Bent Shoe Brewing: From Broken Backs To Broken Wallets

[BentBrewer]

The water in Lincoln, while clean, can come from seven different locations. Soooo, we're putting in an RO system. That means that whatever's in the liquor tank, is basically pure. Since we'll be doing everything from stouts, to strongs, to IPA's, I'm planning on mineral additions as the grain goes into the mash tun. If for some reason that method isn't panning out, I'll backtrack and try something else.

 

[Kampenken]

The water in Lincoln, while clean, can come from seven different locations. Soooo, we're putting in an RO system. That means that whatever's in the liquor tank, is basically pure. Since we'll be doing everything from stouts, to strongs, to IPA's, I'm planning on mineral additions as the grain goes into the mash tun. If for some reason that method isn't panning out, I'll backtrack and try something else.

If your RO system is as fast as your HEBS, great! I know residential ones can be slow. If slow and you need to run and collect maybe this is the time to adjust water. All I've read is water additions are to cold water. I'm no expert but maybe you should inquire on any issues. If is a strong concern I'd bet you could simply add to a separate cold gallon or two, dissolve and add, but I've no clue. I guess other brewers work it out fine!! Two more Q's. Will you measure mash pH and how fast will you mash? I guess you won't (?) cut boil short, so 2hrs total is quick! I have zero knowledge of brewing on this scale, so quite interested! Thanks for your answers. Cheers

 

[killian]

looks nice! Good luck!

 

[BentBrewer]

If your RO system is as fast as your HEBS, great! I know residential ones can be slow. If slow and you need to run and collect maybe this is the time to adjust water. All I've read is water additions are to cold water. I'm no expert but maybe you should inquire on any issues. If is a strong concern I'd bet you could simply add to a separate cold gallon or two, dissolve and add, but I've no clue. I guess other brewers work it out fine!! Two more Q's. Will you measure mash pH and how fast will you mash? I guess you won't (?) cut boil short, so 2hrs total is quick! I have zero knowledge of brewing on this scale, so quite interested! Thanks for your answers. Cheers

You don't need a fast RO system, as long as you have a place to store the water. We're looking at a 60~80hl per 24 hour system, with 120hl storage. If anything breaks, we have a days worth of water on hand.

No idea why you'd want to add the minerals to cold water, hot works a lot faster, especially for gypsum.

Mash Ph is going to be with a Milwaukee 102 meter. Same one I've been using on the test system. I find that once one determines the proper acid and mineral additions, you usually hit the same Ph every time, so it becomes less of a worry. When you're doing something different every time, like most home brewers then you need to pay a lot of attention.

Not sure what you mean by 'how fast will I mash'. It takes a defined amount of time for the amylase to do it's conversion process so there's really no rushing the mash. Mash-in, is reasonably quick due to a large mill, and an auger.

 

[Kampenken]

The difference in the HEBS, over traditional systems, (traditional being a pretty broad coverage here) is that the system heats faster, mashes faster, and boils faster than what most people are using. 2 hours from grain to wort...

No idea why you'd want to add the minerals to cold water, hot works a lot faster, especially for gypsum. ..

Not sure what you mean by 'how fast will I mash'. It takes a defined amount of time for the amylase to do it's conversion process so there's really no rushing the mash. Mash-in, is reasonably quick due to a large mill, and an auger.

The post of yours above noted mash faster, that's where I was confused. Along with 2hrs grain to wort. I assume most brews will be one hour boils, so was curious how this mash faster was working!

I read to add minerals to cold water, per Bru'n water calculator. Reread again now and it notes for acid and gypsum to be cold water additions. Acids due to heated water reduces RA and you can overshoot pH (maybe though it can be calculated at a hot water rate?). Gypsum is more soluble in cool water, again maybe can be adjusted.

Any more progress picture updates? Looking forward to it!

 

[nDub]

Bump

How's it going?