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can all of this be bought/configured separately? seems like a really cool setup but i'm getting kinda frustrated that all the "pre-configured" systems forces you to buy a bunch of stuff that you may (do) already have.
 
can all of this be bought/configured separately? seems like a really cool setup but i'm getting kinda frustrated that all the "pre-configured" systems forces you to buy a bunch of stuff that you may (do) already have.

Yes, check out the website. You can buy any of the individual parts. If you have a system that works and just want to automate it you can just buy the controller.
 
Does anyone have the 120v system?

Curious to see what kind of time differences there are between the 2 1500w heaters and the 220v 5500w heater.
 
Does anyone have the 120v system?

Curious to see what kind of time differences there are between the 2 1500w heaters and the 220v 5500w heater.

I have the 120v with the dual heaters. I havent used the 240v systems, but there's really no difference that I would think aside from the fact you have 2 120v power cords vs 1 240v to plug it into.

The kettle has 2 ports at the bottom for the heaters except 1, thats about it
 
sorry, should have mentioned i need the 120v system which is NOT available individually - they only have a diy 120v controller. i have contacted him and he says he has it priced as a kit to protect his margin. not sure i get the logic here as he could just remove the stuff i dont need (like the pump) at his cost. its an expensive proposition for me to start with and im not sure i can justify it along with paying for a bunch of equipment in the kit that i already own. gonna check some other systems out, i think this is a deal breaker for me :(
 
responding to my own question :) it seems that the diy 120v controller listed on the site is actually not diy? i assumed from the name that it needed to be wired/programmed/assembled whatnot. i guess it is ready to go and the diy name refers to people that want to build their own system (like me!). very excited as it looks like i can build a customized setup and my b-boss system is on again!!!
 
I have the 120v with the dual heaters. I havent used the 240v systems, but there's really no difference that I would think aside from the fact you have 2 120v power cords vs 1 240v to plug it into.

The kettle has 2 ports at the bottom for the heaters except 1, thats about it

Well, the heater wattage is almost double on the 220v systems and I've seen his video on YouTube for a brew day on that system and the heat times are pretty good.

Around how long does it take you to get to mash temp and from mash out to boil if you don't mind me asking?
 
I have the 120v with the dual heaters. I havent used the 240v systems, but there's really no difference that I would think aside from the fact you have 2 120v power cords vs 1 240v to plug it into.

The kettle has 2 ports at the bottom for the heaters except 1, thats about it

Well, the 220v systems have almost double the wattage and from watching darin's brew video using the system, his heat times were pretty good.

What kind of times are you getting for mash and boil after mashout?
 
I have the 120v with the dual heaters. I havent used the 240v systems, but there's really no difference that I would think aside from the fact you have 2 120v power cords vs 1 240v to plug it into.

The kettle has 2 ports at the bottom for the heaters except 1, thats about it

I would research that -- While I was researching stuff for my RIMS tube, I discovered that a 220v heater when run at 110v provided way less than half the heat. The real problem is time. Watts are watts, and 1 watt = 3.412BTU.
A BTU is the amount of heat required to raise a pound of water 1 degree.

Lets say you were using 7 gallons of water at 70 degrees (to make 5 gallons of beer). You need to raise almost 60 pounds of water almost 142 degrees. Thats 8520 BTU / 3.412 = 2497 watts. It would take a long time with 110v.

I think you would have to find two receptacles on different breakers to have it work. That means two GFI panels. YOU GOTTA USE A GFI OR GET DEAD...
Simplify it - use 220, or brew slowly.
Another detail (which is a game changer), when water boils, it changes phase. A buttload of heat is lost in the change, which almost doubles the required heat. Our example of 2497 watts becomes 5000 watts when raising the heat from 211 degrees to 212 degrees. I heat 11 gallons of water for a 7 gallon batch, and I wouldn't even consider 110v.
 
I would research that -- While I was researching stuff for my RIMS tube, I discovered that a 220v heater when run at 110v provided way less than half the heat. The real problem is time. Watts are watts, and 1 watt = 3.412BTU.
A BTU is the amount of heat required to raise a pound of water 1 degree.

Lets say you were using 7 gallons of water at 70 degrees (to make 5 gallons of beer). You need to raise almost 60 pounds of water almost 142 degrees. Thats 8520 BTU / 3.412 = 2497 watts. It would take a long time with 110v.

I think you would have to find two receptacles on different breakers to have it work. That means two GFI panels. YOU GOTTA USE A GFI OR GET DEAD...
Simplify it - use 220, or brew slowly.
Another detail (which is a game changer), when water boils, it changes phase. A buttload of heat is lost in the change, which almost doubles the required heat. Our example of 2497 watts becomes 5000 watts when raising the heat from 211 degrees to 212 degrees. I heat 11 gallons of water for a 7 gallon batch, and I wouldn't even consider 110v.

I think you're a little off on some of your info. I have a dual 110v BIAB system similar to what @m00ps has in the brew boss.Takes me about 15 minutes to heat to strike, and about the same to boil. 3 to 3.5 hour brew days are the norm. And I make 6 gallon batches. I personally use 2x1500 watt elements, but many opt for 2x2000 watt.

I say this because brewing with 110v is not necessarily slow as you claim above.

Also, note that heating water from 211F to 212F takes as many BTUs as heating from 200F to 201F. Water at it's boiling point is the same temperature as steam at its dew point, which at atmospheric pressure at sea level is 212F.
 
I really want to pull the trigger on the BB but have the same concern with it as I do (did) with other electric brew rig setups, which is that we don't have enough room on our panel (100amp service) to add another 30amp 240v breaker so I was going to be limited to to 110 heating elements or would need to fork out quite a bit of money to have an electrician solve that issue. My electric dreams have been on hold because of that.

For whatever reason it just never dawned on me that I could use the circuit for our electric dryer until recently, duh! :smack:
Going without drying clothes for a few hours on a brewday can get SWMBO's approval, but upgrading our electric service to accommodate spending even more money on brewing equipment would not be well met. ;)

Has anyone else done that and what's your setup look like? I was thinking that I could get an adapter that would have a male plug for the dryer outlet on one end and an L6-30R on the other end, then hook up an in-line GFCI. Or could/should I use a spa panel connected to the dryer outlet? I'm somewhat handy with basic soldering and such, but I usually don't mess with anything past replacing a light switch or standard outlet for fear of death by zapping or fire, so I apologize for my ignorance. Basically, the only reason I've ever opened the panel box is to flip a breaker. :confused:

Also, are there concerns or limitations with running an extension cord from there for a distance of 15 - 30 feet? That would be enough to make it from the laundry room to my garage, my back deck, or another area in the basement that I've dreamed about converting into a brewery ever since I saw The Electric Brewery setup (splooosh!).

Having the flexibility to brew in multiple locations would be awesome.
 
I really want to pull the trigger on the BB but have the same concern with it as I do (did) with other electric brew rig setups,...

Has anyone else done that and what's your setup look like? ...
Having the flexibility to brew in multiple locations would be awesome.

That's exactly what I do.

I bought a stainless steel wire shelving rack on wheels from Amazon. I went to the local big box store and bought a replacement dryer cord and wired it to the BB pigtail. I plug that into the dryer outlet and I'm good to go. I plan on adding a vent hood and vent hosing to run out a window 'cause I like to brew in the A/C.

being on wheels, I can leave things set up and roll them out of the way when necessary. I bought a shower curtain to clip to the rack and you'd not know what was in there otherwise.

I can post a pic, but it's pretty simple.
 
That's exactly what I do.

I bought a stainless steel wire shelving rack on wheels from Amazon. I went to the local big box store and bought a replacement dryer cord and wired it to the BB pigtail. I plug that into the dryer outlet and I'm good to go. I plan on adding a vent hood and vent hosing to run out a window 'cause I like to brew in the A/C.

being on wheels, I can leave things set up and roll them out of the way when necessary. I bought a shower curtain to clip to the rack and you'd not know what was in there otherwise.

I can post a pic, but it's pretty simple.


Nice, thanks for the reply. What are you doing for GFCI protection? And are you using an extension cord in the mix as well? A pic would be a appreciated if it's not a hassle, visual aids are always welcome :)
 
Nice, thanks for the reply. What are you doing for GFCI protection? And are you using an extension cord in the mix as well? A pic would be a appreciated if it's not a hassle, visual aids are always welcome :)

I'm happy to help.

First, I don't use a GFI. I know, it's certain death but I'm a Marine and therefore immortal. Don't do as I do, do as I say, Use a GFI.

there's a pic of the system on the wire rack...

Edit to add re extension cord. I don't use one, but I wouldn't hesitate to if needed. the wheeled cart gives me enough flexibility.

IM000450.jpg
 
and one with it stowed... you can see the door to the right which leads to the laundry room, the one to the left leads to an enclosed porch.

IM000449.jpg
 
First, I don't use a GFI. I know, it's certain death but I'm a Marine and therefore immortal. Don't do as I do, do as I say, Use a GFI.

Always nice to see someone risking their life for beer. You're line made me snort beer on my keyboard. :rockin:
 
Always nice to see someone risking their life for beer. You're line made me snort beer on my keyboard. :rockin:

LOL, I just about did the same thing.
I'm certainly not brave enough to run without GFI. :eek:

Rhumbline, thanks for the pics! :mug:
I already have a couple of those racks and was thinking about a similar setup, just need to add some wheels.

How do you like that chiller? I've got a homemade IC now but would like to upgrade. I noticed that the Exchilerator that comes with the BB systems does not have the thermometer that it comes with if purchased directly from the Brick River site, which is a bummer. It's also a cheaper at BR, but I'm guessing that's because BB includes some hoses and connectors...
 
For whatever reason it just never dawned on me that I could use the circuit for our electric dryer until recently, duh! :smack:
Going without drying clothes for a few hours on a brewday can get SWMBO's approval, but upgrading our electric service to accommodate spending even more money on brewing equipment would not be well met. ;)

Has anyone else done that and what's your setup look like? I was thinking that I could get an adapter that would have a male plug for the dryer outlet on one end and an L6-30R on the other end, then hook up an in-line GFCI. Or could/should I use a spa panel connected to the dryer outlet? I'm somewhat handy with basic soldering and such, but I usually don't mess with anything past replacing a light switch or standard outlet for fear of death by zapping or fire, so I apologize for my ignorance. Basically, the only reason I've ever opened the panel box is to flip a breaker. :confused:

Also, are there concerns or limitations with running an extension cord from there for a distance of 15 - 30 feet? That would be enough to make it from the laundry room to my garage, my back deck, or another area in the basement that I've dreamed about converting into a brewery ever since I saw The Electric Brewery setup (splooosh!).

Having the flexibility to brew in multiple locations would be awesome.
I have a spa panel that I plug into my dryer receptacle. I also have an extension cord that I made so can brew under my deck or in the kitchen, it's ~25' long. No issues with doing that.

One thing I did with mine was made it 4-wire, even though the Brew-Boss is 3-wire. I just put a 4-wire plug on the Brew-Boss (no wire on the neutral). This gives the spa panel and extension cord flexibility should I ever change or need it for something else in the future.

Spa Panel.jpg
 
I have to be honest about the wort chiller. It's something that I haven't quite figured out how to incorporate into my setup. Here in Florida my water out of the faucet is usually in the high 80's. I know the chiller would help, but I'm OK for now with other means of chilling.

I am going to build a glycol cooler to feed the chiller and that's where I really expect it to pay off. That's on my 2016 list of projects.

As for the unit itself, it seems to be high quality but I haven't used it yet.
 
Did another big beer today..a winter warmer...had issue with my pump though from the beginning....kept losing prime...never did figure it out ..got email out to Darin...

Anyways decided to brew with out recirculating ...i have a biab bag ...and just sat that in the cofi filter to keep off the element...stirred every 15 minutes during the mash...interesting still hit my numbers with out recirculation
 
Did another big beer today..a winter warmer...had issue with my pump though from the beginning....kept losing prime...never did figure it out ..got email out to Darin...

Let us know what he says about it. I have had the same issue with a chugger pump, it's not in his system.
I am really interested in the BB system but that is a concern. I would hate to walk away and find out later it hasn't been recirculating. The motor runs and sounds fine but the wort isn't moving.
 
Did another big beer today..a winter warmer...had issue with my pump though from the beginning....kept losing prime...never did figure it out ..got email out to Darin...

Let us know what he says about it. I have had the same issue with a chugger pump, it's not in his system.
I am really interested in the BB system but that is a concern. I would hate to walk away and find out later it hasn't been recirculating. The motor runs and sounds fine but the wort isn't moving.

It appears the propeller inside the head needs some lube..will test out tonight
 
Black Friday Brew Boss sale:

Yeah, but I want to order now!! Figures, just as soon as I decided to order I went to the site and saw the sale. Now it's a test of will to wait another week and a half to place the order. We'll see if the desire to save some $ wins over the desire to brew on this beast.
 
I have a spa panel that I plug into my dryer receptacle. I also have an extension cord that I made so can brew under my deck or in the kitchen, it's ~25' long. No issues with doing that.

One thing I did with mine was made it 4-wire, even though the Brew-Boss is 3-wire. I just put a 4-wire plug on the Brew-Boss (no wire on the neutral). This gives the spa panel and extension cord flexibility should I ever change or need it for something else in the future.

View attachment 315861

Thanks ingchr1. Your spa panel is setup like how I envision mine, except my dryer outlet is only 3 wire so I don't think I can do the 4 wire setup. I'm ok with that, plenty of 120 outlets where I intend to brew.

Although, I did find this 10-30 to L6-30 adapter - http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=17
Which I could pair with this in-line GFCI - http://www.gfcistore.com/30-amp-inline-gfcis.html

Anyone have thoughts on that vs going the spa panel route? I'm guessing the panel would be slightly cheaper overall, but the adapter & in-line seems more portable and frankly I'm a little sketched out by doing the wiring for the panel (just want to be confident in the GFCI). I'd still need to buy/make an extension cord with a L6-30P and L6-30R but that doesn't seem as daunting.
 
Thanking of maybe adding the EXCHILERATOR

anyone use one?

I've been using a 50ft immersion with the whirl boss..which works fine...but goes through more water than I would like

I brought the Exchilerator 25' from from Amazon. It looks like you can get it cheaper from their website: brickriverbrew

It works well, it chills a lot faster than the Stainless Steel Immersion Wort Chiller that I have. However I do still keep the IC around in case I ever have a failure or clog, which I have not. I did bring it over to a friend's house after his plate chiller got clogged up. The Exchilerator preformed great for him.

As a disclaimer I did also keep the box it shipped to me in. I store it on a shelf in my garage and try to keep it covered from light. I have not heard of it happening, but I know that Pex can break down and become brittle if exposed to UV light for a certain amount of time (several months I believe). The inside is made of copper. If the Pex ever did break down, I think I would just remove all the Pex and replace it with a heavy duty rubber hose, like this counter flow wort chiller that also has good reviews: Super Efficient 25' Counterflow Wort Chiller

You can read more about the ExChilerator here: Any reviews/advice on the ExChilerator?
 
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I have to be honest about the wort chiller. It's something that I haven't quite figured out how to incorporate into my setup. Here in Florida my water out of the faucet is usually in the high 80's. I know the chiller would help, but I'm OK for now with other means of chilling.



I am going to build a glycol cooler to feed the chiller and that's where I really expect it to pay off. That's on my 2016 list of projects.



As for the unit itself, it seems to be high quality but I haven't used it yet.


My recommendation is to get another chiller and do a two stage. The first stage chills most of the way with groundwater, then the second stage chills the remaining difference with ice water (in a bucket). Either get an IC and recirc the CFC back into the kettle, or get another CFC and run them in series.

Or if your sanitation is tight just chill most of the way then put it in your fermenter and let it cool further before pitching.

-BD
 
Did another big beer today..a winter warmer...had issue with my pump though from the beginning....kept losing prime...never did figure it out ..got email out to Darin...

Let us know what he says about it. I have had the same issue with a chugger pump, it's not in his system.
I am really interested in the BB system but that is a concern. I would hate to walk away and find out later it hasn't been recirculating. The motor runs and sounds fine but the wort isn't moving.

Lubing the propeller did the trick
 
I love this thread, but it's so painful waiting to save up the $$ to get the system!
 
I have to be honest about the wort chiller. It's something that I haven't quite figured out how to incorporate into my setup. Here in Florida my water out of the faucet is usually in the high 80's. I know the chiller would help, but I'm OK for now with other means of chilling.

I am going to build a glycol cooler to feed the chiller and that's where I really expect it to pay off. That's on my 2016 list of projects.

As for the unit itself, it seems to be high quality but I haven't used it yet.

You could also get a sump pump, fill a cooler, large bucket, or other container with ice water, then pump that though your chiller. I've used that method in the summer time and it seems to work really well for getting things down to temp.
 
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