Boil coil vs tc element

[Jbrew]

I searched this a little on google and only found a little bit of info.
I’m doing a 120v 20amp controller. The controller is completely done and all that’s left is a heating element. I cant really decide.
I like that the boil coil is supposed to be less then ultra low watt density, does not stick out into the middle of the kettle, so my immersion chiller will sit on the bottom, and doesn’t require a very large hole that I’m nervous to cut into my kettle but rather just 2 5/8” holes.
The TC element on the other hand will allow me to remove it after brewday making for easier cleaning and it is a bit cheaper to set up.
Anyone out there that have had one or the other or both and which you like better?
Thanks all for advice.

 

[cwise]

I have the 7.5g version of the boilcoil and I love it. Never had a problem with scorched wort or a burnt bag.I use an immersion chiller, and it does not fit inside the coils hoops, but it has not been a problem for me.

 

[augiedoggy]

if you google it there is another thread just like this from a couple weeks ago here.. and many more older ones. each has its advantage and disadvantage I can say resting an immersion chiller on either is fine.

 

[Jbrew]

Augiedoggy, my apologies. I did google and saw a few threads. Most of the ones I immediately saw pertained to 240v units, which really shouldn’t be any different in comparison of the boil coil vs tc element, but I was looking for a little info particularly on the 120v units. From what I’ve read there’s a bit of conflicting whether a120v unit can bring 8 gallons to a good boil and maintain it. I did read one thread that you responded to in which you mention the 2200 watt element posted from brewhardware was not an ulwd unit and could scorch wort. I originally was dead set on a tc element as then I figured I could upgrade to a 240v element in the future and it would then be cheaper, but I’m thinking I may go with the boil coil now.
I appreciate your guys answers.
Thanks,
Jeff

 

[Bobby_M]

The 2250w TC element sits at about 59 watts per square inch which is right above ULWD but I have never heard of scorching. Hell, I used to boil with a 12" straight foldback element at 5500 watts with no issues.

 

[augiedoggy]

Augiedoggy, my apologies. I did google and saw a few threads. Most of the ones I immediately saw pertained to 240v units, which really shouldn’t be any different in comparison of the boil coil vs tc element, but I was looking for a little info particularly on the 120v units. From what I’ve read there’s a bit of conflicting whether a120v unit can bring 8 gallons to a good boil and maintain it. I did read one thread that you responded to in which you mention the 2200 watt element posted from brewhardware was not an ulwd unit and could scorch wort. I originally was dead set on a tc element as then I figured I could upgrade to a 240v element in the future and it would then be cheaper, but I’m thinking I may go with the boil coil now.
I appreciate your guys answers.
Thanks,
Jeff

Its all good im not saying you didnt look, Im just mentioning there is really a bunch of threads that should pop up when you google it and then add homebrewtalk to the search.
cheers
If my memory is correct, I was wrong when I said that 2200w element wasnt uldw and someone corrected me? im not sure, its hard to keep it all straight sometimes.

 

[augiedoggy]

The 2250w TC element sits at about 59 watts per square inch which is right above ULWD but I have never heard of scorching. Hell, I used to boil with a 12" straight foldback element at 5500 watts with no issues.

Those elements Do work but under certain conditions they are more likely to scorch and there are more reports of scorching with lwd elements than ulwd which are more forgiving to things like protiens settling on the element. This is why Ive read that places like brewboss switched from them to the lower watt density ripples which work better under a false bottom or bag situation.
Also I think the jury is still out on how much effect they different watt or heat density heat sources have on things like color and flavor. Ive read that steam jackets system do result in differences and one brewer told me this is true vs their smaller electric system.

 

[Jbrew]

Thank you guys for the responses. I actually wanted to go with boil coil, so I decided to start measuring for placement in my kettle. However, I bought my kettle second hand and the previous owner had already installed a whirlpool port about an inch or so above the drain valve so there wouldn’t be enough room to install the coil between them. I would have had to install the coil above the whirlpool port and that would’ve been too high.
So I decide to go with the tc element. I went with the 2250watt unit from brewhardware. Thanks for the support guys. Looking forward to my order and getting my system up and running.