gahrens
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Home depot has the 5 gals for $18 right by the Louis Joliet mall in IL.
Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion
- Thread starter FlyGuy
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Looking for some help here. Bought the 5 Gal Rubbermaid today and i can not get the bulkhead secure at all. It seems like the nipple is too long because the barbs only screw down a turn or two before they are really tight. Should I just keep stacking tons of washers, or am i doing something wrong. I double checked the parts and they are exactly what is in the original pic.
slimer
Well-Known Member
Just keep stacking washers on the outside...
leboeuf
Well-Known Member
Or get a shorter nipple...
Boodlemania
Well-Known Member
For those having issues with the stainless fender washers:
I bought 1/2" fender washers and used a uni-bit/step bit to open the holes to the proper size. Worked great. Clamped the washers one at a time in a vise and drilled slowly, so as not to burn up the bit on the stainless or warp the washer with too much pressure.
I bought 1/2" fender washers and used a uni-bit/step bit to open the holes to the proper size. Worked great. Clamped the washers one at a time in a vise and drilled slowly, so as not to burn up the bit on the stainless or warp the washer with too much pressure.
Talloak
Well-Known Member
I am getting one tear drop sized leak every 60 seconds. Is this acceptable? I may be able to tighten even more, feel like I could break something. The washers (2) on the inside don't conform well to the curved cooler.
I picked up some smaller 5/8" washers from Lowes, they are Zinc/Steel - whatever that means. Can I use them on the inside of the cooler to put more pressure on the rubber grommet/washer that came with the cooler?
Is everyone pickling their brass fittings? What does this even mean? Is it necessary?
Thanks
I picked up some smaller 5/8" washers from Lowes, they are Zinc/Steel - whatever that means. Can I use them on the inside of the cooler to put more pressure on the rubber grommet/washer that came with the cooler?
Is everyone pickling their brass fittings? What does this even mean? Is it necessary?
Thanks
TwoHeadsBrewing
Well-Known Member
You shouldn't be getting any leaks at all, and any that you have now may get worse. The time to figure it out is not when you're in the middle of the mash 
. You can use zinc/steel but they will corrode over time and you don't really want that stuff in your beer. If you have a Fastenal in your area, replace those washers with stainless steel ones. If you can't find them at fastenal, check out Bargain Fittings or McMaster-Carr.
As far as pickling brass: not necessary unless you want to be super anal about it. I've had some brass ball valves on my system before and have noticed no tastes, blindness or death from not pickling the fittings.
. You can use zinc/steel but they will corrode over time and you don't really want that stuff in your beer. If you have a Fastenal in your area, replace those washers with stainless steel ones. If you can't find them at fastenal, check out Bargain Fittings or McMaster-Carr. As far as pickling brass: not necessary unless you want to be super anal about it. I've had some brass ball valves on my system before and have noticed no tastes, blindness or death from not pickling the fittings.
I did my first AG today with this setup. Worked like charm!!!
A question though, did any of your coolers inner liners warp when putting in your strike or sparge water? I have a weird bubble on the inside of mine, I'm sure its nothing to worry about, just wondering if I'm the only one. There was alot of popping and groaning comming out of that thing. :rockin:
A question though, did any of your coolers inner liners warp when putting in your strike or sparge water? I have a weird bubble on the inside of mine, I'm sure its nothing to worry about, just wondering if I'm the only one. There was alot of popping and groaning comming out of that thing. :rockin:
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FlyGuy
Well-Known Member
Unless you put in near-boiling water, you shouldn't have got a bubble, although it won't hurt anything. The creaking and groaning is typical on the first use of the cooler. It will even happen with cool water, although warm water makes it louder.
After one or two brews, it won't happen any more.
After one or two brews, it won't happen any more.
well it was sparge water at 170. I think it was just the glue getting hot and seperating from the foam and liner.
jasper9
Well-Known Member
i'm having a frustrating time trying to build this one. probably i am just a newb to hardware and missing something simple.
first problem was the barb and the ball valve does not seem to screw on very far onto the nipple - is this normal? just force it with a wrench? it seems to be resisting more than i would expect.
second problem was i picked up some 5/8th SS flat washers while i wait for the fenders i ordered and they will not slide onto the nipple past only a few threads. looks like either it's too tight or the threads are not even.
"weird" i thought so i went back and grabbed another nipple - same exact issues. i got all the recommended part numbers from home depot etc etc.. Any suggestions? i tried forcing it and that did nothing good....
first problem was the barb and the ball valve does not seem to screw on very far onto the nipple - is this normal? just force it with a wrench? it seems to be resisting more than i would expect.
second problem was i picked up some 5/8th SS flat washers while i wait for the fenders i ordered and they will not slide onto the nipple past only a few threads. looks like either it's too tight or the threads are not even.
"weird" i thought so i went back and grabbed another nipple - same exact issues. i got all the recommended part numbers from home depot etc etc.. Any suggestions? i tried forcing it and that did nothing good....
I had to force screw on the ball valve the first time, then back it off, and upon final assembly they went together easily. Also, I had to file out some of the inside of my washers because they wouldnt fit over the threads as well.
Boodlemania
Well-Known Member
Use a step-bit, sometimes called a uni-bit. Works like a charm for opening up the holes on your SS washers.
So I built this cooler MLT a couple weeks ago and it is working pretty well, but I have a couple issues.
First, the braid floats up and gets in the mash, especially when I stir, because I can't see where it is. I have a pretty long braid (I think 20 inches?) and I put a notched vinyl tube in it to give it some body. It is ziptied on and ziptie/clamped at the end. Is it ok for it to float up?
Second, I have gotten 65% efficiency both times I have brewed so far, even after trying to rectify a few things the second time around. This is ok, but I am really hoping for more. I have a different thread about that.
How are you guys cleaning this thing? I rinse it very well but it still smells quite malty. Should i be PBW'ing it?
First, the braid floats up and gets in the mash, especially when I stir, because I can't see where it is. I have a pretty long braid (I think 20 inches?) and I put a notched vinyl tube in it to give it some body. It is ziptied on and ziptie/clamped at the end. Is it ok for it to float up?
Second, I have gotten 65% efficiency both times I have brewed so far, even after trying to rectify a few things the second time around. This is ok, but I am really hoping for more. I have a different thread about that.
How are you guys cleaning this thing? I rinse it very well but it still smells quite malty. Should i be PBW'ing it?
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That's why the square head plug is used at the end of the braid, to provide some weight and anchor it to the bottom.
Mine is arranged in a big loop, connected at both ends. No floating problems.
I got the square head plug, but couldn't fit it in the end of the braid for the life of me. The other end of the braid goes on a barbed end, which fits fine. Maybe if I can find a smaller square head or something similar. I have seen the big loops and that looks like a good idea, but I am not looking forward to pricking my fingers with the tendrils of a new braid
DanInMadison
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Picked up the 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler at Home Depot in Madison, WI for $37.98 + tax. Will be picking up the rest of the parts and putting it together this weekend.
Does anyone have watts part numbers/suggestions for the T-braid setup? I have a 20inch braid that I think I want to repurpose into a loop with a T.
I think I am going to build one of these in the next week or 2, just to play around w/ a false bottom in it w/ a diptube. How big do they make these coolers? 12-15 gallon?
Talloak
Well-Known Member
I put this together, and had a leak. One drop every 60 seconds. The problem appeared to be that the fender washers on the inside were coming in contact with the cooler wall and not the rubber insert that comes with the cooler. So I bought some regular 5/8" SS washers, and slipped those in there to apply more pressure to the rubber insert. They don't have such a large OD, so they contact the rubber insert before contacting the cooler wall - the opposite of the fender washers. Leak fixed.
Still used fenders on the outside of the cooler, though.
Still used fenders on the outside of the cooler, though.
There are surely many different sizes, but when I was looking for mine the most common were 5 or 10 gallon.
I have a 10 gal Igloo cooler that I have attempted to convert and it leaks a lot.
I have 5 SS washers on the inside then on the outside I have the stock seal along with 5 more SS washers backing it. The igloo seems to have a larger hole than the Rubbermaid version. The opening is 7/8 and I am using 3/8 hardware.
Any ideas or thoughts on how I can get this to seal correctly?
I have 5 SS washers on the inside then on the outside I have the stock seal along with 5 more SS washers backing it. The igloo seems to have a larger hole than the Rubbermaid version. The opening is 7/8 and I am using 3/8 hardware.
Any ideas or thoughts on how I can get this to seal correctly?
paledragon
Well-Known Member
search mcmaster carr for part number 7545A471. it's food grade silicone sealant. downside is, once you've used it, you're stuck with what you installed in your mashtun.
This post:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ch...mlt-conversion-23008/index65.html#post1178960
describes how I built my MLT from a 5 gallon Igloo. Item #3 describes how I prevented it from leaking - it works great, no leaks at all. The only problem is getting the 7/8 OD, 5/8 ID tubing - I was lucky enough to find a piece of scrap at Home Depot and one of their employees gave me a short piece at no charge. You will probably need to cut, grind, or sand down the outside of it to make it fit after it has been slipped over the nipple. What I like about this method is that I only have to tighten the inside adapter finger tight and don't need Teflon tape on the inside barb adapter to nipple junction, so I can disassemble everything after use for cleaning, and reassemble with no tools.
1/2" is fairly common to just about everything I do.
jaybird's false bottoms ROCK...
"in my best Jamil voice"
Wheeeeeeeeeeell...
that is not entirely true... they also make a 3 gallon, which would be perfect for those that want to do mini-mash
IMO the cylindrical coolers hold the mash temps better, due to the fact that the mash isnt spread out inside a larger cooler. Just seems to me that I have seen a lot of posts about people comming back after the resting period, to see a 4 degree drop in their mash, and most of these have been with rectangular coolers. OR... they arent pre heating them
Beau815
Well-Known Member
Does anyone have the FULL part list. I know it shows SS clamps at the beginning but then it was switched to something else cuz the screws rusted. I am thinking of making the circular mesh SS braid. Anyways, I got three 10 gallon igloo coolers and am willing to trade one for the mash and lauder pieces needed.
SilverKing
Well-Known Member
Anyone in here use a SS false bottom and batch sparge? I got a free one from a friend and was wondering if it's worth using over the braid in a 10Gal round cooler. The braid has been working fine, but I am leaving a bit of wort in the bottom of the MLT during lauter.
...not going to bother fly sparging any time soon. just curious.
...not going to bother fly sparging any time soon. just curious.
I'm thinking of combining a false bottom and a braid so the braid doesn't float up and to keep grains away from the braid. I'm just thinking of using an upside down steamer basket.
Talloak
Well-Known Member
Even after using a nut to keep the end from floating down, this version of a screen performed poorly. I plan on buying a bazooka or something else besides the recommended use. I had a stuck sparge the first time I used this. Only made a cream ale with less than 10llbs of grain total. BS.
I am happy with the cooler itself. Damn I hate laptops. Mac or PC. The keyboard is worthless either way.
The point is, a 10g cooler is worth the bucks because it will do you a 5g batch of beer up to like, 1.200, or a 10g up to 1.070.
I amdrunks anddone editing this.
I am happy with the cooler itself. Damn I hate laptops. Mac or PC. The keyboard is worthless either way.
The point is, a 10g cooler is worth the bucks because it will do you a 5g batch of beer up to like, 1.200, or a 10g up to 1.070.
I amdrunks anddone editing this.
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FlyGuy
Well-Known Member
Did you put rubber tubing inside the braid? If so, that was your problem. Common mistake.
Talloak
Well-Known Member
No, no rubber tubing. I decided to go the original route and try the SS hose clamps. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Everything else went good with the cooler though. It held the temp pretty well even though I forgot to preheat it. Duh.
Everything else went good with the cooler though. It held the temp pretty well even though I forgot to preheat it. Duh.
OP
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FlyGuy
Well-Known Member
Then my next question is whether you got a genuine stainless steel braid, or a cheap plastic imitation instead. The real braids are VERY difficult to get stuck.
Talloak
Well-Known Member
It is a stainless steel braid taken from a sink supply hose, 12" long. I am positive it is not an imitation because the frayed ends where I cut it are quite sharp. I poked myself once putting the nut in the end.
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