Cheapest New 2 Keg Keezer

[Cacaman]

Cool, can't wait to see it.

I have some updated pics with my taps installed. Will try to post some up tonight. I also can show how I attached the 2 keg gas manifold with the 2 sided tape that matches the red gas lines from KegConnections

That would be helpful, thanks!

 

[brewit2it]

Finally getting around to updating with a few more pics.

Pic of installed gas manifold. Again, motivation was to secure it inside while not damaging the Freezer at all. I decided to use the 2 sided tape leaving the red backing on so it matches the CO2 lines:

ETC mounted on wall behind the Keezer:

Finished Keezer with natural wood collar and EBay tap handles. The tap on the left will always hold my lighter beer and the one on right the darker. I have my Kolsch on the left and "Torpedo Clone" (not nearly hoppy enough to resemble Torpedo but delicious none the less) on the right. You will notice I didn't put the shanks as far left as heyjaffy. I just centered them on the main compartment (midpoint between the two taps is exactly midpoint from left inside compartment wall and compressor hump wall). It's just personal preference and doesn't really make any difference. I'm toying with the idea of putting a 3rd tap for a 2.5 or 3 gallon keg on the hump because I like the idea of making some smaller batches and may not want to wait as long as it will take me to go through 5 gallons to get the next batch in the keezer.

 

[heyjaffy]

Finally getting around to updating with a few more pics.

...

Finished Keezer with natural wood collar and EBay tap handles. The tap on the left will always hold my lighter beer and the one on right the darker. I have my Kolsch on the left and "Torpedo Clone" (not nearly hoppy enough to resemble Torpedo but delicious none the less) on the right. You will notice I didn't put the shanks as far left as heyjaffy. I just centered them on the main compartment (midpoint between the two taps is exactly midpoint from left inside compartment wall and compressor hump wall). It's just personal preference and doesn't really make any difference. I'm toying with the idea of putting a 3rd tap for a 2.5 or 3 gallon keg on the hump because I like the idea of making some smaller batches and may not want to wait as long as it will take me to go through 5 gallons to get the next batch in the keezer.

Looks nice. I put my taps so far to the left that I ended up having to cut down the corner bracket with a dremel as the tap was too close to the corner.

As you were thinking it, I was doing it: bought a 3 gallon keg off of ebay this week and ordered an extra regulator, hoses, shank, and faucet from kegconnection to add the third tap. This stopped being "the cheapest" keezer for me pretty quick, but it's still pretty reasonable considering the quality of the parts. I ordered my original kegconnection build with dual regulator because it seemed like a good idea to be able to set the kegs at different pressures, and in practice, has been good for me, as I have a wheat on one tap that needs high PSI (about 20) and an ESB on the other tap that needs low PSI (5 - 8), so I decided to get a third regulator for the third keg to allow even more adjustability.

 

[brewit2it]

Looks nice. I put my taps so far to the left that I ended up having to cut down the corner bracket with a dremel as the tap was too close to the corner.

As you were thinking it, I was doing it: bought a 3 gallon keg off of ebay this week and ordered an extra regulator, hoses, shank, and faucet from kegconnection to add the third tap. This stopped being "the cheapest" keezer for me pretty quick, but it's still pretty reasonable considering the quality of the parts. I ordered my original kegconnection build with dual regulator because it seemed like a good idea to be able to set the kegs at different pressures, and in practice, has been good for me, as I have a wheat on one tap that needs high PSI (about 20) and an ESB on the other tap that needs low PSI (5 - 8), so I decided to get a third regulator for the third keg to allow even more adjustability.

Which ebayer did you buy the small keg from? I read about folks getting one in the $75.00 shipped range but I haven't been able to find anything for that price.

Yeah, it would be nice to have the ability to have different degrees of carbonation in different beers. If I was doing it again I would upgrade to the dual regulator setup for the flexibility, but the reality is I don't see myself making wheat beer. I enjoy one once in awhile but not enough to drink an entire batch of it. I have my system at 10 PSI and it is working fine for the Kolsch and Pale Ale. I'm not real concerned with matching style as much as carbing the way I like and don't think I would change from what I'm getting with 10 PSI for pretty much anything I will brew.

 

[heyjaffy]

Which ebayer did you buy the small keg from? I read about folks getting one in the $75.00 shipped range but I haven't been able to find anything for that price.

Yeah, it would be nice to have the ability to have different degrees of carbonation in different beers. If I was doing it again I would upgrade to the dual regulator setup for the flexibility, but the reality is I don't see myself making wheat beer. I enjoy one once in awhile but not enough to drink an entire batch of it. I have my system at 10 PSI and it is working fine for the Kolsch and Pale Ale. I'm not real concerned with matching style as much as carbing the way I like and don't think I would change from what I'm getting with 10 PSI for pretty much anything I will brew.

Seller was "crustylives" - I just searched for 3 gallon keg and found this seller listing the keg for $80 plus $10 shipping or "make an offer" - I offered $75 shipped and the seller accepted. Looks the he's sold a few in that price range.

 

[muse435]

Here's a pic of mine, it is the same basic setup w/ the same etc, actual taps to be added.

 

[brewit2it]

Here's a pic of mine, it is the same basic setup w/ the same etc, actual taps to be added.

Cool!! I'm trying to figure out what's going on with the keg in front of the keezer. It has it's own gauge and almost looks like it is connected to a line going through the front of the freezer wall, but that must be an optical illusion from the picture.

 

[muse435]

Cool!! I'm trying to figure out what's going on with the keg in front of the keezer. It has it's own gauge and almost looks like it is connected to a line going through the front of the freezer wall, but that must be an optical illusion from the picture.

It is my keg naturally carbing while using a spunding valve. It is not connected to the keezer though.

 

[brewit2it]

It is my keg naturally carbing while using a spunding valve. It is not connected to the keezer though.

Thats pretty neat. So you prime in the keg and then can follow the rise in carbonation? About how high does the pressure get when the beer is fully carbed?

 

[muse435]

Thats pretty neat. So you prime in the keg and then can follow the rise in carbonation? About how high does the pressure get when the beer is fully carbed?

That was my first attempt and I messed it up, here is a great source about it though

 

[Cacaman]

Your drip tray is epic. +1 for originality.

 

[CidahMastah]

Nice build!

I did a very similar set up a while back (watch bobby's video) but I used a 2x10 for the collar so I could fit 4 kegs in it. I used silicone for the bottom seal and mitre cuts with braces on the collar then hit it with poly. Because I sanded and leveled and hit with poly, the top made a perfect seal so no additional insulation foam was needed for a proper seal.

I screwed the hinges directly into the collar as well. I set up the manifolds so I could have 2-3 kegs on a quick charge and 2-3 on regular maintenance pressure. I did a bevel cut around the rim so my manifolds fit in snugly. I also used that window putty around the gas and liquid lines for insulation and ease of removal if/when I have to replace lines.

With 4 kegs it is crowded, but it was the only free freezer i have.

Beer lines running up to a two tap tower upstairs.

 

[Brewfat]

Nice build!

I did a very similar set up a while back (watch bobby's video) but I used a 2x10 for the collar so I could fit 4 kegs in it. I used silicone for the bottom seal and mitre cuts with braces on the collar then hit it with poly. Because I sanded and leveled and hit with poly, the top made a perfect seal so no additional insulation foam was needed for a proper seal.

I screwed the hinges directly into the collar as well. I set up the manifolds so I could have 2-3 kegs on a quick charge and 2-3 on regular maintenance pressure. I did a bevel cut around the rim so my manifolds fit in snugly. I also used that window putty around the gas and liquid lines for insulation and ease of removal if/when I have to replace lines.

With 4 kegs it is crowded, but it was the only free freezer i have.

Beer lines running up to a two tap tower upstairs.

How long of a run do your beer lines have? Do you just have them wrapped, no other chilling? How's it working out for you? I'm thinking of doing something similar.

 

[CidahMastah]

How long of a run do your beer lines have? Do you just have them wrapped, no other chilling? How's it working out for you? I'm thinking of doing something similar.

I have about a 10 foot total rise, but 15 feet of (EDIT) 1/4'' beer tubing. I set the regulator at 11.5-13.5 depending on the brew and leave it like that.

I wrapped the two beer tubing lines in 3-4 (can't recall) of the cheap foam pipe insulation at HD. At the top part (which would potentially get sunlight) I wrapped it in reflective aluminum furnace tape so the dark foam wouldn't absorb as much heat.

The system works great with the following caveats.

1. Never had a foam issue with ciders.
2. If I over carb the beer, it foams at the spout (it would in any system). If I don't overcarb there aren't any problems.
3. If i don't drink a beer for a week, I usually purge the first 3-4oz of beer to clear the lines (figure the beer may be a little stagnant). I sometimes pour that beer into a frozen mug and drink it.
4. If I pour say 5-6 beers right in a row, sometimes I get some extra foam (1.5-2inches) on the last couple beers. I believe the reason for this is my keezer is colder on the bottom and warmer on the top (no circulating fan). So as you drain the keg, the slightly warmer beer comes out for dispensing (we are talking beer that is a few degrees warmer, but still cold beer). This difference in temperature change of even a few degrees causes the CO2 to come out of solution and thus, the extra foaming (if you let the brew sit a minute, the foam turns back into beer! ).

Am I happy with it? Definitely. It was extremely inexpensive to buy the foam and install vs. the coolant for the lines, etc. For the minor inconvenience of losing a couple ounces of beer here and there I am ok with that for now. My brews cost me somewhere around .25 cents for 12oz of the big grain bill brews. That makes 3oz about .08 cents, and that is for something that has a huge grain bill. I can toss out .08 cents here and there and still revel in the coolness of a tap at my bar (see profile pictures for the bar pics).



Things I would change?

1. Might put a circulating fan in there (but there isn't much room) - by circulating fan I mean a circulating fan inside my keezer to circulate to cold air on the bottom to the top of the keezer.

I posted some details on temps from pours etc on a past thread but I can't find the darn thing...
Well anyway, it was pouring out at like 42-45F the way I set it, it was perfect temp for a dispense. I can't recall the lower keg temp though...

 

[CidahMastah]

Found it - check this out:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheapest-new-2-keg-keezer-224848/index6.html
Read from there on - at the end I posted more info about the final results.

You should check out bobby's you tube video when you plan to build as well. I did several things differently, but it is a great guide to get you thinking about what things look like under the hood.



Highlights:

a. Vertical rise is about 9-10 feet from center of keg to top of tower.
b. I was dispensing the porter at 11psi and the graf at 12.5ish psi - at the time I didn't know I accidentally over carbed, by shaking the keg.
c. Good flow rate and I filled a pint glass which I temped at 44F
d. 1 1/4-2 inches of closed cell foam around the beer lines for insulation (say diameter of 4-5inches)

After 24 hour wait:
At first pour after a 24 hour delay in use (now that I have figured out the carbing issue) I get:
a. about .5 inches (i.e. perfect).
b. If I go through like 5 glasses right after another, they foam slightly more - 1-1.5 inches of foam (this is an issue with the keezer not uniformly cooling ALL of the beer in it; coldest on bottom, slightly warmer on top)

So basically, since then I worked out the carbing kinks (I was rushing it and overcarbed… it was my second keg to carb ever so sue me ha!

If you have any questions let me know.

 

[brewit2it]

Found it - check this out:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheapest-new-2-keg-keezer-224848/index6.html
Read from there on - at the end I posted more info about the final results.

You should check out bobby's you tube video when you plan to build as well. I did several things differently, but it is a great guide to get you thinking about what things look like under the hood.



Highlights:

a. Vertical rise is about 9-10 feet from center of keg to top of tower.
b. I was dispensing the porter at 11psi and the graf at 12.5ish psi - at the time I didn't know I accidentally over carbed, by shaking the keg.
c. Good flow rate and I filled a pint glass which I temped at 44F
d. 1 1/4-2 inches of closed cell foam around the beer lines for insulation (say diameter of 4-5inches)

After 24 hour wait:
At first pour after a 24 hour delay in use (now that I have figured out the carbing issue) I get:
a. about .5 inches (i.e. perfect).
b. If I go through like 5 glasses right after another, they foam slightly more - 1-1.5 inches of foam (this is an issue with the keezer not uniformly cooling ALL of the beer in it; coldest on bottom, slightly warmer on top)

So basically, since then I worked out the carbing kinks (I was rushing it and overcarbed… it was my second keg to carb ever so sue me ha!

If you have any questions let me know.

That's an awesome setup man. Great idea about runnng the lines up to your taps. It's nothing like mine really, way more advanced and true cabinet level construction of the collar. Mine is for others like me with no wood working skills or tools who might be intimidated by the idea of trying some of the awesome Keezer DIY projects some of you guys take on.

Mine is literally one trip to HD and a couple hours to complete. One benefit of my simple build is the temp is consistent from top to bottom, probably because the collar is only 2.5 inches tall so the total volume is not changed significantly. You can fit 3 kegs in mine with a 3 gallon keg on the hump. You could add a 4th if you moved the CO2 out. Heyjaffy already added a 3rd keg and 3rd tap in his, which is pretty much the same design as mine.

 

[Brewfat]

I have about a 10 foot total rise, but 15 feet of (EDIT) 1/4'' beer tubing. I set the regulator at 11.5-13.5 depending on the brew and leave it like that.

I wrapped the two beer tubing lines in 3-4 (can't recall) of the cheap foam pipe insulation at HD. At the top part (which would potentially get sunlight) I wrapped it in reflective aluminum furnace tape so the dark foam wouldn't absorb as much heat.

The system works great with the following caveats.

1. Never had a foam issue with ciders.
2. If I over carb the beer, it foams at the spout (it would in any system). If I don't overcarb there aren't any problems.
3. If i don't drink a beer for a week, I usually purge the first 3-4oz of beer to clear the lines (figure the beer may be a little stagnant). I sometimes pour that beer into a frozen mug and drink it.
4. If I pour say 5-6 beers right in a row, sometimes I get some extra foam (1.5-2inches) on the last couple beers. I believe the reason for this is my keezer is colder on the bottom and warmer on the top (no circulating fan). So as you drain the keg, the slightly warmer beer comes out for dispensing (we are talking beer that is a few degrees warmer, but still cold beer). This difference in temperature change of even a few degrees causes the CO2 to come out of solution and thus, the extra foaming (if you let the brew sit a minute, the foam turns back into beer! ).

Am I happy with it? Definitely. It was extremely inexpensive to buy the foam and install vs. the coolant for the lines, etc. For the minor inconvenience of losing a couple ounces of beer here and there I am ok with that for now. My brews cost me somewhere around .25 cents for 12oz of the big grain bill brews. That makes 3oz about .08 cents, and that is for something that has a huge grain bill. I can toss out .08 cents here and there and still revel in the coolness of a tap at my bar (see profile pictures for the bar pics).

Things I would change?

1. Might put a circulating fan in there (but there isn't much room) - by circulating fan I mean a circulating fan inside my keezer to circulate to cold air on the bottom to the top of the keezer.

I posted some details on temps from pours etc on a past thread but I can't find the darn thing...
Well anyway, it was pouring out at like 42-45F the way I set it, it was perfect temp for a dispense. I can't recall the lower keg temp though...

Good info, thanks. The pouring off of what's in the lines is my biggest concern. I can go days without a beer. Easy problem to solve I guess.

 

[heyjaffy]

Nice build!

I did a very similar set up a while back (watch bobby's video) but I used a 2x10 for the collar so I could fit 4 kegs in it. I used silicone for the bottom seal and mitre cuts with braces on the collar then hit it with poly. Because I sanded and leveled and hit with poly, the top made a perfect seal so no additional insulation foam was needed for a proper seal.

I screwed the hinges directly into the collar as well. I set up the manifolds so I could have 2-3 kegs on a quick charge and 2-3 on regular maintenance pressure. I did a bevel cut around the rim so my manifolds fit in snugly. I also used that window putty around the gas and liquid lines for insulation and ease of removal if/when I have to replace lines.

With 4 kegs it is crowded, but it was the only free freezer i have.

Beer lines running up to a two tap tower upstairs.

Great looking build! Is there no hump in your freezer? All of the kegs appear to be sitting at the same height.

 

[CidahMastah]

That's an awesome setup man. Great idea about runnng the lines up to your taps. It's nothing like mine really, way more advanced and true cabinet level construction of the collar. Mine is for others like me with no wood working skills or tools who might be intimidated by the idea of trying some of the awesome Keezer DIY projects some of you guys take on.

Mine is literally one trip to HD and a couple hours to complete. One benefit of my simple build is the temp is consistent from top to bottom, probably because the collar is only 2.5 inches tall so the total volume is not changed significantly. You can fit 3 kegs in mine with a 3 gallon keg on the hump. You could add a 4th if you moved the CO2 out. Heyjaffy already added a 3rd keg and 3rd tap in his, which is pretty much the same design as mine.

Thanks!

This build isn't that hard if you have a mitre saw - but it takes a little more patience and wood know how. However - what you built works... period, no shame at all in your project!

Trust me I have seen some on here that shame mine to pieces ha! However time and money and desire to brew and drink beer instead of build a shrine made me work a bit faster and whip this up

I do agree that the collar height is the issue that leads to slight temp difference from top to bottom of the keg. There are ways to fix it (I think), but honestly, it affects my 5% use scenario. Who knows, maybe I will get fancy and fix it one day.

 

[CidahMastah]

Good info, thanks. The pouring off of what's in the lines is my biggest concern. I can go days without a beer. Easy problem to solve I guess.

I usually have a beer a day after work,... ok sometimes 2 ha! you would lose about 3-4 oz a week if you have a beer a week - that is a limitation of this set up. Or you could pour it into a frosted glass and go that route. The beer tastes fine, no O2 in it, it is just room temp at that point.

Something to consider is, if you go glycol, you kill this issue of 3-4oz pour off. However:
1. you have a pump running constantly
2. you have to buy a pump
3. you have to buy glycol
4. you need to install the glycol tubing which is about $12-15 a foot if I remember right.

So for me the cost of the 3-4oz, was cheaper than the electricity consumed by the pump and the glycol install. One day I might step it up, but for now I accept the limitation.

 

[CidahMastah]

Great looking build! Is there no hump in your freezer? All of the kegs appear to be sitting at the same height.

With some of the extra 2x10 lumber from the collar I actually put together a pedestal that allows air flow to the bottom of the freezer, but a shelf for the kegs. This makes everything level with the "hump". If I ever install glycol, I would put the glycol reservoir in the free space there. Glycol isn't the silver bullet either though, there is a lot of trouble shooting I have read with people who went that route (another reason I didn't chose it).

You may have noticed from the pictures that I put in an extension cord outlet (120v) in the keezer. I put that in there so I could go glycol, or if I decide to rig up a couple fans to circulate the air in the keezer. Probably will use computer fans. Unfortunately, I just completed my electric brewing build, so money has found new priorities right now.

 

[Brewfat]

I usually have a beer a day after work,... ok sometimes 2 ha! you would lose about 3-4 oz a week if you have a beer a week - that is a limitation of this set up. Or you could pour it into a frosted glass and go that route. The beer tastes fine, no O2 in it, it is just room temp at that point.

Something to consider is, if you go glycol, you kill this issue of 3-4oz pour off. However:
1. you have a pump running constantly
2. you have to buy a pump
3. you have to buy glycol
4. you need to install the glycol tubing which is about $12-15 a foot if I remember right.

So for me the cost of the 3-4oz, was cheaper than the electricity consumed by the pump and the glycol install. One day I might step it up, but for now I accept the limitation.

Glycol is out, I'm not interested in that expense and complication. I have the wife sold on a tower on the kitchen counter pending new countertops.

Picnic taps in the garage work for now. if i ever finish my basement, a keezer will be built.

 

[Jota21]

I have the wife sold on a tower on the kitchen counter pending new countertops.

Your wife is going to let you put a tower in the NEW countertops????? How'd you pull that one off??

 

[CidahMastah]

Very cool - when you do it be sure to post the results.

btw: I keep two picnic taps in the keezer to test carb readiness, sample brews and have secret drinking privileges in the basement - Picnic taps work great and are cheap.

With Glycol, I think if I maintained 6 active beer lines, and people over at my house for happy hour regularly, I might invest in glycol.

I have no interest in doing either of those things. I guess what I am saying is that, like you, I am not trying to run a bar at my house - which is the only way you can really rationalize glycol costs IMO. When my friends are over, we usually outside or are in the garage brewing anyway.

Show me a good way to run 350ft of beer lines down to a tap at the foot of my apple orchard and you have my attention - ha j/k

 

[heyjaffy]

I just headed to Home Despot today to pickup some 1x10 to upgrade mine to a 4 keg unit. I could have done this with the existing 3-inch collar with 2 5-gallon kegs and 2 3-gallon kegs but I just decided to give the thing the inches it needs to hold a full 20 gallons of brew. I'll be building tomorrow - will post pics soon.

 

[brewit2it]

I just headed to Home Despot today to pickup some 1x10 to upgrade mine to a 4 keg unit. I could have done this with the existing 3-inch collar with 2 5-gallon kegs and 2 3-gallon kegs but I just decided to give the thing the inches it needs to hold a full 20 gallons of brew. I'll be building tomorrow - will post pics soon.

Sounds great, I can't wait to see it. Are you going to tile it again or leave it natural wood? I have thought about doing this but am too lazy to change mine plus I worry that the cooling will be uneven. Folks use fans to push the cold air up to the dead space where there are no cooling coils in the large collar. Are you planning on adding a fan?

 

[heyjaffy]

I will be using tiles again on this build - Home Depot had some tile sheets on sale. I ended up cutting the 1x10 down to 8-inches as that's the height I need and the tiles fit better that way. I'll insulate this collar a bit better than the last time, but for now, I'm not planning on changing the cooling in any way with a fan - I'll see how it goes. It's going to be a tight fit with four kegs, to the point where I might not even have room for a fan, and I figure that thermal mass has got to come into play in some capacity. I just got my boards cut yesterday and ripped the old collar off and did a quick test/sanity check - should start actually building tonight and will take some pics. It helps that all but 1 of my kegs are empty at this time, but the pipeline is rebuilding.

 

[intense3123]

Looking to get this freezer at Sams club. I'll probably be going with a tower setup. Do the two cornies, CO2 tank and 5 gal carboy fit under the original lid without a collar? From the pics on the first page it looks like they barely do. Thanks.

 

[heyjaffy]

See my rebuild here

 

[natural320]

hey guys, did anyone (or could anyone?) measure the distace on the freezer floor from the wall to the hump?
I love this keezer for its size and practicality for where I would be putting it, but the best deals I can get on ball lock kegs are actually converted pins, so they are 9" in diameter. so if I wanted to follow this build to a "T", but only keep 2 kegs and the CO2 tank, will it fit? I guess I need someone to confirm that there is just over 18" inches on that area of the floor so I can start placing my orders! I totally appreciate your help!

 

[Cacaman]

I have this build as well, and the ball lock kegs barely clear sitting diagonal from each other. I really doubt 2 pin lock kegs would fit in here.

 

[CidahMastah]

Yeah unfortunately this keezer is perfect for ball locks, but too small for 4 pin locks. Are you talking about putting 2 in the lower area and co2 on the hump? Two ball locks will barely fit side by side in the lower part of the keezer - so 2 pins sure won't.

 

[CidahMastah]

Also - ifyou are building a collar - get your CO2 tank outside the keezer and run the line through a hole in the collar. Don't waste that valuable space You never know you might happen upon a 3 gallon keg or similar that will fit on the hump.

 

[natural320]

well boo to me...but thanks to you guys! the plan WAS going to be 2 kegs on the lower area, so if they won't fit, then I am either going to have to pony up for "real" ball locks or find a slightly bigger freezer.

ugh, so close to kegging!

 

[CidahMastah]

well boo to me...but thanks to you guys! the plan WAS going to be 2 kegs on the lower area, so if they won't fit, then I am either going to have to pony up for "real" ball locks or find a slightly bigger freezer.

ugh, so close to kegging!

You won't regret a bigger freezer. You also won't regret that pin lock kegs (converted or not) are going to be what is readily available since the ball lock kegs have been chewed up as the preferred keg over the years.

i.e. if I was starting out and didn't have any kegs, I would seriously consider going all pin lock (even converted pin lock with ball lock attachments). You could stand to save a lot of money per keg

 

[natural320]

yeah I know...my only problem was that I bought a "keg kit" from Rebel last year (tank, regulator, and ball lock fittings) to start making my own soda using a carbonater cap (which works quite well actually), and my cheap @$$ doesn't want 2 sets of fittings floating around. however, I think it might be worth considering that point you made about the ball locks going the way of the buffalo at the moment...

 

[lalnx]

Yeah unfortunately this keezer is perfect for ball locks, but too small for 4 pin locks. Are you talking about putting 2 in the lower area and co2 on the hump? Two ball locks will barely fit side by side in the lower part of the keezer - so 2 pins sure won't.

I have a magic chef 5.5, and that snuggly fits 4 pin locks, 2 high, 2 low, and you need a collar that allows an additional 6" of interior height. (co2 is external of course)

 

[CidahMastah]

yeah I know...my only problem was that I bought a "keg kit" from Rebel last year (tank, regulator, and ball lock fittings) to start making my own soda using a carbonater cap (which works quite well actually), and my cheap @$$ doesn't want 2 sets of fittings floating around. however, I think it might be worth considering that point you made about the ball locks going the way of the buffalo at the moment...

you can use pin lock kegs, that are retrofitted with ball lock posts. So you get the ball lock posts, but the kegs are slightly wider and shorter. So you won't need two sets of connects. Make sense?

 

[natural320]

the retrofitted ones are the exact ones I was looking at buying, makes perfect sense

 

[CidahMastah]

the retrofitted ones are the exact ones I was looking at buying, makes perfect sense

Hope that didn't come off wrong - haha - just here to help. I think there will be WAY more competitive pricing on the retro fitted pin locks in the future.