Brew Magic Clone - how much should I expect?

Yakima 728
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Depends on the choice of material. Basically mild steel vs. stainless. Stainless is a lot more expense, like 3-5 times more expensive maybe? Call a few welding place and ask what the shop rate is. Probably in the 60 an hour range? Some thing like that is going to take 3 hours, maybe a few more? If you were in Eugene I know a lot of people who would hang out and weld it up for you for the cost of beer and consumables...
 
mild steel. Eugene isn't that far - as a matter of fact I had considered synergy metalworks, but I think I can get it done cheaper.
 
I bet I could get it done for about $300 in Boise. $100 in material (steel & casters), $200 for the labor. Labor on my stand with gas beam & control panel mount assembly was $240.

EDIT: I ball-parked that based on the stand only. No gas plumbing.
 
diatonic said:
I bet I could get it done for about $300 in Boise. $100 in material (steel & casters), $200 for the labor. Labor on my stand with gas beam & control panel mount assembly was $240.

EDIT: I ball-parked that based on the stand only. No gas plumbing.
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Jesus H Christ on a bike.

Just for kicks, I popped into two local welding shops, looking to get a Brutus clone done. No gas beam, I just wanted the frame welded up.

$800 for mild steel, 30% more for stainless.
 
I built mine when stainless was $ 10.00 a foot and I have 60ft in this thing.
I know some of you guy's are tired of looking my stuff ! Pat
img144121.jpg
 
The "magic" of the Brew Magic system is the electronics. The stand is not spectacular. It is much too high, as it requires a stool to get into the mash tun. If you're building a stand, I think it would be better to invest the money into another pump, and make it a single tier.
 
lustreking said:
The "magic" of the Brew Magic system is the electronics. The stand is not spectacular. It is much too high, as it requires a stool to get into the mash tun. If you're building a stand, I think it would be better to invest the money into another pump, and make it a single tier.
Click to expand...

I built mine low so I wouldn't need a stool, mine is also electronic now.
img1657v.jpg
 
lustreking said:
The "magic" of the Brew Magic system is the electronics. The stand is not spectacular. It is much too high, as it requires a stool to get into the mash tun. If you're building a stand, I think it would be better to invest the money into another pump, and make it a single tier.
Click to expand...

I agree 100%. Those things are sooooo expensiveand way tooo tall, and I don't like that everything is hard lined! Makes servicing/cleaning your keggles a much bigger job than it needs to be. Silicone hose and QD's are the way to go!!!
 
tomroeder said:
I agree 100%. Those things are sooooo expensiveand way tooo tall, and I don't like that everything is hard lined! Makes servicing/cleaning your keggles a much bigger job than it needs to be. Silicone hose and QD's are the way to go!!!
Click to expand...

It takes about 2 seconds to break a tri-clamp connection, there are three tri-clamp connections connecting the kegs to plumbing on a Brew-Magic. I'm not sure where the hard part comes in. It certainly takes more time to swap hoses during the brew day.
 
remilard said:
It takes about 2 seconds to break a tri-clamp connection, there are three tri-clamp connections connecting the kegs to plumbing on a Brew-Magic. I'm not sure where the hard part comes in. It certainly takes more time to swap hoses during the brew day.
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Never saw anything about it being hard....maybe I should re-read what I wrote....

Brewmagic is a work of art, but the cost involved makes you examine every aspect of it and weigh all the benefits/cost. Too pricey for me....

Especially when it can be so much fun to make your own version!
 
Should be able to do it for less than $500. However in my recent experience it is important to see some examples of the kind of work the welder does. Although a lot of them say they can do the job, many are totally useless and you could wind up with a cheap version of something that is not fun nor safe to use. For SS work on keggles if you need them be very afraid when they say they can do it, you really need to cross examine them on method of welding and watch the look they get when you talk about some of the techniques you have read about on HBT.
 
lehr said:
I built mine when stainless was $ 10.00 a foot and I have 60ft in this thing.
I know some of you guy's are tired of looking my stuff ! Pat
img144121.jpg
Click to expand...

When I priced 1.5" .065 square stainless a few months back, it was $75 for a 20' length. Prices have come down, but yours is still worth every penny you spent. :)
 
That may be the best looking brew stand I have ever seen....


Yet another brew stand that makes mine look like something from a bad science fiction movie!!
 
tomroeder said:
Never saw anything about it being hard....maybe I should re-read what I wrote....

Brewmagic is a work of art, but the cost involved makes you examine every aspect of it and weigh all the benefits/cost. Too pricey for me....

Especially when it can be so much fun to make your own version!
Click to expand...

Well, I guess I don't see how it's a big job. Obviously you have to break connections with a hose system too. QDs might be a little faster than tri-clamps, cam locks are probably slower, they are all going to be in the low single digits in terms of seconds required. It just seems to be that hoses are necessarily going to involve more work because you have to take them off to separate the kettles from the system (just like with hard plumbing) but then you also have to swap them during the brew day (don't have to do this with hard plumbing).
 
When I priced my SS square tubing, it was $200 for 20'

I used 60' in the stand

FWIW, tri clamps take 2 hands to handle, QDs are one handed make and break. I prefer QDs after using both on different systems. Triclamps are blingy, but more of a PITA
 
remilard said:
Well, I guess I don't see how it's a big job. Obviously you have to break connections with a hose system too. QDs might be a little faster than tri-clamps, cam locks are probably slower, they are all going to be in the low single digits in terms of seconds required. It just seems to be that hoses are necessarily going to involve more work because you have to take them off to separate the kettles from the system (just like with hard plumbing) but then you also have to swap them during the brew day (don't have to do this with hard plumbing).
Click to expand...

Well, bottom line, simplicity is preferable in my opinion. I like at the end of the brew day to take my hoses off and throw them in an oxiclean solution. Plus, once again, cost....Plus, with a magnetically coupled pump, ie the march 809, if you are having a problem priming your pump, it is nice to see exactly where the liquid is in the plumbing. In silicone, this is easy, with SS tubing, it is not.
 
tomroeder said:
Well, bottom line, simplicity is preferable in my opinion. I like at the end of the brew day to take my hoses off and throw them in an oxiclean solution. Plus, once again, cost....Plus, with a magnetically coupled pump, ie the march 809, if you are having a problem priming your pump, it is nice to see exactly where the liquid is in the plumbing. In silicone, this is easy, with SS tubing, it is not.
Click to expand...

You are right on with that post.
 
For a stand somewhat similar to the Sabco (not really close but whatever, see below) I was quoted $800 by a local shop that I trust. No thank you. I will be renting a welder for $80 and welding it myself or finding a friend to do it.

Hard plumbed systems and QD based systems each have advantages and draw backs. I like brewing on both and don't really have a preference. With a really well designed system I think hard plumbed is easier during brewday because you don't change anything around. No reason to get upset about it.

I agree with the idea that the Sabco design is not ideal. I would at minimum lower it like Lehr did, and if it were me I would go single tier. I found I just prefer brewing that way (I have used standard three tiers, two-tiers, pyramids, single tiers, two tier brutus 20's, and single tier brutus 20's).

Stand_II.png
 
So let me jump back in and clarify - I would like something similar but not identical. I agree with the height issues, esp not being a tall person. I also batch sparge, so 1 pump is fine. I will likely hard plumb gas but stay with silicone and QD's for liquid as I already own that stuff.

I could go single tier - thsi is what I curently have, btu I like the gravity option from HLT to MLT.

Controls - will go with RIMS for MLT recirculation, and propane fired, manually controlled HLT. I can't justify automation of the HLT at this point, at least as far as cost / benefit goes.
 
I kind of like running off my wort with gravity I tune it down to about a pint a minute I think it helps with my efficiency.
But what the hell do I know !
Thanks Yoop and all.
Pat
 
Gravity drain from the MLT is a nice feature. I don't think anyone will argue that (I am sure someone would :D). The only trade off is height. For most of the systems I prefer I have two pumps anyway, so single tier falls into my lap. Everything has plus and minus, it is just the nature of the design game.

The single tier solution for those who are not comfortable pumping directly from the MLT is a grant. This is a vessel that collects runnings via gravity, then those runnings are pumped into the BK.
 
ubermick said:
Jesus H Christ on a bike.

Just for kicks, I popped into two local welding shops, looking to get a Brutus clone done. No gas beam, I just wanted the frame welded up.

$800 for mild steel, 30% more for stainless.
Click to expand...

The guy who did my welding works out of his house. He has a shop in the back and bills based on $30/hour. I think local shops are about $60/hour. He does good work too.

Also, everything is more expensive in California. ;-)
 
My stand had about 10 hours of tacking and welding in it... I dont know what that would cost, but I paid $100
 
One last point about the Brew-Magic stand. I think it is so tall because they design it to gravity drain from the BK in to a fermenter, which raises your height of the bottom tier. Then the top tier has to be high to drain to the BK. I really like the height of the single-tier rig I just built. Very easy to see in to the kettles, stir the mash, whatever.

Here's a picture a friend took of me from my first brew-day on it, at my LHBS. I'm 6' 2".

b512c28c4d4e2fdf7ed9d22427e7dd22.jpg


Drains easily to carboy at this height:

791e6c51e304542d0486361a6146f005.jpg
 
that is a lot of stuff you have on your kettles....not to sound like a moron, which comes very naturally for me :cross: what are all of those different penetrations for?
 
brew magic is definitely higher than it needs to be as probably almost every user is pumping out of the boil kettle. I've thought about having mine cut down but:

1. I am short enough I would have a hard time looking in anyway.
2. It isn't that bad to get up on a stool a couple of times, it hasn't seemed like a hardship at all (and I thought it would).
 
tomroeder said:
that is a lot of stuff you have on your kettles....not to sound like a moron, which comes very naturally for me :cross: what are all of those different penetrations for?
Click to expand...

I'll try not to get too OT here, but I have HX coils in my HLT and BK. Whirlpool ports in my HLT and BK. See my build thread for the full picture of my insanity.
 
remilard said:
It takes about 2 seconds to break a tri-clamp connection, there are three tri-clamp connections connecting the kegs to plumbing on a Brew-Magic. I'm not sure where the hard part comes in. It certainly takes more time to swap hoses during the brew day.
Click to expand...

Yup.

But, I will agree that the "legs" of the system are a bit tall. Then again,

robert-wadlow-8.jpg


those guys built it so, it's a matter of perspective.
 
tomroeder said:
Well, bottom line, simplicity is preferable in my opinion. I like at the end of the brew day to take my hoses off and throw them in an oxiclean solution. Plus, once again, cost....Plus, with a magnetically coupled pump, ie the march 809, if you are having a problem priming your pump, it is nice to see exactly where the liquid is in the plumbing. In silicone, this is easy, with SS tubing, it is not.
Click to expand...

The sabco pump is connected via short lengths of tubing and I have never had a problem priming mine. Good designs require less fussing. There are things that aren't ideal about the Brew-Magic, but I think you are focusing on the wrong things.

I'm not sure why I would want to have a bunch of hoses that I needed to clean at the end of the day, but if it floats your boat it floats your boat. I like to twiddle my thumbs while I CIP.
 
The March 809 is sort of the default min. performance pump. If you can get your hands on an LG pump, you will be miles ahead in flow and priming ease.

The awesome thing about brewing and building is that there is no "right" way to build things.

Some guys here like fat chicks, some like skinny chicks, some like dudes... to each their own. Some are so ugly they have dates with themselves... you do what you gotta do :D
 
GilaMinumBeer said:
Yup.

But, I will agree that the "legs" of the system are a bit tall. Then again,
Click to expand...

Yeah, this would be on my "top five things I don't like about the Brew-Magic", I wish they would offer shorter legs as an option.

Like I said though, it is not nearly as big a hassle as I thought it would be.
 

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