Cold Crashing

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squad83

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Quick noob question - what is exactly is the purpose of cold crashing?

When moving to the fermenter, is it better to leave the cloudy matter behind? If so, what is exactly the type of impact it would have on the flavor/fermenting?

Thanks.
 
Cold crashing will help clear you beer. From my understanding it should be done after fermentation completes.

The cloudy matter is the hot break and hops i am assuming. It is best to leave hot break/hops behind, but i don't think it does much harm if it is in the fermenter.
 
Cold crashing helps clear your beer by dropping out suspended yeasts and hops that my still be in suspension. I usually do this when I have dry hopped a beer with pellet hops
 
Thanks -

By after fermentation do you mean the final boil? I've been using dry hop pellets as well.
 
After you boil your wort, chill it and pitch yeast at 65 degrees. Let it sit for 3 weeks. Take it out to your 32 degree garage or fridge and leave it 2-3 days. Transfer to bottling bucket with priming usage and bottle

Dry hopping is a term referring to adding more hops after fermentation is complete. Usually used with Pale Ale or IPA styles
 
Ok, think I got it.

Would cooling the temp quickly after boiling the wort be considered cold crashing or is it really only after fermentation?

The cloudy matter I was referring to is when cooling the wort directly after boiling, you get that separation of liquid and matter.
 
Ok, think I got it.

Would cooling the temp quickly after boiling the wort be considered cold crashing or is it really only after fermentation?

The cloudy matter I was referring to is when cooling the wort directly after boiling, you get that separation of liquid and matter.


Cold crashing refers to cooling the beer close to freezing after fermentation is complete.

The cloudy matter that congeals while cooling the wort directly after boiling is referred to as cold break.
 
squad83 said:
Thanks for the info - should the cold break be removed prior to fermentation?

It's not necessary. Probably just food for the yeast to get them going
 
Like Grumpy said, not necessary. Some of it will go into your fermenter, hell, you could pour it all into the fermenter. After three weeks in the fermenter the gunk will be settled at the bottom, liquid above it. Rack the liquid into your bottling bucket and bottle.
 
To clean up your beer after boiling and cooling pour it through a fine strainer and collender(to airate) and you'll have less stuff in your beer while it ferments. Then after fermentation a few days before you bottle, chill your beer for a couple days, you should get very clear beer (I do) . As far as losing yeast for carbonation, it's still there, just add a week to your conditioning.
 
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