Cold Crash for chill-haze

[KingdomBrewers]

Hey all, I am 11 days into fermentation on an AG Pale Ale using Wyeast 1968 and I want to know how long I need to keep it at 71 to make sure I have no diacetyl problems before I cold crash it.

I want to cold crash because my last brew with this yeast (1.069 OG IPA) came out clear as glass (when warm) but has bad chill haze when cold. Also, it's had issues getting fully carbed even at 73 degrees and well primed. I was thinking for the Pale Ale, to cold crash it and then maybe hit it with gelatin. I would then repitch some of the same yeast (don't know how much would be needed for 19l) for carbonation, because this yeast drops like a rock.

Should I be good to begin the crash now? Should I transfer to secondary, wait a week and then crash? What would you do?

Thanks!

P.S. My fermentor is stainless steel so I can't see the clarity before bottling unless I rack to secondary (which I rarely do, since my primary is a semi-conical SS Brewbucket).

 

[waldoar15]

Two days or so for a D-Rest, then crash if the FG is steady.

If you're actually fighting chill haze (and not just yeast/hop haze) you're best bet is to lager for a while well below serving temp.

 

[KingdomBrewers]

It definitely looks like chill haze, are you recommending lagering in bottles or crashing and lagering a while before re-pitching, priming and bottling?

 

[waldoar15]

It definitely looks like chill haze, are you recommending lagering in bottles or crashing and lagering a while before re-pitching, priming and bottling?

Does it clear as the beer warms? That's chill haze. If it never clears then it's probably another issue.

I'd always go for bulk cold conditioning, but that's just me. It gives you a change to rack off the stuff that precipitates out during that process.

 

[KingdomBrewers]

It's clear at room temp and goes hazy when cold. I haven't taken a hazy one back to warm if that's what you mean. Should I try that? If I transfer the Pale Ale to a glass carboy at 12 days, stick it in a 33f fridge for a week then hit it with gelatin, wait a day and then bottle, would that be good?

 

[waldoar15]

Cool it, hit with gelatin, let it sit cold for a few days (at least) then rack.

A good hot break, rolling boil and a good cold break/ rapid cool down will do a lot to prevent chill haze in the future.

 

[The_Bishop]

Give it 24 hours to get down below 40. I usually go to 30f, then hit it with gelatin. Within a day it'll be pretty damn clear. Give it 3-4 and it should be brilliantly clear.

 

[KingdomBrewers]

Thanks everyone! After that, mix in some fresh yeast or what do you think?

 

[The_Bishop]

I never needed to.

 

[KingdomBrewers]

Thanks everyone! Just wondering, how many of you would think the crash and gelatin even necessary? This yeast drops clear on its own and I've never had chill haze before. Maybe it was a fluke on the last brew.

 

[waldoar15]

Thanks everyone! Just wondering, how many of you would think the crash and gelatin even necessary? This yeast drops clear on its own and I've never had chill haze before. Maybe it was a fluke on the last brew.

It's not necessary unless it bothers you. And it seems to be bothering you or you'd have never made a post about it.

Or, you could just drink it and try to improve the process on the next AG brew.

 

[KingdomBrewers]

It's not necessary unless it bothers you. And it seems to be bothering you or you'd have never made a post about it.

Or, you could just drink it and try to improve the process on the next AG brew.

Thanks Waldoar15, I just am trying to pinpoint where the protein chill haze came from in the last brew. I never had it before in 13 brews.

 

[ESBrewer]

Finings (gelatin will be fine, maybe in combination with some silica gel/pvpp based product) will be important to make it clear (given that you have chill haze in the secondary). When you cold crash you can see if the haze forms. It is going to take a very long time for the haze to drop if you don't use any finings. It is also going to take some time for all the haze to form so keep it as cold as possible (optimally -1..+1C) for at least a week and then add the finings and wait until it is clear. Then carefully rack it (when it is cold). You don't necessarily need to add fresh yeast when you bottle (there will still be some yeast in solution and it is probably viable enough, unless it is a very high abv brew) but you will get more rapid carbonation if you add a little bit. Then you need to wait for the yeast to settle to the bottom of the bottles to get it absolutely clear (if that is what you are looking for).

To minimize the haze, next time you want to put more effort in cooling the wort post boil, use kettle finings such as Whirlfloc or Protafloc and let enough time for the cold break material to drop before you transfer. And avoid putting any trub in the fermenter.

 

[DonGavlar]

I cold crashed my last brew down to near freezing. I let it sit at that temp for 2 days to get down to temp, added gelatin and left for another 2 days. Transferred it straight to the bottling bucket from the fridge and bottled. I didn't add any yeast and used the same amount of corn sugar that I normally use. Haven't had any carbonation issues and it resulted in a crystal clear beer.

 

[leonardoreges]

Once I brewed a 1081 og weizenbock and it stayed in near freezing temp for about a month. And even so didn’t need to repitch any yeast to bottle.