Brew Stand Burner choices

[sarsnik]

I'm putting together a list of parts for propane plumbing for a brew stand. I'm a little confused about the whole high/low pressure thing.

For the HLT, I'm pretty torn. I could use a BG14 (banjo) burner, but they are expensive and I don't heat sparge and mash water at the same time yet. So I was thinking the BG12. However, the BG12 is adveritised as a low pressure burner - is there any way to convert this to high pressure? If there isn't, I am currently using a BG10 which is high pressure - it works ok - and I could use it instead.

I'm going to direct fire the MLT, so I was thinking of using the BG12, since I obviously don't need massive heat output. It also isn't as concentrated as the BG10 which should be more gentle. Again, can I convert these to high pressure?

For the BK, I was going to use another banjo burner. I'm not really considering anything else for this.

My final question - If I'm running a banjo burner, they run at 30 PSI. Does this mean I'll need to get separate regulators for the BG10 or BG12?

Thanks for your time

 

[dfess1]

i run three banjo's on my system. If you're going to direct fire the MLT, why not a banjo? How large are the batches you are looking to do?

My brew day starts with me filling my MLT and HLT with the water I'm going to need, and then lighting them both. One the MLT gets up to temp, I dough in, while watching the HLT tank temp. Once it's to temp, I cut the heat. It doesn't drop much during the mash, and at the end of the mash, my sparge water is ready to go.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

the BG10's are plenty, will save you a bundle now and every time you use them. You can run them up to about 7 psi
Most customers want Banjo (BG14) burners but they're overkill. Unless you're running 20 kettles you'll be fine.
As for running 2 different burner sizes you don't need 2 regulators if you use needle valves for your burners. Like this:

 

[sarsnik]

the BG10's are plenty, will save you a bundle now and every time you use them. You can run them up to about 7 psi
Most customers want Banjo (BG14) burners but they're overkill. Unless you're running 20 kettles you'll be fine.
/P1040545.jpg[/IMG]

I noticed that your stands use burners that look very similar to the 6" BG12
s. Are you suggesting I don't / can't use them with the banjo and I should use the BG10's instead?

I really like the "soft" plumbing that you do for your stands and was planning on emulating it, even before you responded here.


I would prefer the BG12's over the BG10's only because I have a hunch they will be more gentle for a direct fire RIMS. However if I can't rig them up to deliver at high pressure, then I'm not adverse to using the BG10's for the HLT and MLT.


Forgot to mention that this is for 10g and maybe 15g in the future. I also might want to automate eventually, and I've heard low pressure is easier to do.

 

[sarsnik]

I've been reading posts all night and I think I have a decision - any input would be appreciated:

I going to use 6" BG12 for the HLT and MLT. For the BK I'll use the BG14. I'm going to plumb a 0-30psi adjustable reg to a manifold. Then if I want to automate I'll just dial in at a low pressure and drill out the high pressure orifice's.

The BG14 will be directly connected to the manifold and operate at high pressure. (I might use my BG10 at high pressure until I get the money for a banjo)

The MLT will operate a BG12 at low pressure, so I'll need to add a low pressure regulator between the manifold and the 6" burner.

Finally, the HLT will be a BG12 at high pressure. It will be directly plumbed to the manifold.​

Any obvious issues with what I want to achieve?

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

To automate temperature, you will need a controller of some type, a temperature sensor, a furnace gas valve and a low pressure regulator (11" W.C.).
Use needle valves for burners that are on high pressure.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

I noticed that your stands use burners that look very similar to the 6" BG12
s. Are you suggesting I don't / can't use them with the banjo and I should use the BG10's instead?

I really like the "soft" plumbing that you do for your stands and was planning on emulating it, even before you responded here.


I would prefer the BG12's over the BG10's only because I have a hunch they will be more gentle for a direct fire RIMS. However if I can't rig them up to deliver at high pressure, then I'm not adverse to using the BG10's for the HLT and MLT.


Forgot to mention that this is for 10g and maybe 15g in the future. I also might want to automate eventually, and I've heard low pressure is easier to do.

In the photos above are using BG14 Banjo burners.
I quoted the wrong size burner, I meant BG12 (we don't use the BG10). You are correct, low pressure is the way to go.

 

[sarsnik]

If I were to opt for 3 BG12's instead, would I just use a single 0-10psi regulator to a manifold? There are tons of conflicting descriptions for these things...if I want to operate them at anything above 1/2 psi (like the adjustable one mentioned above) I would need to replace the orifices, correct?

Finally, is there a difference between:

http://www.agrisupply.com/burner-cast-low-pressure-multi-hole-btu-dia/p/40282/

and

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JXYT6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


Sorry for all the questions, I just don't want to mess this up the first time...

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

the BG12 works just fine at about 5 psi

 

[day_trippr]

[...]Finally, is there a difference between:
http://www.agrisupply.com/burner-cast-low-pressure-multi-hole-btu-dia/p/40282/
and
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JXYT6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
[...]

Same burner...

Cheers!

 

[blkandrust]

Do these burners come in high pressure as well?

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

Anything above 11" W.C. is considered High Pressure
Here is the burner with a suggestion of a 10 PSI regulator.

 

[30Bones]

Building my first stand, already have keggles and decided on the BG12 for cost, size and efficiency. I will mainly be doing 5 and sometimes 10 gallon batches. Looks like most are using 2-3" from the keggle bottom for mounting. I don't want to hassle with adjustable mounting so I was going to go with 2" on the HLT and BK and 3" on the MT to try to avoid scorching the mash unless the people in the know say keep them all at X"

I already have a 10psi regulator. I will need new lines (easy), but will I need needle valves? I am typing out loud here, but assume I will since I will direct fire my MT if needed and may also be heating my sparge water at a higher rate to get it to temp.

 

[dfess1]

So I'll throw this out there. I've got the three banjo's (BG-14) burners. I have 15 gal kettles, and now that they are all on the single tier rig, I do mainly 10 gal batches. I also double/triple up my brew days. Being able to save time bringing things up to temp quickly is an added bonus. Plus, as i did this past weekend, I can repurpose my HLT into a BK when doing a parti-gyle brew as the initial brew is bubbling away in the BK. I'm not trying to say "do this or do that", but trying to offer different insight into other choices. The rig also doubles as a three burner stove as well, but that's something else entirely.

 

[30Bones]

Building my first stand, already have keggles and decided on the BG12 for cost, size and efficiency. I will mainly be doing 5 and sometimes 10 gallon batches. Looks like most are using 2-3" from the keggle bottom for mounting. I don't want to hassle with adjustable mounting so I was going to go with 2" on the HLT and BK and 3" on the MT to try to avoid scorching the mash unless the people in the know say keep them all at X"

I already have a 10psi regulator. I will need new lines (easy), but will I need needle valves? I am typing out loud here, but assume I will since I will direct fire my MT if needed and may also be heating my sparge water at a higher rate to get it to temp.

Thinking last night. Anyone ever use the BG12's on the HLT and MLT and a BG14 on the BK with a 30psi regulator and needle valves? Or am I just overthinking things?