reading with refractometer after the boil, when you moved to fermenter - that would be the OG.
 
7 gallons I did it as I was sparging. Never done a iodine test before It's not cloudy

So this was the gravity of the sparge runoff? Or of the entire volume or wort before the boil?

If the entire volume, did you mix the entire kettle of wort well before measuring?

Have you confirmed that your refractometer is accurate compared to a hydrometer for wort? Some have a SG scale in addition to the brix scale, but they are not always accurate. Unless you know it's good you should measure in Brix and then convert, but that should not be so far off as to misread you an OG of 1.020.

How are you sparging - batch (mix drained mash grains with all of the sparge water at once, then drain off again)?
 
Alcohol by volume (ABV) is calculated from the difference between OG and FG. You have only given us the FG (1.020) which doesn't tell us enough.
It's not clear this is how @Fogey is calculating the 2% in the opening post.
I can't find out why my gravity is always 1.2 or in that ball park leaving my beers at like 2%. I use distilled water, have a filter instead of a false bottom(could that be it) my Temps have been right on the money. I can't figure it out and it's driving me nuts. Just kegged today after letting it ferment for 3 weeks but it's still low. Any help is appreciated.
Did you measure the original gravity-the specific gravity the beer was at when you put it in the fermenter?

How did you calculate the "like 2%" ABV? Were you just reading the ABV off the scale on the hydrometer? It doesn't work like that, see post #17 which I quoted.
 
5.5 gallons of mash water at 148f( I wanted it to be 150 but I didn't Seal my lid well and it got colder faster)

3.2 gallons of strike 168f

Can you clarify this?

Strike water is the water that you add to the dry grain for the mash. Mash water at 148? But strike at 168? What was sparge and what were the volumes?
 
Can you clarify this?

Strike water is the water that you add to the dry grain for the mash. Mash water at 148? But strike at 168? What was sparge and what were the

Maybe I have them wrong I've kind of learned from this post I brew completely wrong.

I guess I thought strike was for when you sparge it into the brew kettle I'm going to reread some of the books I have and watch a couple more videos cause i seem to be on a different planet than everyone else with it
 
Maybe I have them wrong I've kind of learned from this post I brew completely wrong.

I guess I thought strike was for when you sparge it into the brew kettle I'm going to reread some of the books I have and watch a couple more videos cause i seem to be on a different planet than everyone else with it
We all started and learned along the way.
Do you:
heat 5.5 gallons and mix in the grains, stir well. Stir some more. Stir one more time. Measure temp. Wait 60m. Drain into boil kettle. Add 3.2 gallons water at 168, mix well, drain again into boil kettle. Stir well. Stir some more. Take a refractometer reading of plain water to see that it's ZERO. Take a refractometer reading of WELL MIXED boil kettle liquid. That's your specific gravity pre-boil.
 
I use a 3 vessel hot liquor/mash tun/boil kettle
How big are those vessels? Is this a complete Anvil brew system?
If not, can you post a link to that system, especially the mash tun?
Do you know how to use that system?

I used a refractor during sparging
Refractometer! ^
Did you write any gravity numbers down? If so what were they?
 
We all started and learned along the way.
Do you:
heat 5.5 gallons and mix in the grains, stir well. Stir some more. Stir one more time. Measure temp. Wait 60m. Drain into boil kettle. Add 3.2 gallons water at 168, mix well, drain again into boil kettle. Stir well. Stir some more. Take a refractometer reading of plain water to see that it's ZERO. Take a refractometer reading of WELL MIXED boil kettle liquid. That's your specific gravity pre-boil.
I don't stir much at all after I mix the grain with water. I measure temperature and wait 60 then add to the kettle I don't check 0 on the refractometer I will start doing that. I have a red ale I'm going to brew next weekend and will try those tips
 
How big are those vessels? Is this a complete Anvil brew system?
If not, can you post a link to that system, especially the mash tun?
Do you know how to use that system?


Refractometer!
Did you write any gravity numbers down? If so what were they?
I use 2 10 gallon igloo coolers and a 20 gallon anvil idk why I bought such a big brew kettle.

My og was 1.020 and final I didn't write down last night as I was frustrated but my brand new hydrometer was barely above the beer line I just don't remember what number that is.
 
I use 2 10 gallon igloo coolers and a 20 gallon anvil idk why I bought such a big brew kettle.

My og was 1.020 and final I didn't write down last night as I was frustrated but my brand new hydrometer was barely above the beer line I just don't remember what number that is.
Your OG was about 1.025 when you boiled 7 gallons into 5.5 g of the wort. Also note, that the temperature of the liquid changes the reading.
 
I'm still not sure if 1.020 is your gravity before or after fermentation?
Before sorry
Yowsers!

For starters, don't fly sparge anymore. Aside from being tedious and mostly impractical on small systems, it needs a complete understanding of the mash system and process/mechanisms involved.

I I would start with getting a copy of John Palmer's How to Brew, 4th Ed.
It helps getting to know correct terminology, understand the various processes involved, and basically: Learning how to brew!

I never struggled with extract and invested so much into all grain
Brewing extract can hardly be considered a struggle. The mash, sparge, and boil have already been done, expertly!
All you need to do is dissolve the malt powder (or syrup) in your boil kettle with water, and take it from thereon, making (real) beer from it.
 
Yowsers!

For starters, don't fly sparge anymore. Aside from being tedious and mostly impractical on small systems, it needs a complete understanding of the mash system and process/mechanisms involved.

I I would start with getting a copy of John Palmer's How to Brew, 4th Ed.
It helps getting to know correct terminology, understand the various processes involved, and basically: Learning how to brew!


Brewing extract can hardly be considered a struggle. The mash, sparge, and boil have already been done, expertly!
All you need to do is dissolve the malt powder (or syrup) in your boil kettle with water, and take it from thereon, making (real) beer from it.
I appreciate that a lot thank you.
 
Maybe I have them wrong I've kind of learned from this post I brew completely wrong.

I guess I thought strike was for when you sparge it into the brew kettle I'm going to reread some of the books I have and watch a couple more videos cause i seem to be on a different planet than everyone else with it

Learning here is the whole point - we're making good progress figuring this out!

Before you try making your next brew, let's go over the plan for that in detail. So for now, do some reading and research, and when you're ready post the steps for that in EXCRUCIATING detail. Like, so an imbecile can't misconstrue anything about or between the steps, and would be able to repeat your process without any additional guidance. :D

That way we can see if there are any faulty assumptions in the process, or other things that were missed.
 
Learning here is the whole point - we're making good progress figuring this out!

Before you try making your next brew, let's go over the plan for that in detail. So for now, do some reading and research, and when you're ready post the steps for that in EXCRUCIATING detail. Like, so an imbecile can't misconstrue anything about or between the steps, and would be able to repeat your process without any additional guidance. :D

That way we can see if there are any faulty assumptions in the process, or other things that were missed.
Cool I'll post when I'm in the planning stage
 
Yowsers!

For starters, don't fly sparge anymore. Aside from being tedious and mostly impractical on small systems, it needs a complete understanding of the mash system and process/mechanisms involved.

I I would start with getting a copy of John Palmer's How to Brew, 4th Ed.
It helps getting to know correct terminology, understand the various processes involved, and basically: Learning how to brew!


Brewing extract can hardly be considered a struggle. The mash, sparge, and boil have already been done, expertly!
All you need to do is dissolve the malt powder (or syrup) in your boil kettle with water, and take it from thereon, making (real) beer from it.
I disagree with your assessment about fly sparging, mostly with the impracticality, although I don't find it particularly tedious either. Potentially your statement is tied to what you might consider a small system. Anyway though, It's not clear whether the attempt was to batch or fly sparge, other than the mention of not stirring much. Possibly there is a sparging problem either way, in that @Fogey890 may have let the sparge water pass through too quickly.
 
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