Cider aging on lees in fermentor

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Dazmac

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Hello
I am looking at trying to age some cider before kegging. I currently only have one keg.
What I planned on doing was as follows
Once fermented to required FG Transfer cider from fermentor in to a 30lt/8 gal food grade storage drum with double air locks. Once in the drum purge the O2 out with C02 through one of the air locks. And put into storage. And incase of leaks etc regularly purge our th O2 with CO2
Any comments on if this will or won't work?
Also I have read somewhere storage on the lees is not a bad thing . Comments?
Thanks look forward to suggestions or comments..
 
Unless you really need the fermenter I’d just leave it in there. How long would you be leaving it in? My longest is about 4 months in primary before kegging and that is just because life got on the way.
 
I left a mead on the lees for at 6-7 months once and it tasted great. I wouldn't worry about it.
 
I only have 1 fermentor and want to run a few batches as I have found when I aged it tasted way better!
 
Unless you really need the fermenter I’d just leave it in there. How long would you be leaving it in? My longest is about 4 months in primary before kegging and that is just because life got on the way.
I only have 1 fermentor and want to run a few batches as I have found when I aged it tasted way better!
I did a batch in bottle and found a few bottles that had been aging for approx 4 months and tasted awesome
 
I have a similar situation due to some kitchen repair issues, so don't have suitable cleaning space for additional carboys for secondary. My first batch of crabapple cider has been in primary carboy for a week and a half, no more activity happening. I had added spring water to reduce the SG because it was just going to be WAY too high. Already did my PE prior to pitching yeast, which cleared things up, and it's gotten back to its beautiful rose color after fermenting! Lees is all nicely settled on the bottom. Main concern is that it's only 2/3 full, so it's nowhere near the neck, and the liquid has air exposure over a larger surface (though I do have an airlock on it). I've heard mixed info on whether the surface area could be an issue.

I've got clean flip-cap bottles, as well as a larger stainless steel growler that might be just the right size for "bottling" the whole batch (I bought it to take home local brewery beer). Not sure though if that's a recommended technique for aging...? How long should I leave it in the carboy before bottling/growling (if that's an option)? I do plan to take a taste soon & determine if it needs any sweetening. If so, can I just combine it with some fresh juice rather than using artificial sweeteners? I think I maybe need to "crash" the yeast just in case, in that case?

TYIA!!
 
I think buying a used cheap glass carboy for long term storage is the best option. Some are down on glass but it has its place. Also with no headspace and an air lock you can store for a long time.
 
I have a similar situation due to some kitchen repair issues, so don't have suitable cleaning space for additional carboys for secondary. My first batch of crabapple cider has been in primary carboy for a week and a half, no more activity happening. I had added spring water to reduce the SG because it was just going to be WAY too high. Already did my PE prior to pitching yeast, which cleared things up, and it's gotten back to its beautiful rose color after fermenting! Lees is all nicely settled on the bottom. Main concern is that it's only 2/3 full, so it's nowhere near the neck, and the liquid has air exposure over a larger surface (though I do have an airlock on it). I've heard mixed info on whether the surface area could be an issue.

Air exposure or CO2 exposure? If you have had a functioning air lock all the time there's no problem.
 
Main concern is that it's only 2/3 full, so it's nowhere near the neck, and the liquid has air exposure over a larger surface (though I do have an airlock on it). I've heard mixed info on whether the surface area could be an issue.
If the primary has a lot of headspace, that shouldn’t matter for letting it sit because during fermentation almost all the O2 will be displaced by CO2 produced during fermentation. So you don’t have air exposure you just have CO2 exposure.

Where lots of headspace will be a big concern is if you remove the airlock after fermentation to check gravity or add things. Now you have a big space that holds O2 that just mixed into the headspace. IMO once you remove the airlock you should be racking to a secondary with little headspace or packaging.
 
If you're going to get into cider or winemaking that requires some aging, you'll just have to splurge and get some more suitable containers.
Used corny kegs are about the cheapest thing going and you can easily purge the air out of them. I've been using glass carboys for years for aging wine and cider but am gradually switching over to kegs. I gallon glass jugs work great as well. As already mentioned, a large container with a large amount of head space is not a good choice.
 
I think buying a used cheap glass carboy for long term storage is the best option. Some are down on glass but it has its place. Also with no headspace and an air lock you can store for a long time.
Glass??? HELL NO!!! I would never advise anyone buy a glass carboy these days. Better to simply buy an used corny keg to transfer into. Those can be had for pretty cheap money (with old enough).
 
If the primary has a lot of headspace, that shouldn’t matter for letting it sit because during fermentation almost all the O2 will be displaced by CO2 produced during fermentation. So you don’t have air exposure you just have CO2 exposure.

Where lots of headspace will be a big concern is if you remove the airlock after fermentation to check gravity or add things. Now you have a big space that holds O2 that just mixed into the headspace. IMO once you remove the airlock you should be racking to a secondary with little headspace or packaging.

Yes primary concern is the headspace. Haven't touched it since fermentation began a couple weeks ago, and though it wasn't as enthusiastic as I'd like, I saw it get going 12+ hours after pitching, and know it was working for at least 3-5 days.

I DO have to remove the airlock at some point to check gravity and determine what to add...at that point I'll rack to a clean container, or if nothing to add, I probably want to go ahead and bottle it (would like to give it some sparkle, so need to look at those methods again, as I believe there's a fermentation as well as a CO2 tablet option--did all my research on this 3 years ago, but then had to set it aside for a while LOL). But I guess no harm leaving it as-is for a bit in the primary until I'm ready for the next step...if I determine the ABV is where I want it but want to sweeten it (or dilute the ABV a little), how do I crash the yeast so it won't ferment the added juice/sugar?

If I wanted to give it some more fermentation because ABV is too low, can I fill the head space using a Ar-CO2-N2 gas wine preserver? I assume the gas would be nonreactive with brewing components the same as it is with wine...it's heavier than air, so the idea is just to put in enough to cover the surface of the wine in the bottle to keep the wine away from air/O2 while storing the recorked bottle upright. I don't know if there's enough in a can to fill my carboy headspace since fermentation might disrupt a surface layer of sunken gas, but assuming there was enough to displace all the air in the headspace...?
 
I think buying a used cheap glass carboy for long term storage is the best option. Some are down on glass but it has its place. Also with no headspace and an air lock you can store for a long time.
I'm super bummed that when I went to brew this year, I couldn't find my other 3 airlocks that came in my carboy kit, so I took it off the one batch I started 3 years ago but never got around to finishing/bottling. It had fermented nicely at that time, and now was totally still, but had been moved around a few times (though never removing the airlock). I was afraid to try anything with it after 3 years, so I took the airlock off to put on the new batch this year. I suspect it was actually very nicely preserved with all the sugar converted, because now it looks like a hot mess after fresh air exposure. Probably could have used it, even if just using it to spike a low-ABV batch or something. :-(
 
Yes primary concern is the headspace. Haven't touched it since fermentation began a couple weeks ago, and though it wasn't as enthusiastic as I'd like, I saw it get going 12+ hours after pitching, and know it was working for at least 3-5 days.
The headspace is going to be effectively all CO2 after fermentation finishes so long as the airlock is maintained.

I DO have to remove the airlock at some point to check gravity and determine what to add...at that point I'll rack to a clean container, or if nothing to add, I probably want to go ahead and bottle it (would like to give it some sparkle, so need to look at those methods again, as I believe there's a fermentation as well as a CO2 tablet option--did all my research on this 3 years ago, but then had to set it aside for a while LOL). But I guess no harm leaving it as-is for a bit in the primary until I'm ready for the next step...if I determine the ABV is where I want it but want to sweeten it (or dilute the ABV a little), how do I crash the yeast so it won't ferment the added juice/sugar?
There are a couple methods here. Assuming it has fermented dry (which it should have, if not stopped), you can:
  1. Add appropriate amount of sugar, bottle, and the sugar will ferment and carbonate the cider, leaving a dry, sparkling cider.
  2. Add sulfate and sorbate to stop the yeast, then add sugar to sweeten and bottle, leaving a sweet, flat cider.
  3. Add more sugar, allow to carbonate, then pasteurize to stop the yeast. Somewhat complicated, will result in bottle bombs if you forget/wait too long to pasteurize, may result in bottle bombs during the pasteurization step. I've not done this.
  4. Keg. Expensive to setup a kegging setup, but once you have it you can keg dry, or stabilize by adding sulfate and sorbate, then sugar, then force carb in the keg. Results in dry to sweet cider from very light carbonation to as much carbonation as you'd like depending on what you do. (I keg, primarily, and can bottle off the keg as needed to give away or take on trips)
If I wanted to give it some more fermentation because ABV is too low, can I fill the head space using a Ar-CO2-N2 gas wine preserver? I assume the gas would be nonreactive with brewing components the same as it is with wine...it's heavier than air, so the idea is just to put in enough to cover the surface of the wine in the bottle to keep the wine away from air/O2 while storing the recorked bottle upright. I don't know if there's enough in a can to fill my carboy headspace since fermentation might disrupt a surface layer of sunken gas, but assuming there was enough to displace all the air in the headspace...?
The blanket of heavy gas is a myth. While heavier gasses like argon or CO2 will initially sink, diffusion will cause the gasses to mix until they are evenly mixed. Rather quickly too. The headspace must be completely purged to avoid oxidation of the drink caused by oxygen in the headspace. This is why a small amount of headspace is used in secondary. It's to limit the total amount of oxygen, not the surface area. The surface area only determines how fast a drink will oxidize, the headspace volume determines how much it will oxidize.

Purging any headspace to lower the oxygen concentration before capping certainly will reduce oxidation. But it's because it lowers the total amount of oxygen in the headspace, not because the gas blankets the surface of the drink.

I'm super bummed that when I went to brew this year, I couldn't find my other 3 airlocks that came in my carboy kit, so I took it off the one batch I started 3 years ago but never got around to finishing/bottling. It had fermented nicely at that time, and now was totally still, but had been moved around a few times (though never removing the airlock). I was afraid to try anything with it after 3 years, so I took the airlock off to put on the new batch this year. I suspect it was actually very nicely preserved with all the sugar converted, because now it looks like a hot mess after fresh air exposure. Probably could have used it, even if just using it to spike a low-ABV batch or something. :-(
Assuming the airlock hadn't dried out and it looked good there was no reason not to try the 3 year old batch. If you ever let a batch sit for a long time next time, keep that in mind.
 
Assuming the airlock hadn't dried out and it looked good there was no reason not to try the 3 year old batch. If you ever let a batch sit for a long time next time, keep that in mind.

A friend who does beer brewing said there might be concern about production over time if left to sit of esters, I think it was...? (Might be wrong about the chemical.) Does that only affect beers?
 
There are a couple methods here. Assuming it has fermented dry (which it should have, if not stopped), you can:
  1. Add appropriate amount of sugar, bottle, and the sugar will ferment and carbonate the cider, leaving a dry, sparkling cider.
  2. Add sulfate and sorbate to stop the yeast, then add sugar to sweeten and bottle, leaving a sweet, flat cider.
  3. Add more sugar, allow to carbonate, then pasteurize to stop the yeast. Somewhat complicated, will result in bottle bombs if you forget/wait too long to pasteurize, may result in bottle bombs during the pasteurization step. I've not done this.
  4. Keg. Expensive to setup a kegging setup, but once you have it you can keg dry, or stabilize by adding sulfate and sorbate, then sugar, then force carb in the keg. Results in dry to sweet cider from very light carbonation to as much carbonation as you'd like depending on what you do. (I keg, primarily, and can bottle off the keg as needed to give away or take on trips)

Thank you!!


So if I wanted to add a little sweetness, but also carbonate, could I transfer off lees to minimize yeast in the final bottled product, add some fresh juice or corn sugar, let it go just until I see some action for an hour or so(?), then put it in the fridge (or briefly in the freezer first) to crash the yeast & leave it there until drinking? I hate to use things like sorbate (I can usually taste all artificial sweeteners, so I'm guessing maybe this might taste a bit like sorbitol?), but think it may end up being too dry as-is, and I also am not a huge fan of flat ciders. Would prefer to avoid complicated pasteurization. Or is there a way to add carbonation tabs maybe when bottling, after stopping the yeast with sulfate (or sorbate if absolutely necessary)? I thought I read something about carbonation tabs 3 years ago...but don't think at that time I was considering potentially having to completely stop the yeast due to being too dry.

LOL I suppose if I wanted to drink it all soon I could press & refrigerate some fresh juice & just combine it with the sparkling dry cider before serving, after having tested proportions!
 
Keg. Expensive to setup a kegging setup, but once you have it you can keg dry, or stabilize by adding sulfate and sorbate, then sugar, then force carb in the keg. Results in dry to sweet cider from very light carbonation to as much carbonation as you'd like depending on what you do. (I keg, primarily, and can bottle off the keg as needed to give away or take on trips)
To what pressure do you pressurise the keg for long term storage?
 
A friend who does beer brewing said there might be concern about production over time if left to sit of esters, I think it was...? (Might be wrong about the chemical.) Does that only affect beers?
Sitting on the lees for very long times can cause autolysis of the yeast I believe, which can cause a bunch of off flavors. Nothing that is dangerous though I don't think.

Thank you!!


So if I wanted to add a little sweetness, but also carbonate, could I transfer off lees to minimize yeast in the final bottled product, add some fresh juice or corn sugar, let it go just until I see some action for an hour or so(?), then put it in the fridge (or briefly in the freezer first) to crash the yeast & leave it there until drinking? I hate to use things like sorbate (I can usually taste all artificial sweeteners, so I'm guessing maybe this might taste a bit like sorbitol?), but think it may end up being too dry as-is, and I also am not a huge fan of flat ciders. Would prefer to avoid complicated pasteurization. Or is there a way to add carbonation tabs maybe when bottling, after stopping the yeast with sulfate (or sorbate if absolutely necessary)? I thought I read something about carbonation tabs 3 years ago...but don't think at that time I was considering potentially having to completely stop the yeast due to being too dry.

LOL I suppose if I wanted to drink it all soon I could press & refrigerate some fresh juice & just combine it with the sparkling dry cider before serving, after having tested proportions!
Refrigerating will greatly slow but not stop the yeast. If you drink it fast enough that would work. I'm not sure you will see activity in a bottle that's carbing, but I've never watched any of the few bottles I've bottle carbed. A better way is to bottle one bottle in a plastic container like a plastic soda container. Squeeze the container to determine how carbonated it is. This is the same as is done for pasteurization too (except when the bottle is hard the glass bottles are pasteurized, not refrigerated).

Another option I forgot about is simply fermenting dry, adding sugar at bottling to carb, then when drinking pour into a glass and add sugar, such as simple syrup, to taste.

Artificial sweeteners can be use. Lactose or xylitol are commonly used. I've not used any, but every mention of xylitol I've seen is that everybody says they cannot taste any off flavors or aftertastes, unlike many other artificial sweeteners. However, it is very poisonous to dogs.

Sorbate is short for potassium sorbate, and sulfate is short for potassium metabisulfite. These are not sweeteners. Sorbate keeps yeast from reproducing, and sulfite helps kill yeast. Sulfite also helps prevent oxidation. If you've had wine, it's almost a certainty sulfite has been added. If you've had a sweet wine, both sulfites and sorbates were added. Both are very commonly used. I use them when kegging cider if I'm sweetening it (same as you would when bottling if you sweeten it).

Carbonation tabs are simply sugar in a oversized pill. If you add sorbates and sulfates to stop the yeast, carbonation tabs will only sweeten, not carbonate.

To what pressure do you pressurise the keg for long term storage?
My kegs are pressurized to my desired volumes of CO2 based on my serving temp and kept in my kreezer. There's no specific pressure, or in fact any pressure, you'd need to leave a keg at for storage. You want to purge all the air with CO2 though.
 
Sorbate is short for potassium sorbate, and sulfate is short for potassium metabisulfite. These are not sweeteners. Sorbate keeps yeast from reproducing, and sulfite helps kill yeast. Sulfite also helps prevent oxidation. If you've had wine, it's almost a certainty sulfite has been added. If you've had a sweet wine, both sulfites and sorbates were added. Both are very commonly used. I use them when kegging cider if I'm sweetening it (same as you would when bottling if you sweeten it).

Just to clarify, potassium sorbate is a food preservative found in a great many things we consume every day, and, as you said, prevents the yeast from reproducing. Adding potassium metabisulfite prior to adding potassium sorbate prevents the potassium sorbate from possibly causing a geranium smell in your cider and helps prevent oxidation. Neither will actually kill the yeast, but the combination prevents a restart of fermentation when adding fermentable sugars.
 
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