Brew Boss Systems

[mcgimpkins]

@Beavdowg, no it doesn't, it is low enough the COFI doesn't bang into it, and the feet fit well around it. When I'm pumping into the carboy, I usually have my hands full running my wort though a strainer, to aerate and filter out any large stuff. Tipping the pot is just one more thing to juggle, so I find it pretty useful.

A little while back, another poster quoted Darin as saying that a pickup will collect a bunch of debris during the mash and clog the COFI. As an experiment to see if I would get better efficiency, one brew session I crushed at 0.5 mm (0.020") and made sure to check the center COFI pipe at the end, it was not clogged, and had hardly anything in it. Oh and I didn't notice any drastic improvement in efficiency.

 

[Feem74]

@mcgimpkins, my first attempt was actually the worst (I had the order wrong). I wasn't careful with sanitation or process in general since I knew the day was going to be about learning the system. I should have tried a little harder. It was contaminated and had to pitch it. The 2nd time was just so watered down it wasn't drinkable. I missed my targets so bad again I did some research and came across some info that helped dial in Beersmith here. I took some detailed measurements and made some changes to the equipment profile that got me much closer to my numbers on the 3rd attempt. All 3 brews were Biermuncher's Centennial Blonde.

After the 3rd attempt I made made more adjustments that really helped me hit my numbers last night on an Amber Ale. All but 1 brew session so far I have had my HBS mill the grains 2x's, and I squeeze the bag pretty good. I could do better and need to figure out how to make the adjustments in Beersmith for it. I know where, just not the setting to use.

I hadn't thought about tipping or pickup tube. I had read your post before about it, but forgot. After seeing it again along with @FreedyMar3's pic I will look into that or at least tip next time. I did run my pump wide open on my 3rd run with very little problems, but couldn't last night. The grain bill was bigger 14.75lbs vs 10.5lbs and just couldn't keep the bag and grain from sucking to the bottom.

 

[FreddyMar3]

To your point about running the pump full bore... that was causing me some issues with my first few brews as well. I use a basket and the grains were getting compacted way too tight on the bottom to the point that it cavitated under the basket and the element had some scorching on it. fortunately it didn't come through in my beer (oatmeal stout), but i definitely didn't want to risk it again.

Second batch (Kolsch) I threw in 1/4lb of rice hulls and dialed back the pump and had no issues.

Third Batch (the IPA mentioned above) had about 2.25lb wheat in it and 1/4 rice hulls. It was still too thick for even half speed on the pump. Started cavitating under the basket again so had to dial it back to maybe 15% flow. That did the trick. Doesn't hurt to whisk it up a few times during the mash, as well.

The way I see it, there is no real benefit to running the pump on anything more than just enough to maintain temp.

 

[HopheadNJ]

Anyone using an immersion chiller with BrewBoss system/element?

 

[MerlinWerks]

I do, until recently to keep the chiller off the element I would simply leave the false bottom in for the boil and set the chiller on that. Now I am experimenting with not using a hop spider and letting the pellets go commando in the boil. To facilitate a better whirlpool to concentrate the now loose hop trub to the center I got rid of the false bottom and attached a hook and a little spacing device to the chiller and hang it from the lip of the kettle. Used it for the time last weekend and it worked out well.

 

[stlblues5010]

I do, until recently to keep the chiller off the element I would simply leave the false bottom in for the boil and set the chiller on that. Now I am experimenting with not using a hop spider and letting the pellets go commando in the boil. To facilitate a better whirlpool to concentrate the now loose hop trub to the center I got rid of the false bottom and attached a hook and a little spacing device to the chiller and hang it from the lip of the kettle. Used it for the time last weekend and it worked out well.

Does it really matter if the IC touches the element?

I was thinking of trying to solder some copper pipe legs to my IC. When I do it if it works I'll post some picks

 

[Snicklefritz]

@Beavdowg, no it doesn't, it is low enough the COFI doesn't bang into it, and the feet fit well around it. When I'm pumping into the carboy, I usually have my hands full running my wort though a strainer, to aerate and filter out any large stuff. Tipping the pot is just one more thing to juggle, so I find it pretty useful.

A little while back, another poster quoted Darin as saying that a pickup will collect a bunch of debris during the mash and clog the COFI. As an experiment to see if I would get better efficiency, one brew session I crushed at 0.5 mm (0.020") and made sure to check the center COFI pipe at the end, it was not clogged, and had hardly anything in it. Oh and I didn't notice any drastic improvement in efficiency.

I have the exact same pickup tube in my 20G kettle and it works great. I practically have the thing touching the bottom of the kettle and it hasn't clogged yet. Reduces my trub loss to like .25G instead of 1G and I dont have to tip anything. (mine is cut cleaner than @mcgimpkins though )

 

[Brewphish]

I purchased a plate chiller and have used it on both batches I've brewed so far on the BB. While I can't argue with the cooling efficiency, I'm not entirely sure I want to keep using it. I keep making a mess when switching hose hookups (using all camlock qd's) both for wort and cooling water, and yes, they are a PITA to clean. So I've been considering switching back to my DIY IC, but I'm concerned about keeping it off the element as well. I've thought about hooking it to the side of the kettle somehow but making some standoffs seems like a good idea too. I'm interested to hear what others are doing here.

Also, for those using the COFI, do you get a lot of grain particulate that makes it into the boil? I'm using a fairly coarse crush (.050) and still get a lot of little pieces that I'm sure weren't getting into the boil when I was vorlaufing and batch sparging in my converted cooler with a braided hose setup. I've been running the pump full bore and am wondering if that has anything to do with it. I'm considering backing it off the next brew to about 1/4 to 1/2 open to see if that helps. I've been "squeezing" the grains in the COFI as Darin demonstrates after it's been removed from the kettle, suppose that could be a contributing factor as well.

 

[Snicklefritz]

Does it really matter if the IC touches the element?

I was thinking of trying to solder some copper pipe legs to my IC. When I do it if it works I'll post some picks

Like this?

 

[puremalice]

1.6 gal of trub/chiller loss seems excessive, though I can't comment exactly to the BB since my system was DIY and i just use the controller. I am getting about .5 gal of loss per batch.

View attachment 339236

Freddy nice cone in your kettle. I am going to have to try another brew without my hopspider and see if I can't get a swirl like that. What are you using to swirl with?

After putting in my pickup tube and I tried it without the hopspider I had a hop slurry into the primary. However I don't like my flow rate through the spider and feel I am losing some aroma with it.

Thanks,

 

[puremalice]

Also, for those using the COFI, do you get a lot of grain particulate that makes it into the boil? I'm using a fairly coarse crush (.050) and still get a lot of little pieces that I'm sure weren't getting into the boil when I was vorlaufing and batch sparging in my converted cooler with a braided hose setup. I've been running the pump full bore and am wondering if that has anything to do with it. I'm considering backing it off the next brew to about 1/4 to 1/2 open to see if that helps. I've been "squeezing" the grains in the COFI as Darin demonstrates after it's been removed from the kettle, suppose that could be a contributing factor as well.

I don't seem to notice much particulates making into my boil. I also use a very course crush on my grains and I run the pump full bore on my last few brews with no issue whatsoever.

Rex

 

[Snicklefritz]

Also, for those using the COFI, do you get a lot of grain particulate that makes it into the boil? I'm using a fairly coarse crush (.050) and still get a lot of little pieces that I'm sure weren't getting into the boil when I was vorlaufing and batch sparging in my converted cooler with a braided hose setup. I've been running the pump full bore and am wondering if that has anything to do with it. I'm considering backing it off the next brew to about 1/4 to 1/2 open to see if that helps. I've been "squeezing" the grains in the COFI as Darin demonstrates after it's been removed from the kettle, suppose that could be a contributing factor as well.

Yes. But I don't think this is an issue specific to the COFI or Brew-Boss I'm pretty sure this is a thing with all BIAB methods. The wort is simply a lot cloudier than I was used to coming from a traditional 3-vessel system. It really concerned me when I first made the switch but I've since learned to ignore it.

I would definitely back the pump off a bit as that will help filter the particles out a little better if the bottom of the COFI isn't being blasted clean by the recirculated wort. You may also want to experiment with using a finer mesh bag. IIRC the COFI is an 800u mesh size which is a bit large in my opinion. Its also why I didn't use the bags that shipped with the original Brew-Boss either, just too coarse of a weave. The SS basket I had custom made is 500u. You could probably just put a finer mesh BIAB bag inside the COFI to see if it makes much of a difference. However, all that said, I haven't noticed any side effects from the extra particles making it into the boil or the fermentor so it's probably not worth worrying about.

 

[Snicklefritz]

While I'm posting I figured I'd share a few shots of my last brew day

 

[FreddyMar3]

Freddy nice cone in your kettle. I am going to have to try another brew without my hopspider and see if I can't get a swirl like that. What are you using to swirl with?

I actually did use a spider but i use the muslin bags because I feel they get better circulation and I have a perforated copper tube inside the bag that recirculates the wort during the end of the boil. That particular batch of hops is very dusty so probably 70% of the matter got through the bag. Glad to see it wasn't really an issue since the whirlpool knocked the rest out, but I guess I'll know how much is in my fermenter after I rack.

My kettle has a tangential whirlpool inlet. I switch that that inlet about half way though cooling (or sooner if I don't have finishing hops), kill the pump at pitch temp, then let it sit for 5 minutes, max. I've haven't found the need to let the whirlpool sit for long in order to get the sediment to settle. Aint nobody got time for that!

@snicklefritz, love the IC feet, looks like some kind of robot from star wars.
Also, nice build.

 

[mcgimpkins]

mine is cut cleaner than @mcgimpkins though

My steady hand and a Dremel tool on high. You should have seen it before I filed it down. :fro:

 

[MerlinWerks]

Here are a couple pics of my chiller. I intend to drill and tap the hook and attach it with screws to clean things up a bit.

I think it's worthwhile to keep it off the element, once full of water it has a bit more weight to it, no need stress it especially where it's sealed coming out of the TC fitting. I do like the standoff solution posted a few posts back though. I think I might have some #6 copper on my truck

 

[TexasWine]

I think it's worthwhile to keep it off the element, once full of water it has a bit more weight to it[/IMG]

Actually, the wort is more dense than water, so there is a bouyancy effect. This makes the chiller apply less pressure on the element than if the kettle were full of water or air.

So really the pressure applied to the element is a little less than the weight of the chiller plus whatever pressure the connected water hoses apply. In other words, not much.

FWIW, I've done lots of batches with an IC on my weldless fitted electric elements. No leaks.

 

[MerlinWerks]

I see your point, but for the minimal effort involved it makes sense to me to keep it off the element. Perhaps it's just the "warm & fuzzy" effect at play

 

[Schumed]

Actually, the wort is more dense than water, so there is a bouyancy effect. This makes the chiller apply less pressure on the element than if the kettle were full of water or air.

So really the pressure applied to the element is a little less than the weight of the chiller plus whatever pressure the connected water hoses apply. In other words, not much.

FWIW, I've done lots of batches with an IC on my weldless fitted electric elements. No leaks.

I do the same...I'm almost 50 batches in with the brew boss with my immersion chiller on the element

 

[meis1212]

I picked up a 20 gallon deluxe system with COFI and all, but haven't had a chance to use it yet. One thing that concerned me conceptually, coming from a 30 gallon 3v system, was the lack of a dip tube. I've seen what @mcgimpkins used and think it's a good concept. Just curious if anyone has tried this dip tube from Nor Cal Brewing Solutions? http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-Dip-Tube-1.5-Inch-x-1.5-Inch-x-.5-Inch.html

 

[pnerboso]

I do the same...I'm almost 50 batches in with the brew boss with my immersion chiller on the element

8 batches with immersion chiller resting on the element. No problem.

 

[mcgimpkins]

I picked up a 20 gallon deluxe system with COFI and all, but haven't had a chance to use it yet. One thing that concerned me conceptually, coming from a 30 gallon 3v system, was the lack of a dip tube. I've seen what @mcgimpkins used and think it's a good concept. Just curious if anyone has tried this dip tube from Nor Cal Brewing Solutions? http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-Dip-Tube-1.5-Inch-x-1.5-Inch-x-.5-Inch.html

Hey meis, I am assuming since nobody has replied that they have not bought that dip tube. It is really nice that they let you size it to whatever you want. If you buy it post up the dimensions that you get and how they fit. If you have to cut off some of it post that as well, then others can buy it in the exact dimensions to fix their Brew Boss.

 

[ebrooker007]

I'm new to all grain, beersmith and the brew boss so there is a learning curve. I would like to brew before long. Tonight I worked on taking a loose cannon clone recipe I found on here and putting it into beersmith. I have attached a copy of the recipe. Anyone that is familiar with beersmith/brewboss could you please look at the recipe and see if it looks about right. Especially the starting water. Next it will be putting the recipe into the brew boss software . Thanks to all.



Loose Cannon Clone

American IPA (14 B)



Type: All Grain
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 8.00 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
End of Boil Vol: 7.00 gal
Final Bottling Vol: 4.00 gal
Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage


Date: 25 Feb 2016
Brewer: Eric Brooker
Asst Brewer:
Equipment: Brew-Boss 15 Gallon Kettle 5 Gallon Batch
Efficiency: 70.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 84.0 %
Taste Rating: 30.0


Taste Notes:



Ingredients


Amt

Name

Type

#

%/IBU

10 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Ale Malt 2-Row (Briess) (3.5 SRM) Grain 1 80.8 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 2 11.5 %
8.0 oz Carafoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 3 3.8 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 4 3.8 %
0.25 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 7.3 IBUs
0.25 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 7.9 IBUs
0.25 oz Magnum [12.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 7 9.5 IBUs
0.25 oz Magnum [12.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 9.5 IBUs
0.13 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 9 5.1 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 10 5.3 IBUs
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 11 5.7 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 12 2.9 IBUs
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 13 3.1 IBUs
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 14 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Palisade [7.50 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 15 0.0 IBUs


Gravity, Alcohol Content and Color

Est Original Gravity: 1.067 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.020 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 6.1 %
Bitterness: 56.3 IBUs
Est Color: 8.1 SRM

Measured Original Gravity: 1.046 SG
Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Actual Alcohol by Vol: 4.7 %
Calories: 151.6 kcal/12oz


Mash Profile

Mash Name: BIAB, Full Body
Sparge Water: 0.00 gal
Sparge Temperature: 168.1 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE


Total Grain Weight: 13 lbs
Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Tun Temperature: 72.0 F
Mash PH: 5.20

Mash Steps


Name

Description

Step Temperature

Step Time

Saccharification Add 35.81 qt of water at 162.9 F 156.0 F 60 min
Mash Out Heat to 168.0 F over 7 min 168.0 F 10 min

Sparge: If steeping, remove grains, and prepare to boil wort
Mash Notes: Brew in a bag method where the full boil volume is mashed within the boil vessel and then the grains are withdrawn at the end of the mash. No active sparging is required. This is a full body beer profile.



Carbonation and Storage

Carbonation Type: Keg
Pressure/Weight: 12.54 PSI
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 45.0 F
Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage


Volumes of CO2: 2.3
Carbonation Used: Keg with 12.54 PSI
Age for: 30.00 days
Storage Temperature: 65.0 F

 

[FreddyMar3]

2 things jump out at me right away...

156F seems very high on mash temp for an IPA. I think I remember loose cannon being on the maltier side but I personally Wouldn't go above 153f on an IPA.

Your losses seem off. 8 gal should yield 5 gal of Finished product unless you have crazy trub loss.

Also, I find that with brew boss I prefer to undershoot mash temp and creep up on order to make Sure I don't denature any enzymes. The element ramps so quickly I only ever set strike temp at 2F above mash temp.

 

[ebrooker007]

Yeah. I will go with 153. I think that is what the original recipe called for. I will check the input for trub loss. What is the best way to come up with your initial water in kettle. Could you give me a quick walk through with this recipe? Thanks a lot for your comments.

 

[ampsman]

Beersmith should calculate the total water volume for you. You need to create an equipment profile to specify boil off, deadspace and other equipment losses and then it will take those numbers and give you a number that you should start with based on boil time and grain absorption.

 

[ebrooker007]

Ok. I just downloaded the add-on for the brew boss equipment profile so I thought it would have those inputs. Other than having to do it for my specific boil off rate.

 

[markgalli]

I'm new to all grain, beersmith and the brew boss so there is a learning curve. I would like to brew before long. Tonight I worked on taking a loose cannon clone recipe I found on here and putting it into beersmith...

10 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Ale Malt 2-Row (Briess) (3.5 SRM) Grain 1 80.8 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 2 11.5 %
8.0 oz Carafoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 3 3.8 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 4 3.8 %
0.25 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 7.3 IBUs
0.25 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 7.9 IBUs
0.25 oz Magnum [12.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 7 9.5 IBUs
0.25 oz Magnum [12.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 9.5 IBUs
0.13 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 9 5.1 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 10 5.3 IBUs
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 11 5.7 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 12 2.9 IBUs
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 13 3.1 IBUs
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 14 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Palisade [7.50 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 15 0.0 IBUs

----------/

The main thing that jumps out at me is the hop schedule. I'd like to hear from others, but especially when it comes to bittering hops at 60 minutes, I doubt you'd be able to taste the difference between using a single bittering hop than using two or more. The flavor of the hop is pretty much overwhelmed by the bittering quality at that stage. I assume that the later the hop addition, the more flavor one might discern. If if you're like me, with a palate of limited range, I really can't discern much beyond three distinct late hop additions.

 

[b3b]

I just did a wet test on my system. When pumping my water out I noticed that the temp was increasing after cooling. When the water got below the heating element the heating element got red hot. I was in manual mode and the heater button was off. I had to turn it in then off again to get it to turn off. I hope it didn't ruin the element.

Does everyone's heating element look like new after cleaning? Mine has little rust like specs on it now. I didn't know if this was due to it running dry.

 

[FreddyMar3]

Mine definitely looks used but I also cavitated under the basket on the first brew which caused some charring. I was able to scrub most of it off but what's left doesn't seem to be causing any issues and is flecking off a bit with each brew. No rust though.

That's odd that the controller said the element was off but it was on. Maybe there was a lag or loss of connectivity?

 

[yeastylad]

Question about the Brew Boss app - has anyone else had issues with it crashing frequently? I thought maybe it was just the cheapo tablet my system was supplied with not being up to the job, but Ive played around with the app on 3 different devices now, 2 android and 1 windows android simulator, and all 3 had the same problems. I especially notice it if I edit the recipe Im using, then save the changes. Once back in the main system control screen, if I try to go back to edit the recipe again, the app crashes, and it'll keep doing it if I restart the app and try to go back into the step editor. I have to re-load the recipe to stop this happening, but also during normal operation, it often just crashes for no apparent reason. It's really frustrating, as I don't feel comfortable walking away from my rig. If the app crashes when the temperature is ramping, it will just keep ramping and ramping, which could ruin a mash / batch or boil. Ive spoken to Darin and he said he hasn't had any similar complaints, so I don't know what up with the way Im using the app. Im pretty sure Im not trying to do anything weird or funky.

 

[FreddyMar3]

I had a ton of issues on the iPad and had to abandon that route and go with the Fire. No crashing now during brews. Still have issues with editing steps but being able to generate the files with snickleftitzs software has helped alleviate some of those issues.

 

[Feem74]

Yeastylad, I am having the same problem with the app crashing just as you explained about editing steps, but I have not had it crash during the brew. I have a Nook I loaded Android on since it wouldn't run the Brew Boss app on it's native OS. I figured the crashing had to do with my setup. But it is concerning if others are having the same problem. When it does crash there is an option to send a report to Brew Boss, which I do. I assumed Darin was getting it. Maybe he's not. Do others send the report?

 

[MerlinWerks]

I've had it crash when editing/saving brew steps a number of times, but never during a brew session. Lenovo A10 tablet.

With the crashes I've had it hasn't offered to send any reports, it crashes hard by completely closing. Version 1.25

 

[bowtie]

Do these systems ever go on sale? I'm getting close to pulling the trigger but want to get the best deal I can.

 

[ebrooker007]

They did on Black Friday. I think they offered a sale last summer but I'm not sure.

 

[Snicklefritz]

In regards to the crashing there is a known issue with the newest brewboss app and Android 2.2. Darin is aware of the issue and is working toward a fix. I actually beta tested a fixed version today and had no crashes so I'd guess he is close to releasing it. If you email him I'm sure he'd let you test it or send you the older version which still works.

 

[meis1212]

Do these systems ever go on sale? I'm getting close to pulling the trigger but want to get the best deal I can.

I asked Darin the same question before I pulled the trigger. He only does two sales. Black Friday and a special sale during NHC, but you have to attend in person.

 

[Wright]

In regards to the crashing there is a known issue with the newest brewboss app and Android 2.2. Darin is aware of the issue and is working toward a fix. I actually beta tested a fixed version today and had no crashes so I'd guess he is close to releasing it. If you email him I'm sure he'd let you test it or send you the older version which still works.

I'm having a bunch of issues with it crashing. Last night I brewed and got through everything and went to clean up and circ some hot PPW through the system. For the life of me I could not get the heating element to turn on. I power cycled the tablet, unplugged everything, dropped wifi and reconnected. No matter what I did I could not get the heating element to turn on. The pump would recirc so I know that it was connected. Has anyone had this issue?

 

[yeastylad]

One thing Darin did tell me when I mentioned my frequent crashes was that you need to only have the app and nothing else running, because the app requests ALL of your device's memory (or CPU usage, can't remember which). Now I don't usually run anything else while Im brewing, but I know background apps can start up and be chugging away in the background without you knowing, so I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it.

FYI, when sending a log, I think there are 2 options - one to send via the brew boss client and the other via gmail. He told me before to use the gmail method. I honestly don't know if the other method actually works/does anything.