chest freezer settings

[Arbe0]

Using a inkbird ITC-1000 to controller my chest freezer with freezer pugged into the controller cold side. Should I set the freezer controller on the freezer all the way up to the coldest setting? The lowest setting gets the freezer to 0 . Concerned about hurting the compressor. I have the setting to the ITC-1000 at 5 for "PT" compressor delay is that enough?
Does using this hurt the freezer in any way?

 

[HoppyHaze]

Shouldn't matter what you set the freezer controller to (it will be below the inkbird settings), some people go to the warmest setting to decrease risk of frozen kegs if the controller some how failed. The compressor is going to have to work less overall so if anything it would most likely extend the life. I have my PT delay to the maximum but in reality it cycles about every 2 hours.

I would imagine a bigger factor is temp probe location which is debated on here, I personally have my inside a koozie taped to the side of a full beer. Some people tape with insulation to the side of a keg, others dangle the probe in the air. Dangling for me had the freezer cycling very frequently so I switched to the can method.

 

[Golddiggie]

I let my probe hang low (in the air) in my keezer. I also have the collar insulated with 1/2" thick neoprene foam (adhesive backed) to help with the temperature swings. I make sure that the probe doesn't come into contact with one of the kegs. I find that it doesn't cycle too often, or too long, with this setup.

I also have my gas bottles outside of the keezer, so opening the lid is kept to a minimum. I was keeping canned homebrew in the keezer, but have moved those to a dedicated fridge recently.

 

[mashinary]

I'd suggest what HoppyHaze said and tape the probe to a can of something. Doing so will save the life of the freezer, etc.

 

[Spundit]

I would set the PT delay to the maximum. On my inkbird it is 10. If I could set it to 30 I probably would.

This setting is just insurance in case something goes haywire. As mentioned above, it should not be cycling on and off that often when everything is running properly. Cycling on and off too often would likely shorten the compressor lifespan.

 

[RolandD]

I took a .5L water bottle, drilled a hole in the cap to insert the probe, and sealed it with silicone. It sits on the hump and keeps the cycling rate down. My ITC-308 is currently cycling once every six hours.

 

[Cameronl]

Just turning it all the way down is fine. Like HoppyHaze said, the Inkbird will turn the keezer on and off long before the freezer thermo would ever kick in.
I completely replace the built in thermostat in mine with the Inkbird.

 

[Arbe0]

I was thinking of that Cameronl. does it help bypassing the freezer controll to the ITC-1000? What are the advantages of that in comparison to plugging the freezer plug into the cold relay on the ITC ?

 

[Cameronl]

I was thinking of that Cameronl. does it help bypassing the freezer controll to the ITC-1000? What are the advantages of that in comparison to plugging the freezer plug into the cold relay on the ITC ?

NO advantage, just neater and looks good. 100% not necessary.
The original thermo is wired exactly the same as the Inkbird. Once you pull it out, figuring out which wires go where is fairly straight forward.
I did NOT try to run the temp control through the guts of the freezer, though. That just runs up the back and through the collar.

 

[RolandD]

Just turning it all the way down is fine. Like HoppyHaze said, the Inkbird will turn the keezer on and off long before the freezer thermo would ever kick in.
I completely replace the built in thermostat in mine with the Inkbird.

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That looks great, nice job.

 

[Arbe0]

Thanks eveyone for the great advice. I just plugged the new (old used) freezer into the cold side of my ITC-100 box that I had on a freezer that died, set the compressor delay to 10 and freezer at 4. Set the ITC to 60 F( just to test) ran the temp probe under the lid. it got down to 55.3 F so I plugged in a carboy heater into the heatside of the ITC and ran the cord out under the lid. Will put a wood coller on it in the near future.
I am thinking of adding a fan. I have a fan in a comuter case that is empty (115 v) but thinking also of a 12 V fan that I found on Amazon along with a phone charger. didn't have a fan in the last freezer and had problems with mildew so I had to clean it at times.
here is a picture of my ITC-100 box from the freezer that died.

 

[HoppyHaze]

I used a small PC fan and phone charger and highly recommend it. I also used some Dry & Dry to help with the moisture. EVA dry units also seem to be really popular.
Dry & Dry" [1 Quart Premium Orange Indicating Silica Gel Desiccant Beads(Industry Standard 2-4 mm) - Rechargeable Silica Gel Beads(2 LBS): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[IslandLizard]

so I plugged in a carboy heater into the heatside of the ITC

That's not advantageous.
You don't want to add heat to a keezer, unless it's out in a garage, shed or in an area that drops below your set kegerator temp. Instead, adjust the probe location/insulation to limit undershooting. It's the actual temp of the beer that counts, not the air inside the keezer, which could well be below the set temp, until all stabilizes in the next 30-60'.

From what I've read it's still best not to let a working freezer freeze up by nature.

 

[mschieve]

Just turning it all the way down is fine. Like HoppyHaze said, the Inkbird will turn the keezer on and off long before the freezer thermo would ever kick in.
I completely replace the built in thermostat in mine with the Inkbird.

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Nice!!

 

[JAReeves]

I just have a bottle of water on the floor between the kegs, the temp probe is always submerged. It’s turned to max cool, and the inkbird turns it on and off. CO2 canister is outside, piped through the insulated collar. PC fan wired with an iPhone block plug keeps it spinning slow for circulation.

At some point I will drill the top to add a tap tower or the front of the collar for a line of taps, but for now it’s picnic taps on the kegs.