Best strategy for doing a closed transfer with a huge dry hop?

[CyberFox]

I've done some research to figure out the best way to do a fully closed transfer from the fermenter to the keg for beer with a loose, 6+ oz dry hop. The best strategy I've found is to use gravity to transfer through the fermenter's spigot into the OUT post on the keg, then connect a line from the keg's IN post to the fermenter's airlock. An inline beer filter would also be used to catch any hops that try to get into the keg. Does anyone have experience doing this or have a better idea?

I need to get a new fermenter that is airtight with a spigot and I'm leaning towards something like a 7 gallon Fermonster, 7.9 gallon Speidel, or 7.5 gallon Anvil Bucket Fermenter. Does anyone have an opinion on which fermenter is best or know of an even better option that I didn't mention? Thanks in advance!

 

[micraftbeer]

I've done what you describe, with a Bouncer inline filter. Worked fairly well. But I had to stop several times during transfer to clean out the filter. And with a really hoppy beer, the less times I have to mess around with the transfer, the better the oxygen situation in the finished beer in the keg. Also, taking apart that filter is messy.

So now I do two things: 1) "cool crash" the beer before transferring, 2) use a floating dip tube in my fermentor.

By "cool crash" I mean I drop the temperature on my fermentor by like 10-20 degrees for about 4 hours. That seems to help precipitate a bunch of debris out.

The floating dip tube draws the beer from the top so I don't get all the stuff that has dropped during fermentation, or my cool crash.

With these two steps, I do high dry hop loads like you mention, commando, and have no problem doing closed transfer without a filter and without any clogs.

As for fermentors, I love my Kegland Fermzilla All Rounders. With the pressure kit you get the ball locks so you can use co2 to push your closed transfers, and it comes with the floating dip tube. And of course now you have ability to ferment under pressure, which can be useful in some situations. Through Williams or More beer, I've gotten fermentor + pressure kit for around $100. I actually prefer them to my stainless pressure capable comical.

 

[CyberFox]

Good info. Needing to clean out the inline filter during the transfer is one thing that I was concerned about. Like you said, the less you have to mess with during the transfer, the lower the risk of oxidation. It's interesting that you brought up the Fermzilla All Rounder because I was definitely considering it as an option. The main thing that was giving me pause is the floating dip tube because I wasn't planning to cold crash, which means that I wouldn't be able to use it with all the hops floating on top. I wanted to avoid cold crashing because, if I open the lid to dry hop after the cold crash, oxygen will supposedly flood in due to a vacuum. If I did open the lid, I imagine that I would also be able to burp the fermenter with CO2 like I would with a keg.

You're definitely making me reconsider the Fermzilla All Rounder. Preferring it to a SS conical is high praise. A few questions:
1) Does dropping 10-20 degrees for 4 hours drop all of the dry hop?
2) Have you had any problems with the All Rounder? Lid not sealing, parts breaking, etc.?

 

[palmtrees]

In my opinion, the best way to do a closed transfer with lots of loose hops is to use a pressure-capable fermenter that you can hook up to CO2 and that you can outfit with a floating dip tube with a screen attachment. This lets you do a couple important things: (1) cool crash to drop yeast out before you dry hop so you can avoid hop creep and hop burn, (2) cold crash after your dry hop to drop out the hop material, (3) flush your fermenter with co2 to get rid of any oxygen introduced through the dry hop and to avoid o2 suck back during a cold crash, and then (4) transfer clear beer to a keg using CO2 to push it, rather than gravity, so you avoid any oxygen exposure during transfer.

My beer drastically improved when I started fermenting with this method. I use a Fermonster with a lid modified to have two keg posts. I attach a floating dip tube with screen to one post, and I use that to transfer. The other post I use for a blowoff tube during fermentation and then hook it up to my CO2 tank when transferring or flushing out oxygen. Check out this thread for tips on modding a fermonster. I went with this over the All Rounder because it was cheaper and fit my fermentation fridge better. But they accomplish the same things!

 

[CyberFox]

Awesome info. I just now realized that, with a pressurized fermenter, I would be able to cold crash under pressure to counter the vacuum. Duh. Seems like pressurized fermenters are the best way to prevent oxygen while cold crashing. You guys are definitely getting me more interested in going with an All Rounder or modified Fermonster. I just recently read some of that same thread about the modified Fermonster and I was thinking about how much it reminded me of the All Rounder. You guys are giving me the exact info I'm looking for!

 

[kevin58]

I simply ignore conventional wisdom about dry hopping, cold crashing, yada yada and put the hops in the keg (in a hop spider), seal it, purge it then do a closed transfer. The hops stay in the keg until it kicks.

 

[Yesfan]

Awesome info. I just now realized that, with a pressurized fermenter, I would be able to cold crash under pressure to counter the vacuum. Duh. Seems like pressurized fermenters are the best way to prevent oxygen while cold crashing. You guys are definitely getting me more interested in going with an All Rounder or modified Fermonster. I just recently read some of that same thread about the modified Fermonster and I was thinking about how much it reminded me of the All Rounder. You guys are giving me the exact info I'm looking for!

The price of an All Rounder isn't much higher than the price of a Fermonster and the parts needed to mod it, unless you already own a Fermonster.

Another solution is just adding a floating dip tube to a spare corny keg. It's the cheapest solution when you think about it as you're just out the price of a floating dip tube. You can pressure ferment in it and no worries about doing a transfer. A true unitank! The only downside is maybe going smaller on your batch size because of head space in the keg.

 

[IslandLizard]

The price of an All Rounder isn't much higher than the price of a Fermonster [...]

Probably true.

Although the All Rounder has a few advantages over the Fermonster, such as a round bottom and a sectional lid, it also has a much larger footprint/diameter, requiring extra space in the ferm chamber, and needs that stand, making it hard to move when full. I guess you could put a some strapping around it. It's also a bit thicker, stiffer plastic isn't it?

A Fermonster is simpler and you could put a spigot near the bottom, above the average trub layer.

 

[Yesfan]

Probably true.

Although the All Rounder has a few advantages over the Fermonster, such as a round bottom and a sectional lid, it also has a much larger footprint/diameter, requiring extra space in the ferm chamber, and needs that stand, making it hard to move when full. I guess you could put a some strapping around it. It's also a bit thicker, stiffer plastic isn't it?

A Fermonster is simpler and you could put a spigot near the bottom, above the average trub layer.

I've had the Fermonster and currently have an All Rounder. I agree the Fermonster is simpler between the two and (if OP already has one), modding one would be cheaper between the two.

That being said, I'd just add a floating dip tube to a spare keg and call it done. The only cons I see is not being able to see your fermentations and smaller batch sizes. The biggest plus would be no transfers to do. For hoppy beers, I'd just chuck the dry hops in a hop bag or stainless sleeve like @kevin58 mentioned. Dump the hop spider/bag in at high krausen, and leave it in until the keg kicks. The only other issue is maybe the spider gets in the way of the floating dip as the keg nears emptying. I may try that with my next batch and see how it goes.

 

[CyberFox]

I simply ignore conventional wisdom about dry hopping, cold crashing, yada yada and put the hops in the keg (in a hop spider), seal it, purge it then do a closed transfer. The hops stay in the keg until it kicks.

I've heard of that technique and it's definitely a viable option.

The price of an All Rounder isn't much higher than the price of a Fermonster and the parts needed to mod it, unless you already own a Fermonster.

Another solution is just adding a floating dip tube to a spare corny keg. It's the cheapest solution when you think about it as you're just out the price of a floating dip tube. You can pressure ferment in it and no worries about doing a transfer. A true unitank! The only downside is maybe going smaller on your batch size because of head space in the keg.

I don't have a spare corny keg, but adding a floating dip tube to one is a good option. At the same time, I would rather get 5 gallons of beer per batch if I could.

Probably true.

Although the All Rounder has a few advantages over the Fermonster, such as a round bottom and a sectional lid, it also has a much larger footprint/diameter, requiring extra space in the ferm chamber, and needs that stand, making it hard to move when full. I guess you could put a some strapping around it. It's also a bit thicker, stiffer plastic isn't it?

A Fermonster is simpler and you could put a spigot near the bottom, above the average trub layer.

I agree that the Fermonster is simpler and the All Rounder's bigger footprint, separate stand, and no option for a spigot do seem like downsides. Like you said, I could put strapping around it, but it seems like a bit of a pain since other fermenters just stand upright by default. Another downside I can think of is making sure the All Rounder is fully upright for accurate volume measurements. I imagine I'd need a level to determine that?

I've had the Fermonster and currently have an All Rounder. I agree the Fermonster is simpler between the two and (if OP already has one), modding one would be cheaper between the two.

That being said, I'd just add a floating dip tube to a spare keg and call it done. The only cons I see is not being able to see your fermentations and smaller batch sizes. The biggest plus would be no transfers to do. For hoppy beers, I'd just chuck the dry hops in a hop bag or stainless sleeve like @kevin58 mentioned. Dump the hop spider/bag in at high krausen, and leave it in until the keg kicks. The only other issue is maybe the spider gets in the way of the floating dip as the keg nears emptying. I may try that with my next batch and see how it goes.

The only fermenter I own right now is a 6 gallon carboy, which I need to replace anyway since I'm going to be upping my batch size to 6 gallons for bigger dry hops (need extra headspace). As far as not being able to see the fermentation, I'm one of those weirdos that likes seeing the fermentation in action. I've heard of some problems with the Fermonster's lid. Have you had any problems with the Fermonster staying airtight or its lid cracking?

I'm torn between using a spigot in a fully closed transfer or using a floating dip tube. One thing I'm not sure about is how to purge the floating dip tube of oxygen. Lots to think about!

 

[palmtrees]

I've heard of that technique and it's definitely a viable option.


I don't have a spare corny keg, but adding a floating dip tube to one is a good option. At the same time, I would rather get 5 gallons of beer per batch if I could.


I agree that the Fermonster is simpler and the All Rounder's bigger footprint, separate stand, and no option for a spigot do seem like downsides. Like you said, I could put strapping around it, but it seems like a bit of a pain since other fermenters just stand upright by default. Another downside I can think of is making sure the All Rounder is fully upright for accurate volume measurements. I imagine I'd need a level to determine that?


The only fermenter I own right now is a 6 gallon carboy, which I need to replace anyway since I'm going to be upping my batch size to 6 gallons for bigger dry hops (need extra headspace). As far as not being able to see the fermentation, I'm one of those weirdos that likes seeing the fermentation in action. I've heard of some problems with the Fermonster's lid. Have you had any problems with the Fermonster staying airtight or its lid cracking?

I'm torn between using a spigot in a fully closed transfer or using a floating dip tube. One thing I'm not sure about is how to purge the floating dip tube of oxygen. Lots to think about!

I've been using my modified Fermonster for about two years now. I've never had a single issue with the lid. I bought an extra one thinking I'd eventually need it, but not yet! Still holds pressure just fine, no cracks.

I wouldn't worry about purging the dip tube. I leave mine in during fermentation, so the yeast takes care of that. I suppose it's theoretically possible there's a little oxygen at the top of the tube that wouldn't get flushed? But I've seen no oxygenation issues in my batches, and if you're that concerned, you can always blow CO2 through the dip tube when you pitch the yeast.

 

[micraftbeer]

The Fermonster conversion can probably get you enough pressure capability to do a closed transfer (couple psi), whereas a Fermzilla can handle 36 psi. Even if you're not interested in tinkering with fermenting under pressure to modify yeast flavors, or try natural carbonation, being able to hit it with 20 psi before cold crashing makes life very simple. And closed transfers at 5-10 psi surely go much faster.

I thought the goofy round bottom and stand would be a PITA until I started using it. It's really only awkward when it's empty. When it's got 5 gallons of beer in it, it's stable. And moving it when full, I've done both ways of hugging it like a baby, and using even just one of the handles to carry it and grabbing the stand with the other.

 

[micraftbeer]

A few questions:
1) Does dropping 10-20 degrees for 4 hours drop all of the dry hop?
2) Have you had any problems with the All Rounder? Lid not sealing, parts breaking, etc.?

1) Going by memory, first time I tried this, it was in my stainless conical and I was getting the beer out via a spigot at the top of the cone. I couldn't see inside, but when I did my transfer, I was shocked that I didn't get any (?) hop debris in my transfer line.

2) I've had 3 things I've had to deal with. First, you definitely need the adjustable strap wrench to get the lid off when it comes time to clean. Second, you need to pry up under the ball locks to get the top off at time of cleaning. And lastly, when I've added duotight thermowell to the lid, it was tricky to get the nut on the fitting to get a good tight seal and avoid cross threading and stripping the plastic thread on the fitting. I went through a couple fittings, but I have pressure capable thermowells on all 3 of mine now.

 

[seatazzz]

I too use a modified Fermonster lid for pressure transfers, and couldn't be happier. I'm eventually going to get a second one (already have the undrilled lid, just need the posts & floating dip tube) so both of my fermonsters have one. I have a dedicated 5lb co2 tank for the transfers, and use my grain scale to monitor the keg weight while it's transferring to avoid overfilling. Dip tube has the little filter canister thing on it so minimal gunk gets in the keg.

For my last IPA I made a dry hop bag with my serger and some stockinette bandage (photo here) and some sous vide magnets; it went in held above the beer when I racked to the fermonster, and when it was time to dry hop just carefully moved the magnets down the side until the bag was submerged. Total dry hop was 4.5oz, magnets held it nice and tight, although I did use two each on the outside as a precaution. Kegged it the other day, got great aroma and flavor with no green gunk left in the yeast. Bag got a good soak and rinse, hung to dry, and ready for the next one.

 

[CyberFox]

I've been using my modified Fermonster for about two years now. I've never had a single issue with the lid. I bought an extra one thinking I'd eventually need it, but not yet! Still holds pressure just fine, no cracks.

I wouldn't worry about purging the dip tube. I leave mine in during fermentation, so the yeast takes care of that. I suppose it's theoretically possible there's a little oxygen at the top of the tube that wouldn't get flushed? But I've seen no oxygenation issues in my batches, and if you're that concerned, you can always blow CO2 through the dip tube when you pitch the yeast.

It's good to know that you haven't had problems with the Fermonster. If I wanted to use a spigot, that's the fermenter I'd get. I think it would make more sense for me to get the All Rounder if I'm going to be using the floating dip tube. I'm glad you brought up leaving the floating dip tube in during fermentation because that's something I thought about. I figured that would purge the line of oxygen, but I wasn't sure if krausen would plug the end of it.

The Fermonster conversion can probably get you enough pressure capability to do a closed transfer (couple psi), whereas a Fermzilla can handle 36 psi. Even if you're not interested in tinkering with fermenting under pressure to modify yeast flavors, or try natural carbonation, being able to hit it with 20 psi before cold crashing makes life very simple. And closed transfers at 5-10 psi surely go much faster.

I thought the goofy round bottom and stand would be a PITA until I started using it. It's really only awkward when it's empty. When it's got 5 gallons of beer in it, it's stable. And moving it when full, I've done both ways of hugging it like a baby, and using even just one of the handles to carry it and grabbing the stand with the other.

Good point about the All Rounder being built to hold pressure from the get-go. I agree that being able to pressurize during a cold crash and transfer quicker are pretty nice. It's good to know that the shape and stand aren't too awkward.

1) Going by memory, first time I tried this, it was in my stainless conical and I was getting the beer out via a spigot at the top of the cone. I couldn't see inside, but when I did my transfer, I was shocked that I didn't get any (?) hop debris in my transfer line.

2) I've had 3 things I've had to deal with. First, you definitely need the adjustable strap wrench to get the lid off when it comes time to clean. Second, you need to pry up under the ball locks to get the top off at time of cleaning. And lastly, when I've added duotight thermowell to the lid, it was tricky to get the nut on the fitting to get a good tight seal and avoid cross threading and stripping the plastic thread on the fitting. I went through a couple fittings, but I have pressure capable thermowells on all 3 of mine now.

Those are good tips for using the All Rounder. I'll keep those in mind if I get one, which I very well might!

I too use a modified Fermonster lid for pressure transfers, and couldn't be happier. I'm eventually going to get a second one (already have the undrilled lid, just need the posts & floating dip tube) so both of my fermonsters have one. I have a dedicated 5lb co2 tank for the transfers, and use my grain scale to monitor the keg weight while it's transferring to avoid overfilling. Dip tube has the little filter canister thing on it so minimal gunk gets in the keg.

For my last IPA I made a dry hop bag with my serger and some stockinette bandage (photo here) and some sous vide magnets; it went in held above the beer when I racked to the fermonster, and when it was time to dry hop just carefully moved the magnets down the side until the bag was submerged. Total dry hop was 4.5oz, magnets held it nice and tight, although I did use two each on the outside as a precaution. Kegged it the other day, got great aroma and flavor with no green gunk left in the yeast. Bag got a good soak and rinse, hung to dry, and ready for the next one.

Sounds like a pretty dialed in process. Using magnets for dry hopping is something I've only heard of recently. Pretty smart. It's pretty cool how new innovations in homebrewing are continually occurring. I've been reading lately about how dry hopping in the 30s for only 2 days results in full extraction, better flavor, and less hop creep than traditional temperatures. Kind of blows my mind!

 

[Yesfan]

I've heard of that technique and it's definitely a viable option.


I don't have a spare corny keg, but adding a floating dip tube to one is a good option. At the same time, I would rather get 5 gallons of beer per batch if I could.


I agree that the Fermonster is simpler and the All Rounder's bigger footprint, separate stand, and no option for a spigot do seem like downsides. Like you said, I could put strapping around it, but it seems like a bit of a pain since other fermenters just stand upright by default. Another downside I can think of is making sure the All Rounder is fully upright for accurate volume measurements. I imagine I'd need a level to determine that?


The only fermenter I own right now is a 6 gallon carboy, which I need to replace anyway since I'm going to be upping my batch size to 6 gallons for bigger dry hops (need extra headspace). As far as not being able to see the fermentation, I'm one of those weirdos that likes seeing the fermentation in action. I've heard of some problems with the Fermonster's lid. Have you had any problems with the Fermonster staying airtight or its lid cracking?

I'm torn between using a spigot in a fully closed transfer or using a floating dip tube. One thing I'm not sure about is how to purge the floating dip tube of oxygen. Lots to think about!

The only issues I had with the Fermonster's lid was when I cranked down on it a little too much on my first batch. When that happens, you need the lid wrench or a strap wrench to break it free. Same for my All Rounder. I've never had any leaking issues with my Fermonsters when I had them. Also, same with the All Rounder. As for floating dip tube vs spigot, floating dip tube all day long. Two reasons? The floating dip tube is contained within the fermenter and isn't exposed to the outside of it like a spigot. You also don't have to worry about turning the spigot to avoid transferring trub since the dip tube would pull form the top.


I feel like I'm going in circles and I apologize so, from what I've read so far in this thread, this would be my preference best to least (none of them are bad):

1) Add a floating dip tube to a keg
2) All Rounder with "pressure kit" (More Beer throws in the strap harness)
3) Fermonster with floating dip tube mod
4) Fermonster with spigot and added gas post

Unless you have to buy another keg, 1 is going to be your best and cheapest option. I think, between 2-4, 2 is the best bang for the buck even though it's the most expensive of the three and if space in a fermentation chamber isn't an issue.

EDIT: More Beer has a $124 All Rounder package that includes everything you need, including a Kegland spunding valve.

 

[Jim R]

I have an All Rounder and a stainless fermenter and I almost always use the All Rounder. I like to be able to see inside the fermenter especially when I am doing closed transfers. I can see exactly where my floating dip tube is drawing beer from and can even move it around by shaking the fermenter a little if needed. I definitely don't use the strap harness because all that does is attach the fermenter to the wire base which is not needed. The fermenter is easy to carry with just the handles when full. I also tilt the fermenter slowly as I am doing transfers to to get more beer into my keg so the dip tube stays above the sediment at the bottom of the fermenter which wouldn't be possible with the strap harness.

I purge my keg during early fermentation with fermentation CO2. I start my transfers with about 12 psi in both the fermenter and the keg to prevent foaming and then slowly lower the keg pressure to start the transfer. I do my transfers with my CO2 tank attached to the fermenter and just turn the CO2 on at 1-2 psi when the transfer slows down.

I dry hop in the All Rounder with the Sous Vide magnet technique with works well once I got the technique down so I never expose the beer to room air. I have done more than 1 dry hop interval in some beers with a second dry hop bag. I usually slowly lift up the dry hop bags with the magnets so the dry hops aren't even in the beer when I do my transfers. I never open the fermenter till it is ready to be cleaned. I have had NEIPA's last for months if I am out of town.

 

[CyberFox]

The only issues I had with the Fermonster's lid was when I cranked down on it a little too much on my first batch. When that happens, you need the lid wrench or a strap wrench to break it free. Same for my All Rounder. I've never had any leaking issues with my Fermonsters when I had them. Also, same with the All Rounder. As for floating dip tube vs spigot, floating dip tube all day long. Two reasons? The floating dip tube is contained within the fermenter and isn't exposed to the outside of it like a spigot. You also don't have to worry about turning the spigot to avoid transferring trub since the dip tube would pull form the top.


I feel like I'm going in circles and I apologize so, from what I've read so far in this thread, this would be my preference best to least (none of them are bad):

1) Add a floating dip tube to a keg
2) All Rounder with "pressure kit" (More Beer throws in the strap harness)
3) Fermonster with floating dip tube mod
4) Fermonster with spigot and added gas post

Unless you have to buy another keg, 1 is going to be your best and cheapest option. I think, between 2-4, 2 is the best bang for the buck even though it's the most expensive of the three and if space in a fermentation chamber isn't an issue.

EDIT: More Beer has a $124 All Rounder package that includes everything you need, including a Kegland spunding valve.

Thanks for the awesome summary! I know what you're saying about going in circles. My mind's been spinning over all the options, which is why I made this thread in the first place. Floating dip tube definitely seems the way to go. Man, now you're making me reconsider using a keg with a floating dip tube. I'm between that and the All Rounder at this point. Decisions, decisions...

I have a couple questions for anyone that can answer:
1) If the floating dip tube is left inside the fermenter during fermentation, can it get plugged with krausen?

2) If I dry hop with 6+ oz of hops and cold crash, will the cold crash compact the trub and dry hops down very much? If so, how much would it compact if I normally get 1/2 gallon of trub and 1/2 gallon of dry hop without cold crashing?

3) If I want to pressurize a keg or All Rounder during the cold crash, would I just leave the CO2 line connected and actively pressurizing during the entire cold crash?

4) What psi would be best during a cold crash, or does it even matter?

 

[palmtrees]

Thanks for the awesome summary! I know what you're saying about going in circles. My mind's been spinning over all the options, which is why I made this thread in the first place. Floating dip tube definitely seems the way to go. Man, now you're making me reconsider using a keg with a floating dip tube. I'm between that and the All Rounder at this point. Decisions, decisions...

I have a couple questions for anyone that can answer:
1) If the floating dip tube is left inside the fermenter during fermentation, can it get plugged with krausen?
2) If I dry hop with 6+ oz of hops and cold crash, will the cold crash compact the trub and dry hops down very much? If so, how much would it compact if I normally get 1/2 gallon of trub and1/2 gallon of dry hop without cold crashing?

I leave my floating dip tube in every time. When I first started using it, I had clogging issues, whether from krausen or hops. I then got a plastic filter attachment for the end of it, and I haven't had any clogs since. I've been kind of amazed by it. It can be sitting in the yeast cake almost completely covered, and it will still pull clear beer.

I find that a cold crash to 40ish for a few days creates a very firm trub/hop cake at the bottom. It hardly moves at all when I tilt the fermenter during transfer. There can still be some yeast rafts, depending on the strain, or some hop particles still clinging to the surface, but a filter on the dip tube makes easy work of that.

On the co2 during a cold crash, since I'm using a Fermonster, I don't pressurize it. I just leave it connected to a long blow off tube and flush it with co2 as needed. But honestly, I rarely need to do that. I bump the temp down about 5 degrees every 12 hours, and there seems to be enough off-gassing from the beer to avoid any real suck back. Occasionally, I will have some sanitizer pull back into the blowoff and then I flush with co2. But that's maybe every three batches. Based on that experience, I don't expect you would need to keep your co2 hooked up to your all rounder while you cold crash. Pressurize it to 10 or 15, and you'll be more than fine.

 

[CyberFox]

I leave my floating dip tube in every time. When I first started using it, I had clogging issues, whether from krausen or hops. I then got a plastic filter attachment for the end of it, and I haven't had any clogs since. I've been kind of amazed by it. It can be sitting in the yeast cake almost completely covered, and it will still pull clear beer.

I find that a cold crash to 40ish for a few days creates a very firm trub/hop cake at the bottom. It hardly moves at all when I tilt the fermenter during transfer. There can still be some yeast rafts, depending on the strain, or some hop particles still clinging to the surface, but a filter on the dip tube makes easy work of that.

On the co2 during a cold crash, since I'm using a Fermonster, I don't pressurize it. I just leave it connected to a long blow off tube and flush it with co2 as needed. But honestly, I rarely need to do that. I bump the temp down about 5 degrees every 12 hours, and there seems to be enough off-gassing from the beer to avoid any real suck back. Occasionally, I will have some sanitizer pull back into the blowoff and then I flush with co2. But that's maybe every three batches. Based on that experience, I don't expect you would need to keep your co2 hooked up to your all rounder while you cold crash. Pressurize it to 10 or 15, and you'll be more than fine.

Are you talking about this plastic filter? I've read about people having issues with the regular floating dip tube and need to weigh them down. Does the plastic filter have that same problem or is it good to go?

 

[Deric]

I've been using a 7 gallon Fermonster about once a month since April 2021. I've had no issues with the lid not sealing or cracking. I do have a spare lid made up just in case but have not had to use it.

I use a floating dip tube with this filter and have had no issues with clogging.

This beer (pictured) had 10 ounces of dry hops. Cold crashed at 35f for 3 days. I tilt the Fermonster towards the end of transfer to keep the filter submerged. The hop/trub/yeast did not move at all when tilting. No beer (or very little) left behind.

When cold crashing I pressurize with CO2 using a propane regulator.

The All Rounder is cool but I prefer something that will stand up on it's own without a separate stand. With the Fermonster or the All Rounder definitely get the wrench.

I also have a pair of 6 gallon Torpedo kegs with floating dip tubes that work great they're just a lot more work to clean.

 

[palmtrees]

Are you talking about this plastic filter? I've read about people having issues with the regular floating dip tube and need to weigh them down. Does the plastic filter have that same problem or is it good to go?

Yep, that's the one! I don't weigh it down at all.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

I've done some research to figure out the best way to do a fully closed transfer from the fermenter to the keg for beer with a loose, 6+ oz dry hop. The best strategy I've found is to use gravity to transfer through the fermenter's spigot into the OUT post on the keg, then connect a line from the keg's IN post to the fermenter's airlock. An inline beer filter would also be used to catch any hops that try to get into the keg. Does anyone have experience doing this or have a better idea?

Some good discussion so far...there are a number of approaches.

My approach is like described in the first post. I ferment in Fermonster fermenters with spigots, transfer out the spigot with a inline filter (similar to the Bouncer branded ones). My filter is fairly coarse (this one: VacMotion product: PLS-M38B-NCE-020 - 3/8 Barb MINI strainer. Nylon top, Clear bowl, EPDM gasket, 20 mesh SS element)

Cold crashing helps a lot to drop out hops and to create a compact layer of trub, hops and yeast. It would probably help me if I transferred less trub into the fermenter. I find that I often have a huge layer of trub with my NEIPA beers. I suspect this is from the large amount of wheat and oats in the bill.

I will sometimes get clogging with heavily hopped beers. The clog generally occurs at the ball lock disconnect. With my last batch of NEIPA, I found that if I removed and then reconnected the disconnect the flow would get going again. I could remove the innards of the disconnect and post to prevent that, then just swap out the keg post after the transfer. A finer filter might help as well...or maybe then the filter would clog?

My video:

 

[CyberFox]

I've been using a 7 gallon Fermonster about once a month since April 2021. I've had no issues with the lid not sealing or cracking. I do have a spare lid made up just in case but have not had to use it.

I use a floating dip tube with this filter and have had no issues with clogging.

This beer (pictured) had 10 ounces of dry hops. Cold crashed at 35f for 3 days. I tilt the Fermonster towards the end of transfer to keep the filter submerged. The hop/trub/yeast did not move at all when tilting. No beer (or very little) left behind.

When cold crashing I pressurize with CO2 using a propane regulator.

The All Rounder is cool but I prefer something that will stand up on it's own without a separate stand. With the Fermonster or the All Rounder definitely get the wrench.

I also have a pair of 6 gallon Torpedo kegs with floating dip tubes that work great they're just a lot more work to clean.

This further confirms my decision to use a floating dip tube with the mesh filter attached to the end. Everyone says that filter works and doesn't have the same buoyancy problem as others. A 10 oz dry hop is no joke. It's interesting that you bring up 6 gallon Torpedo kegs because I just found out yesterday that they even exist. I think I've pretty much decided on using one of those over an All Rounder because of their toughness, smaller footprint, the option to use it as an extra keg down the line, and the fact that they're just built for pressure. As far as being more work to clean, I imagine filling them to the top with PBW solution and running it through the posts should do the trick.

Some good discussion so far...there are a number of approaches.

My approach is like described in the first post. I ferment in Fermonster fermenters with spigots, transfer out the spigot with a inline filter (similar to the Bouncer branded ones). My filter is fairly coarse (this one: VacMotion product: PLS-M38B-NCE-020 - 3/8 Barb MINI strainer. Nylon top, Clear bowl, EPDM gasket, 20 mesh SS element)

Cold crashing helps a lot to drop out hops and to create a compact layer of trub, hops and yeast. It would probably help me if I transferred less trub into the fermenter. I find that I often have a huge layer of trub with my NEIPA beers. I suspect this is from the large amount of wheat and oats in the bill.

I will sometimes get clogging with heavily hopped beers. The clog generally occurs at the ball lock disconnect. With my last batch of NEIPA, I found that if I removed and then reconnected the disconnect the flow would get going again. I could remove the innards of the disconnect and post to prevent that, then just swap out the keg post after the transfer. A finer filter might help as well...or maybe then the filter would clog?

My video:

That's an awesome video! Well done! Yeah, that's the worry I had with using filters during a transfer on the cold side: the filter clogging, which potentially increases the risk of oxidation. I found kind of an interesting video on testing filter mesh sizes. It sounds like the 20 Mesh (915 micron) is the way to go for hitting a balance between filtering crap out and clogging.


I came up with a strategy that I'm planning to use:
1) Equip a 6 gallon Torpedo keg with a floating dip tube with a mesh filter on the end. I'll call it a kegmenter (keg/fermenter).

2) Use an inline filter to transfer from the boil kettle to the kegmenter so I don't get a bunch of hops and crap in the kegmenter.

3) Attach kegmenter -> empty keg -> jar of sanitizer so the CO2 from fermentation purges the receiving keg.

4) Cold crash for 2 days to drop the yeast out of suspension

5) Dry hop at 38 degrees for 3 days (I heard it works!). After throwing the hops in, I'll burp the kegmenter with CO2 to release oxygen.

6) Do a closed transfer from kegmenter to receiving keg using CO2.

 

[Yesfan]

@CyberFox

Lots of good suggestions. If you look at the More Beer dip tube filter some of the members have linked, there's three different attachment points on the filter that will change the angle that works best in keeping the end of the tube submerged so it pull beer and not co2.

I have no way to cold crash, so I just wait an extra week or two and hope for the best. For hoppy beers, I've made it a habit to do most of my filtering at the end of the boil after a lot of flame out additions and forgo dry hopping altogether. My kegerator is your typical "dorm style" fridge that can hold 4 ball locks, so no room for my All Rounder (another advantage of fermenting in a 5 gallon keg).

If you plan on getting a torpedo keg, I'd go for the mega mouth versions. The lids are larger, so it should be able to be cleaned a lot easier than a standard corny keg. I plan on buying the 6 gallon version as my next upgrade and mod the lid (add a tri-clamp fitting) like I did with my 15 gallon ball lock.

 

[CyberFox]

@CyberFox

Lots of good suggestions. If you look at the More Beer dip tube filter some of the members have linked, there's three different attachment points on the filter that will change the angle that works best in keeping the end of the tube submerged so it pull beer and not co2.

I have no way to cold crash, so I just wait an extra week or two and hope for the best. For hoppy beers, I've made it a habit to do most of my filtering at the end of the boil after a lot of flame out additions and forgo dry hopping altogether. My kegerator is your typical "dorm style" fridge that can hold 4 ball locks, so no room for my All Rounder (another advantage of fermenting in a 5 gallon keg).

If you plan on getting a torpedo keg, I'd go for the mega mouth versions. The lids are larger, so it should be able to be cleaned a lot easier than a standard corny keg. I plan on buying the 6 gallon version as my next upgrade and mod the lid (add a tri-clamp fitting) like I did with my 15 gallon ball lock.

I agree. Everyone's got some seriously good input. Thanks everybody!

For the mesh filter, I heard that attaching the floating ball to the attachment closest to the barb allows it to stay below the surface and then sit horizontally when it hits the trub/hops at the bottom. Sounds good to me.

I know what you mean about omitting the dry hop. I did that for my last beer because I was tired of battling the hops with a racking cane and I was also curious about what a 6 oz hop stand by itself would do. Turns out that it's pretty damn good, but I know I need a dry hop to get my hop fix.

Good call on the mega mouth keg. That's definitely the way to go!

 

[CyberFox]

Well, I just found out about the FLOTit 2.0 and supposedly it works even better than the plastic mesh filter. I can't find any floating dip tube kits for 6 gallon kegs, so I guess I'll piece together my own kit.

To anyone who can answer:
1) Would I be able to use a gas IN dip tube on the liquid OUT side to attach the tubing for the floating dip tube? If so, are Torpedo kegs' dip tubes the same size as other kegs?

2) Would Evabarrier tubing work properly with a floating dip tube (flexibility, etc.)?

 

[micraftbeer]

I have a floating dip tube on a Torpedo keg (normal mount, not the new big mouth size). They don't do anything custom for the fittings. The only thing different between a 5-gallon floating dip tube and 6-gallon will be the length of silicone hose. The hose length in the dip tube kits are generally too long anyway, so you'd be fine. If not, silicone tubing is cheap to buy off Amazon. Just make sure you get the thin-walled stuff (1 mm wall thickness) to keep it flexible. I've had issues with stiffer tubing actually causing the ball float to hang up (although this was before I started using the filters that helped weigh it down).

Measure your hose length in an empty keg so that your tubing makes an 'L' shape with the float resting on the bottom, not a 'J'. I found if the hose length is too too long, at the very end it can be propped up out of the beer and cheat you a couple precious ounces!

No Eva Barrier won't work, it's way too stiff.

I used the Flotit 2.0 because the offset float was superior to keeping the inlet under the beer level. But that was before KegLand came out with their filter attachment to the ball. It's probably just the weight, but I now have a mix of FlotIt 2.0s and ball with the KegLand filter on it, and they both work equally well.

And the filter mesh is kind of irrelevant. I've never had one clogged up and not flowing beer. Which if you think about it, would be a total disaster. Unlike an external filter that you could doink around with and clean and get things going again, a clogged filter on your dip tube means nothing is getting out of your fermentor unless you open it up, fish it out, clean it, put it back in, etc. That would be a total PITA.

 

[Deric]

I use the plastic filter in my Fermonster and have FLOTit2.0 filters in the Torpedo kegs. When I ordered the FLOTit I asked the seller for longer tubing to accommodate the 6 gallon kegs and he did so at no upcharge. FWIW - I really like the tubing that comes with the FLOTit. It's more flexible than any of the others I've found. The tubing that that Torpedo sells is really thick/stiff. I actually bought extra tubing from the FLOTit seller to have on hand.

The FLOTit double filter is kind of finnicky but works well. I don't bother with the extra/outside filter unless I'm dry hopping.

 

[CyberFox]

I have a floating dip tube on a Torpedo keg (normal mount, not the new big mouth size). They don't do anything custom for the fittings. The only thing different between a 5-gallon floating dip tube and 6-gallon will be the length of silicone hose. The hose length in the dip tube kits are generally too long anyway, so you'd be fine. If not, silicone tubing is cheap to buy off Amazon. Just make sure you get the thin-walled stuff (1 mm wall thickness) to keep it flexible. I've had issues with stiffer tubing actually causing the ball float to hang up (although this was before I started using the filters that helped weigh it down).

Measure your hose length in an empty keg so that your tubing makes an 'L' shape with the float resting on the bottom, not a 'J'. I found if the hose length is too too long, at the very end it can be propped up out of the beer and cheat you a couple precious ounces!

No Eva Barrier won't work, it's way too stiff.

I used the Flotit 2.0 because the offset float was superior to keeping the inlet under the beer level. But that was before KegLand came out with their filter attachment to the ball. It's probably just the weight, but I now have a mix of FlotIt 2.0s and ball with the KegLand filter on it, and they both work equally well.

And the filter mesh is kind of irrelevant. I've never had one clogged up and not flowing beer. Which if you think about it, would be a total disaster. Unlike an external filter that you could doink around with and clean and get things going again, a clogged filter on your dip tube means nothing is getting out of your fermentor unless you open it up, fish it out, clean it, put it back in, etc. That would be a total PITA.

I use the plastic filter in my Fermonster and have FLOTit2.0 filters in the Torpedo kegs. When I ordered the FLOTit I asked the seller for longer tubing to accommodate the 6 gallon kegs and he did so at no upcharge. FWIW - I really like the tubing that comes with the FLOTit. It's more flexible than any of the others I've found. The tubing that that Torpedo sells is really thick/stiff. I actually bought extra tubing from the FLOTit seller to have on hand.

The FLOTit double filter is kind of finnicky but works well. I don't bother with the extra/outside filter unless I'm dry hopping.

That's good info from both of you. It's good to know that Torpedo keg parts are compatible with others. I figured EvaBarrier tubing was too inflexible, but I was just curious because I had some lying around. I'll make sure to get the thinner tubing one way or another. So it sounds like both the FLOTit 2.0 and Kegland's plastic filter are good. I'm starting to get analysis paralysis here. I'll probably go with the FLOTit 2.0 and pick up the Picnic Tap 2.1 from the same seller. He's making some pretty cool stuff.

By the way, Happy New Year to everyone!