Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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I just finished putting my MLT together. I am using 1/2 in parts, so I had to do some jerryrigging in order for the bulkhead not to leak. I am using a stainless steal washer inside the MLT and then using the original rubber gasket-only problem is that there is a small gap now between washer and the liner. Will this cause any problems? It's not leaking so I kind of want to let it be.
 
If it's not leaking...."it ain't busted," etc. My kit from Bargain Fittings came with a couple of red silicone O-rings. I installed them per the directions, and although the valve has some wiggle, it doesn't leak a drop. I thought about it.....and left it alone.
 
Where did you get such a cheap 10 gal water cooler?? I think I paid over $40 for a 5 gal one!!

Don't know whether the question was addressed to me or not, but I bought the eponymous* Rubbermaid cooler at Home Depot for $37.96 + tax.

*the cooler (10 gal "big orange" Rubbermaid) for which this thread is named.
 
I went to both Home Depot and a local hardware store, and both had a few of the necessary parts, but not all. It was quite frustrating.

Are there any online stores where all the necessary parts can be purchased?
 
Bargain Fittings (a vendor on this site, I believe) sells complete kits. They are 1/2" throughout, I have one installed in my Rubbermaid MLT, and it's great! The complete kit, including braid, was $45 delivered, and any difference in price was more than made up for by my not having to run all over town trying to find all the correct parts.
 
I used ACE hardware for my conversion. They had everything I needed including the SS washers.

Not to mention people that actually know what they are talking about like my big box stores.
 
I had trouble finding SS hose clamps WITH SS bolts- most sold come with regular steel bolts. I found some online at a marine hardware site, can't remember which one.
 
I bought a 10 gallon rubbermaid square at academy for 21.99 to get started on this tomorrow. There's an ace right down the street that should have everything.

Is there a reason people don't use a large cheesecloth as the means for a sort of removable false bottom? Seems like it would do the trick....
 
I bought a 10 gallon rubbermaid square at academy for 21.99 to get started on this tomorrow. There's an ace right down the street that should have everything.

Is there a reason people don't use a large cheesecloth as the means for a sort of removable false bottom? Seems like it would do the trick....

Unless you plan on replacing it every time you use it, it will be impossible to clean. Also, it doesn't really have any structure and so would just get craished flat under the grain.
 
Many thanks to FlyGuy for this idea. Building one of these was a lot of fun, and I kind of did my own take on this, so I thought I'd post it here.

So, I have this ridiculous need to feel like I save money when I buy things, so I built one of these this weekend using a 48 qt cooler from academy that was 21.99, which saved me about $30 versus the 10 Gal water cooler.

After several trips to Ace, Home Depot and Lowes using the parts list and directions from flyguys' first post, I had it built, but it was leaking. Badly. I'm pretty sure it's because there's a size difference in the drain hole between the two coolers.

I was determined to build this thing though, so I headed back out to Home Depot and loaded up on extra rubber fender washers and plated fender washers. I got it all done by about 6:00 last night and mashed my first batch while tending to the steak and shrimp on the grill.

Here's what I ended up using (list bastardized from the original post):

- Igloo 48 Qt flat ice chest - From academy
- all stainless steel ¼” hose clamps
- brass square head plug
- ½” x 18” (or larger) braided stainless steel supply hose
- 3/8” female barb adapter
- 5/8” Rubber Fender washer X 2
- 3/8” MIP x 1-1/2” brass nipple (Watts A-786)
- Teflon tape (note: everything to the left of the tape in the picture above goes inside the cooler, and everything to the right goes outside)
- 4-6 x 5/8” fender washers (I think I ended up using either 4 or 5 - spend the additional $0.66-$0.99 to have a few extras)
- 3/8” threaded ball valve
- 3/8” male barb adapter


Follow the original directions, subbing the 5/8” Rubber Fender washers for the Stainless steel fender washer on the inside, and for the o ring on the outside. You do not need to reuse the seal from the original drain plug. I plan on replacing the hose clamp with a plastic zip tie this week once I figure out where in the garage I hid them from myself.

Here's some pics of it in action last night. Didn't leak a drop and held 153* perfectly:

Spigot

P7180006.jpg






Interior

P7180005.jpg





Draining the Wort:

P7180007.jpg





P7180008.jpg




My very finely engineered solution to draining the wort into the pot:


P7180010.jpg


Got batch 1 into the primary last night!
 
It may just be my eyes playing tricks but those cooler walls look thin. How well does it hold the temp during an hour mash?
 
Mookie1010: "My very finely engineered solution to draining the wort into the pot:"

Looks like my finely engineered solution. And both work. Only difference is that my MLT sits on my workbench, and lauters into the brewpot sitting on the burner on the garage floor. Same principle, K.I.S.S.
 
When I tried a BIAB in my economy 7.5gal stainless pot it only lost 1 degree in 45 minutes so I imagine even a cheap cooler can do at least as well. And if it does lose a couple degrees you could wrap it in blankets to up the insulation.
 
You are incredibly lucky then. I usually lose around 2-3 degrees in my cooler and it appears to have thicker walls. It is a cheapo wal-mart rubbermaid though, so who knows what kind of crap materials are stuck between the plastic!
 
I finally decided to get the ball rolling on this whole "all grain" thing and bought a 10 gallon cooler yesterday and got all the parts today. I just finished assembly and am leak testing it now! WOOHOO!
 
I just finished making one of these tonight. A whole day of running around and less than an hour of assembly. Those ten gallon rubbermaids are a bugger to find in the stores. Thanks flyguy, you have probably helped hundreds to make the jump into all grain.
 
I just finished making one of these tonight. A whole day of running around and less than an hour of assembly. Those ten gallon rubbermaids are a bugger to find in the stores. Thanks flyguy, you have probably helped hundreds to make the jump into all grain.

I found mine at ace hardware no problem. it was the 5/8th fender washers that I couldn't find. I just ended up buying 1/2in and a 5/8th drill bit.
 
I found myself a 10gallon rubbermaid this weekend but held off on doing the conversion so I could test using a grain bag.

This was my first partial mash and I used a grain bag fit inside entirely, draped the top of the bag over the sides then screwed the lid on. I know there are tons of variables on efficiency but according to beersmith I only got 48%.. Could one of the causes of this low efficiency be that I used that bag tactic instead of the steel mesh braid?
 
Finally had a chance to put mine together tonight. Filled it with hot water for 45 minutes and saw no leaks, first AG batch may come this weekend
 
I found myself a 10gallon rubbermaid this weekend but held off on doing the conversion so I could test using a grain bag.

This was my first partial mash and I used a grain bag fit inside entirely, draped the top of the bag over the sides then screwed the lid on. I know there are tons of variables on efficiency but according to beersmith I only got 48%.. Could one of the causes of this low efficiency be that I used that bag tactic instead of the steel mesh braid?


I'm not up to speed on this method but nobody else has chimed in. As long as dough in well, and get a good sparge, I don't see why it would be that bad. It may be a bit less efficient, but I would look towards other factors here, like your crush. I have found the crush to be the biggest factor in my efficiency. That said, do the conversion!
 
I'm not up to speed on this method but nobody else has chimed in. As long as dough in well, and get a good sparge, I don't see why it would be that bad. It may be a bit less efficient, but I would look towards other factors here, like your crush. I have found the crush to be the biggest factor in my efficiency. That said, do the conversion!

I am pretty sure it was the crush. I'll follow your advice/command and do the conversion. I think I'll just order from Bargain Fittings

I'll just need the steel mesh braid and the "weld less fitting for cooler" right?
 
Quick question on ordering the stuff from bargain fittings.

It doesn't specifically list what is in the kit and I don't have the cooler with me. Should I get the regular cooler or thick walled cooler kit for the 10gallon rubbermaid from home depot?
 
Thanks for posting this!!! :mug:

After a few months break, finally picked up the washers from Fastenal and put this together last night. Held together for 90 minutes with no leaks.

FB from Midwest and a couple kits supposed to arrive Monday.

Can't wait to brew a couple batches next weekend. After these two batches, I'll be buying saving up for a turkey fryer and making the final move to AG. :rockin:
 
Quick question on ordering the stuff from bargain fittings.

It doesn't specifically list what is in the kit and I don't have the cooler with me. Should I get the regular cooler or thick walled cooler kit for the 10gallon rubbermaid from home depot?

I have the 10 gal. Rubbermaid cooler from HD, stamped with the HD logo. I ordered the regular cooler kit, complete with braid, from Bargain Fittings and everything works just fine.
 
I just finished building this. I bought the parts over a year ago but a new baby got in the way of brewing I was lucky to get one or two extract sessions in no way was I going to start up AG with such limited time available. The only alteration I made was to leave 6" of hose inside the braid attached to the bulkhead. I am hoping the grain bed will push this to the bottom and lower the effective pickup point reducing the amount of wort left when I sparge. I didn't read all 870 posts, has anyone else done this? If so, did it work?
 
I made one today, I used a 10 gallon Igloo round cooler. The wall is thinner than the rubbermaid, and i had to change the parts slightly. It leaks a drop or 2 an hour...I think i'm ok.

Here are some pics:



hrm...I can't post embedded images :(
 
what would the proper vessel heat capacity setting be for this in beer tools? thanks for the help
 
I just did my first ag batch with this style of mash tun, It worked great. Thanks Skifast for the mod. (I ski fast too)
Word
Doug
 
Thanks for this thread and all those who contributed to it! Just brewed my 2nd AG, and first with the 10gal Home Depot cooler mash tun. It was $40 for the cooler and probably $20-$30 for the rest, so $60-70 to purchase this. Well worth it! With 8lbs of hops on the way, I'm sure this mash tun will get more than its fair share of use! :mug: :tank:
 
I just made a 5 gallon version. Menards had the 5 gallon Rubbermaid for just under $15 You can't beat that. I couldn't find an o-ring so I used a garden hose washer, seem to work ok, slipped right over the 3/8" brass nipple.
 
I had the 5 gallon Rubbermaid with 4" copper tubing running through a stopper with the braided stainless attached to input side and 3/8" hose + clamp on the output side. Always worried about keeping the stopper secure. But now, this is great. Thanks Skifast! Going to get 10 gallon from Home Depot for MLT and convert my 5 gallon to sparge tank so I can keep closer to 170.
 
I see there are many brass pieces to this. Doesn't brass contain a small amount of lead? wouldn't an all stainless bulkhead be better albeit more expensive?
 
On my way to creating my easy MLT....Got the last 10gal cooler @ HD for $34 & a plumber supply friend hooked me up with all the hardware. Just gotta buy a SS braid, High temp vinyl & SS washers! Sweet deal! I'm psyched for AG!!
 
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