Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[MichaelBrock]

I think the original post includes an o-ring in the line-up and other posters have used it. If you already have one handy no harm in trying it.

 

[gcdowd]

I think the original post includes an o-ring in the line-up and other posters have used it. If you already have one handy no harm in trying it.

The original post only had an o-ring on the outside so I'm nervous about using on the inside. Either way, I may try both methods. Thanks!

 

[bottlebomber]

I don't think the O ring on the outside was functional in my case... the seal was on the inside. If it wasn't that would mean hot wort was contacting the foam inside the cooler. That would be lame

 

[gcdowd]

I don't think the O ring on the outside was functional in my case... the seal was on the inside. If it wasn't that would mean hot wort was contacting the foam inside the cooler. That would be lame

You put the o-ring on the inside? As I have it now, the only thing separating the inside from outside was the rubber seal that came with the cooler. It doesn't seem like the ss washer was pressed enough against it. My first attempt leaked immediately. I tightened some things and filled half way with water, no leak. Opened the valve, water came out but also leaked under the valve as well, a slow steady drip.

 

[bottlebomber]

You put the o-ring on the inside? As I have it now, the only thing separating the inside from outside was the rubber seal that came with the cooler. It doesn't seem like the ss washer was pressed enough against it. My first attempt leaked immediately. I tightened some things and filled half way with water, no leak. Opened the valve, water came out but also leaked under the valve as well, a slow steady drip.

The black O ring (I couldn't find silicon) was to go on the outside of the cooler, which I did, but I can't see that its functional. Just like yours, the only thing sealing mine is the seal that came with the cooler. I really think if you flip your seal around so that its not going inside the thru-hole, it will give you enough of a gap for your washer to clamp on it nicely. Also, some guys have given up and just obtained food grade silicon sealant, and applied it around the hole.

 

[gcdowd]

Ok, I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

 

[Guidry]

Here’s a photo of the inside of mine (used a Home Depot 10gal cooler):


Braid is a 24” x ¾” water heater hose with the innards removed. It is clamped to a reducing T (¾”x ¾” x ½”). From the ½” connection is a short piece of ½” copper pipe. Here’s where my small claim of ingenuity came in. (see photo below) The next piece is a female adapter (1/2” x 3/8”) that I slipped the end of the pipe in and then drilled a hole from one side to the other to accept a small brass screw. The screw acts like a cotter pin to hold the pipe in but also allows it to be removed so that I can clean the braid easier. The adapter is threaded on the 3/8” end and functions as a nut to clamp against the SS washer.



I used a brass pipe nipple (3/8” x Close) thru the cooler wall. That length “close” is what is shown on the packaging. It is about an inch long and if I recall, it is threaded the full length. I have the OEM rubber seal through the hole in the cooler wall and as shown, one washer on the inside. I also used one of the black washers from the heater hose between the washer and the cooler wall. I tested it for about 2 hrs with hot water and no leaks.

Outside is pretty much what has been discussed before. I have 2 SS washers clamped on using a 3/8" coupling then another brass nipple leading to the ball valve with a hose barb adapter.



OK, that had to have something in there that was confusing, so if you have questions, let me know.

Now to take that leap into the all-grain world! Looking for advice on a first recipe.

 

[bottlebomber]

Nice! I might have to borrow your modification, it looks much sturdier that the original, and I love being able to easily remove the braid for cleaning. I don't know what kind of beer you like, but so far I have brewed Samhain Pumpkin Ale and O' Flannagains stout using this and they were both awesome

 

[gcdowd]

Hey all, finally got it to work with no leaks. I ended up adding a second o-ring to the outside then tightened it further. Held 10 gallons of water in it for 75 mins then drained. Also, only lost 1 degree of temp in that time...rockin! Thanks everyone for the help, and thanks Fly Guy for the great idea!

 

[Stockspeed3]

Looks like I will be building this soon.

 

[Skarekrough]

Looks like I will be building this soon.

Totally worth the time and money to do it.

Have a blast!

 

[malweth]

FYI:

I converted a chest cooler that has a drain on a 45 degree angle to the bottom. To bring the opening closer to the bottom and reduce the dead space I used Watts parts:

A-760 (3/8 FIP x 3/8 FIP) Male to Female thread gender changer
A-186 (3/8 MIP flare x 3/8 MIP) 90 degree adapter
​

between the A-298 (3/8 FIP x 3/8 hose barb) and the A-786 (3/8 MIP nipple).

I haven't tried it out yet (still trying to get the leaks to stop), but I don't think it will be a problem.

For hose I'm planning on using Watts SBVKG10 (5/8 OD, 3/8 ID) Braided Vinyl Tubing (Home Depot says it's good to 175 degrees F) unless someone thinks that would be a problem...

 

[Waterboy42]

Finally up to do this with two ten gallon coolers, since they dropped in price. No stainless braids. But I want the versatility to fly sparge. Buying the NB false bottom tomorrow and seeing how it goes.

 

[bottlebomber]

Finally up to do this with two ten gallon coolers, since they dropped in price. No stainless braids. But I want the versatility to fly sparge. Buying the NB false bottom tomorrow and seeing how it goes.

You might want to research/reconsider that... there is a LOT of murmering about that particular item, evidently it kind of sucks. It doesn't really fit the cooler that well to begin with, and after the cooler inevitably warps from putting 170 degree water in it a few times the situation gets worse. This is really the way to go if your not going to invest in a kettle set up.

 

[Waterboy42]

You might want to research/reconsider that... there is a LOT of murmering about that particular item, evidently it kind of sucks. It doesn't really fit the cooler that well to begin with, and after the cooler inevitably warps from putting 170 degree water in it a few times the situation gets worse. This is really the way to go if your not going to invest in a kettle set up.

Long term, it will fit in a kettle, hence the purchase. But, I can't disagree.

 

[Waterboy42]

But then agai, I have acces to a machine shop that works with stainless.

 

[bottlebomber]

I run half a shop that specializes in stainless and nickel alloys, but it would still be a lot of set up time to try and make a false bottom. You would need a punch machine to make the slots or holes, cut out a nicely fit piece of metal (which would probably need to be ordered from Fry or Carpenter steel, and they're not cheap. Then you'd need to weld the feet on and make the dip tube fitting. By the time your done, you will have 10 hours into the thing, and probably $40. And do you know what kind of kettle your going to buy? Because the false bottom for the Rubbermaid is smaller in diameter than many kettles. This is seriously an awesome build while you get good at AG brewing and wait or save for your ultimate brewing setup. Just my take on it.

 

[Waterboy42]

I meant that I may build a larger kettle to fit.

 

[CGVT]

FYI:

I converted a chest cooler that has a drain on a 45 degree angle to the bottom. To bring the opening closer to the bottom and reduce the dead space I used Watts parts:

A-760 (3/8 FIP x 3/8 FIP) Male to Female thread gender changer
A-186 (3/8 MIP flare x 3/8 MIP) 90 degree adapter
​

between the A-298 (3/8 FIP x 3/8 hose barb) and the A-786 (3/8 MIP nipple).

I haven't tried it out yet (still trying to get the leaks to stop), but I don't think it will be a problem.

For hose I'm planning on using Watts SBVKG10 (5/8 OD, 3/8 ID) Braided Vinyl Tubing (Home Depot says it's good to 175 degrees F) unless someone thinks that would be a problem...

If you haven't already bought it, I would go with the stainless just to be sure. I got mine at HD and got the one with the compression fitting on one end (by the copper pipe and valves) it was about 12 bucks. I'm not sure of the diameterm but it was large than the nipple. I attached it to the nipple with a wire tie and have had no problems.

 

[scottsr123]

Has anyone ever tried using one of these on a 5 or 10 gallon Rubbermaid to make a mash tun?
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/italian-bottling-spigot.html

They are a perfect fit for the existing spigot, and a 3/4" pipe fitting screws on the threads inside the cooler to attach a manifold. Anyone see a downside to this?

 

[Reno_eNVy]

Has anyone ever tried using one of these on a 5 or 10 gallon Rubbermaid to make a mash tun?
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/italian-bottling-spigot.html

They are a perfect fit for the existing spigot, and a 3/4" pipe fitting screws on the threads inside the cooler to attach a manifold. Anyone see a downside to this?

It's just a spigot for a bottling bucket

Downside: probably can't handle the heat of the mash. Also, it's plastic so even if it can it won't last nearly as long as a metal one.

 

[scottsr123]

I tested this yesterday with 130 degree tap water and all was well. Will test today with some 175 degree water.

And yes, Reno, I realize it's a bottling bucket spigot; name was a dead give away! . Just seems too cheap and easy to not give it a try.

 

[barrooze]

FYI, this is used in the Zapap Lauter Tun Charlie Papazian came up with.

 

[Reno_eNVy]

I tested this yesterday with 130 degree tap water and all was well. Will test today with some 175 degree water.

And yes, Reno, I realize it's a bottling bucket spigot; name was a dead give away! . Just seems too cheap and easy to not give it a try.

Lulz, yeah. It just doesn't seem nearly as sturdy to me. And heaven forbid a grain husk makes it through the manifold and gets stuck in the spigot.... that has the possibility of requiring some serious effort to get unstuck.

 

[XtremeBrew]

The guys at my LHBS use that setup for their coolers and told me the only issue they have is sometimes the spigot knob tries to rise up out of the handle when it gets too hot. Other than that, they have no issues. I don't know if I'd be comfortable using them, but thought the info would be useful

 

[scottsr123]

Appreciate the feedback. I tested my cooler with this spigot today with 180 degree water for an hour with no issues. I'll go ahead and finish my manifold and give it a try.

 

[jaredkent]

I am looking to make this sometime this week. I jumped back 50 pages just to read a little bit and see if anything has changed and I happened to stumble across FlyGuy mentioning that he no longer recommends using the vinyl tubing. What is he doing differently now? I'll be reading some more later tonight but 175 pages is a lot. If anyone knows what he recommends now, I'd appreciate it.

 

[MikeG]

I am looking to make this sometime this week. I jumped back 50 pages just to read a little bit and see if anything has changed and I happened to stumble across FlyGuy mentioning that he no longer recommends using the vinyl tubing. What is he doing differently now? I'll be reading some more later tonight but 175 pages is a lot. If anyone knows what he recommends now, I'd appreciate it.

What's on the first page is still good. I use a SS coiled spring from mcmastercarr.com inside my SS braid but the rest is exactly the same.

 

[ddrrseio]

is 3/8" the consensus choice? i ordered an igloo 10 gal cooler a week ago. morebeer stocks all the 1/2" parts (including their kettle screen) but not 3/8"

 

[gcdowd]

I built this a few weeks ago and had been letting it sit in my basement covered.* As I was building it, I put the brass stuff into a solution of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide to get the lead out.* I only did it for a few minutes as suggested until the brass was a buttery yellow.* Once I completed the build, I put the cover on and placed the MLT down in my basement to store (I have not yet used it for a mash).* When I checked it the other day, my inside brass fitting had some black crud on it (pic attached).* Anyone know what it is?* Mold?* Additional lead?*

 

[bottlebomber]

Just a little oxidation from the acid you soaked it in. Harmless.

 

[gcdowd]

Rock on, thanks!

 

[Piratwolf]

In for near-future project . AG here I come!

 

[motleybrews]

Finally used mine! Worked great.

The first 10g cooler I bought was from my LHBS and I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work. Discovered that when he replaced the stock spigot with an on/off spigot, he took out the stock o ring seal thing. So that is now my HLT. Bought one at home depot, made it my mash tun.

 

[Aschecte]

I'm a bit confused ..... I'm in the plumbing and heating trade and we use brass fittings all the time for potable drinking water. what is all this concern about lead ??? even moreso why do we think it's only on the surface where vinegar and peroxide will remove it ( I'm assuming this is a form of acid washig). If I'm getting the basic idea of this we want to remove the surface contaminents because the Mash temps may "melt" the lead into the wort. But based on this assumption the we would have to do this all the time as the negligable amt of lead is found throughout the entire brass fitting and will always be present in some amount. Also what about every single water connection in our homes all our r14 and r19 connections are brass same as what we have here but we don't acid wash these..... sorry to be on a rant I just don't understand why the big concern about acid washing the fittings.

 

[day_trippr]

The short answer is: wort - and beer - are acidic...

Cheers!

 

[Aschecte]

The short answer is: wort - and beer - are acidic...

Cheers!

I understand that part of it ( acidity of the wort and beer ) but what is the concern with lead leaching ? lead is soluble at high temps not at acidic ph. The color change after the peroxide and vinegar is due to oxidation and corrosion of the brass and copper compounds in the fitting not because we removed lead.

 

[day_trippr]

I understand that part of it ( acidity of the wort and beer ) but what is the concern with lead leaching ? lead is soluble at high temps not at acidic ph.[...]

What? That is utterly incorrect. Even carbonated water can dissolve lead...

Cheers!

 

[Aschecte]

I'm not trying to argue with anyone I just want to understand the science behind why we are trying to "clean" the brass. If the state of california which believe it or not has the highest standards for lead detection and reduction says brass nipples, ball valves , couplings anything with the csa stamp on it is safe for human potable water consumption then why are we trying to chemically alter it ? p.s. and believe me I'm not arguing but carbonated water ( co2 + H2o ) causes the formation of carbonic acid which yes even a mild acid will give a few ppm worth of lead film but lead will dissolve at high temps much more readily but I do stand corrected acid will remove lead.Also check this out.

NSF International is at the forefront of the low-lead plumbing products issue, having actively worked with the State of California and other key States for over fifteen years, through the ongoing development of NSF/ANSI Standard 61 (NSF 61). The standard has played a key role in CA Proposition 65 lead settlements and is now the American National Standard for lead content in plumbing products.

Most recently, NSF developed the evaluation procedures in NSF/ANSI Standard 372 (NSF 372) to establish an American National Standard to determine product compliance with the ≤0.25% percent maximum weighted average lead content requirement. NSF/ANSI Standard 61, Annex G (NSF 61-G) references NSF 372. Certification to NSF 61-G or NSF 372 meets the requirements of the California Health and Safety Code (Section 116875; commonly known as AB1953) as well as for other states developing similar regulations. This also meets the new low lead requirements of the U.S. Safe Drinking Water Act, which go into effect in January 2014.

NSF offers certification to NSF 61-G and NSF 372 to manufacturers of products that contact drinking water, including faucets, flexible plumbing connectors, valves, meters and many other product types.

This webpage has been created to assist all involved parties with recent happenings in regards to legislation of low-lead plumbing products, NSF 61, Annex G, NSF 372 and certification. We encourage you to bookmark this page and check back frequently for the latest information.

 

[HootHootHoot]

I bought a 3/4" x 18" water heater connector instead of the 1/2" diameter... Will this still work or should I go look for a 1/2"?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Just seems real big compared to the fittings that will go on each side. But will this matter if I zip tie it down real good?

Thanks