BrewCommander - Impressive offering from John

[Robert Waligora]

I'm not sure if the pricing varies by output option (edit - it looks like the system ships ready for all three common outputs 120v20a / 240v30a / Gas), but the page lists $375 for a pretty sexy 240v 30a controller.

https://www.blichmannengineering.com/brewcommander.html

Clean attractive builds with great HMI is right in Blichmann's wheelhouse, but this also seems to add "value proposition" to the list. I don't think I need an upgrade, but this seems like a compelling choice for someone building a system and wanting plug-and-play simplicity.

I ordered the 120v Brew Commander and BoilCoil. Turns out that They shipped me the 240v BoilCoil and I got to see the difference between the 120v and 240v plugs. The 240v prongs on the BoilCoil are exactly same looking, but the blades are just a little bigger, so you can't use it.

Anyways, I got off on a tangent about the BoilCoil, the result is that BrewCommander plug only plugs into 20Amp 120 outlet and only 120v BoilCoil can plug into it.

 

[Zooksta]

BrewCommander plug only plugs into 20Amp 120 outlet and only 120v BoilCoil can plug into it.

I replaced the 20 amp end on the extension cord with a 15 amp. The RIMS element I'm running off the BC only requires a 15 amp circuit.

 

[Robert Waligora]

I don't think that is an option for me. The BoilCoil could use up to 2000watts. I bought a 20a GFCI outlet, not I need to decide if I want to run a new wire all the way from Garage to Basement and have a new circuit. Our just use the existing wire, which is probably only rated for 15amps.

What irritates me, is that if I have to run a new wire, I would have just run 220v instead. The whole reason to get 120v, was so that I don't need to run a new wire.

 

[Robert Waligora]

I replaced the 20 amp end on the extension cord with a 15 amp. The RIMS element I'm running off the BC only requires a 15 amp circuit.

BTW: how long does it take to reach a boil or heat up strike water with RIMS system. The Boil Coil listed 2 different times, 1 with whirlpool and 1 time without.

 

[Zooksta]

BTW: how long does it take to reach a boil or heat up strike water with RIMS system. The Boil Coil listed 2 different times, 1 with whirlpool and 1 time without.

I don't use the RIMS element to heat the strike water (at least not yet), I picked up the 120v BC only for the RIMS element. I also have a 240v BC that I use for my HLT and BK, I use this with a 5500 watt element and I think it's about 30 minutes to heat 10 gallons of strike water.

240v is definitely the way to go, especially if you have to run the wire. If I was you I would try to exchange or sell the 120v BC and pick up a 240v version and run the wire for that.

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

As far as the 24 hour out timer you can use to heat strike water: is there an option to start the pump at the time you choose to start the element with this in advance timer? Id go outlet of hlt to inlet of pump to outlet of pump to inlet of herms coil to outlet of herms coil to inlet of hlt whirlpool arm. This would allow the strike water to run across the probe id have in a T fitting on the outlet of the herms which would later be used to control mash temps

 

[Bobby_M]

As far as the 24 hour out timer you can use to heat strike water: is there an option to start the pump at the time you choose to start the element with this in advance timer? Id go outlet of hlt to inlet of pump to outlet of pump to inlet of herms coil to outlet of herms coil to inlet of hlt whirlpool arm. This would allow the strike water to run across the probe id have in a T fitting on the outlet of the herms which would later be used to control mash temps

Yes, you set all the parameters such as temp, power and pump state and then initiate the delay. Upon reaching the delay, all those set parameters will activate. Make sure you prime the pump and open valves to ensure it starts up as expected.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

Yes, you set all the parameters such as temp, power and pump state and then initiate the delay. Upon reaching the delay, all those set parameters will activate. Make sure you prime the pump and open valves to ensure it starts up as expected.

Is there any real reason to do this? If you're starting on a timer, a little extra time doesn't matter. I prefer not to have extra wear and tear on my pump and avoid running it when I'm not present in case it doesn't prime right or loses input flow for whatever reason.

 

[sfrisby]

.

 

[Bobby_M]

It depends how you run your system. In the case of a 3 vessel herms, I would prefer to heat the strike water in the MLT through the HERMS coil so I would need the wort pump to run. You wouldnt leave it to chance to prime it. You do that the night before and it wont un- prime unless there is a major leak.

Is there any real reason to do this? If you're starting on a timer, a little extra time doesn't matter. I prefer not to have extra wear and tear on my pump and avoid running it when I'm not present in case it doesn't prime right or loses input flow for whatever reason.

 

[Cato1507]

I've been looking at both the Brew Commander paired with a 10 gal G-2 electric kettle or the SS Brewtech 1v controller and a SS 10gal kettle.

I do BIAB and it seems like the more costly SS 1v combo would be more bag friendly than the Blichmann because of the temp probe/thermocouple location.

I only have a 20amp 240v circuit available so have emailed SS Brewtech to see if I can use their 1v system with a 20amp instead of 30 amp circuit. Obviously I wouldn't be able to use more than 3750w of their 5500 watt element but that's fine with me, as I'm currently using a 3500w induction burner and have to tone it back to 2700w or less when boiling.

Edit- SS Brewtech says their system has to be on a 30amp circuit so that's out for me since I run my tablesaw on the 20 amp 240v when I'm not brewing.

So now the Blichmann system could work for me, but would be better if I relocated the temp probe. Have to decide if I want to go this route.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

It depends how you run your system. In the case of a 3 vessel herms, I would prefer to heat the strike water in the MLT through the HERMS coil so I would need the wort pump to run. You wouldnt leave it to chance to prime it. You do that the night before and it wont un- prime unless there is a major leak.

Good point. For some reason I was thinking more about a single vessel system.

 

[craigmw]

When I spoke to them at NHC, the one thing that really worried me, was that they had no way to flash the firmware if they needed to update. They basically said, if there was a major problem they'd have to have everybody send it back and change it. In this day-in-age, it's amazes me that they didn't add a usb port to flash new updates etc.

I contacted Blichmann about this and they said that the BrewCommander has a micro-SD card slot that allows for firmware upgrades. So it would seem that user firmware upgrades should be doable if they are willing to provide firmware downloads (or if they sell the SD cards).

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

Quick question: does the DIN rain come with the Brew Commander?

 

[craigmw]

Blichmann Eng. posted a Youtube video showing how to change the orientation of the outlets from the back to the bottom of the unit (which is very cool btw). In that, it doesn't appear to involve any DIN units, but instead, the SSR is directly mounted to the enclosure. They do not use any contactors, breakers or other items, and directly wire 220V hot wires to the SSR, so no need for DIN components. This is actually one of the reasons I decided to DIY my own controller with an EZ Boil DSPR320, although I may eventually replace this with a Raspberry Pi running a modified version of CellarWarden that can control the element via software. Having a simple way to disconnect the SSR from the heater element seemed like an important thing to do even though I've splurged and bought a 45A Opto22 SSR. To me it seems like just too much juice to not include a provision for a 220V disconnect via a contactor. Like Brian at Short Circuited Brewers says, paraphrasing, "Beer is not worth dying for..."

 

[highland_brewer]

Quick question: does the DIN rain come with the Brew Commander?

It does not come with a din rail to mount the controller. I am assuming that is what you were asking?

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

It does not come with a din rail to mount the controller. I am assuming that is what you were asking?

Yes, thank you!

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

Yes, thank you!

I am going to mount the controller to the leg of my stainless table via a muffler clamp through a DIN rain. The controller can attach right to the DIN rail. This way the controller takes up no table space and I can hide the wires under the table. I mounted my pumps the same way on the opposite end of my table

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

Im surprised that there is not one video review of this controller yet.

 

[craigmw]

Im surprised that there is not one video review of this controller yet.

Brian from Short Circuited Brewers mentioned that he will be doing a review soon on the BrewCommander in his video where he interviewed John Blichmann at the 2019 NHC.

 

[highland_brewer]

Brian from Short Circuited Brewers mentioned that he will be doing a review soon on the BrewCommander in his video where he interviewed John Blichmann at the 2019 NHC.

I will be doing one shortly. Trying to to get the basement finished up so I can go full steam ahead with several things I need to review.. I think this coupled with the other Blichmann dial style power controller would be all one would need to run a 3 vessel HERMS system.

 

[craigmw]

I will be doing one shortly. Trying to to get the basement finished up so I can go full steam ahead with several things I need to review.. I think this coupled with the other Blichmann dial style power controller would be all one would need to run a 3 vessel HERMS system.

I look forward to it Brian. I always really enjoy your videos!

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the controller?

Btw: I ordered a 240v Brew Commander online from Adventures in Home brewing this last Thursday. I called them to see if my order has shipped yet and they told me that it could take up to week just to ship it out to me. I am waiting very patiently.

 

[craigmw]

I will be doing one shortly. Trying to to get the basement finished up so I can go full steam ahead with several things I need to review.. I think this coupled with the other Blichmann dial style power controller would be all one would need to run a 3 vessel HERMS system.

And best of luck with your basement build. You are living out many of our dreams! I do wish basements were the standard out here in California...

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

Im so psyched on getting the 240v Brew Commander in the mail this Thursday! Im getting a 240v outlet installed in my garage on Friday. Im REALLY excited about brewing all electric. Im excited for the speed and accuracy that electric with PID brings to home brewing, especially the speed part. Ive been using a 120 v 1700 watt element to control my mash temp via HERMS. It takes me almost an hour to get my grain bed up to mash out temp after mashing for 50 so mins.

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

I got the 240v controller in the mail today. I rewired the plugs to come out the bottom and I mounted the controller to my table leg via a DIN rail and a muffler clamp. Now to have an electrician install an outlet for cheaper than what I paid for the controller..

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

I need help! If there is anyone on here with electrical knowledge please help. I had an electrician install a double pole 30 amp 240v breaker in my garage for the controller. Looking at it, he ran 2 hot wires and a ground wire. Is there a need for a neutral since this controller runs both 120v and 240v receptacles?? If so, how do I run a neutral on an l6-30 outlet. Its a three prong outlet but needs 4 wires in this case (2 hot, ground, neutal)?? Im really confused.

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

I need help! If there is anyone on here with electrical knowledge please help. I had an electrician install a double pole 30 amp 240v breaker in my garage for the controller. Looking at it, he ran 2 hot wires and a ground wire. Is there a need for a neutral since this controller runs both 120v and 240v receptacles?? If so, how do I run a neutral on an l6-30 outlet. Its a three prong outlet but needs 4 wires in this case (2 hot, ground, neutal)?? Im really confused.

Sorry. I work too much. Lol after freaking out i calmed down and realized that the 120v receptacles operate from the damn 120v plug on the back of the controller. Lol!!

 

[Fast Sailor]

I received my BrewCommander and already brewed an Octoberfest and a Peach Mango Milkshake using this controller! This is my first controller so my experience is very limited. The one thing I can say is that it was very easy And fun to use on brew day. View media item 70471View media item 70465

 

[johnwpowell]

I received my BrewCommander and already brewed an Octoberfest and a Peach Mango Milkshake using this controller! This is my first controller so my experience is very limited. The one thing I can say is that it was very easy And fun to use on brew day. View media item 70471View media item 70465

Thanks for sharing!

 

[Bill Black]

For someone that does single vessel BIAB, is there any reason to choose this over the Tower of Power (240V) when it's clearanced for $250?

Step Mashing... You can program different steps and times for those steps. Im building a single vessel eBIAB and I plan to be on top of this controller!

 

[micraftbeer]

I know this is kind of a long thread, spanning a couple months. But my hands-on review of the controller just posted to HomeBrewFinds last week. Link below if you're interested. I reviewed the 120V controller and ran it in my 2V system both as a Mash controller (hooked to 2000W RIMS Rocket) and a Boil Controller (hooked up to 2250W foldback heating element in my Spike kettle). Now just to be clear, I didn't run both simultaneously, I evaluated in both configurations and used my existing controller for the other on that brew day. I find it much more beneficial as a mash controller than a boil controller with step mashing, auto-start, etc. But I was very impressed with the functionality in here at this price point.

https://www.homebrewfinds.com/2019/10/hands-on-review-blichmann-brewcommander-controller.html

 

[Cato1507]

Yesterday ordered the 10 gal 240v G2 kettle with whirlpool port added and the 240v BC.
I have a 20amp 240v receptacle that I'll use but isn't GFCI protected, so I found an inline GFCI whip on Amazon that I just need to wire the proper connection to the L6-30 plug from the BC and then the 6-20p to my receptacle and voila GFCI taken care of.
I'll be using it for BIAB.

 

[highland_brewer]

This is one of my next reviews coming up. I may wind up switching to this (X2) for my 3V HERMS system. I am perplexed over the probe situation. I currently have a control panel with a PID on all three vessels. If I converted over to this for control I would not have a "digital" monitor for the mash flow in. I know... I know.. you measure the offset and adjust your HLT accordingly. I am just having a hard time letting go of a digital monitor for the inlet to the mash tun.. Any thoughts or suggestions? I had thought of using the Blichmann power controller for for the boil kettle but then I have no true control over whirlpool temps if I want to hop stand at a certain temp.. And no pump switch. My riptides do have switches but do I want bend down every time to turn on one of the pumps?? Decisions, decisions.

 

[Bill Black]

This is one of my next reviews coming up. I may wind up switching to this (X2) for my 3V HERMS system. I am perplexed over the probe situation. I currently have a control panel with a PID on all three vessels. If I converted over to this for control I would not have a "digital" monitor for the mash flow in. I know... I know.. you measure the offset and adjust your HLT accordingly. I am just having a hard time letting go of a digital monitor for the inlet to the mash tun.. Any thoughts or suggestions? I had thought of using the Blichmann power controller for for the boil kettle but then I have no true control over whirlpool temps if I want to hop stand at a certain temp.. And no pump switch. My riptides do have switches but do I want bend down every time to turn on one of the pumps?? Decisions, decisions.

Look forward to that review!

 

[WesBrew]

can someone with one comment on the length of the cables. wondering how close it has to be to the heating element, the pump, and the outlet.

 

[Cato1507]

This is one of my next reviews coming up. I may wind up switching to this (X2) for my 3V HERMS system. I am perplexed over the probe situation. I currently have a control panel with a PID on all three vessels. If I converted over to this for control I would not have a "digital" monitor for the mash flow in. I know... I know.. you measure the offset and adjust your HLT accordingly. I am just having a hard time letting go of a digital monitor for the inlet to the mash tun.. Any thoughts or suggestions? I had thought of using the Blichmann power controller for for the boil kettle but then I have no true control over whirlpool temps if I want to hop stand at a certain temp.. And no pump switch. My riptides do have switches but do I want bend down every time to turn on one of the pumps?? Decisions, decisions.

Install 1/2 inch tee going into your mesh ton and put the probe in the tee might solve it.

 

[highland_brewer]

Install 1/2 inch tee going into your mesh ton and put the probe in the tee might solve it.

That is one solution. I have also thought of just putting a mechanical brewmometer in the Tee as well. In looking at the Blichmann setup on their website they have to commanders and no measurement of temp on the HLT. I do kind of like the three way valave setup so that you can mash, sparge, and transfer to boil without disconnecting any hoses. (or at least it looks that way)

 

[Bobby_M]

This is one of my next reviews coming up. I may wind up switching to this (X2) for my 3V HERMS system. I am perplexed over the probe situation. I currently have a control panel with a PID on all three vessels. If I converted over to this for control I would not have a "digital" monitor for the mash flow in. I know... I know.. you measure the offset and adjust your HLT accordingly. I am just having a hard time letting go of a digital monitor for the inlet to the mash tun.. Any thoughts or suggestions? I had thought of using the Blichmann power controller for for the boil kettle but then I have no true control over whirlpool temps if I want to hop stand at a certain temp.. And no pump switch. My riptides do have switches but do I want bend down every time to turn on one of the pumps?? Decisions, decisions.

Assuming they really wanted you to use a pair for 3 vessel systems, the big oversight is the ability to interlock and not run both elements at the same time. To be honest, unless you have a pair of 30 amp circuits or a 50 amp circuit broken out into dual 30 amp outlets, you might as well just integrate a switch over step. Get an extra probe and just juggle the connectors.

The other option is to put a relay module onto the side, run the hots to both SSRs and then use a selector switch that just interrupts the "fire" signal to one of the SSRs at a time. If you get fancy about it, that selector switch can be double pole so that you can switch the probe signal as well as the SSR fire signal.

 

[highland_brewer]

can someone with one comment on the length of the cables. wondering how close it has to be to the heating element, the pump, and the outlet.

The pigtails off of the Brew commander are pretty short. It comes with a 10 foot long extension cable, and I think the probe cable is near equal length. If you are using boil coils, they come with a 10 foot power cable as well. The Riptide pumps had adequate length of cable as well 6 or 7 feet if I remember. I will share measurements in my review.