MichaelBrock
Well-Known Member
I think the original post includes an o-ring in the line-up and other posters have used it. If you already have one handy no harm in trying it.
MichaelBrock said:I think the original post includes an o-ring in the line-up and other posters have used it. If you already have one handy no harm in trying it.
bottlebomber said:I don't think the O ring on the outside was functional in my case... the seal was on the inside. If it wasn't that would mean hot wort was contacting the foam inside the cooler. That would be lame
gcdowd said:You put the o-ring on the inside? As I have it now, the only thing separating the inside from outside was the rubber seal that came with the cooler. It doesn't seem like the ss washer was pressed enough against it. My first attempt leaked immediately. I tightened some things and filled half way with water, no leak. Opened the valve, water came out but also leaked under the valve as well, a slow steady drip.
Looks like I will be building this soon.
Waterboy42 said:Finally up to do this with two ten gallon coolers, since they dropped in price. No stainless braids. But I want the versatility to fly sparge. Buying the NB false bottom tomorrow and seeing how it goes.
bottlebomber said:You might want to research/reconsider that... there is a LOT of murmering about that particular item, evidently it kind of sucks. It doesn't really fit the cooler that well to begin with, and after the cooler inevitably warps from putting 170 degree water in it a few times the situation gets worse. This is really the way to go if your not going to invest in a kettle set up.
FYI:
I converted a chest cooler that has a drain on a 45 degree angle to the bottom. To bring the opening closer to the bottom and reduce the dead space I used Watts parts:
A-760 (3/8 FIP x 3/8 FIP) Male to Female thread gender changer
A-186 (3/8 MIP flare x 3/8 MIP) 90 degree adapter
between the A-298 (3/8 FIP x 3/8 hose barb) and the A-786 (3/8 MIP nipple).
I haven't tried it out yet (still trying to get the leaks to stop), but I don't think it will be a problem.
For hose I'm planning on using Watts SBVKG10 (5/8 OD, 3/8 ID) Braided Vinyl Tubing (Home Depot says it's good to 175 degrees F) unless someone thinks that would be a problem...
Has anyone ever tried using one of these on a 5 or 10 gallon Rubbermaid to make a mash tun?
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/italian-bottling-spigot.html
They are a perfect fit for the existing spigot, and a 3/4" pipe fitting screws on the threads inside the cooler to attach a manifold. Anyone see a downside to this?
I tested this yesterday with 130 degree tap water and all was well. Will test today with some 175 degree water.
And yes, Reno, I realize it's a bottling bucket spigot; name was a dead give away! . Just seems too cheap and easy to not give it a try.
I am looking to make this sometime this week. I jumped back 50 pages just to read a little bit and see if anything has changed and I happened to stumble across FlyGuy mentioning that he no longer recommends using the vinyl tubing. What is he doing differently now? I'll be reading some more later tonight but 175 pages is a lot. If anyone knows what he recommends now, I'd appreciate it.
I understand that part of it ( acidity of the wort and beer ) but what is the concern with lead leaching ? lead is soluble at high temps not at acidic ph. The color change after the peroxide and vinegar is due to oxidation and corrosion of the brass and copper compounds in the fitting not because we removed lead.The short answer is: wort - and beer - are acidic...
Cheers!
I understand that part of it ( acidity of the wort and beer ) but what is the concern with lead leaching ? lead is soluble at high temps not at acidic ph.[...]
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