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30 days from when?? About 14 days fermentation and 21 days bottle conditioning... sounds a bit short to me... Unless kegging then you can take off about a week.
 
Hey all.
Question/issue here i am having with my B20 (original unit- aka NOT the B+).

Got a reciepie i am running right now that i have used before- no modifications to it. It is stuck on the sparge step.
-I have paused and re-started it several times
-i have killed the power twice now and let it re-boot.
-the sparge just wont get past the "step 1/2" phase.

Anybody got any miricals for me to save this batch?
 
Nate R said:
Hey all.
Question/issue here i am having with my B20 (original unit- aka NOT the B+).

Got a reciepie i am running right now that i have used before- no modifications to it. It is stuck on the sparge step.
-I have paused and re-started it several times
-i have killed the power twice now and let it re-boot.
-the sparge just wont get past the "step 1/2" phase.

Anybody got any miricals for me to save this batch?
Click to expand...

Not really constructive - but what I think of the Brewie - take it out to the curb and get something that really works.....
 
Congrats. Hopefully you can figure it out to finish the brew!

Only run one heater at a time or it will pop the fuse!
 
Good deal. Just transfer to the boil side and run the heater. Hit the hop valves when you hit a boil and recirculate on the boil side. Close the mash tun valves.
 
HarkinBanks said:
Good deal. Just transfer to the boil side and run the heater. Hit the hop valves when you hit a boil and recirculate on the boil side. Close the mash tun valves.
Click to expand...
Thanks again!!
So cool!!

Side note- is the temp listed at the bottom a live reading? Worried now maybe my boil heater is not kicking on- maybe that was my sparge issue. Uggh.
 
If I remember correctly the reading is a live reading for 3.0.

In 3.1.2 developer mode you can set a target temp.
 
Hello fellow Brewie Users.
I have the Original Brewie (B20). NOT the B+

It appears that my Boil Tank is not heating- like not at all. (This explains the Sparge issue I had above).
Everything else appears to be working.

Any thoughts on how to go about fixing this? I know the B+ units had some over-heating wires/ melting issues, but I cannot recall any issues with the B20 heating issues.

I am going to scour the files/ info we have all compiled here, but if anyone has an idea please share!

Thanks all!

EDIT- see attached file for repair. This seem correct to you all? Also- anyone have a source for the part? Thanks all!
 

Attachments

  • [E122] Boil heater element_.pdf
    3.4 MB · Views: 44
Last edited:
You will need to open it up and check the wires. My eBay B20 had pristine connections and then only after a few trials and one brew the connectors were becoming discolored. The one connection to the thermal switch wasn’t even on properly, so that could be a problem, it may have come off. Then the circuit isn’t completed and you would have no power. You don’t need to take all of those items apart to get to the heaters but it is a bit more tricky on the B20 vs the B+. Go slow and be careful not to cut yourself on any of the sharp objects in there, especially the heat exchanger edges. Take some pics and report back. My suspicion is the wires.
 
HarkinBanks said:
You will need to open it up and check the wires. My eBay B20 had pristine connections and then only after a few trials and one brew the connectors were becoming discolored. The one connection to the thermal switch wasn’t even on properly, so that could be a problem, it may have come off. Then the circuit isn’t completed and you would have no power. You don’t need to take all of those items apart to get to the heaters but it is a bit more tricky on the B20 vs the B+. Go slow and be careful not to cut yourself on any of the sharp objects in there, especially the heat exchanger edges. Take some pics and report back. My suspicion is the wires.
Click to expand...
Thanks- especialy for the tip about getting cut!!

I did put in an order request on the Tawain website for two replacement burners so waiting to see what that cost will be.

I am tempted to just change out all the hoses while i have it open... but maybe one thing at a time.
 
I doubt it is the heaters. They are just ceramic heaters. My bet is on the wires and spade connectors.
 
Nate R said:
Well that means i need to tear this baby open tommorrow!!
Thankfully there is there step by step guide above.
Click to expand...

It is almost 100% the wires. Once you get to the page with the 'remove insulation' you'll be able to see if they look all burned up. If so, there are some pro tips here on what to buy and how to replace: http://www.brewieforum.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7
 
Ok, so have been able to slowly pull this thing apart. Taking pictures as I go to help the put back together.

See the attached pictures- what do you all think? @HarkinBanks ? @sniperd ? Any one else?

I see some scorching, but the wires (thick black) look different than the instructions I have (loose white covers). Is this an issue?

Any input is much appreciated! Thanks all!!

20191029_125344.jpg 20191029_125348.jpg 20191029_125358.jpg
 
Nate R said:
Ok, so have been able to slowly pull this thing apart. Taking pictures as I go to help the put back together.

See the attached pictures- what do you all think? @HarkinBanks ? @sniperd ? Any one else?

I see some scorching, but the wires (thick black) look different than the instructions I have (loose white covers). Is this an issue?

Any input is much appreciated! Thanks all!!

View attachment 650346 View attachment 650347 View attachment 650348
Click to expand...

Could be a failed thermostat, you should be able to test it with a voltage meter. It's the little circular thing next to the heater. It's job is to turn off the heater when it gets too hot. Links to the part on Digikey are in BrewieForum thread.
 
Gardiner4 said:
Could be a failed thermostat, you should be able to test it with a voltage meter. It's the little circular thing next to the heater. It's job is to turn off the heater when it gets too hot. Links to the part on Digikey are in BrewieForum thread.
Click to expand...
Would that just turn the boil heater off completely? I get no heating from this.
 
You should be able to check for continuity with a multi-meter. If the thermostat failed open you would get no continuity. Check all the wires and the thermostat. My wires were already in pieces when I opened it up.
 
I'm certainly no expert when it comes to electricity, but it looks like serious problems to me. Not just a thermostat. ALL the wires shown look burnt to me, at least to some degree.
 
Definitely replace all those wires, terminals, and thermostat for good measure. Clean the heating element terminals very well before putting the new ones on. The insulating pad looks quite dark as well. Wondering if there wasn't a run away heating type event.

If you can get your hands on a multimeter you should check the heating element (just in case) and the thermostat (for Shi*s and giggles). You definitely want a slightly higher rated thermostat than what brewie initially used.

Check you tube for a quick tutorial on how to use a multimeter to check for continuity.
 
Well I never got the Fluke i've wanted since high school, but I do think I have a placewhereshipsdock-freight model I can use... I am simply looking to check for an open or closed circuit, correct? Or do I need to measure resistance as well?

Also- based on this, is it safe to assume the issue is NOT the heater itself? So I can keep the existing heater and focus on the wires, terminal, and thermostat, correct?
 
Gardiner4 said:
Could be a failed thermostat, you should be able to test it with a voltage meter. It's the little circular thing next to the heater. It's job is to turn off the heater when it gets too hot. Links to the part on Digikey are in BrewieForum thread.
Click to expand...
the Digiki links are for orders of 1,000 or more... I cannot locate on Amazon- any other suggestions?
Thanks!
 
Typically, a cheap multimeter will show 0.5-2 ohms with the leads shorted (poor calibration/crappy leads). A good thermostat would be right around there when below its cutoff temp. I would expect the heater to show probably in the neighborhood of around 10 ohms if its in good shape. If its bad, it will probably show a short circuit (the 0.5-2.0 reading) or open circuit (a lot of meters show '0L' or a really high number).

On digikey, copy the manufacturer's part number into the search bar. They typically sell the same part in a few different item numbers (bulk [>1000] and usually different types of packaging [tape and reel, individually bagged, lead free]). Look at the minimum qty number on the search results and choose one that isn't 1,000.

I ordered these (all part numbers are digikey):

thermostat (130*C cutoff [some people have used up to 150*C as they really only save a dry burn - steel tank bottom won't be much worse at 150 than 130C): 317-1550-ND

10-12AWG terminals (uninsulated, most insulated terminals are barely rated to 100*C): WM17811CT-ND
^those have pin crimp terminals which need a more expensive crimper - i had a tool to do that. you may be better with these: WM6913CT-ND, which only require a standard terminal crimper (much cheaper:CT-4071-1R-ND)

SSR side terminals (not mounted directly in the heated area so insulated is fine): 277-11138-ND

i used some self fusing tape rated to 180*C to insulate the terminals at the thermostat and burner, but that's quite expensive (i had a roll laying around) - this stuff is rated to temp and would do the job of providing basic insulation: 3M10822-ND

For wire, i would go with 10AWG if possible (thats what the terminals will handle and bigger is always better when passing that much current). i like the ETFE/PTFE insulated - but thats also expensive at the large gauges.

Instead of the fabric sheathing the whole cable, i like this stuff to line the sheet metal edges instead: RP814-ND

i hope this helps.
 
Hamboner said:
Typically, a cheap multimeter will show 0.5-2 ohms with the leads shorted (poor calibration/crappy leads). A good thermostat would be right around there when below its cutoff temp. I would expect the heater to show probably in the neighborhood of around 10 ohms if its in good shape. If its bad, it will probably show a short circuit (the 0.5-2.0 reading) or open circuit (a lot of meters show '0L' or a really high number).

On digikey, copy the manufacturer's part number into the search bar. They typically sell the same part in a few different item numbers (bulk [>1000] and usually different types of packaging [tape and reel, individually bagged, lead free]). Look at the minimum qty number on the search results and choose one that isn't 1,000.

I ordered these (all part numbers are digikey):

thermostat (130*C cutoff [some people have used up to 150*C as they really only save a dry burn - steel tank bottom won't be much worse at 150 than 130C): 317-1550-ND

10-12AWG terminals (uninsulated, most insulated terminals are barely rated to 100*C): WM17811CT-ND
^those have pin crimp terminals which need a more expensive crimper - i had a tool to do that. you may be better with these: WM6913CT-ND, which only require a standard terminal crimper (much cheaper:CT-4071-1R-ND)

SSR side terminals (not mounted directly in the heated area so insulated is fine): 277-11138-ND

i used some self fusing tape rated to 180*C to insulate the terminals at the thermostat and burner, but that's quite expensive (i had a roll laying around) - this stuff is rated to temp and would do the job of providing basic insulation: 3M10822-ND

For wire, i would go with 10AWG if possible (thats what the terminals will handle and bigger is always better when passing that much current). i like the ETFE/PTFE insulated - but thats also expensive at the large gauges.

Instead of the fabric sheathing the whole cable, i like this stuff to line the sheet metal edges instead: RP814-ND

i hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Um... "eff yeah!" this helps!! Thank you!!!

Any suggestions for the insulation padding? Mine was so brittle it easily shredded/tore.

Thanks again!!
 
Based on the pics I would say it is safe to assume the wires and thermal cutoff switch are dead. I still think the heater is fine but this will be a trial and error process. I would replace the wires only and bypass the cutoff switch and test the heater with water in the tank. Then I would wire in a new thermal switch and test again with water in the tank. Then I would wire in a muffin fan to keep that area cooler. Otherwise this will keep happening.

Here is the silicone tape I used. It is self fusing and you can use it to wrap the ends of the spade connectors. I found it at my local hardware store. It’s not expensive and works well.

IMG_0450.JPG
 
HarkinBanks said:
Based on the pics I would say it is safe to assume the wires and thermal cutoff switch are dead. I still think the heater is fine but this will be a trial and error process. I would replace the wires only and bypass the cutoff switch and test the heater with water in the tank. Then I would wire in a new thermal switch and test again with water in the tank. Then I would wire in a muffin fan to keep that area cooler. Otherwise this will keep happening.

Here is the silicone tape I used. It is self fusing and you can use it to wrap the ends of the spade connectors. I found it at my local hardware store. It’s not expensive and works well.

View attachment 650392
Click to expand...
Well... for the amount of time i spent taking this apart... i would prefer to just replace it all at once, seal it up, and be done with it.

Can a guy get these parts at a home depot? Web order?
Just trying to get this repaired and put back together... and off of the kitchen counter. Swmbo's counter... lol.
 
The muffin fan was a digi key order for me. I couldn’t find one with a low enough draw at any computer store. The temp switch is also a special order item. The wires, connectors and silicone tape can all be sourced at Home Depot. Pull the existing wires and head there and replicate.
 
HarkinBanks said:
The muffin fan was a digi key order for me. I couldn’t find one with a low enough draw at any computer store. The temp switch is also a special order item. The wires, connectors and silicone tape can all be sourced at Home Depot. Pull the existing wires and head there and replicate.
Click to expand...
Do you have a part number for the fan?
Also- these modifications only need to happen to the boil side, correct- as that is where the current gets up to higher temps due to the boil, and the mash tun tends to stay cooler?

Again, thanks all!
 
Hello all! So I am working through these possible burnt ends (Mmmmm... brisket! Sorry I digress... lol).
Here is a picture of just the heater- this seems ok, correct?
Also, here is a picture of the themro-switch thingy- I will be ordering a replacement today.
Also- a few questions (appreciate the help- I know I can read past threads but I would prefer latest up to date)

-What model fan should I order?
-What direction does the air-flow go (INTO the brewie, or OUT of the brewie?)
-Can I just wire it in parallel with the existing fans?
-Has anyone found a replacement insulation blanket? (Mine is torn/ burnt)
-When changing the wires, I assume you run them all the way back to the Brewie Control Board, correct?

Thanks all!

20191031_111148.jpg 20191031_111217.jpg 20191031_111250.jpg 20191031_112053.jpg 20191031_112058.jpg 20191031_112105.jpg 20191031_112108.jpg
 
Nate R said:
Hello all! So I am working through these possible burnt ends (Mmmmm... brisket! Sorry I digress... lol).
Here is a picture of just the heater- this seems ok, correct?
Also, here is a picture of the themro-switch thingy- I will be ordering a replacement today.
Also- a few questions (appreciate the help- I know I can read past threads but I would prefer latest up to date)

-What model fan should I order?
-What direction does the air-flow go (INTO the brewie, or OUT of the brewie?)
-Can I just wire it in parallel with the existing fans?
-Has anyone found a replacement insulation blanket? (Mine is torn/ burnt)
-When changing the wires, I assume you run them all the way back to the Brewie Control Board, correct?

Thanks all!

View attachment 650593 View attachment 650594 View attachment 650595 View attachment 650596 View attachment 650597 View attachment 650598 View attachment 650599
Click to expand...

I'm glad you are changing out the wires, they look unhappy. I would guess the heater is fine and the problem is really just the wires (and maybe that thermostat which you should switch) and just fully replace them (run them all the way back). I didn't get a fan, didn't think of it at the time. I just reused my insulated blanket, even though I torn it a bit.
 
Nate R said:
Do you have a part number for the fan?
Also- these modifications only need to happen to the boil side, correct- as that is where the current gets up to higher temps due to the boil, and the mash tun tends to stay cooler?

Again, thanks all!
Click to expand...

Here is a link to the fan:

https://www.digikey.com/product-det...rporation/1606KL-04W-B50-L00/P12817-ND/740174


If the link doesn't work, search for 1606KL-04W-B50-L00

I only do the muffin fan on the boil side, but I do replace the spade connections on the mash tun side. I cut off the existing plastic covers and spade connections until I get clean wire and then put on new spade connectors insulated with the silicone tape all the way up to the end of the spade connector. The mash side does not get as hot as the boil side but it is a good preventative measure.

Place the fan so the "NMB-MAT" logo is facing the element.

You cannot wire it in parallel with the existing fans. I ran it back to the power supply like Ironcyberia did here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/brewie.506703/page-32#post-8465938
 
HarkinBanks said:
Here is a link to the fan:

https://www.digikey.com/product-det...rporation/1606KL-04W-B50-L00/P12817-ND/740174


If the link doesn't work, search for 1606KL-04W-B50-L00

I only do the muffin fan on the boil side, but I do replace the spade connections on the mash tun side. I cut off the existing plastic covers and spade connections until I get clean wire and then put on new spade connectors insulated with the silicone tape all the way up to the end of the spade connector. The mash side does not get as hot as the boil side but it is a good preventative measure.

Place the fan so the "NMB-MAT" logo is facing the element.

You cannot wire it in parallel with the existing fans. I ran it back to the power supply like Ironcyberia did here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/brewie.506703/page-32#post-8465938
Click to expand...

Thank goodness for this community!!!
Thanks for the links and all the advice!

A few more questions...
-Does the insulating tape replace the silicon yellow plastic pieces?
-How does the fan get secured inside the unit?

Thnaks!
 
Yes. Pull off the plastic that comes on the spade connectors and then wrap with silicone tape.

You need to drill a hole in the plate and I secured with a screw and locknut.
 
HarkinBanks said:
Yes. Pull off the plastic that comes on the spade connectors and then wrap with silicone tape.

You need to drill a hole in the plate and I secured with a screw and locknut.
Click to expand...

Again... thank you for all the help. I just want to get this right the forst time.

When you say "plate"... you mean the metal that is between the boil tank and the bottom of the unit where all the pumps etc are attached?
 

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