Beer carb dropping

[jstringer1983]

Hi everyone,
So i have a weird situation, my ale that i kegged exactly 2 weeks ago has been sitting in the fridge with 14 psi to it. This is how i always carb my beers-the set it and forget it method, and usually after a week they carb to that level and suit my taste perfectly until the end. Last night i poured a pint and it was great. So i had a second, and it was good, but not as crisp as the first. Half way through i got curious, so i dumped it and poured another full pint. It had definitely lost some carb, and didnt have near the crispness of the first. How could this happen? Maybe i dont understand the physics of how a beer carbs, but i never remember having this problem- carb loss as you drain the keg?

 

[jmcquesten]

Hi everyone,
So i have a weird situation, my ale that i kegged exactly 2 weeks ago has been sitting in the fridge with 14 psi to it. This is how i always carb my beers-the set it and forget it method, and usually after a week they carb to that level and suit my taste perfectly until the end. Last night i poured a pint and it was great. So i had a second, and it was good, but not as crisp as the first. Half way through i got curious, so i dumped it and poured another full pint. It had definitely lost some carb, and didnt have near the crispness of the first. How could this happen? Maybe i dont understand the physics of how a beer carbs, but i never remember having this problem- carb loss as you drain the keg?

Almost sounds like the regulator or valve is turned off and you're serving from pressure in keg.

 

[TungstenBeer]

Almost sounds like the regulator or valve is turned off and you're serving from pressure in keg.

I agree. Or your CO2 tank ran out which would have exactly the same effect.

 

[jstringer1983]

Well i would lean towards the tank, my gauge has a "red zone" on it for the tank psi, that gives you a bit of a cushion to order a full tank. This being my first tank ever (its pushed a lot of batches), i dont know how much gas is actually in the tank when it nears that zone, so it may well be close to empty. When i get a full tank, ill weigh it and also weigh the empty so i can better keep track. Ill check those suggestions after work today. Thanks all

 

[stan1007]

Well i would lean towards the tank, my gauge has a "red zone" on it for the tank psi, that gives you a bit of a cushion to order a full tank. This being my first tank ever (its pushed a lot of batches), i dont know how much gas is actually in the tank when it nears that zone, so it may well be close to empty. When i get a full tank, ill weigh it and also weigh the empty so i can better keep track. Ill check those suggestions after work today. Thanks all

The gauge on the CO2 tank is essentially useless until the tank is almost empty. CO2 under pressure is in liquid form which is why it is sold by the pound. The gauge doesn't react much until the liquid CO2 is almost completely evaporated.

 

[chickypad]

Your tank should have a tare weight stamped on it, you can weight it now and subtract that to see how much you have left.

 

[Jtk78]

The weight is typically not on the tank or cylinder itself, but on the valve body. This way if the valve body ever goes bad (and they do sometimes), a new one can be installed and will have the correct weights stamped in it at the time of installation.

 

[chickypad]

The weight is typically not on the tank or cylinder itself, but on the valve body. This way if the valve body ever goes bad (and they do sometimes), a new one can be installed and will have the correct weights stamped in it at the time of installation.

I've never actually seen that. I have 3 tanks that I've been swapping out for yrs and the tare weight is always stamped on the top of the tank where the hydro stamp goes.

 

[Jtk78]

I've never actually seen that. I have 3 tanks that I've been swapping out for yrs and the tare weight is always stamped on the top of the tank where the hydro stamp goes.

The company I work for is a DOT certified CO2 hydro-test / refill facility and that's where we're required to display it the full and empty weights.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

Hi everyone,
So i have a weird situation, my ale that i kegged exactly 2 weeks ago has been sitting in the fridge with 14 psi to it. This is how i always carb my beers-the set it and forget it method, and usually after a week they carb to that level and suit my taste perfectly until the end. Last night i poured a pint and it was great. So i had a second, and it was good, but not as crisp as the first. Half way through i got curious, so i dumped it and poured another full pint. It had definitely lost some carb, and didnt have near the crispness of the first. How could this happen? Maybe i dont understand the physics of how a beer carbs, but i never remember having this problem- carb loss as you drain the keg?

I can't be a part of this thread.

 

[chickypad]

The company I work for is a DOT certified CO2 hydro-test / refill facility and that's where we're required to display it the full and empty weights.

Interesting. Mine don't appear to have any weights marked on the valve. Good to know if I ever get a tank and can't find the tare weight.

Sorry OP, kind of digressing...

 

[jstringer1983]

Then dont. Its in the beginners forum. So be a pro somewhere else.

 

[jstringer1983]

Not directed at you chickypad, sorry, not sure how to respond directly to posts on this site

 

[stan1007]

The company I work for is a DOT certified CO2 hydro-test / refill facility and that's where we're required to display it the full and empty weights.

Show me that in writing! DOT regulations require markings on tanks. There is no reference to markings on valve bodies.